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I have a bit of what I think is poplar heart wood. Picture frame is my current best idea for it.
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Feb 18, 2023 04:35
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e: nvm
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Feb 18, 2023 07:21
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:So when you suggest peening the ends, are you imagining that the wood would have a hole all the way through it? And it's basically a decorative bead on the metal rod? Just trying to make sure I understand the suggestion. Make a doweling jig and make the appropriate length of dowel instead of trying to use your drill as a lathe.
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Feb 18, 2023 07:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:So when you suggest peening the ends, are you imagining that the wood would have a hole all the way through it? And it's basically a decorative bead on the metal rod? Just trying to make sure I understand the suggestion. Ah. You had said you want stops on each end of the rod, and I interpreted that to mean that the rod would have stops preventing the wooden rings from slipping off. Instead I think what you mean is that you want the rod to go partway through each wooden bit, but not emerge from the other side. That's easy enough, just drill a hole partway through the wood and jam the end of the rod in the hole. However it sounds like you're also saying you want to round off your not-round bits of wood after the rod is inserted, and then also be able to remove the rod? And I'm not clear on why. Do you have a sketch or drawing of your finished thing? You said you were making a hinge... Calidus posted:I have a bit of what I think is poplar heart wood. Picture frame is my current best idea for it. I think that's lovely but do be aware that once poplar's color is exposed to the air, it will gradually change color over time. There's not really a way to stop that. If you're sanguine about accepting the evolution of your project into whatever it will become, that's cool, though!
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Feb 18, 2023 07:40
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Leperflesh posted:
Is this true even if you oil finish it?
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Feb 18, 2023 14:12
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Calidus posted:Is this true even if you oil finish it? Yes, poplar won't hold that color even if you seal it real good. Usually turns various shades of brown.
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Feb 18, 2023 14:49
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I now feel less bad about painting poplar for my cat box project
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Feb 18, 2023 16:18
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Calidus posted:I now feel less bad about painting poplar for my cat box project Poplar is the go-to choice for projects that you want to paint. It's inexpensive, easy to work, and doesn't have the sap problems of pine.
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Feb 18, 2023 16:22
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I quite like the colors in poplar and am fine with clear coating it, I just accept that it will look different in a year. It's also basically the cheapest hardwood and it's domestic and sustainable so using it for painted projects is okey dokey for me too. I mean you can do what you want with any wood but I admit I wince a little when people stain or paint over walnut or cherry or maple.
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Feb 18, 2023 17:00
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Leperflesh posted:Ah. You had said you want stops on each end of the rod, and I interpreted that to mean that the rod would have stops preventing the wooden rings from slipping off. Instead I think what you mean is that you want the rod to go partway through each wooden bit, but not emerge from the other side. That's easy enough, just drill a hole partway through the wood and jam the end of the rod in the hole. However it sounds like you're also saying you want to round off your not-round bits of wood after the rod is inserted, and then also be able to remove the rod? And I'm not clear on why. Yeah, it's pretty clear at this point that I did a bad job of communicating what I'm trying to achieve. Here's a dry fit of half of the stand:  There's another triangle just like this one. The two will be connected by two horizontal cross-pieces, which will then support my tablet. There's two hinges in this shot: one that connects the front of the stand to the base (at the bottom), and one that connects it to the backing / third leg of the triangle. Then where the backing and the base meet, the plan is to have a long metal rod. That rod will slot into a notch on the base; by having multiple notches, I can adjust the angles of the triangle. In this shot, the metal rods in the hinges aren't held in place by anything. I want to cover them with a bit of wood. The trick has been making something that's square and symmetrical to the rod. That said, I think I may have figured out an approach that will work: 1. Make a bit of square stock (e.g. 1"x1"x2") 2. Drill a hole as close to the middle of the square stock as possible 3. Insert metal rod into hole. Apply epoxy to the exposed metal where it touches the wood 4. Chuck rod into drill, use as ad-hoc lathe to round out the wood 5. Cut the wood where it's epoxied to the rod 6. Knock the epoxied-on wood off with a screwdriver, clean the rod, repeat It'll be kind of tedious, since I need to make 10 of these (2 per hinge @ 4 hinges, plus 2 for the long rod), but it should work. The sticking point now is that I can't find my epoxy anywhere, so I'm gonna have to make a run to the hardware store.
