CommonShore posted:Give me some thoughts on a design decision here. I'm making my second Burr oak table. It will be timber frame construction and like a buffet/counter dimension. I feel like doing much beyond epoxy there would get a bit busy but it’s an artistic choice. Maybe a slightly different epoxy color for that specific fill vs the others
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Mar 1, 2023 00:22
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Fellatio del Toro posted:anyone have a 36" Sawstop PCS? I'm looking at upgrading from my jobsite saw but I have some awkward space constraints in my garage. basically, the back 6 six feet of the garage is raised about 6 inches from the rest which complicates storing any large machines. I could fit it at the back between the cars pretty easily with the table extending over the raised shelf, but I'd have to take off the legs due to the difference in height This is how I ended up with SawStop Job Site Pro.
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Mar 1, 2023 00:45
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That Works posted:I feel like doing much beyond epoxy there would get a bit busy but it’s an artistic choice. Maybe a slightly different epoxy color for that specific fill vs the others Fine metal powders in epoxy look pretty nice when polished. Clear if you can pull it off also looks nice. Route it out and inlay it if you are feeling creative like the previous poster said. Calidus posted:This is how I ended up with SawStop Job Site Pro. A fellow I know has been having tons of issues with his Sawstop. It has some bug where it just randomly triggers the brake even when the saw is not in use. It only happens with the new brakes and the SawStop solution was to send him the older style brake system and have him replace the internals himself. He's been going round in circles with them since.
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Mar 1, 2023 00:53
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I think that thisA Wizard of Goatse posted:on an aesthetic level, there's a lot of bar counters and tacky turquoise fills where they just dump stuff loosely in a hole and pour epoxy around it like that and they look trashy as poo poo IMO. It's the cheapest and easiest way to fill a void but that's a big project worth spending some time on (unless you're specifically going for the cheap bar counter look), and it's not like you're trying to crank out eight more this week. articulates well what I was worried about and what i was envisioning in the pessimistic imagining of the design. If someone else can see it, it's a legit outcome. Because of the special provenance of the slab (it was a gift from a friend and the tree had sentimental value to her family), I want a mostly natural look that leans away from the whole "pintrest river table" aesthetic. I'm now leaning towards a natural look with clear epoxy and a delicate approach to removing the excess material in there. I might experiment with the idea of using epoxy and small pieces of contrasting woods to fill a void on a future project (I have lots of voidy slab pieces anyway) but not for this one. Thanks all.
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Mar 1, 2023 01:33
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CommonShore posted:Give me some thoughts on a design decision here. I'm making my second Burr oak table. It will be timber frame construction and like a buffet/counter dimension. Why not just leave it?
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Mar 1, 2023 01:56
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Yeah I generally prefer a natural look, I'm not a huge fan of epoxy - at its best I guess I don't mind a glossy black fill that serves to contrast the wood - but I'd lean toward either leaving it be, which may involve doing something to stabilize the bark inclusion; or, cut it out and fill it with a contrasting wood also used for the legs, such as walnut. Clear epoxy is challenging because every bubble shows. There's a lot of videos and stuff about doing perfectly clear epoxy but it's not something I'd take on as my first epoxy fill project.
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Mar 1, 2023 02:00
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CommonShore posted:Slabchat Check out this guy's channel: https://m.youtube.com/@BlacktailStudio He's got enough variety of slabs with epoxy you can get an idea of what to expect, and his meticulousness will give you an idea of how much work this will be.
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Mar 1, 2023 02:02
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Leperflesh posted:Clear epoxy is challenging because every bubble shows. There's a lot of videos and stuff about doing perfectly clear epoxy but it's not something I'd take on as my first epoxy fill project. Seconding this. Getting a good epoxy pour is really hard.
