Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse
For large HDD storage drives, which manufacturers are the standouts, or does it matter- should I just look for longest warranty? I used to get Western Digital back in the day, no idea anymore.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

njsykora
Jan 23, 2012

Robots confuse squirrels.


I usually just get WD or Seagate. Huge drives are cheap now but unless you're building a dedicated server for something I'd probably stick with an external HDD.

CaptainSarcastic
Jul 6, 2013



I've gotten to a point where I just default to WD most of the time.

A few years ago I got burned on a cheap 1TB Seagate HDD that ended up being less cheap when I immediately had to RMA it and pay for shipping for the privilege, so I still carry some bias toward them.

Not that I see myself buying anything other than SSDs in the foreseeable future.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Three companies make hard drives. Western Digital, Seagate, and Toshiba. WD bought Hitachi's drive production unit and had drives released as WD HGST for a while, but I think more and more they're just all WD. Looking at large disks you can shuck externals if you don't care about shorter warranty lengths, like whatever's on sale on https://shucks.top or just buy whatever models had low failure rates in Backblaze's latest quarterly reports.

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

Experts, is there a way to figure out the exact RAM sticks your system is using? I know that I have Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 16 modules. But even at 16 timing, I have a suspicion that there are several variants floating around.

Background is that I want to add memory to my system, and I'd like to have the exact same sticks in there.

Scam Likely
Feb 19, 2021

Check your BIOS? That typically has more detailed info about the RAM and its settings.

kliras
Mar 27, 2021

Listerine posted:

For large HDD storage drives, which manufacturers are the standouts, or does it matter- should I just look for longest warranty? I used to get Western Digital back in the day, no idea anymore.
seagate still seem a little iffy, but their ironwolf drives have a fairly generous warranty. i also had to use third-party software keepalivehd to keep it from being very clicky from the header bouncing around from random reads and resets

wd had a scandal with misrepresenting their drives' specs, but a lot of other companies were basically doing the same thing one way or another

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Lord Stimperor posted:

Experts, is there a way to figure out the exact RAM sticks your system is using? I know that I have Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 16 modules. But even at 16 timing, I have a suspicion that there are several variants floating around.

Background is that I want to add memory to my system, and I'd like to have the exact same sticks in there.
HWInfo or an AIDA64 trial will tell you the modules in use. There are a few different types of LPX modules around. My original 16GB LPX sticks had different timings from anything currently available and had different XMP profiles.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Lord Stimperor posted:

Experts, is there a way to figure out the exact RAM sticks your system is using? I know that I have Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 16 modules. But even at 16 timing, I have a suspicion that there are several variants floating around.

Background is that I want to add memory to my system, and I'd like to have the exact same sticks in there.

You can see what they're running at in the BIOS, or install something like HWiNFO64 and open the sensors window to see what the current settings are. It'll be in the list of stuff somewhere, for me its between the CPU sensors on the board and the CPU sensors on the CPU package and looks like:


edit: beaten, but one thing to note is that DDR is double data rate so the 1800 Megahertz on mine is 3600 Megatransfers which seems to be what the industry is calling it now.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I don't think that's what the OP was asking for, I think they were asking for the actual like technical data on the memory chips. If the latter, cmd wmc memorychip get should give you everything you need.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Maybe, like, physically look at the modules?

Bone Crimes
Mar 7, 2007

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

I don't think that's what the OP was asking for, I think they were asking for the actual like technical data on the memory chips. If the latter, cmd wmc memorychip get should give you everything you need.

huh, never knew about this, pretty cool. I think it's "wmic memorychip" tho.

Canna Happy
Jul 11, 2004
The engine, code A855, has a cast iron closed deck block and split crankcase. It uses an 8.1:1 compression ratio with Mahle cast eutectic aluminum alloy pistons, forged connecting rods with cracked caps and threaded-in 9 mm rod bolts, and a cast high

cpu-z under the spd tab will show you the model number as well.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

If the latter, cmd wmic memorychip get should give you everything you need.

:yosnice:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Bone Crimes posted:

huh, never knew about this, pretty cool. I think it's "wmic memorychip" tho.

You are right!

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

mobby_6kl posted:

Maybe, like, physically look at the modules?