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Feb 18, 2023 20:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:
Thanks, the celtic knot is all done while the blank is still square. It's a series of four glue-ups, you cut the blank and glue in one piece, let it dry, then cut it again and glue in another and then repeat a couple more times, then turn it on the lathe.
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Feb 18, 2023 20:20
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first time in the shop on one of my own projects in a while. Made two lighter-weight trestle sawhorses to hold up my grow lights. The idea was to make them before I had to go to the gym (which is like now) so it was fun figuring out how to get the result I wanted - somewhere between "fine" and "it's fine" woodworking. Maybe we can call it "rough traditional"? A mix of band saw and chisel work. Once I get the lights set up (need the glue to set first) I'll try to remember to post a picture. e. the actual point of the post is I had fun and made a custom thing that I wanted.
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Feb 18, 2023 20:31
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I’ve been putting in a lot of time after work and stuff this week. Lots of little pieces finally getting put into place. Got both sides flushed up and notched into the legs.  Crossbars trimmed and glued into place  Tossed a few boards on top. It’ll be 4 planks wide with some smaller filler chunks inbetween the clamping area. Just clamped the boards in place so I could visualize where this uncharted project is headed.  I’ll be able to clamp the boards across a few of the crossbraces that’ll be accessible.  Also just a place to set the drill down without the chance of sending it flying. 
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Feb 19, 2023 02:28
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Calidus posted:Is this true even if you oil finish it? It'll keep the smoky texture, which imo is nice enough in its own right on that piece, but the colors will change no matter what you do
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Feb 19, 2023 05:47
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Put the finishing touches on a pair of wall cabinets today, I've been letting the finish cure for a couple weeks so I buffed them with steel wool and mounted the hardware today. One is walnut and the other cherry, the front door panels are roble burl. I went dark for the interior of the walnut cabinet and lighter for the cherry interior.   
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Feb 19, 2023 06:25
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jesus
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Feb 19, 2023 06:27
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Finished a few turning projects to get rid of some shorter 8/4 stock I had. I made a bunch of French rolling pins, most with Celtic knots in them. The darker pins are mahogany and the lighter two are cherry. The Celtic knot wood is maple.
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Feb 19, 2023 06:42
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Put the finishing touches on a pair of wall cabinets today, I've been letting the finish cure for a couple weeks so I buffed them with steel wool and mounted the hardware today. One is walnut and the other cherry, the front door panels are roble burl. Can’t ignore that Greatful Dead skull in the walnut. 
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Feb 19, 2023 13:34
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Arsenic Lupin posted:drat. Are you selling those, or are they for personal pleasure? The French rolling pins I'm familiar with are straight end-to-end, not tapered. I don't actively sell, but if somebody wants something I will. These will eventually be given away for birthdays as they come up.
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Feb 19, 2023 14:28
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Put the finishing touches on a pair of wall cabinets today, I've been letting the finish cure for a couple weeks so I buffed them with steel wool and mounted the hardware today. One is walnut and the other cherry, the front door panels are roble burl. I went dark for the interior of the walnut cabinet and lighter for the cherry interior. Entirely too nice for this thread, well done. How did you mount it?
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Feb 19, 2023 14:36
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CommonShore posted:jesus
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Feb 19, 2023 20:22
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Wow. Trying to say something other than all of our jaws hitting the floor: can you talk about how you designed and made the moulding at the top?
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Feb 20, 2023 00:22
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Bob Mundon posted:Entirely too nice for this thread, well done. Thanks, its mounted via French cleat made from 1/4" plywood. ColdPie posted:Wow. Trying to say something other than all of our jaws hitting the floor: can you talk about how you designed and made the moulding at the top? Thanks. I really wish I could take credit for the design and form of the overall piece, but all the credit goes to a woodworker named Garrett Hack. These cabinets are largely based on one he did for Fine Woodworking a number of years ago, he even has a set of videos on the construction. It just worked out that my wife wanted a wall cabinet, I had just watched the videos and I had just enough cherry and walnut to build the cabinets. I do think the molding is what elevates this cabinet from a basic one to a really nice one. On the subject of design I find I'm at about 50/50 these days designing my own things vs using someone else's design or modifying it. I've found that my best work is done when using someone else's design, in terms of myself and others liking the finished product. Maybe one day I'll get to the point where my own designs turn out as nice, I'll just have to keep trying at it. The molding itself is a 1" radius cove, with a 1/8" bead at the bottom and finished with some walnut/cherry banding. I don't have a 1" radius cove bit, so I used a 1/4" radius cove in my router table and nibbled away to make the general shape, then shaped it with a card scraper and sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. The bead was done by hand with a scratch stock, the scratch stock cutter was a piece of an old bandsaw blade. The cherry/walnut banding was some extra banding I had made for a coffee table last year, glad I made extra and kept it around. Here is the big reveal for where one of the cabinets will live:  Talk about my best shitpost, it's where my wife had requested a cabinet, but upon seeing the finished product she wants it somewhere else.
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Feb 20, 2023 02:57
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I think this detail on the corner:  is subtle but super classy. The moulding is very nice and grabs the eye but little details like how this chamfer runs up the corner but then stops with a very tidy little angled transition I think show that every part of the cabinet has been made to a super high level of quality.
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Feb 20, 2023 04:28
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thanks, its mounted via French cleat made from 1/4" plywood. Mind taking a picture? Been interested in hidden French cleats for that stuff but can't find pics for how to pull it off.
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Feb 20, 2023 05:44
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When I post before Meow it’s like Gimli and Legolas hanging out. I’ve got this bulky utility to the things I need like a dwarf and then there’s just this elegance in execution immediately after  I built some plywood sides that’ll eventually be some storage for levels and things I use occasionally but are annoying to store elsewhere. Maybe some most-used clamp storage off the end posts.  Yay, I built a kayak fort  The table is getting a tapered end and the Sawstop router table moved over to it and deleted off my smaller bench. It’ll be 9’ away from the table saw end so I shouldn’t have to remove the fence very often. Roughly framing it out to do later:  The table makes one loud “thud” when I pick it up on an end and drop it. It’s been more about the journey but can’t help but feel I’ll love having this available for projects.
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Feb 20, 2023 14:53
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Sockington posted:When I post before Meow it’s like Gimli and Legolas hanging out. I’ve got this bulky utility to the things I need like a dwarf and then there’s just this elegance in execution immediately after It really is pretty wonderful that the thread has, in between the folks wandering in looking for hairpin legs and butcher block, such fine artistry, and also this one character who decided to build a skyscraper foundation out of white oak and 3/4 ply.
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Feb 20, 2023 15:14
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Hi thread. It's been a while I am deep in preparing to have my garage dual purpose as a workshop. I've got proof of concept down. I have mounted most everything on wheels, so I can pack it all into the third car bay and still get 2 cars in the main section, then spread out when the cars aren't there and it's time to work. I have also made a table using some lumber and discarded cabinets for the CNC I am building ( and fully stalled on, I need to get all my stuff sorted first).  One of the outstanding projects I knocked (mostly) off the list was a kitchen island with 4x4 spalted maple legs and 1" hard maple apron and 12" wide 1" hard maple shelf. I say "mostly" because I think it needs more spalted to make the two blend together, so I'm going to add two drawers with the drawer front frame in spalted and the center in regular maple.  But that's not why I'm here. I'm clearing stuff out and I bought a lot of antique wood carving tools last year and I'll never use them. It's a lot of work to determine size and age and value, so I just want to sell it all as a lot. There are Pieces from SJ Addis, very old Buck Brothers, Miller's Falls, J. Klinowsky, F Deters & Co, and some just labeled "Germany" or unlabeled. There's like a dozen of them, does anyone want them? Just the SJ Addis ones look to sell for $25-50 on ebay, but I don't want to onsie-twosie it. All for $60 shipped. I can put on SA Mart if that's the right thing to do, I don't sell stuff often. Edit: Multiple users want already. SOLD Album of pics: https://imgur.com/a/tOetYZj Edit: There's 22 of them. I see there's a new for sale thread here, I'll get a pic with my username. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Feb 20, 2023 |
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Feb 20, 2023 17:13
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Bob Mundon posted:Mind taking a picture? Been interested in hidden French cleats for that stuff but can't find pics for how to pull it off. Here you go. The back is 1/4" plywood and slides into a groove in the sides and top from the bottom. The groove is inset from the back 1/4" (the thickness of the french cleat). Then the french cleat is glued onto the back. 
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Feb 21, 2023 02:18
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I'd be concerned about a coat rack coming off of a French cleat when it is unevenly loaded (one heavy coat on one end and no other coats on it) and someone pulls a coat off of it. You could get around this by having one long screw in one of the hooks holding the hook rack to the cleat. I debated asking this here or in the tools thread. I have a Hitachi (right before the Metabo merger) 12" sliding miter saw. I feel like I get better cut quality and better angular accuracy with my table saw and crosscut and miter sleds. Has anyone ever ditched their miter saw in favor of a second table saw with a sled on it all the time? If so, what are the downsides? I feel like a miter saw and a table saw with one wing or possibly no wings would take up less space in the garage and offer better cuts. Maybe I'm missing something. The dust collection from a table saw would pretty much have to be better than (edit) with a miter saw. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Feb 21, 2023 |
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Feb 21, 2023 17:14
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You can make an accurate compound miter cut on the end of a 20' 2x4 with a miter saw but doing that with a crosscut sled is basically impossible. With a table saw you can only miter in one axis at a time, whereas a miter saw can give you a compound miter cut in one cut. My miter saw has very simple dust collection, my table saw does not. A good miter saw costs like a quarter of the price of a good cabinet table saw. A miter saw, used correctly, does not have a kickback risk. A table saw, used correctly, can have its kickback risk mitigated... but most of us have occasionally experienced kickback because we didn't follow best practices for this one quick cut. They're different tools but there's a set of jobs for which they overlap and if you only ever do those jobs, it's totally legit to just have one tool instead of both. I don't think I'd ever want two table saws in my shop but I'm severely compromised for space, if you have enough space and the budget for multiple table saws, I don't see a problem with dedicating one saw for a kind of cut you do a lot. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Feb 21, 2023 |
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Feb 21, 2023 18:11
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PBCrunch posted:I'd be concerned about a coat rack coming off of a French cleat when it is unevenly loaded (one heavy coat on one end and no other coats on it) and someone pulls a coat off of it. You could get around this by having one long screw in one of the hooks holding the hook rack to the cleat. you could probably get by that way if you had an infinite shopfloor but only were only allowed one tool, but doing crosscuts on boards longer than a foot or two is way more awkward on a table saw, and a table saw capable of doing them decently at all takes up 10x the space. just get a roller stand that breaks down and goes away when you're not using the miter saw, my saw and everything that goes to it just lives on a shelf out of the way until I need it and then I take it outside because that's the best dust collection system of all A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Feb 21, 2023 |
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Feb 21, 2023 18:44
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I ditched my (also Hitachi) miter saw and started making miter cuts exclusively on the table saw for much for the same reasons. In my shop, space is very limited, so it was an added bonus to just move the miter saw out and then be able to move a 6” jointer in. (I’m aware the table saw takes up way more space, but that’s not going anywhere) I really don’t miss it at all. Certainly valid concerns above about difficulty with long pieces, but as always with the table saw, be careful and go slow. It’s really not so bad. Bonus if you can secure your piece to the miter gauge/sled. Mister Dog fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Feb 22, 2023 |
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Feb 22, 2023 04:26
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Hey guys I'm gonna start producing some wine boxes (13"x8"x4") in small batches, about 24 at a time. I want to etch my company logo on the face of them 13"x8", but I don't know anything about laser engravers. I just don't know how fast/slow they are, how much difference there is between brands/models or even how to load the image I want engraved. Like is it realistic that a single machine can do all 24 boxes in a single day? Do some of yall mind sharing you're experiences with these tools?
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Feb 22, 2023 23:27
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Janitor Prime posted:Hey guys I'm gonna start producing some wine boxes (13"x8"x4") in small batches, about 24 at a time. I want to etch my company logo on the face of them 13"x8", but I don't know anything about laser engravers. I just don't know how fast/slow they are, how much difference there is between brands/models or even how to load the image I want engraved. Like is it realistic that a single machine can do all 24 boxes in a single day? How fast you can crank them out depends on the complexity of the file: but getting 24 done in one days feels like it could be a stretch. As far as software/brand ecosystems go, it's p much Glowforge($$$) and everything else. So for most other brands, you can try importing your file into Lightburn and letting it tell you how long one rep will take. Glowforge requires its own software, but you can also take a file to certain Joann Fabrics stores and book time on their machine.
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Feb 22, 2023 23:42
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With Glowforge I think you just upload the right file type into their cloud tool, you don't need any other "software." Source: a friend of mine has a glowforge and did some cutting for me, I just had to send her the SVG files.
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Feb 22, 2023 23:53
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What you might try instead is to make your stencil in real life and apply it by hand. You have two main options. The first of course is paint -- just spray it through the stencil, it'll take like 5-10 seconds per box (plus setup time, but you can set up a shield that will prevent overspray without needing to tape stuff for each box). The second is to "paint" the wood with ammonium chloride, remove the stencil, then use a heat gun on the painted area. This will burn specifically the part of the wood that's been dosed with the ammonium chloride. My experience with ammonium chloride is that it can easily get a bit blobby, so I wouldn't go that route if you really need sharp edges. But it absolutely does work. Personally I find laser-cut/engraved stuff to be too mechanistic, so I prefer the more irregular looks you get from this kind of process.
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Feb 23, 2023 00:47
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Maybe a brand for that quantity?
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Feb 23, 2023 03:09
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Janitor Prime posted:Hey guys I'm gonna start producing some wine boxes (13"x8"x4") in small batches, about 24 at a time. I want to etch my company logo on the face of them 13"x8", but I don't know anything about laser engravers. I just don't know how fast/slow they are, how much difference there is between brands/models or even how to load the image I want engraved. Like is it realistic that a single machine can do all 24 boxes in a single day? If your goal is to get 24 wine boxes laser engraved, hire someone to do that. It's not that expensive, especially when you compare cost of the machine and all the time and energy it would take to learn to operate it and then actually run it. It will be better, faster and cheaper to hire this out unless you start making a whole bunch of boxes. Even then, there's not a huge overlap between the skillset for making boxes and whatever your normal job is and running a laser engraver-it would likely still be the smart thing to hire this out. If your goal is to get into laser engraving as a hobby/business, that's another question that this forum can probably help with. There is a thread here somewhere specifically about laser engravers. The hobby CNC thread would also be a good place to ask. I know someone itt does or did laser engraving for money and hopefully they'll be along. Lots of small hobby CNC machines can run a laser too-my buddy has one, but I have no idea how fast it is.
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Feb 23, 2023 03:31
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Haven't had a reason to scroll saw much lately but I pulled it out to make some cases for my girlfriend's jaw harp collection over the weekend. I (mostly) didn't gently caress up anything noticeable and I think they turned out alright.  Also made an unexciting thing to hold some storage bins (the edges are dyed oak) which made me really miss Baltic birch. I used Home Depot's "Sande" and while it looks okay whatever they're making the inner plies out of is so soft it barely wants to hold screws.  
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Feb 23, 2023 15:44
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