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Mar 1, 2023 02:22
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CommonShore posted:I think that this If you don’t like the bark inclusion, gouge it out and leave a nice texture off the gouge. Oak takes a lovey subtle polish from sharp steel. E: now I’m really gettin crazy-inlay a different wood from the back side about halfway through the slab (I’d use walnut or something dark just so it still kind looks like a crack but something light or exotic color could be cool too) and then carve down from the face side with a gouge down into the inlay piece and it’ll still look kind of organic because the inlay wood will show through only in gouge shaped swoops and it’ll look neat. Uhhhhh…do a test piece first tho. E2: or do all of the above but without the gouging and inlay the piece almost all the way through the top-maybe a 1/4” shy of the top surface. Crack is stabilized, still looks natural from the top, stuff won’t fall down through it, isn’t a difficult and overdone epoxy pour. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Mar 1, 2023 |
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Mar 1, 2023 03:15
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Sockington posted:Can’t ignore that Greatful Dead skull in the walnut. Holy poo poo! That is amazing!
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Mar 1, 2023 03:35
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Re: the slab table, just throwing this out there: sometimes a hole in the middle of a table can be very useful!
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Mar 1, 2023 03:35
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Hm is the consensus moving against my stabilizing bow ties?
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Mar 1, 2023 04:05
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Sometimes it's good to have a fully stocked workshop handy to help you respond quickly to emergencies. Like the bubbler breaking   CommonShore posted:Hm is the consensus moving against my stabilizing bow ties? they're fine? they'd be great with a simpler/more naturalistic Nakashima thing, with epoxy they're probably not strictly necessary, really depends on what else you're doing there A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Mar 1, 2023 |
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Mar 1, 2023 04:12
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CommonShore posted:Hm is the consensus moving against my stabilizing bow ties? Dovetails are good at what they do! You should do whatever looks good to you-that’s what makes it your piece of furniture and not a ‘hivemind of the SA woodworking thread’ piece of furniture. ‘What looks good’ is highly personal and there are no rules at all there. I like to look at the source of a style-original antiques, not the factory knock of antiques. In your case, I’d spend some time looking at original Nakashima tables and pay attention to how he handled things vs. how the generations-removed derivative epoxypeople of YouTube do it. There’s plenty of his original stuff on google and 1stdibs and in books, but beware ‘Nakashima style’. I’m not a big slab table guy, but if you’re gonna do a slab table, time spent looking at Nakashima’s stuff will be time well spent. That not to say copy it-find your own style for sure!-but don’t be afraid to look for guidance from people who spent a lifetime honing their aesthetic.
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Mar 1, 2023 04:41
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yeah I'm not hive-minding here by any means - just trying to follow the discussion. I got the taste for bow tie/dovetail stabilizers from watching Ishitani, and I've used them on a few projects so I'm comfortable with the technique. I'll go look up some Nakashima tables.
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Mar 1, 2023 05:01
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Ok I really like Nakashima's approach and I'm going to spend a few days mulling over how I want to proceed (I don't have much workshop time for a bit anyway). I might use clear epoxy for smaller voids and then carefully chisel out the bark from the crotch and stabilize it with a bow tie. I've spent a lot of effort trying to minimize the epoxy use and it just never occurred to me simply not to fill the void and use it as a feature rather than as something that needed to be overcome.
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Mar 1, 2023 16:58
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Let's talk about dirty little secrets -- offcuts. What do y'all do with them? As workpieces keep getting smaller, I think... maybe I can do something with this sometime. And it goes in a pile. I had enough this morning and cut a contractor bag full of dead tree carcass poo poo I was keeping "just in case" and I still have a ton more. So do you have a rule of what you keep, versus what you pitch or burn?
