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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Looks like the handle spacer (the black plastic bit at the bottom of the handle) is like a $17 part, which is indeed highway robbery for a little piece of plastic but it's how stuff like this is priced. Other parts of the door may also be available. I'd probably pull it out and take it apart and see what I can fix myself. It might be just that part that's completely broken, and the plastic on the edge of the door has a crack that you can ignore or maybe fill with epoxy or something.

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Ours the plastic trinket that holds the handle in tore through the door. Fuckers. We tried some e6000 but it didn't hold. Need to escalate.

jetz0r
May 10, 2003

Tomorrow, our nation will sit on the throne of the world. This is not a figment of the imagination, but a fact. Tomorrow we will lead the world, Allah willing.



DaveSauce posted:

Soooo is this something I can tear in to and fix? I can see screw covers, but the only thing that gives me pause is some sites say that a technician has to do door work and perform a leak test to make sure the door seals, but I'm not sure if that's a Real Thing or just a disclaimer repair sites put up so you don't fry your brain.


Microwaves won't leak out through cracks in the plastic. If the door latches to create a complete Faraday cage, you're good. The handle and and anything outside the sheet metal cage are all for human comforts, not microwave containing safety.

So yeah, you're good to try epoxying the handle back into place. Just don't add any new materials to the inside of the cage area, they might absorb energy and melt or burn.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

kid sinister posted:

I say take it apart and JB Weld it.

This is what I would do.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I am considering starting to finish part of my basement. The basement is currently glued down carpet, concrete walls, lots of EMT and a some studs+drywall around the furnace. There is single swing in window that is about 13”x32”. I have zero desire to try cut a proper egress window myself. I got ball park estimate of 7-9k for a code compliant egress window. Internet says thats probably a couple grand high. I could fit a 22”x32” window without having to cut cement. Is trying to order a custom window a reasonable thing to do?

I would like figure out how make the basement less of death trap and what it would cost before I spend another 3 hours learning about vapor barriers.

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Most windows you don't buy off the shelves at home depot are custom made. I've had good luck with window world, nothing fancy but straight forward pricing and good warranty.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Rakeris posted:

Most windows you don't buy off the shelves at home depot are custom made. I've had good luck with window world, nothing fancy but straight forward pricing and good warranty.

Does that go for doors as well?
I know someone who needs to replace a side garage door and apparently, its a bit smaller, width wise than "regular doors".

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


So I have a decent sized pool, it’s above ground but they built the deck around it. Every year I spend a couple weeks and several hundred dollars getting it set up, and then we use it maybe 2 or 3 times.
I don’t know if anyone here would have experience with this but I’m considering getting some ducks and turning it into a pond. How feasible is that and what do I need to consider?

Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

Calidus posted:

I am considering starting to finish part of my basement. The basement is currently glued down carpet, concrete walls, lots of EMT and a some studs+drywall around the furnace. There is single swing in window that is about 13”x32”. I have zero desire to try cut a proper egress window myself. I got ball park estimate of 7-9k for a code compliant egress window. Internet says thats probably a couple grand high. I could fit a 22”x32” window without having to cut cement. Is trying to order a custom window a reasonable thing to do?

I would like figure out how make the basement less of death trap and what it would cost before I spend another 3 hours learning about vapor barriers.

Assuming you are governed by IBC/IRC a basement egress window needs to satisfy a list of conditions. These include minimum opening size in two dimensions as well as total overall opening area. How far the window is installed from the floor on the interior, and ground level on the exterior. Total space provided outside of the window inside the window well if the window is not already located above grade.

It is unlikely that you will find a window that is only 22 inches wide and satisfies egress, because minimum clear opening side to side in most codes is 20 inches. Talk to a local supplier who can quote a custom window size and they should be knowledgeable about local codes that may differ.

Egress windows usually come in around $12-15k when I quote them. This includes excavating, installing a egress well built from landscaping stone, cutting a hole in the foundation, installing the window, finishing interior/exterior of the window (casing, painting, etc.). My pricing is usually on the higher end, but not unusual.

Sash!
Mar 16, 2001


Do you need one in the first place? Where I'm at, I wasn't required to do so because there's no bedroom down there and the house was built before 2003.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Sash! posted:

Do you need one in the first place? Where I'm at, I wasn't required to do so because there's no bedroom down there and the house was built before 2003.

