|
Happiness Commando posted:I want an N100 respirator. Half face, ideally. I went to my local not-home depot hardware store and they had a couple P95 models, but that's it. Is there a reputable place online I can buy from that will sell authentic and legitimately protective filters, or should I go to home depot or what? Home depot or some type of safety supply store. I've gotten things from https://www.conney.com/ before, because that's approved vendor for the company my wife works for (so we get the giant corporate discount) I would not trust amazon/craiglists/whatever in this case.
|
# ? Jan 16, 2023 23:51 |
|
|
# ? May 29, 2024 18:47 |
|
Yeah don’t buy PPE from Amazon.
|
# ? Jan 16, 2023 23:52 |
|
Can't the 3M 7500 series take just about any filter you want. They can even be hooked up to a fresh air system.
|
# ? Jan 17, 2023 09:18 |
|
Happiness Commando posted:I want an N100 respirator. Half face, ideally. I went to my local not-home depot hardware store and they had a couple P95 models, but that's it. Is there a reputable place online I can buy from that will sell authentic and legitimately protective filters, or should I go to home depot or what? You sound like you know enough to not buy PPE from Amazon, Walmart, or anywhere else with a third party marketplace, so that’s good. I get a lot of my safety stuff from Jendco for no reason except they ship quickly, have good customer service, and had my mask of choice (Honeywell North 7700 series) in stock. Other established suppliers for masks are Grainger, Zoro (big companies with established supply chains).
|
# ? Jan 17, 2023 16:35 |
|
Kitchen question: I have a family member that just moved into a rental. They have a ton of tall kitchen cabinets but each cabinet only has one drat wood shelf in it. It's one of those styles where you can put pegs inside the cabinet and rest a shelf on it. What's the easiest/cheapest way to go about adding more shelves? It doesn't need to be fancy, just hold plates/glasses etc... Do I get measurements and take it to Home Depot and ask them to cut a whole bunch of wood, or can I get pre-cut sizes or what?
|
# ? Jan 17, 2023 20:08 |
|
Hughmoris posted:Kitchen question: Do they have the make of the cabinets? I would try that first. Going and getting wood from HD or Lowes is gonna add up and you'll need to stain it, etc to make sure it matches. The cabinet maker likely has shelves they can get you directly. Also Home Depot and Lowes cutting machines are like McDonald's Ice Cream machines. They're never working.
|
# ? Jan 17, 2023 20:16 |
|
They also do not guarantee the dimension you ask them to cut. Mostly it's used for cutting up wood so it fits better in your car.
|
# ? Jan 17, 2023 20:24 |
|
BonoMan posted:Do they have the make of the cabinets? I would try that first. Going and getting wood from HD or Lowes is gonna add up and you'll need to stain it, etc to make sure it matches. The cabinet maker likely has shelves they can get you directly. tater_salad posted:They also do not guarantee the dimension you ask them to cut. Mostly it's used for cutting up wood so it fits better in your car. I'll measure the dimensions next time I'm there and see if I can find any sort of cabinet maker/label. We aren't going for pretty, mainly inexpensive and functional. If we have to toss them at the end of the lease than no biggie (assuming they aren't stupid expensive). Thanks!
|
# ? Jan 17, 2023 20:54 |
|
kreeningsons posted:You sound like you know enough to not buy PPE from Amazon, Walmart, or anywhere else with a third party marketplace, so that’s good. I get a lot of my safety stuff from Jendco for no reason except they ship quickly, have good customer service, and had my mask of choice (Honeywell North 7700 series) in stock. Other established suppliers for masks are Grainger, Zoro (big companies with established supply chains). I completely forgot about forgeries and recently bought a pack of 3M Aura masks off of Amazon Is there any reliable way to tell if I got counterfeits, or to test the masks' functionality?
|
# ? Jan 17, 2023 21:11 |
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I completely forgot about forgeries and recently bought a pack of 3M Aura masks off of Amazon The only real way to functionally test auras is destructive. There’s some info here on red flags for counterfeits and the authentication process, which still doesn’t 100% guarantee authenticity https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1960842O/3m-8210-9205-9210-counterfeit-communication-letter.pdf For my money, I steer clear of anything even slightly questionable when it comes to PPE
|
# ? Jan 17, 2023 21:29 |
|
kreeningsons posted:The only real way to functionally test auras is destructive. There’s some info here on red flags for counterfeits and the authentication process, which still doesn’t 100% guarantee authenticity https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1960842O/3m-8210-9205-9210-counterfeit-communication-letter.pdf Thanks! My lot number isn't on there, but as you note that doesn't guarantee anything. My use case is pandemic protection while I'm out in public. I have a proper half-mask respirator for when I need dust mitigation. Does anyone know how much function counterfeit masks actually provide in practice? I could believe anywhere from "nothing" to "maybe half as much filtration as a real mask". These masks do at least make a proper seal on the face, so they should be filtering my breath on its way out...
