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Bobby Fingers done went and snuck out another one on us. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHi479xN_po
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Mar 18, 2023 02:07
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My finger dexterity is good enough but drat are my hands shaky.
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Mar 18, 2023 08:55
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FPyat posted:My finger dexterity is good enough but drat are my hands shaky. I was doing some hand touch ups tonight and my fingers were rock steady. A short while later I was doing some panel lining, and my fingers were like seismometer needles in an earthquake.
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Mar 18, 2023 10:13
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Hand tremors run in my family, so it's only a matter of time before my dexterity goes to poo poo. I find that my diet has a lot to do with how bad my hands shake. Coffee or a sugary breakfast make it infinitely worse. Cut back on that and I'm a-ok.
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Mar 18, 2023 13:53
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Bobby Fingers done went and snuck out another one on us. It's going to be tough to top this one, but I'm sure he will.
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Mar 18, 2023 14:16
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I hope this is the right thread to ask but I’d like to start doing monster model kits but I’m not really sure where to even start. Are there any resources or books or videos for a complete and utter beginner out there I can look over to see both the kinds of tools I’ll need as well as construction and painting tips?
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Mar 19, 2023 15:53
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Dr. VooDoo posted:I hope this is the right thread to ask but I’d like to start doing monster model kits but I’m not really sure where to even start. Are there any resources or books or videos for a complete and utter beginner out there I can look over to see both the kinds of tools I’ll need as well as construction and painting tips? Go check out The Clubhouse. Sign up for a forums account there, and you'll have years of peoples posts with tips and tricks and displays of their garage kits. Best resource on the internet for painting statues and busts of pop culture characters. They also having an amazing marketplace section where you can pick up limited run garage kits that you won't find anywhere else in the world. If you want something a bit different, you could give Amazing Figure Modeler magazine a look. They're no longer a print mag, but they still put out PDF mags quarterly. Top quality work on display, and every article is an exhaustive how-to guide on how the artist created the model on display. They also sell the old ModelMania DVD's. Obviously old and low-res as hell by todays standards, but they're a fun and informative resource where David Fisher teaches you the basics and advanced techniques for constructing and painting kits.
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Mar 19, 2023 22:33
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Go check out The Clubhouse. Sign up for a forums account there, and you'll have years of peoples posts with tips and tricks and displays of their garage kits. Best resource on the internet for painting statues and busts of pop culture characters. They also having an amazing marketplace section where you can pick up limited run garage kits that you won't find anywhere else in the world. Thanks! I did end up ordering that DVD just cause seeing it visually, even if dated, helps me learn better
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Mar 20, 2023 01:51
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Does anyone have a recommended brand of clear gloss and matte coats for airbrushing? I've been playing with decanting Mr. Hobby UV cut gloss and matte, but even factoring in vacuum chamber degassing I think whatever propellant they use makes it particularly fizzy, which causes problems when feeding it through my brushes. Ideally whatever it is ends up being lacquer based, since I've got tons of lacquer thinner laying around.
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Mar 20, 2023 04:01
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Warmachine posted:Does anyone have a recommended brand of clear gloss and matte coats for airbrushing? I've been playing with decanting Mr. Hobby UV cut gloss and matte, but even factoring in vacuum chamber degassing I think whatever propellant they use makes it particularly fizzy, which causes problems when feeding it through my brushes. I don't use lacquers, but have been using Vallejo Mecha varnishes. I'm sure there's something better out there, but I have bottles of gloss, matte, and satin that will probably last me long enough
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Mar 20, 2023 04:10
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Warmachine posted:Does anyone have a recommended brand of clear gloss and matte coats for airbrushing? I've been playing with decanting Mr. Hobby UV cut gloss and matte, but even factoring in vacuum chamber degassing I think whatever propellant they use makes it particularly fizzy, which causes problems when feeding it through my brushes. Tamiya lacquer clears in the jars were my absolute favs for airbrushing. Mr Hobby also makes clear lacquers in jars so you dont have to decant anything. And if you don't want lacquers, Tamiya also makes clear acrylics that are solvent based so you can thin them really nicely with lacquer thinners.
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Mar 20, 2023 06:31
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Think the best I've used was tamiya's x-22 with mr hobby leveling thinners. I have also used zero paints premixed clear but it's a touch on the hot side and needs a careful hand to avoid it eating decals and the plastic of the model.