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Mar 3, 2023 16:35
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EVERYWHERE 
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For solid wood, anything shorter than 13” (minimum length for my planer) goes in the trash/gets cut up for kindling. Exception is very figured or 8/4 stuff which I cut into 2x2x whatever for small turning blanks for finials, knobs, etc. Long pieces smaller than 3/4” in any dimension get cut up for kindling. It used to be 1/2” square but I found I never actually used them. I have racks under my chop saw bench for short scrap that’s too short for my normal lumber rack. You gotta train yourself to look there for something first or else the piles grow and grow and grow. I use short oak scraps for drawer sides/runners etc. for example. 3/4” square stuff gets cut up and holes drilled in it to make screw blocks to attach table tops to aprons. For plywood I tend to keep stupidly small scraps since they are always useful for jigs and stuff. Now I wish I could get back all the Baltic birch ‘scrap’ I threw away over the years. If you have a fire pit/wood stove/fireplace that’s a great way to get rid of scrap without feeling guilty for wasting it. The old shop where I worked was heated by a wood stove and we would throw all the scrap on a pile outside and then burn it all winter. I don’t have a wood stove now, so a shameful amount goes in the dumpster. Getting into pen turning is another way to get rid of small scrap or an excuse to hoard tiny scrap and spend a bunch of money getting rid of your scrap depending on your perspective.
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Mar 3, 2023 17:28
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I cut up too-small offcuts for use in the garden. Anything down to 4" I can make use of. I hoard hardwood though.
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Mar 3, 2023 17:32
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mostly depends on how square and clean cut it is. if its a nice square piece it goes into a big pile assuming, incorrectly, that I will use it for something eventually. this pile will ultimately consume my garage and then probably start making its way into the house as for actual uses, mostly for jigs, spacers, testing stains and finishes, and I keep lots of thin cuts to use as stirrers for paint/stain/etc the more challenging question for me has been how to get rid of all the loving sawdust
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Mar 3, 2023 17:53
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I have what basically amounts to a triage system for offcuts, depending on rarity/price, purpose, and size. Size is self-explanatory. Rarity perhaps isn't the right word, but my standards for keeping a piece of hardware store-grade softwood are a lot higher than oak or walnut. Purpose is essentially is this piece still usable for structural, carving, veneer, or another clear purpose like drawer runners, bottoms etc. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, I limit the amount of space for storing small stuff. It's easy to just stick that the stuff anywhere you can, like a squirrel storing nuts for winter, but that only leads to a) an overwhelming amount of junk you're never going to use, because b) you can't easily what you have, so you never do use it. So uh, throw away small pieces before you get attached and stick them somewhere with the rest of the stuff you can't throw out and end up shuffling around and around until you finally get sick of the piles of seemingly useful but actually worthless junk that you finally throw it out. (That's totally not speaking from experience, no sirree.)
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Mar 3, 2023 17:57
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I have a place I put long thin bits and a place I put chunks and a third place where I put small bits. I use them for push sticks, or for making jigs, or testing a finish, or when I need a little wedge, etc. Of course the majority never gets used, sinks to the bottom, and eventually I'll need to cull, but I haven't been doing enough projects over the last few years to generate an overwhelming amount yet. I don't keep sawdust or tiny chunks or anything split or ripped up. I also don't bother keeping small bits of pine or low-grade ply.
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Mar 3, 2023 18:40
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meatpimp posted:Let's talk about dirty little secrets -- offcuts. I started out using other peoples' offcuts so most stuff that's reasonably clean and bigger than 1/8" gets turned into something sooner or later. I make more than I end up using but not by much, I've got a single shelf that's slowly filling with scraps. Fine-grained sawdust from the bandsaw or sander gets mixed with glue and used as a filler, ideally separated out to match the base wood but usually lol no. Everything else goes in the smoker, fire pit, or compost pile, depending on how full of assorted other crap it is. Finished products are a much bigger storage problem, sometimes a thing just won't sell (and there's only so many jewelry boxes and other fair trash you can fob off as Christmas presents), or I replace a piece of furniture with a better version, or something just can't be salvaged for whatever reason and poo poo piles up until I have to just load up the truck and do a mass purge. I've had this thing sitting around my dining room for months, it's not really safe to sit in cause the lower legs need to join up differently and it doesn't have a back because... it's not really safe to sit in but my wife won't let me break it down for parts because it's a "decorative chair" now. we have so goddamn many "decorative chairs" 
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Mar 3, 2023 19:03
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:I've had this thing sitting around my dining room for months, it's not really safe to sit in cause the lower legs need to join up differently and it doesn't have a back because... it's not really safe to sit in but my wife won't let me break it down for parts because it's a "decorative chair" now. we have so goddamn many "decorative chairs" If you want to be free of it just set a heavy tote of something on it and hope something breaks. The elements will get it soon enough if it lives outside at least. It does look cool, but a chair should be decorative and useful. You could take the back off and use it as a plant stand too.