That's why Tezer started out with, "Assuming you are governed by IBC/IRC ". The answer is going to be specific to your local building code.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I am not required because I wasn’t planning on putting a bed room down there. That said if I going do anything with that window now is time to do it. That said if people are going spend money time down there I would like to make the window bigger if I can keep a reasonable budget. What a reasonable budget is I haven’t really figured out.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Opopanax posted:

So I have a decent sized pool, it’s above ground but they built the deck around it. Every year I spend a couple weeks and several hundred dollars getting it set up, and then we use it maybe 2 or 3 times.
I don’t know if anyone here would have experience with this but I’m considering getting some ducks and turning it into a pond. How feasible is that and what do I need to consider?
You would not believe how much ducks poo poo

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Anne Whateley posted:

You would not believe how much ducks poo poo

There's a good amount of deck surrounding it with a gate that closes things off, I figured I'd rip the boards up, put down some thick plywood, and then cover it with hay or something. It overhangs a greenspace which is 99% blackberry bushes so I should be able to rig up a hatch to just shovel everything into once in a while

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
The ducks will poo poo directly into the pond. And dabble.

The outcome is going to be you spending like 10x as much time and effort to use the pool 0 times. Ducks also don't want to cuddle, so your main interactions are going to be looking at them, buying food for them, cleaning up after them, and trying to get them into a coop before dark every night (which your schedule will revolve around). Everything wants to eat ducks so your kids will get to watch the circle of life up close.

Source: my aunt has a duck, and it's extreme effort for honestly no reward. The duck is pretty though

If you absolutely have to do it, I would at least get a goose. Bigger shits but it has a better shot at defending itself, or at least making such a racket you come out and save it. It will bite you, though, but so will the ducks

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I wouldn't get a goose if you have kids. Geese are mean.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Domestic geese are more trainable than ducks, and some even have the capacity for affection. If you're willing to put in the time, you can end up with a guard goose who's chill with your family, while being vicious to raccoons, dogs, mailmen, etc.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Tezer posted:

Assuming you are governed by IBC/IRC a basement egress window needs to satisfy a list of conditions. These include minimum opening size in two dimensions as well as total overall opening area. How far the window is installed from the floor on the interior, and ground level on the exterior. Total space provided outside of the window inside the window well if the window is not already located above grade.

It is unlikely that you will find a window that is only 22 inches wide and satisfies egress, because minimum clear opening side to side in most codes is 20 inches. Talk to a local supplier who can quote a custom window size and they should be knowledgeable about local codes that may differ.

Egress windows usually come in around $12-15k when I quote them. This includes excavating, installing a egress well built from landscaping stone, cutting a hole in the foundation, installing the window, finishing interior/exterior of the window (casing, painting, etc.). My pricing is usually on the higher end, but not unusual.

That is pretty expensive, $5-7k is what I’ve seen in my area, albeit w a fiberglass well

Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

That is pretty expensive, $5-7k is what I’ve seen in my area, albeit w a fiberglass well

Ya, the landscaping work runs up the budget. We also are usually working on houses with nice plantings which need to be put back, etc. And they want extra light, so we build an extra wide well (which is why we aren't using prefab wells) and stick a couple of windows in, not just one. That's why I try to always warn that my numbers are real numbers, but higher than what a lot of people want to spend.

Prefab fiberglass well kit (which typically includes an inexpensive code compliant window as part of the 'kit') should run $5-7k like you mention if site access is simple and the excavator is willing to cut the hole (usually requires it to be cut from the exterior, as most of them own gas saws). There's always a little 'extra' scope tacked on somewhere though, so a quote for $9k doesn't sound crazy to me.

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


I'm not getting a goose, I'm Canadian, I have an ingrained primal fear of geese

korora
Sep 3, 2011

Anne Whateley posted:

The ducks will poo poo directly into the pond. And dabble.

The outcome is going to be you spending like 10x as much time and effort to use the pool 0 times. Ducks also don't want to cuddle, so your main interactions are going to be looking at them, buying food for them, cleaning up after them, and trying to get them into a coop before dark every night (which your schedule will revolve around). Everything wants to eat ducks so your kids will get to watch the circle of life up close.