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Mar 20, 2023 09:19
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Warmachine posted:Does anyone have a recommended brand of clear gloss and matte coats for airbrushing? I've been playing with decanting Mr. Hobby UV cut gloss and matte, but even factoring in vacuum chamber degassing I think whatever propellant they use makes it particularly fizzy, which causes problems when feeding it through my brushes. If you're comfortable shooting lacquers, might as well use the Mr. Color jars of clear (gloss/semi/flat). You'll probably get better results using Mr. Color Leveling Thinner to thin it down for spraying than using lacquer thinner to thin it. Save the lacquer thinner for cleanup.
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Mar 20, 2023 18:22
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I dug an old Aurora 1911 Buick kit out and finally put it together. It came from a flea market for ten bucks or less. The guy selling it had tried to put it together but had immediately broken one piece, glued another large piece backwards and then gave up. The kit had a lot of pieces that almost fit together and needed help to work. If there were any decals they were long gone but I may make something later. 
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Mar 20, 2023 19:21
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So after spending a not insignificant amount of time trying to rectify the issues with the tracks it turns out they’re actually the wrong brand and aren’t compatible with my running gear. Which is a bit of a surprise and I’d be a lot more pissed off if I hadn’t purchased them 13 years ago. The tracks work because they’re much looser than they should be, which leads to all sorts of problems of its own, but as soon as I get the tension to what it should be the tracks run extremely poorly, and now I can see why. I noticed that the spare track links attached to the turret are the plastic versions of the correct track, so I got a spare metal link of mine to compare.   Quite a difference and it frankly explains a lot. I’ve got my fiancées birthday coming up so it will have to wait until the start of next month, but I’ll be picking up a set of the correct metal tracks. These are also pre-blackened so I don’t have to worry about burnishing them either. I have to admit it is rather humorous that the interleaved wheels and complex parts make maintenance far harder than it needs to be, just like the real one. However I’ve found another issue. The zimmerit is extremely prone to damage and when the paint comes off it leaves very obvious white latex underneath. Spray on varnish was no help at all, so I attempted to resolve this using a hard paint on varnish (‘ardcoat), and while it’s helped a bit the problem persists. Most areas with zimmerit on never come into physical contact with anything so it’s not an issue, but one area particularly affected is the lower front plate. I opted to prevent the problem going forward by installing the front track holder, which I left off previously as I didn’t fancy drilling holes in the zimmerit sheets I’d applied.  The process is fairly intensive as I needed to remove the gearboxes to properly drill the holes back through, and I also had to cut parts of the bracket off to fit properly as I’d added transmission covers to the model. I was also concerned that if I screwed this up, there was now two massive holes in the front hull which would be difficult to rectify. You can see here the torsion bar suspension with the gearboxes and mounting plate removed.  Personally I think the Tiger does look better with the track on the front, and now anything that touches the hull strikes the track instead of the zimmerit.   I also settled on decals and went with the 502nd heavy panzer battalion, Tiger number 217. There were some other options but the numbers wouldn’t have shown up too well against my colour scheme. The decals should be arriving from Germany within the next week or so.
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Mar 21, 2023 00:11
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Mar 21, 2023 00:15
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Lord Ludikrous posted:However I’ve found another issue. The zimmerit is extremely prone to damage and when the paint comes off it leaves very obvious white latex underneath. Spray on varnish was no help at all, so I attempted to resolve this using a hard paint on varnish (‘ardcoat), and while it’s helped a bit the problem persists. Reaper Bones miniatures, in the first few rounds, had an issue where using rattlecan primer or colour or even varnish would cause the plastic to become permanently sticky, with the paint never drying, no matter how much paint or sealer you used. My 100% effective solution to the problem was to use this polymer matt varnish medium, which also turns out to be exceptionally tough and flexible.
