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IncredibleIgloo posted:TSMC can throw the calculation off, especially if you have a printer that has TSMC attributes that are not visible or adjustable by the slicer. What's a TSMC? I dunno, what's a TSMC you?
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Jan 5, 2023 17:55
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Two stage motion control. Typical implementation is that the printer goes at a slow speed for a few mm on lift, then at high speed for the last half of the movement, and the revers on retract. The slicer shows this as two separate boxes in which you can enter the speeds. Some, but not many, printers have TSMC in which you can only control the rate of the movement close to the plate.
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Jan 5, 2023 18:09
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making myself some 30k world eaters; berserker marines that have combat drug torture devices implanted in their heads that give them depression if they dont rip and tear and now their dad is telling them to rip and tear their bros so i wanted to make some heads expressing a gamut of emotions not just mouth closed and mouth open (though they make an appearance)   i like most of them but particularly crying guy and zonked out fugue guy   havent finished painting them yet but theyre coming out pretty good so far i think! god bless streaking grime 
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Jan 6, 2023 17:54
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I finally backed bigmrtong's patreon to get access to some of their more directly inspired designs. And they've all got feet with the slotta base bit, so don't fit any base I've ever printed off, what a ginormous pain in the dick.  
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Jan 7, 2023 06:06
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Cassa posted:I finally backed bigmrtong's patreon to get access to some of their more directly inspired designs. You can just "split" the mini off its slotta base tab in 3D builder, I did that with some not-Cybermen he made (that I never did get around to printing).
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Jan 7, 2023 06:14
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Does anyone else use e6000 adhesive for minis? Does it work well? It seems really cost effective for the amount of printing I do. I am mostly using it to attach minis to bases.
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Jan 7, 2023 07:21
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Cassa posted:I finally backed bigmrtong's patreon to get access to some of their more directly inspired designs. Adjust the z height of the model in your slicer by -n where n is the height of the slottabase tab (It would literally take the designer 5 seconds to make a version without that. What a maroon.)
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Jan 7, 2023 15:31
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Lychee just introduced a planar cut tool that can slice it off.
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Jan 7, 2023 20:33
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spectralent posted:I've been looking at 3D printing and I may well have a space I could set up. I've been eyeing the Mars 2 so far. I'm wondering what kind of ventilation setups people are mostly using? Also, people have mentioned resin being fragile: how fragile are we talking? Like, resin model fragile or more delicate than that? I have also wondered about ventilation issues. Maybe my garage window in the summer kinda hobby vs dead of winter?
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Jan 7, 2023 22:09
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I just run an air purifier and crack a nearby window with my mars 2 pro and it seems fine, I don't think I'm gonna get cancer or anything
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Jan 7, 2023 22:20
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What do you guys think is the best target market for MDF terrain things? I'm figuring either modern stuff or 40k, since those actually need terrain. D&D and pathfinder and other medieval a stuff doesn't seem as much of a market as wargaming things.
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Jan 7, 2023 23:34
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You could probably make a killing by producing dungeon tile set bundles of whatever the current D&D module is.
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Jan 7, 2023 23:55
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queeb posted:What do you guys think is the best target market for MDF terrain things? I'm figuring either modern stuff or 40k, since those actually need terrain. D&D and pathfinder and other medieval a stuff doesn't seem as much of a market as wargaming things. Tokens and templates will always be huge, but for those acrylic is also something you might want to investigate
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Jan 8, 2023 00:04
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Does anyone else use e6000 adhesive for minis? Does it work well? It seems really cost effective for the amount of printing I do. I am mostly using it to attach minis to bases. I use e6000 for basically everything and I love it. It sticks basically anything to basically anything if you're okay with it not drying super hard like a super glue will.
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Jan 8, 2023 00:15
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queeb posted:What do you guys think is the best target market for MDF terrain things? I'm figuring either modern stuff or 40k, since those actually need terrain. D&D and pathfinder and other medieval a stuff doesn't seem as much of a market as wargaming things. I can only speak to wargaming but the big markets there are 40k, historicals, and modern stuff (in that order) with fantasy bringing up the rear. 4ground set the bar by doing a lot of different eras and settings in various scales.
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Jan 8, 2023 00:27
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queeb posted:What do you guys think is the best target market for MDF terrain things? I'm figuring either modern stuff or 40k, since those actually need terrain. D&D and pathfinder and other medieval a stuff doesn't seem as much of a market as wargaming things. Western stuff actually goes really good with MDF or plywood terrain, but that is kind of a limited setting. It might be worth investigating making layered boxes in certain wargame related shapes for people to store their token or dice or whatever in, or other various playing aids. The best market for the mdf terrain would probably be apartment dwellers if you design it in such a way that the terrain packs flat, that way they can have a battlefield they can pop up when playing but it doesn't take up their really limited space when not playing.