|
# ? Jan 17, 2023 21:46 |
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks! My lot number isn't on there, but as you note that doesn't guarantee anything. This is the most I could find. He evidently tested the counterfeit masks with his apparatus, but doesn’t say how effective they were in this video. Maybe that was intentional or maybe it’s in another one of his videos. He might respond on Twitter if you really want to know. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_LOyzaKYIpc
|
# ? Jan 17, 2023 22:55 |
|
Hughmoris posted:I'll measure the dimensions next time I'm there and see if I can find any sort of cabinet maker/label. We aren't going for pretty, mainly inexpensive and functional. If we have to toss them at the end of the lease than no biggie (assuming they aren't stupid expensive). They sell shelving there if it works grab a cheap rear end harbor freight saw.. a Diablo blade from HD and go for it. Or look online for x by x shelves
|
# ? Jan 18, 2023 00:06 |
|
The scratch and dent section at IKEA always has miscellaneous shelves, boards, cabinet pieces, etc.
|
# ? Jan 18, 2023 18:58 |
|
Slugworth posted:It comes in a variety of stained colors. Motronic posted:Not stained. Factory coated. You can Slugworth posted:We may be talking past each other - I meant stained as in impregnated with color, so it survives chips and what not as you said. Hardie's marketing materials aren't easy to parse. Their factory finish is called 'ColorPlus' and is an applied coating. It may be resistant to chipping, but it is not integral to the material (it's a 'cured' finish - UV or heat or something, the marketing isn't clear but they like to use the words 'cured' and 'baked'). This 'ColorPlus' program breaks out into three sub-categories as a market segmentation strategy: Statement ($), Dream ($$), and Magnolia ($$$). Different colors and siding materials are available in each program. For example, if you want lap siding the Statement collection only includes 6-inch exposure with a faux 'cedar' pattern. If you want smooth, that's Dream or Magnolia. If you want to 'match' a color you can get 'prefinished' Hardie. In my experience this involves Hardie sending primed material to a third-party finisher who then ships it to your siding vendor. Given that they ship liquid touch-up gallons with the order, I assume this pre-finishing is a more typical air-cure exterior paint. This process isn't really a Hardie process, but sometimes it gets mistaken for one since the client feels like they buy prefinished material and it shows up, and doesn't know about this extra step in the middle. If the color is not in Statement/Dream/Magnolia then it isn't getting finished by Hardie. Happy to be wrong about this, it's an opaque process but the above is my experience. I included quotes as context for my comments, and I'm not implying that anyone I quoted is incorrect.
|
# ? Jan 18, 2023 19:23 |
|
Tezer posted:Happy to be wrong about this, it's an opaque process but the above is my experience. I included quotes as context for my comments, and I'm not implying that anyone I quoted is incorrect. Yeah, those are all good callouts. I'm talking about the factory baked on coating. 15 years later it's still 100% the same color (I have spare material that's not exposed to weather or sun) and texture and cleans up with a pressure washer easily. It is very obviously not impregnated. You can see the "factory slop" dripped on the back of one of my spare pieces.
|
# ? Jan 18, 2023 19:48 |
|
Yeah, even after 15+ years of south Texas sun the Hardie siding on my mother's house still looks brand new after a power washing.
|
# ? Jan 18, 2023 21:26 |
|
Is Hardie siding different from the big panels of some sort of cement board they put on new rectangular houses? I see a fair amount with badly faded colors. Is that just exterior paint or something and the factory finish you all are talking about is something different?
