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A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Fellatio del Toro posted:

would it be foolish to expect mortise and tenon, bridle, and cross lap joints to hold up with just some Titebond III on a piece that is going to stay outside year round in an area where temps vary by 100 degrees throughout the year? are there better options for joints that aren't too difficult or glue that I should be considering, or should I just bite the bullet and add some screws?

yes

you can totally do all-wood construction outdoors but it's a lot of drawbores and tougher mechanical joints that don't rely on adhesives so much. I'd study how people work with green wood a bit, it's a lot of the same principles

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Mar 12, 2023

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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Fellatio del Toro posted:

so I'm wanting to build some cedar outdoor furniture. looking around online for inspiration and most of the stuff I'm finding is a bit on the "screw some 2x4s together" side of basic. I'd like to practice some proper joinery so I'm trying to design something myself

would it be foolish to expect mortise and tenon, bridle, and cross lap joints to hold up with just some Titebond III on a piece that is going to stay outside year round in an area where temps vary by 100 degrees throughout the year? are there better options for joints that aren't too difficult or glue that I should be considering, or should I just bite the bullet and add some screws?
Good quality marine epoxy like West System will hold up much better outdoors than any kind of PVA glue, especially when it’s used inside a joint and not exposed to UV light.

Remember that outdoors wood movement is much much worse than indoor work and plan accordingly.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Fellatio del Toro posted:

so I'm wanting to build some cedar outdoor furniture. looking around online for inspiration and most of the stuff I'm finding is a bit on the "screw some 2x4s together" side of basic. I'd like to practice some proper joinery so I'm trying to design something myself

would it be foolish to expect mortise and tenon, bridle, and cross lap joints to hold up with just some Titebond III on a piece that is going to stay outside year round in an area where temps vary by 100 degrees throughout the year? are there better options for joints that aren't too difficult or glue that I should be considering, or should I just bite the bullet and add some screws?

No shame in screws. Make sure they're stainless. In fact, just make some Norm chairs and get a feel for the whole thing: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/adirondack-chair-plans/

I've got 5 of those chairs rough cut in cedar, just need to prioritize getting them out from under my workbench and made into final form.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I'm just gonna add that cedar can be a little troubling to work with. I tried cutting dovetails into cedar once and after I'd glued six back on and the seventh snapped I was like gently caress this. There is very little strength in the lignin, basically, so plan your joints accordingly. If you can find cedar with tight grain that is fully dry that's best, and go for larger chonky joinery rather than delicate fine joinery, at least as a beginner. For outdoor patio furniture that's probably fine, just... don't do what I did and try to build a slim little box with dovetail joints lol.

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut

meatpimp posted:

No shame in screws. Make sure they're stainless. In fact, just make some Norm chairs and get a feel for the whole thing: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/adirondack-chair-plans/

I've got 5 of those chairs rough cut in cedar, just need to prioritize getting them out from under my workbench and made into final form.



Assuming they are comfy? Saw some that had a lumbar curve in the back that looked like they would be great, but not sure if it would impact much on an Adirondack.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Leperflesh posted:

I'm just gonna add that cedar can be a little troubling to work with. I tried cutting dovetails into cedar once and after I'd glued six back on and the seventh snapped I was like gently caress this. There is very little strength in the lignin, basically, so plan your joints accordingly. If you can find cedar with tight grain that is fully dry that's best, and go for larger chonky joinery rather than delicate fine joinery, at least as a beginner. For outdoor patio furniture that's probably fine, just... don't do what I did and try to build a slim little box with dovetail joints lol.

At some point in this thread someone mentioned getting tear out in cedar while hand sanding; an apt description which you've reinforced.

I spent a good chunk of the day jointing, planing and gluing up some cherry for my next big project. While I don't love all the noise and having to empty the dust collector a bunch of times (4 bags), it still is enjoyable embarking on the beginning of a big project. I got some nice grain matches in the glue ups, and soon I'll be cutting some dovetails. I'm building a Monticello stacking bookcase as my next project, I'll be adding some sliding doors (with marquetry!) to it and hoping to tie it in with the media console and other bookshelf I built recently. Wish me luck.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Breaking down and milling stock at the beginning of a project is one of may favorite parts. Bringing order to chaos and starting to see how things will look is fun.

