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Sagebrush posted:Oooh PrusaSlicer also does branching supports for the SLA mode now. Obviously it won't change the print time, but it looks like it might use a little less material and/or be easier to remove and/or have less model contact. And there's built-in export to .pwmx files for Photons Mono X. I wonder if it also does .pwmo? From that picture, it looks like it only uses a couple less contact points. Eyeballing it, it looks like there is much less build plate contact for the base supports. Seems like it might be kind of gimmicky to me.
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Feb 2, 2023 02:48
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| # ? May 29, 2024 17:47 |
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Javid posted:looking forward to your print of that thin rear end car shell on a 47 month old cura build, if you're really sure about that I found a copy of cura 3.2.1 does a bunch of awkward stuff like try to install Arduino IDE Tree support on Prusa takes like 12-20 seconds to generate the gcode and calculate tree support even on a 5 year old Ultrabook Intel CPU I got bored waiting for cura to calculate tree mode, using the mouse as a bookmark to ensure it hasn't totally frozen. This is on my much more modern i7 too Will check back in an hour or so 
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Feb 2, 2023 02:49
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  Print time is actually 4 hours shorter on Cura with the cradle tree support, probably because it's one giant monobloc Looks like a real nightmare to pull apart though This last one reminds me of westworld for some reason, can't put my finger on why though  I have the gcode rendered for a CR10 (e3v2 isn't in any database that old) if anyone is morbidly curious
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Feb 2, 2023 04:11
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Bondematt posted:Replaced the board and apparently the SKR E3 Mini V2 has Mini USB so I needed a new cable anyway. Weird to see that is still a thing. Whelp it did it again, about an hour into the print. Case temp never got above like 40C, so doubt it's a heat issue. I realized with a write error this could actually be the SD Card, so gonna install on brand new Sandisk SD cards. If that doesn't do it, then power supply.
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Feb 2, 2023 04:37
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insta posted:Don't forget that Bambu just put out a technical bulletin on fixing sticky/jammed axises. It involves cleaning the rods, which are gunked up ... from printing ABS. Do you have a URL for this? I can't seem to apply the right Google-fu to find it.
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Feb 2, 2023 05:33
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snail posted:Do you have a URL for this? I can't seem to apply the right Google-fu to find it. I'm guessing it's this.
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Feb 2, 2023 06:26
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Bondematt posted:Whelp it did it again, about an hour into the print. Case temp never got above like 40C, so doubt it's a heat issue. And I was here this time for it, it's the power. This time not only did the printer shutdown, the Pi did as well.
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Feb 2, 2023 09:01
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well this is new and exciting: starts about 1/2 way down, maonly towards the front of the build plate but also on the prints to the rear, just a bit less intense.
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Feb 2, 2023 19:12
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queeb posted:well this is new and exciting: My bets something with the leadscrew Cant remember what mainenance is on it, but probably either a debris/lube issue,or the screw is misaligned vertically and binding
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Feb 2, 2023 19:15
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I'll raise the plate all the way to the top and wipe it down and then re-lubricate the whole thing and give that a test, probably the easiest start, doing anything with the eccentric nut looks like a pain
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Feb 2, 2023 19:19
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Tree supports getting a bit, uh, ambitious there. The right most tree (grass blade?) failed about halfway up and ended up with some weird layer patterns as it was dragging some extra filament around for about 25% of the print. It comes out of a tiny hole in the base and then weaves around to support the top of a ~M3 hole
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Feb 2, 2023 21:03
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Hadlock posted:Tree supports getting a bit, uh, ambitious there. but yeah, that's an awkward shape for it to take
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Feb 2, 2023 22:29
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Be careful screwing around too much with those supports, you don't want them to become sentient.
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Feb 2, 2023 22:43
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So it looks like my 80W UV panel is a bit overpowered for final curing. Gonna pick up a wash & cure this weekend, but lol. Didn't take long for the clear resin to turn brown and even crack.