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Mar 3, 2023 19:39
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:
Lol, goddam. Maybe donate it to a park? Jhet posted:If you want to be free of it just set a heavy tote of something on it and hope something breaks. The elements will get it soon enough if it lives outside at least. Yeah, it'd make a hella plant stand.
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Mar 3, 2023 20:22
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Jhet posted:If you want to be free of it just set a heavy tote of something on it and hope something breaks. The elements will get it soon enough if it lives outside at least. I expect the problem will solve itself sooner or later because every single time we have someone over they immediately beeline over to that thing and plant their rear end tbh it was fine for that, just not strong enough to sell, until I jumped on it a few times to test the joint. Now it's a bit uh mushy when you sit down.
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Mar 3, 2023 21:29
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meatpimp posted:Let's talk about dirty little secrets -- offcuts. Softwood offcuts under a couple feet go straight in the burn pine, as does anything that's out of square. I make things pretty often that either include or are made entirely out of little bits of scrap and poo poo so outside of that I keep more than most probably, but I basically just keep my offcuts sorted into bins based on the size/shape/type of wood. If it's too small to belong in any of the existing bins then it's too small to keep. Sometimes I'll keep stuff that's smaller than usual if I'm doing a project that creates a lot of similar offcuts (one 4" piece of 3/4" x 3/4" maple is trash, but two hundred is a party). Wallet fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Mar 3, 2023 |
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Mar 3, 2023 21:35
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Sawdust/plane shavings get kept for use as the world’s best tinder.
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Mar 4, 2023 00:54
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Kalman posted:Sawdust/plane shavings get kept for use as the world’s best tinder. Oh yeah I do this too, I have a couple bags of clean shavings I use for the chimney when I grill and bring camping for the campfire. But I'm generating more than I use right now so some of it has to get binned or composted.
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Mar 4, 2023 01:00
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Came here to share this relevant Nakashima table. https://www.incollect.com/listings/furniture/tables/george-nakashima-slab-ii-coffee-table-1962-96101
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Mar 4, 2023 01:49
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I've been using a radial arm saw for what little woodworking I've done over the past 20 years or so, but it is sketchy as gently caress for ripping. Last year, I bought a compound miter saw. The other day, I bought a table saw. That being said, is there really much reason to make a crosscut sled if you have a miter saw and a radial arm saw? The only reason I can see if you are crosscutting pieces wider than what the other saws can cut. I see youtube videos where people are crosscutting 6" boards using a crosscut sled and wonder why they don't just use a miter saw.
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Mar 5, 2023 03:58
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The crosscut sled almost certainly works with zero clearance support for the workpiece. Miter saw dust collection is usually pretty poor also.
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Mar 5, 2023 04:16
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With jigs, you can use a sled to do things like make a long taper on a leg, or cut a slot for a splined joint. You can use a cool jig to cut box joints on the long edge of a plank. If you don't mind making a larger hole in your sled you can use it to crosscut dadoes and rabbets. A full-size cabinet saw give you at least a couple feet of capacity on a sled, usually more than you have even with a large radial arm saw. The position of the table saw in the center of your workspace can give you the side or outfeed room you need that you don't necessarily have with your miter saw unless you set up your miter saw flush with a long bench. The sled can handle large heavy pieces that stick up in the air, where you might not be able to maneuver them into the jaws of your miter saw. I'm sure I'm missing a few more options, this is just a sample; the table saw is a versatile tool and the sled adds more versatility. I'm sure there are many tasks that can be done just as well on the miter saw, and many more that are better suited to the miter than the table.