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Mar 21, 2023 05:28
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What’s a good compressor/air brush combo for a beginner? I don’t wanna buy junk that I’ll have to replace for better stuff in like a month but I also don’t need like a $1,000 top of the line airbrush either since I’m just starting
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Mar 22, 2023 12:43
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Dr. VooDoo posted:What’s a good compressor/air brush combo for a beginner? I don’t wanna buy junk that I’ll have to replace for better stuff in like a month but I also don’t need like a $1,000 top of the line airbrush either since I’m just starting https://www.amazon.com/BLOpens-Fant...ps%2C181&sr=8-4
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Mar 22, 2023 12:45
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Dr. VooDoo posted:What’s a good compressor/air brush combo for a beginner? I don’t wanna buy junk that I’ll have to replace for better stuff in like a month but I also don’t need like a $1,000 top of the line airbrush either since I’m just starting More seriously, this has pretty much everything you need. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B002KSQHB6?th=1 Compressor, tank, regulator, moisture trap, and a passable brush. It's what I started on. The only things I've done is buy more brushes. I have 4 now--the brush that came with this kit, a similarly cheap pistol-trigger style brush, an Iwata Neo and a Badger Sotar. I'd recommend getting a spray-out pot as well, and looking into what you can do for a spray booth. There are lots of DIY booth guides out there--my starter booth was a rubbermaid container and furnace filter strapped to a bathroom fan 
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Mar 22, 2023 14:07
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Most low cost compressors are all the same, they're all made in china under different names, if you're just using them for hobby stuff they'll probably last longer than you will. The TC40T with a tank is what I have, and I've been using it for like 7 years. https://a.co/d/3bvII5i Get one with a tank, although they're not strictly necessary, it's just a few bucks more to reduce the running time and give you an extra bit of moisture protection.
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Mar 22, 2023 14:07
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Warmachine posted:More seriously, this has pretty much everything you need. The difference between "has no airbrush" and "has a $40 airbrush" is incredible, and I feel like I'm learning more because I'm not really afraid of loving up the airbrush, which I would be if I started with a $200 one. I've already learned some important lessons about cleaning without being stressed that I wrecked something expensive. Having said that, I'll eventually get something nicer. Despite it being a dual action brush, it's more realistically "spray/no spray" because there is an extremely limited range between no air and all the air and a very tight curve of the needle being all the way closed and as open as it's going to get.
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Mar 22, 2023 14:38
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Warmachine posted:More seriously, this has pretty much everything you need. Lol the old standard. I have the tankless version and it works fine. It's quiet enough that the thing running isn't really a problem, but if I could do things over I'd get this version. The brush isn't the best, but it gets the job done and it's still my go-to for laying down primer and stuff like that. Instead of a booth, I use cheapo plastic drop cloths, some magnets, and the top of my washing machine.
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Mar 22, 2023 14:48
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Seconding everyone above's recommendations. The generic name for that compressor is AS186 - get the one with a tank so the pump doesn't have to run all the time. I got started with one along with a no-name airbrush which I'm sure is the same as the Master/Sparmax type brushes. Despite now having a Badger Xtreme Patriot, Mr Hobby Procon Boy and a bunch of others, I still use that original one fairly regularly for priming and doing clear coats. It's very easy to clean and nowhere near as fragile as my more expensive airbrushes. You can get generic replacement parts for them fairly easily, and you can improve their performance by polishing the needles with very fine sandpaper.
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Mar 22, 2023 15:06
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Dang, thanks everyone for all the advice. Hoping to get my tools this week with a nice work bonus coming my way
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Mar 22, 2023 15:07
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And there it is! Gratefully only one AA gun missing. Onwards to the Fuso.
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Mar 22, 2023 15:08
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tidal wave emulator posted:you can improve their performance by polishing the needles with very fine sandpaper.  Going to give this a try and see what I can pull off. I think I've got up to 2500 grit out in the garage.
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Mar 22, 2023 15:12
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My experience is doing it with 0.5mm needles which are a bit chunkier and more difficult to break. Make sure you don't push the needle forward while you're sanding it in case the tip gets caught. It's roughly the same principle as the Sharpenair which fixes bent needles by sanding them against progressively finer grinding stones
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Mar 22, 2023 15:22
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Can anyone give me the Russian and Japanese ship colour schemes for around the Russo-Japanese war? If there's anything other than just 'battleship grey' then I'm all ears!
Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Mar 22, 2023 |
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Mar 22, 2023 17:01
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Southern Heel posted:Can anyone give me the Russian and Japanese ship colour schemes for around the Russo-Japanese war? If there's anything other than just 'battleship grey' then I'm all ears! I dunno if it's their original schemes, but Mikasa and Aurora are both lighter grey that I'd think of as "battleship grey". To my eye, at least. Also instead of red below the waterline, Aurora is green, which is kinda neat to me
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Mar 22, 2023 17:08
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Cthulu Carl posted:I dunno if it's their original schemes, but Mikasa and Aurora are both lighter grey that I'd think of as "battleship grey". To my eye, at least. Also instead of red below the waterline, Aurora is green, which is kinda neat to me I should clarify I'm initially looking at the ships of the Battle of Ulsan initially: Gromoboi Rurik Rossiya Izumo Iwate Azuma Tokiwa Naniwa Takachiho. I'm guessing this colourised photo showing cream, duck-egg and burgundy may well be freelance? https://www.flickr.com/photos/88198496@N04/39445411872 This picture of Asama shows it in black and white: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_cruiser_Asama#/media/File:Asama1902.jpg Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Mar 22, 2023 |
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Mar 22, 2023 17:16
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Lol the old standard. That's exactly what I use that brush for, though it gets very little actual use these days because the pistol-grip version is so much more comfortable to use for that. The Sotar is my workhorse, since I'm primarily doing Gunpla in 1:144 scale. So lots of small fiddly bits which is where the Sotar excels. It draws fine lines and other small work like a goddamn dream, to the point where I kinda shocked myself freehanding some work and only needed a couple minor hand touch ups after. I bought the thing in my initial manic hobby purchases during my 2015 internship and I could not be happier.
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Mar 22, 2023 17:28
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Southern Heel posted:I should clarify I'm initially looking at the ships of the Battle of Ulsan initially: My mind just went to Mikasa and Aurora since they're still around. I wonder if there's any paintings of the ships from that time? The wiki on that battle has a postcard, but it's all reds and greens and I'm guessing that's just the printing process and not meant as real colors. No pics, but I did find this painting guide for Russian and Japanese pre-dreadnought ships http://www.wtj.com/store/index_paint_guide_hist-paint.html Cthulu Carl fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Mar 22, 2023 |
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Mar 22, 2023 17:28
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The instructions for the Seals Model Izumo kit indicate Mr Color C325 (FS26440) for the ship as-built, black + C325 until 1902 and then C32 (Dark Gray 2 Yokosuka Arsenal) from January 1904 onwards - so you probably want C32.
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Mar 22, 2023 17:37
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That's very kind, thank you! It correlates with this link that I found with some digging: http://smmlonline.com/articles/ijncoloursmeijera/ijncamomeji.html Does anyone have the same for the Imperial Russian Navy? I'm happy to fudge dates around to get some distinction between them, as the target of these schemes are opposing ships in a miniature wargame. It looks like the white hull/superstructure with yellow funnels and green under the waterline was one option, as was white/black with yellow funnels, or even all-over black with yellow funnels? https://russiatrek.org/blog/army/colorized-photos-of-the-russian-imperial-fleet/ ? I also see there were some Pacific Squadron ships in degraded black paint which went brown, and some which were painted in olive drab? https://sites.google.com/a/coldie.net/thomo-s-notes/Home/Wargaming/Russian-Japanese-War-of-1904-1905---Naval Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Mar 22, 2023 |
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Mar 22, 2023 18:05
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Regarding air compressors, if noise isn't a concern and you think you might want to use it for things other than airbrushing, I'd recommend a regular air compressor with a decent sized tank. You absolutely do not need to buy an airbrush specific compressor for airbrushing. I've been using one similar to this 6 gallon Dewalt ($151) for a few years and it works great for airbrushing as well as pumping up tires, blowing off my woodworking/machining tools, blowing the dust out of my computer, etc.
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Mar 22, 2023 18:35
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I do have one for regular tool use like a nail gun but it couldn’t stay where my model station is gonna be, it’s super heavy to drag up two sets of stairs, and it’s very loud and upsets my dog so I’m gonna get one I can keep with my other tools
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Mar 22, 2023 19:23
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You could also go with a CO2 tank. No worries about water in the lines, silent and rechargeable. For starters you can go with a small paintball or portable pneumatic tank. I got a set at Lowes that had one 20 oz. and two 10 oz. Depending on how much you spray, they can last a while. I don't have to get them refilled often, but I go to a sporting goods store that does paintball refills and its pretty cheap. A step up from that would be a soda charger tank. They start at around $50 for a five pound tank. You might need to fiddle around a bit with an adapter for your brush, but once you have that you're set. I use the standard quick connect at the tank end of the hose.
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Mar 22, 2023 19:39
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Do make sure you have plenty of ventilation if you’re using CO2
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Mar 22, 2023 20:15
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Fortunately, our bodies are set to detect excess CO2 instead of low O2. You could breathe pure N2 and not realize it until you dropped, but let the CO2 levels get a little high and you start getting the "I need to breathe!" reaction.
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Mar 22, 2023 20:18
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