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Feb 2, 2023 23:01
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Ok, tried a good rod lube and still getting those weird lines in the same spots on my resin print, on to the next thing
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Feb 3, 2023 02:06
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queeb posted:Ok, tried a good rod lube and still getting those weird lines new thread title here
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Feb 3, 2023 02:22
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queeb posted:Ok, tried a good rod lube and still getting those weird lines in the same spots on my resin print, on to the next thing Have you spent time watching the printer to see if you notice anything out of the ordinary during the time it is making those lines? It would be boring and time consuming, but the solution might be obvious if you can see it while it is failing.
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Feb 3, 2023 02:22
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Just sent something to my printer via lan, feels like the future.
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Feb 3, 2023 02:32
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queeb posted:Ok, tried a good rod lube and still getting those weird lines in the same spots New thread title Anything would be better than the garbage we have right now
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Feb 3, 2023 06:48
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queeb posted:Ok, tried a good rod lube and still getting those weird lines in the same spots on my resin print, on to the next thing I feel like it's an issue with the axis not being aligned then(drunk and probably wrong) I had this same issue on my ender and it was due to the thread slowly adding resistance every x layers. Aligned things properly so that the rotwas perfectly vertical fixed the issue. Depending on the age of the printer, probably worth contacting the manufacturer as well.
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Feb 3, 2023 07:14
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Sockser posted:lol you mean "gently caress usb-c thumb drives" I dunno if it's different for you but I fully embraced USB-C because of my job in security; I have so many USB adapters to fit any laptop including ones that totally have kicked normal USB to the curb. I need to get my payloads installed to show how bad a company's computer policy is! quote:Having Spaghetti Detective or ... the other one that my friends use  I am working on this btw. I found a hint on their Marlin firmware GitHub but to set up the environment is a bitch and a half.Spaghetti Detector would literally be 1) take pic 1. assume that's the normal 2) take pic 2. is there a big giant cloud ??? y/n/sex? quote:2. Honestly I don't even care, I just want to actually be able to see what's printing. I can't tell if the print is failing until well after it starts to fail because the camera is absolute dogshit being mounted the way it is I use a virtual android environment to just run the app Ankermake app inside and pull the camera feed. Why couldnt it be as easy as with Anker's Eufy security cameras where they broadcast unencrypted video to the world that you can just open in VLC and just watch?!  Vulnerability found in November and last year and just only last week Anker said something about it quote:Also since you're the other Anker-haver in this thread Okay, loving brace. I am having zero issues with the textured sheet. No slippage or anything and I have printed PLA, textured PLA, PETG, and TPU. loving TPU!! That stuff you linked I used on my Prusa and my Makerfarm and those PEI bedsheet would crack open revealing the metal underneath making me adjust my slicers to avoid that area . The other issue is I would get horrible first layers unless I key the temps in exactly for each filament brand / type. I was actually sad when Prusa MK3 ran out of the textured sheets when they first released that model because I wanted to get away from PEI so badly. Here is my advice with Anker. 1. If you edited your x,y,z steps/mm or your E steps from the app. Reset them back. 1 2. PrusaSlicer Alpha or PrusaSlicer/ Cura with those profiles I linked before make everything perfect with those reset values for steps/mm 3. Slice with Cura/PrusaSlicer 4. Load in the gcode with Ankermake I'm sorry about my full gripe with the PEI but I sliced my hand open because the flat blade I used (which I no longer or will ever use) hit one of those microcracks and careened off into the soft muscle tissue of my palm. 1 To get access to manipulating these values, if you didn't know, is to go into the mobile app, select the gear icon for the printer, select "About Device" and in there press and hold on the version number. Hold it down for 5-10 seconds and "advanced parameters (beta)" will appear on the bottom. It does not unlock a new setting elsewhere, those words are the thing you click EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Feb 3, 2023 |
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Feb 3, 2023 21:10