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

at first the thing that got me excited was putting all the pieces for something together in an elaborate clamping setup, but now the thing that gets me excited is when you use the jointer and you can feel a little suction between the boards because of how perfectly flat they are :discourse:

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Bob Mundon posted:

Assuming they are comfy? Saw some that had a lumbar curve in the back that looked like they would be great, but not sure if it would impact much on an Adirondack.

Surprisingly comfy. Good angles and a very relaxing chair. I made this one a couple years ago as proof of concept, right now it's disassembled and I'll be using those pieces as templates for the cedar ones (and I've got a second stack of cedar if I want to make another batch).

Notes on the below build: ignore the mis-drilled hole in the left armrest. Rookie mistake corrected with a proper plug. Also, I countersunk and screwed and glued all of the seat slats and the backrest -- next time it'll just be some brad nails along with glue. Quicker and no less solid. And make sure to use stainless bolts. It's about $10/chair for stainless fasteners.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I built cabinets for my bathrooms out of cedar a couple years ago. It is not a particularly pleasurable material to work with. Cedar is very light and rot-resistant, but extremely prone to tear out and not particularly strong. I think it also tends to be oily, so glue-up can be tricky. Many pages recommend wiping your joints with acetone before gluing them together. The airborne dust can be pretty bad for you. Moreso than other popular woods.

I made it hard on myself by insisting on box joints for all the corners and all half-laps for the face frames and Shaker-style doors. I think the cabinets turned out pretty nice though.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Mar 13, 2023

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Breaking down and milling stock at the beginning of a project is one of may favorite parts. Bringing order to chaos and starting to see how things will look is fun.

And the Lord said "Let there be sawdust in abundance. And He looked upon it and smiled, for it was not He that would have to sweep up."

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
The worst thing about dimensioning is thinking “I’m sweeping up and burn bagging $20 right now “

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Stultus Maximus posted:

The worst thing about dimensioning is thinking “I’m sweeping up and burn bagging $20 right now “

Nah, you're adding $20 of value to the boards by removing the bits that you can't use. That's why you pay more for pre-dimensioned lumber, after all.

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

The worst thing about dimensioning is when I don’t notice I’m getting blisters from my jack plane until it’s too late

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Bloody posted:

The worst thing about dimensioning is when I don’t notice I’m getting blisters from my jack plane until it’s too late

I took a rasp and file to my plane and saw totes and it's much better now.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I was getting fed up with the end of my 2.5" (nominal) shop vac hose slipping off the (idiotically) tapered end of my Dust Deputy bucket-top cyclone. The only reason I didn't buy the "Dust Deputy 2.5" improved cyclone was because I didn't want to send more money to the clowns that shipped the original with a tapered port on it.

Then I got a 3D printer. I found a model on Thingiverse that is shaped to fit the double taper on the original Dust Deputy and printed it. Light shone down upon my garage from in the heavens. After installing the 3D printed adapter I could tug on the hose and my wheeled shop vac would come toward me rather than just popping the end of the hose off the cyclone. Bless you linsomniac, whoever you are.

I have also printed a little insert to improve the already-good dust collection on my track saw. And some little pieces to hang up some battery chargers that didn't have wall-mounting keyholes cut into them.

Granite Octopus
Jun 24, 2008

I've got 15m of Japanese cypress (hinoki) coming in a few weeks. Primarily I wanted to make one of those little shower stools, but there will be heaps left over. What else would be a good use for it? A little bucket would be obvious but I don't think it would get much use...

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

This is a dumb and specific question, but are there any good sources online for reliably matching stain colors? I've been using GF pecan oil stain, but I have a thing I want to use a gel stain on and their in-store displays are not exactly reliable--the "nutmeg" I got came out not just darker than the example chips, but a completely different color.

tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Mar 14, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


tracecomplete posted:

This is a dumb and specific question, but are there any good sources online for reliably matching stain colors? I've been using GF pecan oil stain, but I have a thing I want to use a gel stain on and their in-store displays are not exactly reliable--the "nutmeg" I got came out not just darker than the example chips, but a completely different color.

Lol, nope. Stain colors seem to vary even within the same manufacturer between different types of stain and different woods obviously take them very differently. If you have a friendly and skilled local paint store they may be able to mix something more consistently for you.