I did! It, very unhelpfully, says "Corsair", and "DDR4" :)




In the BIOS it reports the timings as 16-18-18-36. I can't find Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 with that exact timing. However, upon punching wmic memorychip into the commandline, it returns that I have CMK32GX4M2Z3200C16 chips. When shopping, the items I find under that code correctly state CL16. But the remaining timings are not mentioned, or slightly off (16-20-20-38 instead of 16-18-18-36). Did I maybe set the timing in the BIOS when I activated XMP? Would such a small difference even be noticeable?

Box wine
Apr 6, 2005

ah crap
That set is probably long out of production is why. So you are just getting results for the closest to it.

e: Yup that set is not a thing anymore. If you don't care about the lpx you can probably just grab the rgb equivalent now. If all you do is game you're really not going to see any increase in performance going from 32 to 64 though.

Box wine fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Feb 2, 2023

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

Roumba posted:

Speaking of fans, is there anything else to consider when selecting case fans other than size, bearing type, max rpm/noise and RGB?

Like, is it bad juju to mix brands, speeds or whatever as long as I have them pointing the right way?


Butterfly Valley posted:

For most people the best value option by far is a 5 pack of arctic p12 pwm pst fans for like $30. They perform almost as well as noctuas for a fraction of the price.


DoombatINC posted:

I'd probably avoid mixing fans of different speeds on a daisy-chained PWM header because the header can only accurately detect the RPMs of the first fan in the chain - but even that's a non-problem relatively speaking, maybe a half notch past a cable management faux pas - otherwise for case fans you're pretty safe using whatever you like. If you're mounting fans on a heat sink or radiator you might want to consider fans that favor static pressure over raw airflow, but that's a circumstance where you're trying to force air through an obstacle course as opposed to case fans that are just keeping the air moving relatively unimpeded.


Case fan chat:

I want to steal my wife's GPU cycles at night for buttcoins folding@home but her GPU gets a bit warmer than I'd like it to (probably fine but still) while running full-tilt. Taking the side of the case off fixes it entirely but that is a non-starter for her so it's time to probably up the case fan game a bit (several of the lovely ones that came with the case died).

I'll need to look up the specs of the case and see what sized fans it can accept (I want to say it can do 140mm in most places except the top can accept 200mm iirc). She doesn't care if it's an RGB laser-light show or not, so I'll probably look into those Arctic P12s (well, I guess the 140mm are P14).

So, questions:
1). Looks like the Arctic P-line goes up to 140mm; what should I consider if I want to go for 200mm on the top of the case?
2). Do I need to care about bearing type for horizontal installation or are those Arctic P-line ones the best bearing type anyway?
3). What kind of fan header would be recommended? iirc there's sorta a fan speed controller built into the case but I don't even know if it works; figure I'll just get something that's known to be good if it isn't too expensive.

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!
What case does she have? That would make it easier to give relevant advice on fans and potential layouts.

If you don't know the model, post a pic and we can probably figure it out.

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

grack posted:

What case does she have? That would make it easier to give relevant advice on fans and potential layouts.

If you don't know the model, post a pic and we can probably figure it out.

Ah, good call!

It's this one:
https://www.neweggbusiness.com/product/product.aspx?item=9b-11-119-260

CM Storm Stryker (NOT the SE version)

Edit:
I think it has room for:
• 3 fans up front blowing front-back
• 2 on the side of the HDD bay blowing side-to-side
• 2 on the bottom blowing bottom-top
• 1 on the back blowing front-back
• 1 200mm or 2 140mm (I think) on the top blowing top-bottom


Edit2:
The PSU may be limiting the number of bottom fans to 1; hard to say if I could make it work or not.

Zarin fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Feb 2, 2023

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Zarin posted:

Ah, good call!

It's this one:
https://www.neweggbusiness.com/product/product.aspx?item=9b-11-119-260

CM Storm Stryker (NOT the SE version)

Edit:
I think it has room for:
• 3 fans up front blowing front-back
• 2 on the side of the HDD bay blowing side-to-side
• 2 on the bottom blowing bottom-top
• 1 on the back blowing front-back
• 1 200mm or 2 140mm (I think) on the top blowing top-bottom


Edit2:
The PSU may be limiting the number of bottom fans to 1; hard to say if I could make it work or not.

