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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
You're right, my bad.

I even looked it up and it said that it just rises above the containing formation, but doesn't necessarily flow out of the ground.

Around here its pretty much never referred to it as Artesian unless its flowing out of the ground.And we've confirmed that we didn't drill through a water line

Funny enough today I have to sit in front of a computer and take a course about dealing with flowing wells to get my continuing education cred to keep my well tech license.

Gonna clock some fuckin knowledge today!

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Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I am having a new vanity top installed, but I am removing old one and the two sinks myself. Is leaving the drain pipes un capped for a few days going cause me any problems? I want give myself plenty time to get everything removed before the installer show up.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
No. Cap them with a plastic bag and a rubber band.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I wouldn't leave them totally uncapped. As suggested already, a plastic bag and rubber bands are what I usually do.

You want to make sure no bugs or sewer gas can find their way out of it.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Calidus posted:

Is leaving the drain pipes un capped for a few days going cause me any problems?

At worst, your bathroom could explode. At best, it will stink up your whole house. Shove a rag in there or use a plastic bag and a rubber band.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
My plumbing has started making a quick water hammer sound that dissipates after a few seconds. I can recreate it when throwing the hot side fully open quickly.

It didn't use to do this. I've had water hammer arrestors on both washing machine taps for over a year and used to joke that I didn't even need them. I haven't changed anything in my plumbing. What could have changed to cause this?

Does anyone have tips to diagnose where this is coming from and how to solve it?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Water hammer is a single bang that happens once when closing a valve too quickly. Like a hammer striking something.

I'm not sure what you're describing if it "dissipates after a few seconds."

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
That makes sense. I'm hearing a puttering in the pipes recently. It doesn't happen at all if I don't open it like an impulse. I'll see if I can capture the sound.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Motronic posted:

Water hammer is a single bang that happens once when closing a valve too quickly. Like a hammer striking something.

I'm not sure what you're describing if it "dissipates after a few seconds."

one of the labs at school has pipes running along the ceiling that make an enormous bang when someone shuts off a sink upstairs, and they rattle for a few seconds afterwards because the pipe itself rocks back and forth from the shock

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Motronic posted:

Water hammer is a single bang that happens once when closing a valve too quickly. Like a hammer striking something.

I'm not sure what you're describing if it "dissipates after a few seconds."

I’m guessing that there’s a run of pipe that’s resonating back & forth. Sometimes you can get a short drum solo when closing a valve suddenly. (See post above)

I have no arrestors in my house, have not had a need for them. Do they age out/fail?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

PainterofCrap posted:

Do they age out/fail?

Well, the old types that were just made of copper pipe above the fixture to trap an air space won't work forever. That trapped air will eventually get absorbed by the water in a few weeks. You need the rubber diaphragm of a dedicated hammer arrestor to keep the air and water separate. Since rubber breaks down however, they will need to be replaced in a few decades as well.

Illuminado
Mar 26, 2008

The Path Ahead is Dark
Well, today was exciting, busted everything out, had to remove the old blocking for the old valve, pull out the old pipes, bend the old shower riser to get it out.

Then came installing new parts. I sized everything out, dry fit it, soldered everything up as well as I could, turned on the water and....


At both the hot and cold, each valve was just barely dribbling, only a drop every 5-10 seconds, but that's not going to do.

Took the whole thing apart, redid everything, doubled up the teflon tape on the valves and torqued them down, installed everything again and...

The cold valve was still leaking. Spent all day working on this, and I'm frustrated, but not giving up yet.

Picked up a shut-off valve just for this contingency, soldered it in and I'll re-engage in the morning after getting 2 new rolls of teflon tape.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



It's leaking at the threads? Use pipe dope + teflon tape.

I was initially taught to never do this, but my success rate with stubborn drips is high.

Sometimes, you just get a lovely threaded coupler. Consider replacing it if it won't seal.

Illuminado
Mar 26, 2008

The Path Ahead is Dark
I'll add those to my shopping list at the home center tomorrow, thanks!