Source: my aunt has a duck, and it's extreme effort for honestly no reward. The duck is pretty though

If you absolutely have to do it, I would at least get a goose. Bigger shits but it has a better shot at defending itself, or at least making such a racket you come out and save it. It will bite you, though, but so will the ducks

We have had three ducks for about a year and a half and they're ~10-20 minutes of chores a day, are decently friendly (but definitely not cuddly), and provide 2-3 eggs a day. That said, the advice as I understand it is to never give them water they can get inside (except maybe sometimes as a treat) or else it's a huge mess.

erosion
Dec 21, 2002

It's true and I'm tired of pretending it isn't
Apropos of nothing I just discovered that screen spline, normally used to replace window screens, actually makes a pretty drat good improvised material for filling gaps around basement windows, and I had to share that immediately because it's such a big win for me. Maybe I can get this place insulated yet.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Anyone have any general tips for running 14/3 between floors? I've accepted some holes will need to be made, and that it will be a frustrating process. Looking for any tips to make it slightly less so.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Jenkl posted:

Anyone have any general tips for running 14/3 between floors? I've accepted some holes will need to be made, and that it will be a frustrating process. Looking for any tips to make it slightly less so.

If you have basement or attic access try fishing along side a drain stack might save you a couple holes. If you go up a stack, going up to the attic and then back down is sometimes the easiest solution. The back walls of closets are your friend.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Resign yourself to making more holes than you want and you will have a happier time doing it. Also little inspection cameras might help you not miss the holes you have to drill.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Is it ridiculous of me to think I'll be able to slip this wire into an existing junction box from a hole in an adjacent bathroom, maybe 2' max away?

I'm thinking the answer is yes, see hawks comment.

Sigh, it's the spot on a ceiling right at the entry way, everywhere else I can work in closets or easily patched segments.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Jenkl posted:

Is it ridiculous of me to think I'll be able to slip this wire into an existing junction box from a hole in an adjacent bathroom, maybe 2' max away?

I'm thinking the answer is yes, see hawks comment.

Sigh, it's the spot on a ceiling right at the entry way, everywhere else I can work in closets or easily patched segments.

Honestly without some further description of the work, who knows. What's your house built out of, how old, how far, etc.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Jenkl posted:

Anyone have any general tips for running 14/3 between floors? I've accepted some holes will need to be made, and that it will be a frustrating process. Looking for any tips to make it slightly less so.


Fish tape is your friend.

Jenkl posted:

Is it ridiculous of me to think I'll be able to slip this wire into an existing junction box from a hole in an adjacent bathroom, maybe 2' max away?

I'm thinking the answer is yes, see hawks comment.

Sigh, it's the spot on a ceiling right at the entry way, everywhere else I can work in closets or easily patched segments.

Fish tape is also your friend.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Jenkl posted:

Is it ridiculous of me to think I'll be able to slip this wire into an existing junction box from a hole in an adjacent bathroom, maybe 2' max away?

I'm thinking the answer is yes, see hawks comment.

Sigh, it's the spot on a ceiling right at the entry way, everywhere else I can work in closets or easily patched segments.

It would be easier to cut the existing box out of the wall, fish your wire, then use an old work box. Put some masking tape on the wall and mark the height of the box screw before you start, so you know what height to put your new box at. Use a pocket hacksaw or an oscillating tool to cut the box nails away from the stud, then pull the old box out of the wall. You now have a hold big enough to stick your hand in to fish cable.

You said 14/3 cable. If you want a box with more gangs for more switches, now is the time to plan that out. Reach in the wall first before you cut any drywall and feel for any studs. If the wall cavity is indeed empty, go ahead and cut.

Wait… what kind of junction box? Is this a ceiling box? If that box has a brace, you might be able to remove it from the brace, run your wire and put the old box right back in place. Pull the wires out of the box and post a picture of the bottom of the box if you would. We will tell you if that’s possible.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
It is indeed a ceiling box, the 14/3 is to interconnect smoke alarms from the main floor to the basement.

What I really want is to avoid having to cut near the existing box on the main floor (basement is new one) as its the only spot where I'd need to make a hole that's in an area that's hard to patch and hide.

I think that idea of cutting the box out might work to avoid said patching.

I'll be using the fish tape, and I'll post some pictures if i get a chance.