I don't have specific advice for your case situation other than more fans is going to have better airflow as long as you orient them in directions that makes it flow, but specifically you want to avoid sleeve bearing fans for any horizontally mounted fans. I usually just avoid them all together now since they were kind of old and cheap and died after 5+ years. Ball bearing, fluid bearing, or the magnetic levitation fans are going to be your top choices for anything on a top mount.

The larger fans are going to be the quietest since they can move more air for the size and they have a lower pitch sound. 140 or 200mm are both good choices, but in some cases two 140mm fans will be cheaper than a 200mm. For fan headers you could use a splitter in the case but those generally will split the signals for PWM that make sense for a particular fan speed, so mixing fans would be not optimal for a splitter like that, but you could certainly hook up some fans to the motherboard headers directly.

You don't need to go crazy and fill every fan spot, either, I'd look at adding maybe two in and one out or something (since positive internal air pressure keeps dust from clogging up random gaps in the case, unlike negative internal air pressure). A lot of them are rated for enough CFM of air to replace the air in the case several times a minute.

Inept
Jul 8, 2003


I was looking through the specs on that and god drat that thing weighs 30 pounds

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Lord Stimperor posted:

I did! It, very unhelpfully, says "Corsair", and "DDR4" :)


In the BIOS it reports the timings as 16-18-18-36. I can't find Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 with that exact timing. However, upon punching wmic memorychip into the commandline, it returns that I have CMK32GX4M2Z3200C16 chips. When shopping, the items I find under that code correctly state CL16. But the remaining timings are not mentioned, or slightly off (16-20-20-38 instead of 16-18-18-36). Did I maybe set the timing in the BIOS when I activated XMP? Would such a small difference even be noticeable?
Oh did they stop putting useful information at some point?




Zarin posted:

Case fan chat:

I want to steal my wife's GPU cycles at night for buttcoins folding@home but her GPU gets a bit warmer than I'd like it to (probably fine but still) while running full-tilt. Taking the side of the case off fixes it entirely but that is a non-starter for her so it's time to probably up the case fan game a bit (several of the lovely ones that came with the case died).

I'll need to look up the specs of the case and see what sized fans it can accept (I want to say it can do 140mm in most places except the top can accept 200mm iirc). She doesn't care if it's an RGB laser-light show or not, so I'll probably look into those Arctic P12s (well, I guess the 140mm are P14).

So, questions:
1). Looks like the Arctic P-line goes up to 140mm; what should I consider if I want to go for 200mm on the top of the case?
2). Do I need to care about bearing type for horizontal installation or are those Arctic P-line ones the best bearing type anyway?
3). What kind of fan header would be recommended? iirc there's sorta a fan speed controller built into the case but I don't even know if it works; figure I'll just get something that's known to be good if it isn't too expensive.
Free solution: maybe just lower the GPU power a bit? You'll usually be able to retain most of the performance while cutting down the power significantly.

power crystals
Jun 6, 2007

Who wants a belly rub??

Inept posted:

I was looking through the specs on that and god drat that thing weighs 30 pounds

That's nothing, the box my Tower 900 came in had a "two person lift" sign on it.

(I ignored said sign)

Inept
Jul 8, 2003

power crystals posted:

That's nothing, the box my Tower 900 came in had a "two person lift" sign on it.

(I ignored said sign)

Yeah but did yours come with a handle like you're just swinging that poo poo around one handed

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

mobby_6kl posted:

Oh did they stop putting useful information at some point?



Free solution: maybe just lower the GPU power a bit? You'll usually be able to retain most of the performance while cutting down the power significantly.

Yeah just undervolt the GPU

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse

Inept posted:

I was looking through the specs on that and god drat that thing weighs 30 pounds

I bought the Cooler Master Cosmos II without reading all the specs, since I had the Cosmos I at work and liked it a lot. It weighs almost 49 pounds. On the plus side, no burglar is ever stealing my computer.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007
Hello, I have a question for smart computer people. I want to upgrade the ram in my system. I have a ryzen 5600x cpu, msi b550a pro motherboard and a rtx 3070.

I am aiming for 64gb. I read that my ryzen chip will do best with 4 sticks rather than 2, and 3600mhz. I am planning to get this:
vengeance lpx 4x16

Is there a point to buying 4x16g rather than buying 2 sets of 2x16, which is sightly cheaper?