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Jan 8, 2023 00:45
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hell yeah thanks for the tips everyone. Now to get to planning stuff out. I'll probably do it all in fusion360, my most comfortable progam and its easier to build stuff in 3d and see exactly whats needed. I guess illustrator and the like would be good for simple things but CAD is hard to beat for making tabbed buildings and stuff. ill probably spam this thread for ideas and also goondeal you all stuff if you want any of it for just shipping and materials cost since you're all amazing.
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Jan 9, 2023 04:22
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queeb posted:hell yeah thanks for the tips everyone. Now to get to planning stuff out. I'll probably do it all in fusion360, my most comfortable progam and its easier to build stuff in 3d and see exactly whats needed. I guess illustrator and the like would be good for simple things but CAD is hard to beat for making tabbed buildings and stuff. ill probably spam this thread for ideas and also goondeal you all stuff if you want any of it for just shipping and materials cost since you're all amazing. I bet you have this link already, but this box designer is super simple and great. Sometimes I use it as the base of a project and then modify it a bit. https://boxdesigner.connectionlab.org/
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Jan 9, 2023 06:10
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Here is the first one that came out in a way I am very pleased with. This is the little army platter I made with my glowforge. I am still working on the one for the troops section, but this platter holds two 100mm Artillery things and 3 60mm weapons teams, along with a box that can hold tokens or whatnot.  
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Jan 9, 2023 06:44
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:I just run an air purifier and crack a nearby window with my mars 2 pro and it seems fine, I don't think I'm gonna get cancer or anything Mine sits next to my airbrush's fume hood, so I've got active ventilation to the outside, and everything that comes out of the printer goes right in the fume hood for processing and then right into the wash and cure unit. I also stay out of that room while the printer is running.
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Jan 9, 2023 06:51
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moths posted:You could probably make a killing by producing dungeon tile set bundles of whatever the current D&D module is. A line of generic tile sets with add-ons for the custom areas need to run a module would be a good idea.
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Jan 9, 2023 07:04
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Well, I just potentially landed a deal with a big local game shop to produce minis and FDM prints, one that has a massive online presence as well. Talking like 100k+ online sales and things. I'm majorly excited. I'm gonna need more room.
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Jan 9, 2023 07:08
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queeb posted:Well, I just potentially landed a deal with a big local game shop to produce minis and FDM prints, one that has a massive online presence as well. Talking like 100k+ online sales and things. I'm majorly excited. I'm gonna need more room. Keep an eye on the terms of your merchant licensing. Might be a no go depending on the terms/how your selling online
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Jan 9, 2023 15:22
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Luckily for the most part the store already has a ton of merchant licenses to stuff like artisan guild, highland miniatures, vae victus, I just happened to be in there at the right time chatting with the employees and the owner, they used to sell a bunch of it and then their 3d print guy had to bail for personal reasons a few months ago and none of them felt like dealing with the 3d print thing. I was like poo poo i have like 3 resin printers, 4 fdm and i can scale up if needed since i have the room, next think you know my side hustle is becoming a bit more legit of a thing haha.
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Jan 9, 2023 16:47
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queeb posted:Here's a fun one. Someone wanted to buy a building I had, but printed down to 15mm scale, from its original 32mm. Huge shrink. It had some very intricate window things that when shrunk just would not print as it became too fine. THe guy was really nice and still wanted it even with the fucky windows, but I dont want to send something like that, so I said gimme a day or two and some CAD time and ill see what I can do. Old reply, but this is a super clever solution. Nice work!
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Jan 10, 2023 00:13
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I'm looking at splitting STL files, but not planar slice for printing -- I want to split a single model into technically-separate pieces for purposes of messing with printing in multiple colors. Last time I did that I think muddled through it using meshmixer to draw the lines where I wanted the model separated and go from there. I don't really remember the workflow, though. Anyone have any suggestions on the best tool / technique (or better yet, a link to a tutorial) for doing that? It's the kind of thing that searching for it is pretty useless.
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Jan 10, 2023 00:25
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I use Blender, this is a 10 minute tutorial on how to do it and it works with the latest version of the program. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moPDPB4MY2U
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Jan 10, 2023 02:46
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The Eyes Have It posted:Old reply, but this is a super clever solution. Nice work! thanks! The dude that bought it loved it so it worked out well.
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Jan 10, 2023 02:54
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BlackIronHeart posted:I use Blender, this is a 10 minute tutorial on how to do it and it works with the latest version of the program. Seconding Blender for this. Can't watch the video from work but it's probably similar to the one I learned off of. Blender makes custom cutting of models not too painful, and it's what I use when I want to cut/key models to print custom portions.
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Jan 10, 2023 14:21
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Got a set of Vallejo paints for Xmas and am having fun trying to print and paint mini things. Did these 28mm halo dudes and a warthog over the holiday break.  Also a teeny tiny B2EMO:  And something a little different, a bunch of 1/64th scale cars.  
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Jan 10, 2023 15:30
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BlackIronHeart posted:I use Blender, this is a 10 minute tutorial on how to do it and it works with the latest version of the program. I appreciate it! That got me working enough to figure out a clunky but functional workflow. Thanks!