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Mar 5, 2023 04:19
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SkunkDuster posted:I've been using a radial arm saw for what little woodworking I've done over the past 20 years or so, but it is sketchy as gently caress for ripping. Last year, I bought a compound miter saw. The other day, I bought a table saw. Cut a board as wide as your miter saw will cut and look at it real closely with a framing square. It’s probably a little off dead square and probably has a little belly or curve in it. A table saw will make a dead square miter straight across. For the kind of work you do that little bit of imprecision may not matter to you, and for a ton of stuff it doesn’t really matter. I use my chop saw all the time, but when I news something really square and straight, I get the crosscut sled out. There’s also generally a bit better blade selection on a table saw so you can match the right blade to the job and blade changes are easier than on a miter saw. I also find it easier to use the fence or me other stop on the table saw to make make repeat than setting a stop on the miter saw but ymmv. My chop saw setup is not at all fancy.
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Mar 5, 2023 04:32
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SkunkDuster posted:I've been using a radial arm saw for what little woodworking I've done over the past 20 years or so, but it is sketchy as gently caress for ripping. Last year, I bought a compound miter saw. The other day, I bought a table saw. If you have a radial arm saw? Not really.
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Mar 5, 2023 05:08
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Woodworking YouTube subsists off silly jigs
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Mar 5, 2023 06:36
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Resurrecting the scrap wood discussion, it was finally warm enough to get out in the shop yesterday but I didn't want to do anything complicated so I tried my hand at a very simple tailor's clapper for my wife, which is honestly just a piece of hardwood that acts as a moisture and thermal sink when ironing during garment making for crisper folds: It's about 9"x2.5"X1.5". It's sort of vaguely out of square, but it doesn't really matter, every side is flat enough. I just used a round over bit in my trim router, sanded down to 220, raised the grain once and sanded again. No finishing because of the heat involved and the need to use it around fabric.
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Mar 6, 2023 20:54
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I feel kinda shamed by that as I don’t even know the last time I needed an iron. I made a coat rack thing from a chunk of maple (I think?) and an oak top piece. I liked the idea Meowx3 used of the hooks being the attaching points but my one stud was next to the door frame and would have been dumb. I used a dado stack to clean a strip out of the back of the maple, and then mounted a strip of plywood to the studs first. The hook screws will then bite into the plywood backer piece. I was going to make a French cleat and stuff but thought I’d give just a simple ledge cleat setup a go since there’s dickall weight on it.  Two corner clamps make a handy work holder too. Drilled, glued, and screwed it from the top and put some dowels to cover the screws. Slap of some old Johnson paste wax.  Worked I guess. I can pop it off pretty quick to finish the wall later and put it back up. 
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Mar 6, 2023 22:37
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It's warm enough now that I got back out into my shop this last weekend and I'm SO HAPPY. I need to build something like 2-3 jigs, a tapering jig, a spline cutting jig, and a circle cutting jig for my bandsaw so I'm not freehanding round shapes. Granted, the lazy susan I made is pretty awesome considering it was made out of paneled-together scraps and it has a wobbly roundness to it that I think is charming. What's really got me excited is that I finally figured out what I want to do with these live-edge planks of cherry that I got a few months back. Because they're too wide to go through my planer I was a bit stuck but then I split one in half to make some shelves (which are beautiful by the way) and then split another in half to make a pair of serving trays. The only downside is that with spring arriving there's so many things going on that I don't have a ton of time to get out into the shop during the week. All the cuts are done, I just need to sand and assemble the trays and they'll be ready for finish! ^^ That coat rack is awesome!
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Mar 7, 2023 15:29
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Leperflesh posted:With jigs, you can use a sled to do things like make a long taper on a leg, or cut a slot for a splined joint. You can use a cool jig to cut box joints on the long edge of a plank.
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Mar 7, 2023 22:52
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