Generally, is there anything wrong with this choice, or better options?

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.

stoicheian posted:

Generally, is there anything wrong with this choice, or better options?

Do you have any use case for 64gb of RAM?

literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!

Butterfly Valley posted:

Do you have any use case for 64gb of RAM?

Is gaming mostly capped at 32GB currently? Will that remain true into the foreseeable future?

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

Zarin posted:

Ah, good call!

It's this one:
https://www.neweggbusiness.com/product/product.aspx?item=9b-11-119-260

CM Storm Stryker (NOT the SE version)

Edit:
I think it has room for:
• 3 fans up front blowing front-back
• 2 on the side of the HDD bay blowing side-to-side
• 2 on the bottom blowing bottom-top
• 1 on the back blowing front-back
• 1 200mm or 2 140mm (I think) on the top blowing top-bottom


Edit2:
The PSU may be limiting the number of bottom fans to 1; hard to say if I could make it work or not.

-Stick as many fans as you can in the front of the case, blowing front to back. Based on what I've seen on the case, this would involve rotating the drive cages, and would preclude the use of the side intake. Get rid of any drives in those cages/move them somewhere else in the case.
-1 140mm or 120mm in the back, blowing front to back.
-Go back in time and give this case to a 12 year old me.

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

Rexxed posted:

I don't have specific advice for your case situation other than more fans is going to have better airflow as long as you orient them in directions that makes it flow, but specifically you want to avoid sleeve bearing fans for any horizontally mounted fans. I usually just avoid them all together now since they were kind of old and cheap and died after 5+ years. Ball bearing, fluid bearing, or the magnetic levitation fans are going to be your top choices for anything on a top mount.

The larger fans are going to be the quietest since they can move more air for the size and they have a lower pitch sound. 140 or 200mm are both good choices, but in some cases two 140mm fans will be cheaper than a 200mm. For fan headers you could use a splitter in the case but those generally will split the signals for PWM that make sense for a particular fan speed, so mixing fans would be not optimal for a splitter like that, but you could certainly hook up some fans to the motherboard headers directly.

You don't need to go crazy and fill every fan spot, either, I'd look at adding maybe two in and one out or something (since positive internal air pressure keeps dust from clogging up random gaps in the case, unlike negative internal air pressure). A lot of them are rated for enough CFM of air to replace the air in the case several times a minute.

No sleeves, everything else is probably fine, got it! Yeah, part of the reason this needs to be done is that I've never given a drat about what fans were in a case and just used what it came with; a bunch of the ones that came with this case have seized up and NEED replaced. I may just remove all the rest while I'm at it and replace them.

A lot of my early builds were negative pressure, which in hindsight was terrible, yeah. I'm guessing based on dust collection that the ones that have failed have led to a negative pressure situation as well.

On one hand, it'd be nice to use a bigger/slower 200mm fan where it fits; on the other, using all one size in a case makes it stupid easy to have n fans blowing out and n+1 fans blowing in. Set 'em all to the same header and just adjust speed as needed.

Speaking of, still need to figure out what type of PWM controller thingy I want is . . .



Inept posted:

I was looking through the specs on that and god drat that thing weighs 30 pounds

Hah, yeah. We move our computers approximately never so I didn't even look at the weight when I bought it. Now that you mention it, though, they don't wobble much even when a cat takes a flying leap to perch on it . . .



mobby_6kl posted:

Free solution: maybe just lower the GPU power a bit? You'll usually be able to retain most of the performance while cutting down the power significantly.

Good idea, hadn't thought of that! New fans are badly needed anyway, given how many have failed, but I'll check into this as well. Thanks!

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

Butterfly Valley posted:

Do you have any use case for 64gb of RAM?

I want big number

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007

Butterfly Valley posted:

Do you have any use case for 64gb of RAM?

My neighbor has 64 and my wife says we have to have the same. Alternatively I'm starting a YouTube channel starring my toddler.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

literally this big posted:

Is gaming mostly capped at 32GB currently? Will that remain true into the foreseeable future?

Gaming mostly doesn't scale beyond 16GB currently. 32GB is honestly overkill and is only common because there's nothing between it and 16 (without getting a weird 3x8 setup). 64GB is completely pointless unless you're specifically doing something memory-heavy with your computer.