E: also make sure you stir stain up really, really well. Stains that rely heavily on pigments can come out waaaay different if they aren’t well mixed.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Mar 14, 2023

Sono
Apr 9, 2008




Hypnolobster posted:

https://i.imgur.com/6fSkorW.mp4



:shrug:

if it's even longer and won't fit between the floor joists, I'll use the slot mortiser to cut box joints instead. Or just use different joinery.

I mean, you clearly have a saw and what's one less floor joist in the grand scheme of things?



Meow Meow Meow posted:

I built a cherry bedframe. I had built the headboard about five years ago and bolted it to a basic steel frame. I figured it was time to build the rest of the bed. There's a bit of contrast between the headboard and the footboard due to the wood darkening for the past few years, but that should even out with time.

Baking soda does the job quick. I also have a cherry headboard that's been waiting for the rest of the bed for a couple years.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Lol, nope. Stain colors seem to vary even within the same manufacturer between different types of stain and different woods obviously take them very differently. If you have a friendly and skilled local paint store they may be able to mix something more consistently for you.

E: also make sure you stir stain up really, really well. Stains that rely heavily on pigments can come out waaaay different if they aren’t well mixed.

Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I don't exactly want to buy another three cans to find that none of them match, so maybe I will use oil stain, but...argh.

And I do not have a friendly and skilled local paint store. I have a Woodcraft. :eng99:

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Granite Octopus posted:

I've got 15m of Japanese cypress (hinoki) coming in a few weeks. Primarily I wanted to make one of those little shower stools, but there will be heaps left over. What else would be a good use for it? A little bucket would be obvious but I don't think it would get much use...



I wish cedar that grew here looked like that. Build what you need. Bathroom medicine cabinet? Idk what your house needs.

fakedit- you said cypress didn't you. Derpin...

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Mr. Mambold posted:

I wish cedar that grew here looked like that. Build what you need. Bathroom medicine cabinet? Idk what your house needs.

fakedit- you said cypress didn't you. Derpin...

Well actually it’s close American.cousins are Port Orford Cedar and Atlantic white cedar and the genus it’s in is often called the false cypresses so….

The wood that gets called cypress in the US isn’t actually a true cypress (though it is in the cypress family, along with most of the woods that get called cedar in the US-the ‘true’ cedars being old-world and in the pine family), except it is because people call it that.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

I say this every time wood classification comes up, but gently caress you, Douglas.

Fake-rear end fir.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Leperflesh posted:


OK this was a bit pricey, they had it in a case:


I love dividers and these are made by Starrett, so they're quality,

To bring this back, I spotted a set of Pexto dividers in a massive pile of tools getting sold online. Asked the guy if I could pop by and grab those separate. He didn’t want anything for them if they were getting used, but threw $10 for coffee money at him anyway and walked away like a bandit for our purposes.







The Pexto’s that need a nut and a tightening screw. They’re cleaner than my work set, so that was my main goal.


And the tiny ones.


Schwing!

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery

tracecomplete posted:

This is a dumb and specific question, but are there any good sources online for reliably matching stain colors? I've been using GF pecan oil stain, but I have a thing I want to use a gel stain on and their in-store displays are not exactly reliable--the "nutmeg" I got came out not just darker than the example chips, but a completely different color.

You gotta do your own testing, stain is squirrely. Save an off-cut from your project for finish testing, even if you're not doing something that's adding a specific color because maybe you think "hm, what if I try <X> instead..." when you get to the finish step.
Thankfully stain isn't THAT expensive, and a little goes a long way.