|
# ? Jan 18, 2023 23:25 |
|
Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Is Hardie siding different from the big panels of some sort of cement board they put on new rectangular houses? I see a fair amount with badly faded colors. Is that just exterior paint or something and the factory finish you all are talking about is something different? If it's fading then it's likely to be a similar product made by someone else or a hardie product that was coated by someone else with something else. https://www.jameshardie.com/
|
# ? Jan 18, 2023 23:27 |
|
Motronic posted:If it's fading then it's likely to be a similar product made by someone else or a hardie product that was coated by someone else with something else. Sounds like I wrongly assumed hardie board was a generic term Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I'm in the process of selling my old house and the buyer inspection noted some holes in the garage that need to be covered. Thanks again for all your help a few days ago. I finally heard back from the non profit (not sure if this is from the inspector or their own suggestion) and I am being instructed to cover the holes with stainless steel plates. The examples shown were basically wall plates which is kind of funny. Any suggestions for something similar? Wall plates aren't totally flat and have holes in them. Maybe I could get a large sheet and some tin snips and cut to size? edit: these guys look good https://www.homedepot.com/p/OATEY-5-in-x-8-in-16-Gauge-Stud-Guard-Safety-Plate-33517/301505416 It also sounds like they want me to put a toe kick plate over the cat door but there is currently a question of if I need to bother since the door is not explicitly called out in the HUD form, only the walls. Teabag Dome Scandal fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Jan 19, 2023 |
# ? Jan 19, 2023 00:24 |
|
The house is super dusty, but to clean it I need to vacuum, and I'm already severely sniffly (as in filling up a kitchen trash bag with Kleenex every one-to-two days.) Every time I vacuum I get a major allergy flareup. I want to get a respirator that is comfortable and easy to breathe in, and that works well with glasses. I know not to buy it from Amazon. Is there a known SA place to go to find respirator recs? The COVID thread? e: No, an N-95 isn't nearly good enough. And yes, we have two high-quality air filters, one on each floor.
|
# ? Jan 19, 2023 01:39 |
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:The house is super dusty, but to clean it I need to vacuum, and I'm already severely sniffly (as in filling up a kitchen trash bag with Kleenex every one-to-two days.) Every time I vacuum I get a major allergy flareup. I have dust allergies too, but I find for cleaning dusty stuff a N95 (3M Aura is what I've been using) is fine. That's just me, though. I don't follow it but I've heard that the CSPAM covid thread has the best recommendations for respirators you can wear comfortably that are well sourced. In general for dust you'll want a P100 filter to go with it which is like an N95 but better.
|
# ? Jan 19, 2023 01:57 |
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:The house is super dusty, but to clean it I need to vacuum, and I'm already severely sniffly (as in filling up a kitchen trash bag with Kleenex every one-to-two days.) Every time I vacuum I get a major allergy flareup. Where you want to buy will depend on your country but in general you'll want to shop safety product companies websites so you know their stock is sourced from legit manufacturers. Here's an example of a GVS Elipse w/ P100 filters. Here's a snip from the covid OP with masking links (you'll find different masks fit your face differently so if you want to hunt for the most comfortable fit it could take a while but for short lengths of vacuuming time it probably doesn't matter): Trixie Hardcore posted:Masks
|
# ? Jan 19, 2023 02:17 |
|
Tezer posted:I included quotes as context for my comments, and I'm not implying that anyone I quoted is incorrect.
|
# ? Jan 19, 2023 02:58 |
|
Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Sounds like I wrongly assumed hardie board was a generic term In the same way that some people use the word Kleenex to talk about all facial tissue, i imagine some people use the phrase Hardie board to refer to all fiber cement clapboard siding.