CubicalSucrose
Jan 1, 2013

Phantom my Opera and call me South Park: Bigger, Longer, & Uncut
Whirlpool top-load washing machine like 5-10 years old. Won't drain, just clicks when I try and start it. Followed a bunch of YouTubes to unplug, manually drain, unplugged and cleared the hoses and pump (just gunk nothing big), put it back together, same thing.

Removed the impeller thing from the tub and tons of gunk but no obvious issues.

Replacement pumps seem to run $200 and that's if the pump is even the problem. Leaning toward new machine, but figured I'd check here first.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


CubicalSucrose posted:

Whirlpool top-load washing machine like 5-10 years old. Won't drain, just clicks when I try and start it. Followed a bunch of YouTubes to unplug, manually drain, unplugged and cleared the hoses and pump (just gunk nothing big), put it back together, same thing.

Removed the impeller thing from the tub and tons of gunk but no obvious issues.

Replacement pumps seem to run $200 and that's if the pump is even the problem. Leaning toward new machine, but figured I'd check here first.

I'd say new machine.. $200 single shot of the parts cannon that may not fix it is pretty steep when you can get a generic top load for like 550-700. So your'e 1/3 of the cost into a new washer with 1 part.

Mario
Oct 29, 2006
It's-a-me!

CubicalSucrose posted:

Whirlpool top-load washing machine like 5-10 years old. Won't drain, just clicks when I try and start it. Followed a bunch of YouTubes to unplug, manually drain, unplugged and cleared the hoses and pump (just gunk nothing big), put it back together, same thing.

Removed the impeller thing from the tub and tons of gunk but no obvious issues.

Replacement pumps seem to run $200 and that's if the pump is even the problem. Leaning toward new machine, but figured I'd check here first.

There may be a service reference booklet in a little pouch stuck to the inside of the outer shell. If so, it will include diagnostic routines that you can step through to narrow down the issue.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

PainterofCrap posted:

Fish tape is your friend.

Fish tape is also your friend.

Fish tape talk: I got a set of the Milwaukee fish sticks and they are way better than my lovely Klein fish tape. I recommend the ultra flexible rods for most jobs. They saved me from making so many extra holes.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


SpartanIvy posted:

Fish tape talk: I got a set of the Milwaukee fish sticks and they are way better than my lovely Klein fish tape. I recommend the ultra flexible rods for most jobs. They saved me from making so many extra holes.

each has it's own usage.. Rods are very good if you need a straight shot.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

For soffit repair, what kind of contractor do I need? A roofer? General carpenter? Gutter folks?

Cornuto
Jun 26, 2012

For the pack!
Roofing company should be able to handle that.

tminz
Jul 1, 2004

Tezer posted:

If the sump pit was dry when the radon system was installed, there was no issue to observe and no reason to recommend a pump (beyond the general idea that sumps exist to collect water and therefore generally have pumps in them). Why wasn't there a pump already? Was water previously observed in the sump? these are questions for the previous owner not the radon system installer.

Turns out the pitch of the installed system was inadequate and had nothing to do with water table issues. I had someone else come out and fix the piping in about 30 minutes. I sent the bill to the original installer (sump pump guy) after contacting the sellers realtor and he replied immediately saying he would reimburse us for the fix. Sketchy as hell but it's taken care of

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

korora posted:

We have had three ducks for about a year and a half and they're ~10-20 minutes of chores a day, are decently friendly (but definitely not cuddly), and provide 2-3 eggs a day. That said, the advice as I understand it is to never give them water they can get inside (except maybe sometimes as a treat) or else it's a huge mess.

No water to swim in? That sounds depressing as hell for the duck.

Jenkl posted:

It is indeed a ceiling box, the 14/3 is to interconnect smoke alarms from the main floor to the basement.

What I really want is to avoid having to cut near the existing box on the main floor (basement is new one) as its the only spot where I'd need to make a hole that's in an area that's hard to patch and hide.

I think that idea of cutting the box out might work to avoid said patching.

I'll be using the fish tape, and I'll post some pictures if i get a chance.

They do make 10yr sealed wireless interconnect smoke detectors. This wouldn't need anything more then drywall anchors.

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Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

devicenull posted:

They do make 10yr sealed wireless interconnect smoke detectors. This wouldn't need anything more then drywall anchors.

Wireless interconnect isn't to code here, and they don't make wireless strobe ones, also code required. Appreciate the thought though.

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