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To give some scope on how easy it is, my glowforge can trace outlines and things, so it is trivially easy to replicate wooden parts sprues. Like if I get a new big wooden model kit it would take me just a few hours to duplicate everything, and then just order the strip wood for the other parts. Even without glowforge easy tracing option there are other trivially easy ways to copy the sprues. It is really sad actually.
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Jan 6, 2023 21:25
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IncredibleIgloo posted:To give some scope on how easy it is, my glowforge can trace outlines and things, so it is trivially easy to replicate wooden parts sprues. Like if I get a new big wooden model kit it would take me just a few hours to duplicate everything, and then just order the strip wood for the other parts. Even without glowforge easy tracing option there are other trivially easy ways to copy the sprues. It is really sad actually. And then they simply photo-copy the plans with their own logo kinda pasted over the original. In some cases they do reprint the plans with Chinese language instead of the original, but in some cases ZHL has put out kits with the original manufacturers logo's still on the plans.
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Jan 6, 2023 21:30
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What brands of spray primer can be recommended? I was using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer but tbh it feels a little expensive for what you ultimately get out of a 180ml can. I picked the Fine version since I have lots of surface detail on my kits but if another brand has the same properties then I'd gladly give it a try.
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Jan 7, 2023 17:45
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Speaking second hand, as I've always airbrushed primer on my kits, but any decent brand of multi-purpose primer from the hardware store will probably suffice. I've heard lots of people over the years recommend Krylon primers on their scale models.
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Jan 7, 2023 17:51
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Rustoleum Grey Primer works very, very well. As good as any spray primer from an expensive company. I have never had the same luck with white from them. For White I use Army Painter, as it seems to be ok cost and coverage wise. Rustoluem's whites just have really uneven coverage for models of the smaller to medium size.
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Jan 7, 2023 18:31
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I bought rustoleum grey primer for the first time recently and keep having trouble with the nozzle clogging up. Luckily you can pop the spray head off and dump it in some acetone to clear it out, but very annoying.
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Jan 8, 2023 00:34
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Sometimes it can be helpful, when you are finished priming, to turn the can upside down and then depress the nozzle for a couple seconds until it is mostly shooting out propellent and not paint, as that can clear the nozzle.
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Jan 8, 2023 03:00
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I’ve also heard of people having their plastic destroyed by rustoleum stuff but I haven’t used it myself
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Jan 8, 2023 03:55
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Rust-Oleum is the go-to for North America for all the miniatures painters, at least in every thread I've seen here and abroad. In Australia Fiddly Bits from Bunnings and Australian Export from Supercheap Auto are the equivalent
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Jan 8, 2023 04:35
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Southern Heel posted:I bought rustoleum grey primer for the first time recently and keep having trouble with the nozzle clogging up. Luckily you can pop the spray head off and dump it in some acetone to clear it out, but very annoying. You can also buy replacements from graffiti supply stores. The stock caps are pretty lovely anyway. I’d contact them and describe how you’re using them and make sure to tell them it’s Rusto primer. https://artprimo.com/catalog/mobile_catalogue_new.php?cPath=27 https://troutartsupply.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=59 E- this suggestion is only for experimentation, I don’t have particular caps to recommend for models so buyer beware and test it thoroughly first, obviously. They’re fun 
Snowy fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Jan 8, 2023 |
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Jan 8, 2023 04:50
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Rustoleum Grey Primer works very, very well. As good as any spray primer from an expensive company. I have never had the same luck with white from them. For White I use Army Painter, as it seems to be ok cost and coverage wise. Rustoluem's whites just have really uneven coverage for models of the smaller to medium size.
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Jan 8, 2023 05:04
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Arquinsiel posted:I've had terrible luck with Army Painter's white sprays. One can had the nozzle crack in a weird way that resulted in the entire can venting, and the can I have now seems to always have a fine gritty finish no matter what I do with it. Yeah, I have had bad luck with the cans and clogs from army painter as well. I think the best white by far is GW, but paying 20 bucks or more for a can is bonkers. I just never have the same good experience with rustoleum white that I do with Grey, I cannot figure out why.
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Jan 8, 2023 07:04
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:I’ve also heard of people having their plastic destroyed by rustoleum stuff but I haven’t used it myself It's less to do with the spray paint, but the model itself. Some manufacturers, even big ones like Bandai, use cheap styrene in their models. Excessive amounts of of anything "hot", like a spray or lacquers, will melt the plastic.
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Jan 8, 2023 08:02
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Thanks for the input on primers! I'll try to pick up some spray from a tool retailer in my area for a try-out and will also try to get the spray primer from Vallejo for the same purpose. Annoyingly that product is currently not available through the distributor portal for my country.IncredibleIgloo posted:paying 20 bucks or more for a can is bonkers.
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Jan 8, 2023 15:43
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Mr. Surfacer 1500 is the best primer I've used, but I have only applied it from the jar with an airbrush. I haven't used the rattlecan version, but also haven't heard anybody complaining about it. It is lacquer based, so will be impervious to any top layers of enamel or acrylic.
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Jan 8, 2023 19:11
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Fine Molds Ki-61 in 1/72nd.       I went extremely light on the weathering because I wanted to toss off a quick kit without having to think about it much, and frankly I probably should have gone even lighter on the wash. The kit itself is pretty decent for how cheap it was (prolly about 20 bucks including shipping), even if you can see where there's some fitment problems around the trailing edge of the wings. Nice little set of brass barrels in it, which is a shame because I specifically didn't want them for this thing. Funny story, I was sitting there trying to figure out what to do with this thing, and "Ue o Muite Arukou" came on the local radio station. Seemed like kismet. It turned out to be easier to paint a lot of this thing freehand based on its size - if it's not white, yellow, or the silver underside, I painted it by hand, to moderate success. What absolutely drove me nuts is how much crud got into my paint. I dunno what the hell is wrong with my apartment, but I keep finding little bits of dust and cat fluff in what was, when each single layer of paint on this was wet, a totally clean stretch of material. I think my VMC Silver's gone bad, too. Everything else in that range is spraying perfectly fine, but for whatever reason I get sputtering out of the stuff unless I blast it at high enough pressure to pool immediately. Absolutely maddening.
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Jan 9, 2023 05:34
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That's really nice! I think I have Tamiya's one to build at some point - I love a colourful japanese aircraft.
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Jan 9, 2023 15:41
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Stupid question, but just to be sure, there isn't any reason a water slide decal can't handle being varnished over? I've got a bandai anime kit and I'm finding that my paint job on the figure is suprisingly delicate, and needs protection long enough that I can wedge it into the mech and never think about it again.
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Jan 11, 2023 12:49
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Gundam-building people do that all the time, they tend to refer to it as top-coating rather than varnishing. Search around for guides on decaling gundams and many/most of them will talk about top-coating.
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Jan 11, 2023 17:21
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MyronMulch posted:Gundam-building people do that all the time, they tend to refer to it as top-coating rather than varnishing. Search around for guides on decaling gundams and many/most of them will talk about top-coating. I figured it might be but, well no offense to the gundam guys, but that thread seems to be mostly gushing about cool kits then being pissed they sold out instantly to scalpers. I'm sure they'd help if I asked, but there doesn't seem to be much technique discussed in there lately...
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Jan 11, 2023 18:46
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We're always happy to discuss technique in the Gundam thread. 
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Jan 11, 2023 19:01
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Turbinosamente posted:Stupid question, but just to be sure, there isn't any reason a water slide decal can't handle being varnished over? I've got a bandai anime kit and I'm finding that my paint job on the figure is suprisingly delicate, and needs protection long enough that I can wedge it into the mech and never think about it again. I do it on all my car models. I do top coat, decals, then clearcoat (usually a gloss lacquer like Tamiya or 2K clear). I never have any issues but I do wait 24 hours after applying decals before I clearcoat over them.
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Jan 11, 2023 19:03
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The only time I had any problems with decals was when I applied washes directly on top and then sprayed varnish without letting it fully dry. Now I always varnish directly over the decals before doing anything else.
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Jan 11, 2023 19:05
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Yup clear-coating over decals is standard practice for aircraft, armour etc as it protects them from any weathering you're gonna hit the kit with, and helps unify the surface if e.g. the decal is glossy and paint more satin/matte.
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Jan 11, 2023 19:40
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Thanks muchly guys, I'll do some extra googling before I go to do it as well, just wanted to know quick whether it was a good or bad idea. I don't do kits all that often, just clearing out craft project backlogs to start the year.
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Jan 11, 2023 19:41
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I have a painting question related to doing camo patterns in combination with edge-highlights. The way I envision the process atm would be to do the base coat and then edge-highlight that for starters. Then I'd do the camo pattern over it and add another round of highlights on the camo parts where it's fitting with the appropriate colors. Seems fiddly to me but otherwise I'd expect the camo to look too flat in contrast to the highlights on the base color. Am I on the right track here or is that a dumb idea? 
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Jan 11, 2023 23:25
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Tin Tim posted:Am I on the right track here or is that a dumb idea? That should work fine.
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Jan 11, 2023 23:51
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mllaneza posted:That should work fine. Agreed. Also it's fiddly as you wanna make it. A lot of vehicle camo is pretty variable. Even if you're modeling something that's not, there's no shame in shifting the pattern a little to save time, eg so a complex edge has one color instead of all of them.