|
# ? Jan 19, 2023 05:08 |
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:The house is super dusty, but to clean it I need to vacuum, and I'm already severely sniffly (as in filling up a kitchen trash bag with Kleenex every one-to-two days.) Every time I vacuum I get a major allergy flareup. CSPAM Covid thread is the best place to ask about respirators. But carrying over, any good (3m, honeywell, msa, and most others) half mask with p100 filters is going to be easier to breathe through than an N95, because the P100 filters are accordioned to allow for more surface area. Most important part for comfort is get one with a silicone face seal. This is basically any mask that isn't bottom tier. Costs a bit more than thermoplastic, and feels way better. As for exact models, there's a few I can recommend depending on exactly what you want. 3M secure click + D3091 filters. Easiest to breathe through, incredibly close to wearing no mask at all. This is the heaviest and most expensive mask, but it supports itself well and has a button perform your seal check. The Cadillac of half masks, big, expensive, heavy, and fully of luxury features. This mask uses it's own special filters that may be harder to find. 3M 7500, 6500QL, and 6500 + 2097 filters. (7093 for rain proof filters.) Solid choices, cheaper and lighter than the SC, with their own feature sets. these all use 3Ms classic bayonet filters that are super easy to find. Last digit of the model number denotes size, 1/2/3 for s/m/l. Honeywell North 7700 + 7580P100 filter. Light and simple. No extra features, no extra plastic bonded to the silicone mask, just a basic good quality mask. Very easy to disassemble to clean. Honeywell filters are screw on, and a bit easier to install than the 3M bayonet filters. As for glasses, I have to rest mine up on the mask, and tuck the legs under the mask straps. The Secureclick is probably the worst for that, it's nose piece is a bit bigger and accordioned to deal with it's extra bulk, and pushes my glasses up a bit more than the 7700. None of them are unusable with glasses, I mostly just have to look down more to compensate for my glasses being higher. jetz0r fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Jan 19, 2023 |
# ? Jan 19, 2023 06:38 |
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:The house is super dusty, but to clean it I need to vacuum, and I'm already severely sniffly (as in filling up a kitchen trash bag with Kleenex every one-to-two days.) Every time I vacuum I get a major allergy flareup. It sounds like you need to address the source of the dust more than filtration and vacuuming. What is causing such a build up, and are you actually capturing it when vacuuming or filtering? Are your windows open all the time? Attic dust coming through fixtures? Vacuum actually doesn't filter for poo poo? Air ducts in dire need of cleaning or are unsealed somewhere in the attic? Family of long haired cats and a dog with eczema? Serious question - have you talked to a doctor about these things? I had a literal decade of post nasal drip which was exacerbated by dust and pollen and nature. It turned out that I had a pool of infection that was stuck in some anatomical abnormality in my nose and I needed a month or two straight of 2 different antibiotics in series to kill it off. Now I don't get sinus infections every other month and it's been glorious. I still get the drip when I do huge rails of I do yard work in some kind of 3M half face with N or P100 cartridges on it and have 0 allergies through my nose/mouth. My skin itches like crazy though.
|
# ? Jan 19, 2023 16:31 |
|
Unfortunately, N95 paper masks often fit and seal so poorly that they're not effective. One of the reasons a legit respirator is so much more effective is that they're typically designed with a flexible rubber seal that can actually create a seal on your face (assuming you don't have a big fluffy beard...). I have N95-rated masks with valves that I can adjust to fit well on my face and they are great at keeping out typical household dust. That said, "dust" can range from 0.05 - 100 microns in size, and at the smallest end of that scale it'll go right through N95 and even many N99 rated filters. It's also the slowest to settle in the air. Your home is basically always got at least some dust floating around. For me, the biggest issue is mold spores, but those range from 2-10 microns and N95 is approved for mold remediation. the tl;dr I think is that first make sure you are using PPE that fits properly. If you find properly sealing N95 isn't filtering the very fine dust particles you're working with, you can go for something with finer level filtration with the understanding it'll probably cost more, be less convenient, and require even more attention and care to getting and maintaining a good seal on the face. I'm skeptical that if this is the problem, you can ever take the mask off inside that home because sub 1-micron dust could take days or weeks (or never) actually settle out of the air.
|
# ? Jan 19, 2023 18:49 |
Not sure which thread is most appropriate for this so I'll ask here. I have a mini fridge/wine cooler thing I bought a few months ago and it works great but for the past few days it's been making a fairly loud clicking sound when it turns on. The fan seems to spin fine and it's staying cool and at the target temperature of 37F so I assume the compressor is working fine. It's not really loud when it's running it's just a single moderately loud click every time it turns on, and occasionally it will do it and not turn on. Is this probably the compressor start relay going bad? It's not keeping me up at night or anything but it's loud enough I notice it when I'm sitting on the other side of the house wearing noise canceling headphones so I'd like to get it fixed.
|
|
# ? Jan 20, 2023 01:00 |
|
If you bought it new a few months ago I would just call the manufacturer and tell them something makes a loud clunk when it starts but it isn't keeping things cool. If it fails to start more than once in a day or two that's something dying, and the relay is a good guess.
|
# ? Jan 20, 2023 01:11 |
|
While moving a bunk bed in the room of my younger daughter, I found a couple of large bulges in the wall behind where the bed was, one of which has a fairly prominent diagonal crack and one of which has a less prominent crack. Taking pictures of them in order to show the problem was pretty fruitless, though I've attached one anyway where I outlined the bulges with painter's tape. I'm afraid to poke it too much in case I find out what's behind the tumors. Given that there are two discontinuous bulges though, and I don't see anything on the ceiling or wall of the floor below, I don't think it's water damage? At any rate, I'm not really sure what to do about it.