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EVIL Gibson posted:I dunno if it's different for you but I fully embraced USB-C because of my job in security; I have so many USB adapters to fit any laptop including ones that totally have kicked normal USB to the curb. I need to get my payloads installed to show how bad a company's computer policy is! Not exactly a thing I am frequently in the market for. I should probably get some more dongles. quote:Spaghetti Detector would literally be 1) take pic 1. assume that's the normal 2) take pic 2. is there a big giant cloud ??? y/n/sex?  quote:I use a virtual android environment to just run the app Ankermake app inside and pull the camera feed. quote:<textured build plate stuff> I hate using the textured sheet on my Prusas for PLA as well. I only bust those out when I'm doing PETG or something similar. I think a big part of the problem with the ankermake is how loving badly this hot end oozes all the god damned time. Not just a tiny blob on the nozzle but you'd think it was idly extruding all the time Doing a home with filament loaded gives me a nice grid of dots across my build plate that I need to scrape off quote:Here is my advice with Anker. It's ... weird. If I home it and then go through the trouble of running through [url=https://www.printables.com/model/25261-first-layer-calibration-test]the best drat z offset calibration print[/quote] several times, I can get 2-3 perfect prints out of it. And then one will fail, and I'll get nothing but failures over and over until I rehome and reset the z offset. It seems like maybe the QA on these is a little hosed. The subreddit for the ankermake is like, 50/50 "wow look at this gorgeous print that took a full day even on this insanely fast printer" and "this thing is a piece of poo poo and I literally dumpstered it because of x,y,z problems"
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Feb 3, 2023 21:29
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Sockser posted:I've mostly switched over, but have never seen a thumb drive. Then again, my primary thumb drive I bought for a college class in ... 2011? I like these drives, which have both a USB-C and USB-A connector on them, and they don't have any fiddly mechanical toggle or slider on them.
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Feb 3, 2023 22:14
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+1 for the dual drives. Got one when my wife was stuck with one of the Macs with no USB-A for work, using a dongle was a pain every time we wanted to use our Mini+ and it’s a great solution for that
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Feb 3, 2023 23:56
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So how much of a beating do folks let their FEP take? Mine has already started to show some shallow marks, but nothing sharp at all, and nothing close to a tear. More like ripples (had a couple of pieces come off the bed mid-print) vaguely shaped like the outline of a previous print. If I had to guess, they are less than .05mm deep, especially when the vat is secured.
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Feb 3, 2023 23:57
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Sorry are you talking about a specific PEI sheet or in general? Because I seriously doubted this thread about bed material mattering much, having only used glass ever (first on a ultimaker 2 ten years ago, more recently on my ender 3). I bought the goon recommended dual sided sheet and it's been life changing. I'm printing abs now with no warping, it sticks like glue while hot and pops right off cold. TPU hasn't given me any trouble either.
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Feb 4, 2023 00:48
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Double sided PEI here and gently caress PETG. Everything else sticks like a dream ABS/TPU/PLA, PETG either sticks so well I feel like the PEI is gonna come with it, or the print fails. No in-between.
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Feb 4, 2023 01:13
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Bondematt posted:Double sided PEI here and gently caress PETG. This is the experience I had. Ruined at least three surfaces because of PETG. I never get that from using textured. I can feel trying to stick with all it's strength, but nothing yet.
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Feb 4, 2023 01:27
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EVIL Gibson posted:This is the experience I had. Ruined at least three surfaces because of PETG. I never get that from using textured. I can feel trying to stick with all it's strength, but nothing yet. I had great luck with glue stick on smooth PEI, but I also had better luck with glue stick on glass. Textured and PETG has rarely given me a good print.
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Feb 4, 2023 01:30
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NomNomNom posted:Sorry are you talking about a specific PEI sheet or in general? FEP is the film on the bottom of the vat in a resin printer
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Feb 4, 2023 01:34
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Bondematt posted:I had great luck with glue stick on smooth PEI, but I also had better luck with glue stick on glass. It was the absolute reverse for me. I stopped using gluestick because I thought that was the problem but nope, PEI and PETG have a deep and intimate relationship with each other  I have tried the lightning infill in PrusaSlicer and that poo poo is wild  
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Feb 4, 2023 03:19
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I’m glad I’m not the only one having PETG issues. I got my first printer, an Ender 3 S1, a couple of weeks ago, plus some Inland filament from Micro Center. The PLA and PLA+ have been fine, but the PETG+ is kind of driving me nuts. It seems like there’s no real consistency - sometimes the first layer goes down more or less fine, then the rest will work ok. But more often than not, it’ll either blob up and tear up the layer, or it’ll put down the tiniest strings that don’t stick. I’ve got a couple of things I was hoping to print with it, but I may have to give it up for now. I’ve got the high flow kit on order, maybe that will help a bit when it gets here.