SpartanIvy posted:

Look for Blue Monster PTFE tape and pipe dope. It's the best. I had a very stubborn threaded pipe connection for my shower and Blue Monster brand stuff did the trick finally after several tries with normal Teflon tape. The Blue Monster tape is nice and thick compared to cheap Teflon tape.

Noted, thanks!

Illuminado fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Feb 26, 2023

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat
Found a thin layer of standing water under my kitchen sink this evening, there's no glaringly obvious leak so how do I best go about finding the source of the water? Looks like this-


Hot water intake on the bottom left, cold water on the bottom right. The lines on the far right side go into and out of the dishwasher, which I last ran about 24 hours ago. I had a box of baking soda in there that was thoroughly soaked so it must have been standing in said water for a little while. I ran the sink for a few minutes after removing the water under here and I didn't see anything new, so my gut tells me that it's a problem with the dishwasher...

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Illuminado posted:

I'll add those to my shopping list at the home center tomorrow, thanks!

Look for Blue Monster PTFE tape and pipe dope. It's the best. I had a very stubborn threaded pipe connection for my shower and Blue Monster brand stuff did the trick finally after several tries with normal Teflon tape. The Blue Monster tape is nice and thick compared to cheap Teflon tape.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


StormDrain posted:

What the heck is an outdoor soil pipe?

There are very clear tables in the IRC that address how many fixtures can be attached to vent stacks. The number that can go on a 3" pipe is A LOT.

Shifty Pony posted:

You absolutely need venting of some sort at each drain, doubly so if there is a toilet using the same branch of the drain, triply so if the toilet is on the second floor.

If you don't you will get gurgling and strange drainage at best and at worst when you flush the toilet all of the water in the traps will gush out like old faithful.

Sorry for the wording, that's me giving more context than needed.

What I'm really asking is whether I need to add the bit in blue in this rough diagram (not to scale, some bits left out):

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

C-Euro posted:

Found a thin layer of standing water under my kitchen sink this evening, there's no glaringly obvious leak so how do I best go about finding the source of the water? Looks like this-


Hot water intake on the bottom left, cold water on the bottom right. The lines on the far right side go into and out of the dishwasher, which I last ran about 24 hours ago. I had a box of baking soda in there that was thoroughly soaked so it must have been standing in said water for a little while. I ran the sink for a few minutes after removing the water under here and I didn't see anything new, so my gut tells me that it's a problem with the dishwasher...

Dry the poo poo out of everything.

Then run the dishwasher on a rinse or other short cycle. Look for leaks coming from the drain hose or something.

Check all fittings and clamps for looseness.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

I have no arrestors in my house, have not had a need for them. Do they age out/fail?

Yeah. Even the good ones are just mini pressure tanks, so there's an air bladder in there that will eventually go bad.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



C-Euro posted:

Found a thin layer of standing water under my kitchen sink this evening...

wesleywillis posted:

Dry the poo poo out of everything.

Then run the dishwasher on a rinse or other short cycle. Look for leaks coming from the drain hose or something.

Check all fittings and clamps for looseness.

In addition: lay pieces of paper towel down on the cabinet floor. Should give you a clue.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

C-Euro posted:

Found a thin layer of standing water under my kitchen sink this evening, there's no glaringly obvious leak so how do I best go about finding the source of the water? Looks like this-


Hot water intake on the bottom left, cold water on the bottom right. The lines on the far right side go into and out of the dishwasher, which I last ran about 24 hours ago. I had a box of baking soda in there that was thoroughly soaked so it must have been standing in said water for a little while. I ran the sink for a few minutes after removing the water under here and I didn't see anything new, so my gut tells me that it's a problem with the dishwasher...

You need to run the dishwasher to find out, yes.

Also this
https://homeinspectionms.com/a-common-dishwasher-installation-defect-with-an-easy-fix/

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


We're on a well in a drought-prone (not after this winter, but we need to stay prepped for the future) area of California. We have a builder's special nozzle on the downstairs shower. It gives forth a single narrow jet of water that isn't great for, say, washing your legs or rinsing your hair.

Does anybody have a favorite low-water-use nozzle that has a wider spray, or gives the impression of more water? The Moen that has the laminar-flow thing isn't legal in California.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Arsenic Lupin posted:

We're on a well in a drought-prone (not after this winter, but we need to stay prepped for the future) area of California. We have a builder's special nozzle on the downstairs shower. It gives forth a single narrow jet of water that isn't great for, say, washing your legs or rinsing your hair.

Does anybody have a favorite low-water-use nozzle that has a wider spray, or gives the impression of more water? The Moen that has the laminar-flow thing isn't legal in California.

What are the requirements for gpm where you live?

Delta advertises a H20Kinetic that uses some tactic to feel like more water use than it uses. I don't have it so I suppose that's not a ton of help but maybe a direction to help you.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


StormDrain posted:

What are the requirements for gpm where you live?

Delta advertises a H20Kinetic that uses some tactic to feel like more water use than it uses. I don't have it so I suppose that's not a ton of help but maybe a direction to help you.
1.8 GPM. The lowest an H20Kinetic will go is 1.85. Why that extra .05? :iiam: This isn't even about my ethics; Moen and Delta won't ship to a California address.

e: Wirecutter likes the Kohler 22169-G-BN Forte Showerhead; anybody used one?

Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Feb 26, 2023

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Arsenic Lupin posted:

1.8 GPM. The lowest an H20Kinetic will go is 1.85. Why that extra .05? :iiam: This isn't even about my ethics; Moen and Delta won't ship to a California address.

e: Wirecutter likes the Kohler 22169-G-BN Forte Showerhead; anybody used one?

Interesting, I was looking through the Delta catalog and noted most of them are available at 1.75gpm and that must have been to clear under 1.8 minimum. Perhaps look again?


Delta Website posted:

Most Delta, Brizo and Peerless shower devices that comply with the 2.0 gpm standard have been converted to 1.75 gpm and are in compliance with the 1.8 gpm standard. This is a running change for most models with no change to model numbers. All 1.75 gpm products will be WaterSense® labeled and marked with a green sticker on the individual box and outer carton.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Illuminado posted:

Well, today was exciting, busted everything out, had to remove the old blocking for the old valve, pull out the old pipes, bend the old shower riser to get it out.

Then came installing new parts. I sized everything out, dry fit it, soldered everything up as well as I could, turned on the water and....


At both the hot and cold, each valve was just barely dribbling, only a drop every 5-10 seconds, but that's not going to do.

Took the whole thing apart, redid everything, doubled up the teflon tape on the valves and torqued them down, installed everything again and...

The cold valve was still leaking. Spent all day working on this, and I'm frustrated, but not giving up yet.

Picked up a shut-off valve just for this contingency, soldered it in and I'll re-engage in the morning after getting 2 new rolls of teflon tape.



I can't tell from the picture, is it leaking from the integrated shutoffs? Did you remove them before soldering (if you soldered in with the fittings attached?) If not, you may have cooked them

Illuminado
Mar 26, 2008

The Path Ahead is Dark

devicenull posted:

I can't tell from the picture, is it leaking from the integrated shutoffs? Did you remove them before soldering (if you soldered in with the fittings attached?) If not, you may have cooked them

I did everything I could to solder in the adjacent threaded fittings before installing them, but I broke down and just did it. one was singed a tad, but they both work fine. I really wanted to avoid that, but I didn't have the snap ring pliers to remove them and took the risk, thankfully it worked out.

I realized today that the location for the control valve would be too low for the tub spout to fit with the cover plate, so I had to undo all the fittings, move the hole, redo the shower riser, and install everything again.

Got everything all tightened down with the Blue Monster tape and put pipe dope on before tightening all the fittings on PFT.

Got to soldering the remaining joints into place and tested it, no leaks thus far, installed the fixtures for the shower and tub, and then the fitting on the tub spout was leaking. Removed the soldered elbow, unscrewed the fitting, cleaned both up, reapplied the new tape and pipe dope, screwed it on AGAIN, soldered it in, and it worked... finally.

With everything fitting and working,I installed the blocking for the valve and showerhead drop-ear to mount to. Tested it out and all working, no leaking.
Took a nice hot (but not too hot) shower and now I can relax. Thanks for the help y'all. I'll post pics when I get back to my pc.

Illuminado
Mar 26, 2008

The Path Ahead is Dark








Illuminado fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Feb 27, 2023

NZAmoeba
Feb 14, 2005

It turns out it's MAN!
Hair Elf

StormDrain posted:

I doubt you need hammer arrestors. Those are for electrically operated valves that can shut full off instantly. Refrigerators, coffee machines, ice makers, irrigation, washing machines, dishwashers. Anything you do by hand is closing slow enough that you can't get a hammer. My outside valve doesn't need it until I put a timer on it and it hammers hard when it shuts off. A lot of the appliances listed don't use water fast enough either to get much of a hammer, like dishwashers or fridges. It's about velocity and momentum with a sudden stop.

This reminded me that the timers I use for outdoor watering are violent as hell when they shut off.

But I'm also wondering how well an arrestor would survive if it's installed outside and winters are extreme (pipes drained for winter obviously, but the taps are at the end of a long outdoor line)

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


I want to set up small scale irrigation piping from my outside faucet. No timer, just me. Am I correct in thinking i want a backflow preventer on the tap?

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Arsenic Lupin posted:

I want to set up small scale irrigation piping from my outside faucet. No timer, just me. Am I correct in thinking i want a backflow preventer on the tap?

Absolutely, and a vacuum breaker if you don't have one already.

MrChrome
Jan 21, 2001

NZAmoeba posted:

This reminded me that the timers I use for outdoor watering are violent as hell when they shut off.

But I'm also wondering how well an arrestor would survive if it's installed outside and winters are extreme (pipes drained for winter obviously, but the taps are at the end of a long outdoor line)

I use these for my outdoor sprinkler timers and disconnect them in the winter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004P5D0MG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat

Didn't see any leaks from running the dishwasher on an express cycle, so that's a good start I guess. I'll try that hanging trick sometime when I have a few minutes to disconnect some lines to untangle things, thanks.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I've apparently got an issue with my tub\shower drain. If I keep water in it, everything is fine, but its acting like the p-trap is dry. Filling it with water daily doesn't help.

Had foundation issues a few years ago that were fixed, my guess is they caused a crack or something and the p-trap just leaks? Is there another possibility? Does the entire tub\tilework have to be ripped out to fix this sorta thing on a first floor\foundation tub?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

bobua posted:

Is there another possibility?

Clogged vent. When you're using other things, likely the toilet, it's pulling vacuum on the trap in the shower and emptying the water out of it.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I just replaced sinks on a double vanity is normal to have hot/cold be outside/inside instead of left/right? It me made me go wtf.

NZAmoeba
Feb 14, 2005

It turns out it's MAN!
Hair Elf

MrChrome posted:

I use these for my outdoor sprinkler timers and disconnect them in the winter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004P5D0MG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh that could work! I assume they don't mind being outside in the summer elements?

And hello again friends, I have discovered a small leak on a valve for a cast iron radiator



I'm hoping that trying to tighten the white nut at the top might help? I don't feel qualified to do a whole valve replacement, not after watching a YouTube of a guy doing it with a spud wrench (don't have) and two, 2 foot long wrenches (holy moly)

Edited image, should I be attacking A? I'm assuming not B. I'm assuming moving the mushroom head is only going to affect the temperature, and leak regardless

NZAmoeba fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Mar 1, 2023

stupid puma
Apr 25, 2005

I just randomly saw a This Old House Clip on IG today that might help: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CpLI5eyodcd/?igshid=OTRmMjhlYjM=

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


sharkytm posted:

Absolutely, and a vacuum breaker if you don't have one already.
What's a vacuum breaker?

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NZAmoeba
Feb 14, 2005

It turns out it's MAN!
Hair Elf
Update, nut A turned a whole lot easier than I expected it to. Tight now, will check it again later to see if there's any further dripping

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