|
# ? Jan 21, 2023 04:27 |
|
If you push on the wall gently, does it move? It might be just that the drywall's pulled away from the studs a bit, which is a bit unsightly but harmless. That's a short wall, there's probably only 3 or maybe 4 studs behind it.
|
# ? Jan 21, 2023 04:51 |
|
Is there a fiberglass thread?
|
# ? Jan 21, 2023 08:16 |
|
chutwig posted:While moving a bunk bed in the room of my younger daughter, I found a couple of large bulges in the wall behind where the bed was, one of which has a fairly prominent diagonal crack and one of which has a less prominent crack. Taking pictures of them in order to show the problem was pretty fruitless, though I've attached one anyway where I outlined the bulges with painter's tape. I'm afraid to poke it too much in case I find out what's behind the tumors. Given that there are two discontinuous bulges though, and I don't see anything on the ceiling or wall of the floor below, I don't think it's water damage? At any rate, I'm not really sure what to do about it. you have plaster walls and the house settling placed stress on the brittle plaster, in response the plaster cracks and bows away from the wall. you can do the following: a) leave it, honestly should be fine. hairline cracks will likely continue to spread until they reach a termination point (corner of wall, window etc), but its just aesthetic b) use mesh fiber tape over the cracks, smooth with 2-3 coats of hot mud (eg: EasySand 45). will hide the cracks but not really slow the progression and you still have to paint. Maybe the worst option considering its a lot of work and you're not fixing it c) fix it by removing the loose plaster carefully with a hammer and chisel/screwdriver. once you open it up, the loose plaster will come off easily. Remove anything that isnt firmly attached to the wall. Cut 1/4" drywall to fit the hole, fasten to the studs but you can also fasten to the wooden lath so long as you dont overdrive the screws. prefill the gaps between drywall and remaining plaster with joint compound. once that sets, apply fiber mesh tape and 2-3 coats of joint compound. no offense, but if you're asking on here i suspect you've never done drywall repair and so i'd recommend option a). options b) and c) are kinda messy and generate a lot of dust, and would probably cost a couple hundred bucks to have someone do it. Ah, also good chance the plaster was painted with lead paint and removing it will of course generate a lot of lead dust.
|
# ? Jan 21, 2023 13:40 |
|
properly applied plaster spills over onto the other side of the wooden lath and forms "keys" which act as little hooks to hold the plaster tight to the wall: when subject to shear forces, the plaster keys break and so the plaster comes loose and separates from the wall.
|
# ? Jan 21, 2023 13:48 |
|
I’m throwing together some shelves in a small closet with some semi/scrap wood. I have some 3/4” ply that I plan to sit on top of a ‘ring’ of 1x3” spf, mounted to the back and side walls. For reference the back wall is 24” wide, sides are 16” deep (so my plywood is 24x16”). My question is about mounting the 1x3s. I can send at least one 2.5” wood screw through the 1x3 and drywall and into a stud. But additional screws… does it make sense to send wood screws through the 1x3 and into drywall anchors?
|
# ? Jan 22, 2023 00:01 |
|
DreadLlama posted:Is there a fiberglass thread? Nope. Do you mean insulation fiberglass or are you repairing body panels on a Corvette?
|
# ? Jan 22, 2023 04:01 |
|
My buddy’s heat pump outdoor unit freezes over frequently when heating in the winter. Does anyone ever bolt aftermarket heat sinks to these things to increase efficiency? If this is a thing, can anyone direct me to further resources?
|
# ? Jan 22, 2023 19:16 |
|
yippee cahier posted:My buddy’s heat pump outdoor unit freezes over frequently when heating in the winter. Does anyone ever bolt aftermarket heat sinks to these things to increase efficiency? If this is a thing, can anyone direct me to further resources? If you're having trouble with the unit freezing, then effectively dissipating heat is not your problem. I imagine that the solution here is to add a resistive heater to the heat pump. This would reduce its efficiency, of course.
|
# ? Jan 22, 2023 19:25 |
|
|
# ? May 29, 2024 18:47 |
|
yippee cahier posted:My buddy’s heat pump outdoor unit freezes over frequently when heating in the winter. Does anyone ever bolt aftermarket heat sinks to these things to increase efficiency? If this is a thing, can anyone direct me to further resources? That's a common thing when operating at the edge (or past) their ability to heat. What model? What outdoor temps? Either it needs service (clean the fins indoors and out, check charge) or he needs to upgrade his heating capacity (switch to another source, upgrade units).
|
# ? Jan 22, 2023 19:28 |