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Jan 10, 2023 19:36
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The Eyes Have It posted:I appreciate it! That got me working enough to figure out a clunky but functional workflow. Thanks! So I bought some presupported files, and apparently this case is just a Chitubox file. I don't have Chitubox, and while I am willing to download it, but I am having a hard time believing this is their actual website: https://www.chitubox.com/en/index Is this actually them? 
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Jan 10, 2023 22:26
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I painted these guys that I printed for Horus Heresy. I'm still surprised over how good prints you can get, even on a small 2k printer.
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Jan 10, 2023 23:04
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Lumpy posted:So I bought some presupported files, and apparently this case is just a Chitubox file. I don't have Chitubox, and while I am willing to download it, but I am having a hard time believing this is their actual website: https://www.chitubox.com/en/index Is this actually them? Yup. 'If it ain't sketchy, it ain't Chitubox!'
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Jan 10, 2023 23:36
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Man I know auto supports are bad, but I ran a model through prusas auto orient and auto Sport and it honestly came out way better than lychees attempts. So needs sanity checks but man as a starting point I'm very impressed
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Jan 10, 2023 23:44
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Lumpy posted:So I bought some presupported files, and apparently this case is just a Chitubox file. I don't have Chitubox, and while I am willing to download it, but I am having a hard time believing this is their actual website: https://www.chitubox.com/en/index Is this actually them? Yeah, they're... They try.
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Jan 11, 2023 00:40
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Robert Facepalmer posted:Yup. 'If it ain't sketchy, it ain't Chitubox!' BlackIronHeart posted:Yeah, they're... They try. I am seriously contemplating buying a cheap throwaway laptop or doing a virtual machine to install this on. There's no way that isn't absolutely crammed full of malware... at least, that's what that site tell me. Then again: Thanks for the confirmation though.
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Jan 11, 2023 03:45
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How do you resin printer users deal with ventilation/fumes? I love the quality of minis I can make but the thought of constantly dealing with those fumes (and the worry about how toxic it might be) really turns me off from using it. I've got a separate room where I leave it and an open window, but the smell still leaks through. I try to limit my printing these days to when I've got a whole bunch to do in one go but even then hassle is in dealing with all that is slowly overpowering my desire to actually print with it. I also have a Prusa filament printer which I enjoy using much more. The smell is almost non-existant and there's not really a huge cleanup task around it. But while I enjoy using it a lot more, the quality of minis coming out of that is typically way worse. It works much better if I want to make large terrain pieces or blockier looking models in general. Does people like to print minis with filament printers? If so do you have any tips to getting some better looking models? I can usually get something decent looking but depending on the model the supports can be extremely difficult to remove. I use the Prusaslicer since it's kind of already setup to work with the printer but I used to use Cura, and I loved the tree supports. Is there something similar I could get working with the Prusaslicer?
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Jan 11, 2023 19:31
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DarkAvenger211 posted:How do you resin printer users deal with ventilation/fumes? I love the quality of minis I can make but the thought of constantly dealing with those fumes (and the worry about how toxic it might be) really turns me off from using it. I've got a separate room where I leave it and an open window, but the smell still leaks through. I try to limit my printing these days to when I've got a whole bunch to do in one go but even then hassle is in dealing with all that is slowly overpowering my desire to actually print with it. I slapped together a box from construction leftovers of 2x4s, foil-backed foam, some gorilla glue and a piece of plexiglass I bought. Printer goes inside there, a hole I cut in the top for dryer vent hose and an in-line fan to a window adapter gives me what kinda sorta amounts to a fume hood. It's good enough to make a negative pressure chamber and force practically all of the smell outside when in operation. I never notice anything when it's operating. Opening and closing for starting/finishing a print it's not 100% because I have to open the box but it works pretty great overall. I also use it as my air brushing booth where it does the same thing. Printing minis with filament is easier with larger scale, harder with smaller. Just really no getting around the differences in layer heights between the two processes. Getting closer with some of the latest stuff but I think we're finding the end of that road pretty quick. I use Lychee slicer. It has a parenting/bracing function that merges nearby supports in to one "root" and then adds bracing between what's left.
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Jan 11, 2023 20:08
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I am a n00b, so take my advise with a huge grain of 3d printed salt. My printer is in a box made of MDF, and I don't vent it at all, but I try not to be in the room with it when it is printing. The video from Goobertown (who is a PhD chemist) about resin indicates the fumes are a "Type 2" hazard, which is basically an irritant. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht4tbCiFxeM&t=1470s This is from Elgoo's MSDS: quote:Breathing Equipment: None should be needed from normal use. If this material is handled at elevated temperature or under mist forming conditions, approved respiratory protection equipment should be used. Selection and use of respiratory equipment must be in accordance with applicable regulations and good industrial hygiene practice. So from what I gather, don't huff the stuff on purpose, and if it bothers you, vent, but being in a room with a printer that is in a box is something I personally am okay with. But better to be too cautious than not enough I guess. Lumpy fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jan 11, 2023 |
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Jan 11, 2023 20:32
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