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Feb 4, 2023 08:12
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TVs Ian posted:I’m glad I’m not the only one having PETG issues. I got my first printer, an Ender 3 S1, a couple of weeks ago, plus some Inland filament from Micro Center. The PLA and PLA+ have been fine, but the PETG+ is kind of driving me nuts. PETG has a lot.. of.. things.. going on. First, there's its propencity for absorbing moisture, and that causes under extrustion, or surface artifacts, spitting.. all kinds of things. Then it's ~sticky~, it wants to stick to itself more than anything else. It sticks ~so well~ to glass it can spall the glass. It sticks FAR to well to polycarbonate build surfaces. It chars and drops dark blobs into prints. Oh, and it strings. I'm saying, if you're having trouble with PETG, you're having the usual experience. You.. can.. get good prints from PETG. IMHO it's the trickiest of the "normal" filaments.
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Feb 4, 2023 11:03
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I'm having better luck printing with ABS, so I'm kinda like "why?" to petg. Does it have any advantages?
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Feb 4, 2023 13:32
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NomNomNom posted:I'm having better luck printing with ABS, so I'm kinda like "why?" to petg. Does it have any advantages? It doesn’t stink. I can print petg perfectly, but my illegal mosquito knockoff jams with PLA like crazy. I think I need to cut a vent hole in the carriage to improve airflow.
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Feb 4, 2023 15:15
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Ordered the PIF parts for a Voron Trident (LDO) 300 build. Going Rapido for the hot end, will be ordering the actual kit "soon". Still deciding between building stock first, or doing mods to start. Stock is easier to troubleshoot any day 1 issues, but I know I want to do TAP, CANbus, umbilical mods soon.
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Feb 4, 2023 15:30
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I think Nerobro is exaggerating the difficulty of PETG. Nobody has a polycarbonate build plate, the adhesion is easily addressable, and it doesn't burn and drop stuff on your part unless your machine is hosed up, lol. The advantages of PETG are that it's nearly as tough and heat-resistant as ABS (though somewhat more flexible, which could be good or bad), but it doesn't warp and peel off the bed like ABS, and it is mostly odorless. It is also the most transparent filament if that's something you need, and it's fully recyclable, unlike PLA or ABS. All of the printed parts of Prusa machines are done in PETG. You solve the problem of it over-adhering to your bed by using an interface layer of glue stick on every print, and you solve the problem of it building up on your nozzle by calibrating your extrusion properly. That only leaves the stringiness and frankly I don't I think that's an actual problem. PETG is good.
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Feb 4, 2023 15:32
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Sagebrush posted:, and it's fully recyclable, unlike PLA or ABS. quote:All of the printed parts of Prusa machines are done in PETG.
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Feb 4, 2023 16:10
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ilkhan posted:Ordered the PIF parts for a Voron Trident (LDO) 300 build. Going Rapido for the hot end, will be ordering the actual kit "soon". As someone who does the help tickets for Voron, please god build it stock first except at most canbus and umbilical.
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Feb 4, 2023 16:44
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| # ? May 29, 2024 17:47 |
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I think PETG is probably just one of those things you have trouble with or you don’t. For me, no amount of tinkering gets PETG right, but I effortlessly print with polycarbonate with excellent results. I’m thinking about swapping in for BASF Ultrafuse Pro1 PLA as opposed to PC as my default material, and might start recommending it more to newbies doing mechanical parts as well: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/basf-pro1-pla-filament
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Feb 4, 2023 17:49
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