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

drat, even the half pint cans of GF stains are pretty pricy. when I was trying to match some of the trim in our house I went around to a few places, bought a bunch of the little tiny cans, and then spent a few hours experimenting with various mixtures and techniques until I worked out something decent

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


In general you get a more consistent color between different boards/species if you layer multiple stains so you might try that. This is especially true with dyes, but also true with pigment stains. You can cut oil stain with mineral spirits to lighten them so it doesn’t get too dark. You might find a first coat of very diluted provincial and then 3/4 strength pecan or w/e may give better results than just slapping a coat of pecan on.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Sockington posted:

To bring this back, I spotted a set of Pexto dividers in a massive pile of tools getting sold online. Asked the guy if I could pop by and grab those separate. He didn’t want anything for them if they were getting used, but threw $10 for coffee money at him anyway and walked away like a bandit for our purposes.
...
Schwing!

ooooo

The last little ones were owned by karl jung, obviously yes I know it's carl jung hush
I hope you can find original parts for the Pexto!

e. actually carl jung's grandfather was karl jung so it's definitely him

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass

Sockington posted:

To bring this back, I spotted a set of Pexto dividers in a massive pile of tools getting sold online. Asked the guy if I could pop by and grab those separate. He didn’t want anything for them if they were getting used, but threw $10 for coffee money at him anyway and walked away like a bandit for our purposes.







The Pexto’s that need a nut and a tightening screw. They’re cleaner than my work set, so that was my main goal.


And the tiny ones.


Schwing!

That's a nice score. I have some old Moore & Wright small dividers I picked up a while ago, nice tools.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

Baby level post compared to much of the other stuff itt but, My :effort: walnut tables and shelves, which were very simple projects consisting of cut, sand, finish, and screw on hardware, turned out very nicely. Mainly posting to say I switched from water to oil based polyurethane and it is a million times nicer, oil 4eva

The entryway shelf:




The table:

alnilam fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Mar 14, 2023

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
My house came with leftover cans of paint and stain, including a 1/2 pint and quart of stain, one in I think Golden Oak, and the other Colonial maple. It stands to reason that the actual stain applied to a lot of my woodwork is some combination of those two, but I'll be damned if I'm ready to make that leap. I've actually got a few spots in the house where I need to stain some oak and put it up to match the trim, and I'm just kind of paralyzed by doing that color matching.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

FISHMANPET posted:

My house came with leftover cans of paint and stain, including a 1/2 pint and quart of stain, one in I think Golden Oak, and the other Colonial maple. It stands to reason that the actual stain applied to a lot of my woodwork is some combination of those two, but I'll be damned if I'm ready to make that leap. I've actually got a few spots in the house where I need to stain some oak and put it up to match the trim, and I'm just kind of paralyzed by doing that color matching.

If your hardwood runs into closets, do your testing in the back corner of a closet. We did that and we have a plank in one closet that is stained different from the rest of the house.

e. wait you're just staining replacement trim? Just do some test pieces. You'll probably manage "close enough" and the light will fall on trim slightly differently than flooring so you can get away with it if it's just very close.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Breaking down and milling stock at the beginning of a project is one of may favorite parts. Bringing order to chaos and starting to see how things will look is fun.

can be fun except on days like today, when I cut into the last of my cherry stock and find out that it's more of a thin shell of clear wood wrapped around a wormhole pinata

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

Leperflesh posted:

If your hardwood runs into closets, do your testing in the back corner of a closet. We did that and we have a plank in one closet that is stained different from the rest of the house.

e. wait you're just staining replacement trim? Just do some test pieces. You'll probably manage "close enough" and the light will fall on trim slightly differently than flooring so you can get away with it if it's just very close.

It won't be hard but this is the kind of open-ended ambiguous task that is a perfect foil to my ADHD, so instead I just ignore it forever.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

i just follow the wisdom of my ancestors on interior color matching and unscrew lightbulbs until it looks good

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

alnilam posted:

Mainly posting to say I switched from water to oil based polyurethane and it is a million times nicer, oil 4eva

Which one? General Finishes' water based poly is amazing.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

FISHMANPET posted:

It won't be hard but this is the kind of open-ended ambiguous task that is a perfect foil to my ADHD, so instead I just ignore it forever.

Ohhhh, yeah I got you, I have projects I started 20 years ago still sitting around unfinished so I feel that completely!

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

Wallet posted:

Which one? General Finishes' water based poly is amazing.

Oh I'm working with what they have at the tru value down the block so I'm comparing Minwax water based, which was okay but a little milky and bubbly and hard to get even, vs Minwax premium oil based, which looks warm and amazing and went on like a dream

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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Leperflesh posted:

Ohhhh, yeah I got you, I have projects I started 20 years ago still sitting around unfinished so I feel that completely!

A small house is the only thing saving me from this.

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