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Jan 12, 2023 02:06
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Got the Shinkai in the mail, still waiting for the paints so I started on the main body assembly. Fits very nicely together, a lot of parts can be snapped into place without glue even. Still, I have realized something that I didn't when I was a kid and very badly putting models together: oh wow, this hobby is 90% sanding.Bloody Hedgehog posted:Looks cool. The one thing you may want to get is a can of matte spray. Even with the parts molded in the correct colors, they'll be quite shiny and toy-like. A matte spray as your final coat will dull down the surface and give it some realism. I will try this, it definitely looks like it wants something done to it. I'm guessing I should apply it on top of decals, right?
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Jan 12, 2023 10:06
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grate deceiver posted:Got the Shinkai in the mail, still waiting for the paints so I started on the main body assembly. Fits very nicely together, a lot of parts can be snapped into place without glue even. Still, I have realized something that I didn't when I was a kid and very badly putting models together: oh wow, this hobby is 90% sanding. I used to think I did models. It wasn't until the pandemic hit, that I acutally really started "modeling". My goodness, if you buy a bad, or old, model.. 90% is an understatement. Gotta get it to fit first, then fill the gaps, then sand the filler, then re-add the markings you sanded away... THEN you prime.. and find all the things you missed..
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Jan 12, 2023 10:49
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Thanks again for the input! I'm probably just overthinking this stuff because it has been close to two decades since I last painted and I'm honestly a bit nervous about fuckin it up 
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Jan 12, 2023 13:53
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Accept that you will gently caress it up. Learn from loving it up. gently caress it up less next time.
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Jan 12, 2023 16:00
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Arquinsiel posted:Accept that you will gently caress it up. Learn from loving it up. gently caress it up less next time. Also don't throw your gently caress ups out. Keep them. Preserve them. Treasure them as tangible milestones of your personal progress and solemn memorials to the lessons you have learned. I'm in the middle of loving up a bust and plan on keeping it must like my first Space Marine and the WC-130 that I can only display from one angle because the decals on the other side are so thoroughly hosed.
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Jan 12, 2023 17:23
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I’m looking for an M58 MICLIC trailer in 1:35, all I can find is a discontinued Hobbyfan resin model for about $140 CAD, which obviously is outside my budget. Anyone know where I can find one reasonably priced, or a 3D printable file? I know it’s a long shot.
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Jan 12, 2023 18:06
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While I'm waiting for some paints to arrive to continue the Cougar I decided to break into a new kit, a Panzer IV by Academy. The parts were fitting comparatively terrible so I checked it out on scalemates and it seems to originate way back in 1968 from a company called "Nichimo" and has then been passed around to quite literally *everyone*. The list is a billion miles long and wide. Does this mean it is effectively a 55 year old kit or would it have been revised in the intervening years? I thoroughly enjoyed building the Trumpeter Cougar but this Panzer IV sucks. The instructions are so muddy I put some parts in the wrong way too. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/academy-1328-panzerkampfwagen-iv-ausf-h-j--107559
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Jan 13, 2023 18:05
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therunningman posted:While I'm waiting for some paints to arrive to continue the Cougar I decided to break into a new kit, a Panzer IV by Academy. I expect it means the tool passed around to everyone all these years on that ridiculous product timeline was originally hand carved from flint by the Yayoi people NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jan 13, 2023 |
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Jan 13, 2023 18:35
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This article about the history of the old AMT starship Enterprise is an interesting study of how a popular old model kit can evolve over a half century. They compare vintage ones with more recent ones. https://culttvman.com/main/a-history-of-the-amt-enteprise-model-by-jay-chladek-part-1/ Short version of the story is that it was originally designed with access to the original filming model but was so popular they wore the tooling out in the 70s and had to recreate a lot of it so everything has changed a bit over time.
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Jan 13, 2023 19:12
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Nerobro posted:I used to think I did models. It wasn't until the pandemic hit, that I acutally really started "modeling". My goodness, if you buy a bad, or old, model.. 90% is an understatement. Gotta get it to fit first, then fill the gaps, then sand the filler, then re-add the markings you sanded away... When it comes to car models there's an old joke that with Tamiya you can just pour some glue in the box, shake it up, and out pops a fully assembled model. The quality is just that good. I've had pretty good experiences with Aoshima and Fujimi but they aren't quite Tamiya good. Older revell and especially AMT models on the other hand... They separate the men from the boys.
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Jan 13, 2023 19:32
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What's the goon opinion on Zvezda? They have a lot of kits I'd be very interested in - big soviet trucks, chonky ugly planes, strange experimental machines, and this big boy.
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Jan 13, 2023 19:53
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grate deceiver posted:What's the goon opinion on Zvezda? They have a lot of kits I'd be very interested in - big soviet trucks, chonky ugly planes, strange experimental machines, and this big boy. 90s Zvezda is 70s Italeri kits or original kits of comparable quality. Zvezda past the mid-2000s or so is all new stuff, I'm very happy with all of their kits I bought since then.
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Jan 13, 2023 19:56
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