Inept posted:

I was looking through the specs on that and god drat that thing weighs 30 pounds

The Lancool III weighs 36 pounds according to Amazon. I like the functionality and performance of the case a whole lot, but man, is it loving heavy. I feel like I'm going to throw out my back moving my computer one of these days.

Negative_Kittens
Apr 8, 2008

[ASK] me about multiple personality disorders

Zarin posted:

A lot of my early builds were negative pressure, which in hindsight was terrible, yeah. I'm guessing based on dust collection that the ones that have failed have led to a negative pressure situation as well.
I think you can get the best of both worlds re: case pressure

My PC (2 front fans, 1 rear exhaust fan, a 240 rad on top in a Meshify C) is set up with fan curves so that it is positive pressure at idle, and negative pressure while gaming. Basically the front fans have a fairly high but still inaudible rpm at lower temperatures, while the rad fans are at very low rpm, making a positive pressure setup. I keep the PC on all the time, so this prevents dust build up when I'm not using it. When I game, the fans rpms reverse, so the front fans are a slightly lower rpm and the rad kicks in fast at a higher rpm. My reasoning is the air needs to exit the case faster when there's a load, so heat doesn't build in the case. Sure, it means more dust when I'm gaming, but that's only a couple hours a day.

I dunno who else this would apply to, or even if case pressure matters that much (I've heard arguments both in favor and against), but I thought I'd share my solution.

literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Gaming mostly doesn't scale beyond 16GB currently. 32GB is honestly overkill and is only common because there's nothing between it and 16 (without getting a weird 3x8 setup). 64GB is completely pointless unless you're specifically doing something memory-heavy with your computer.

Would it help much with image editing, video editing, and exporting?

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse
I can't get either the USB4 type C on the rear of the motherboard or the USB3.1 Type C on the front plate of the case to work. I got the front port to work once, by rebooting my computer with an external drive already attached, but never got it to happen again.

Is there something I specific should be doing with new USB hardware? This is my first time building with these generations of device. My windows 11 update is current, I did a BIOS flash when I first put the computer together to the current stable build from Asrock, and I've installed updated drivers from their website as well.

Box wine
Apr 6, 2005

ah crap

literally this big posted:

Would it help much with image editing, video editing, and exporting?

For 99% of editors no. You gotta be working with like 8k video and stupidly large files in photoshop to see a benefit for 64.

literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!

Box wine posted:

For 99% of editors no. You gotta be working with like 8k video and stupidly large files in photoshop to see a benefit for 64.

Gotcha, so 32GB would really be enough for the foreseeable future.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

mp5
Jan 1, 2005

Stroke of luck!

What country are you in? USA
Do you live near Microcenter? Yes
What are you using the system for? Gaming, sometimes with a Bluestacks emulator. No VR. My current 5-year-old machine is starting to have trouble running Youtube/Twitch and modern games at the same time.
What's your budget? Around $1500-2000 would be ideal, I know the current list goes over that.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? 2 27-inch monitors @ 1440p 144Hz

With the AMD 7800X3D release date being pushed to April, I'm not really interested in waiting further to build a new machine, but I'd like to use AM5 so that I can upgrade the processor later if I really want to.

My general concern is I might be spending too much money for what I want to do, so I'm looking for suggestions to trim things down, but specifically I have two points of uncertainty:
1. The benchmark reviews from Gamers Nexus suggest the 4070ti isn't a good value for the money. What video card should I be looking at as an upgrade from an RTX 2070? I would prefer AMD, but it's not required. (I managed to get my 2070 right before video card prices got Really hosed Up by crypto, so I'm not sure what the new normal really is)
2. How many case fans do I really need? I've never had a case that required me to buy my own before, or even used an AIO cooler like this.

(Note I only have an HDD listed here; I already have two NVME SSDs I will be using for boot and games)

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($244.19 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 56.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B650E-F GAMING WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($136.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital WD_BLACK 4 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GAMING X TRIO Radeon RX 6950 XT 16 GB Video Card ($819.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Lian Li PC-O11DX 011 Dynamic Black ($165 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair HX1000 Platinum 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($254.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Lian Li UNI FAN SL V2 64.5 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack ($142.00 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Lian Li UNI FAN SL V2 64.5 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack ($142.00 @ Amazon)
Total: ~ $2335.27

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply