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There's also portable battery powered airbrush compressors like this Airbrush Kit with Compressor,Cordless Air Brush Set for Painting,32 PSI,Gravity Feeding,0.3 mm Tip,3 Levels, Ideal for Model,Miniature,Nail,Tattoo,Art,Barber;Double as Portable Mini Airbrushes https://a.co/d/egyrXlC They aren't really adjustable for PSI but they are super low volume.
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Mar 23, 2023 01:14
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Crossposting from the Historical Miniatures thread:Southern Heel posted:Bloody heck, that was quick - Tumbling Dice 1/2400 arrived already. I decided to add spars and the faintest outline of rigging: My plan is to paint both forces with their Pre-1904 colours to make them a bit more interesting on the table - IJN in black/white/black, and the Russian Navy in white/ochre or black/cinnamon brown (to represent the shoddy materials available to the Pacific Squadron for painting black which faded almost immediately). In a previous life I put together a 1/350 kit for HMS Dreadnought, and this most recent venture into naval models has whetted my appetite again for naval scale modelling. Can anyone advise on a nice battleship kit (British, European, Japanese)? I'm happy to buy some details here and there such as turned gun barrels but I don't want to spend £hundreds on aftermarket parts to make the kit usable. Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Mar 23, 2023 |
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Mar 23, 2023 08:40
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Southern Heel posted:In a previous life I put together a 1/350 kit for HMS Dreadnought, and this most recent venture into naval models has whetted my appetite again for naval scale modelling. Can anyone advise on a nice battleship kit (British, European, Japanese)? I'm happy to buy some details here and there such as turned gun barrels but I don't want to spend £hundreds on aftermarket parts to make the kit usable. If we're talking 1/700 then without question Flyhawk, they specialise in British and German subjects, and have a great selection of dreadnoughts as well as WW2 battleships. Their quality is unmatched. After that Trumpeter have the biggest selection, but their quality doesn't match Flyhawk. Flyhawk kits either come as basic kits (still very good quality, usually a small amount of etch) or 'deluxe' which have sheets and sheets of etch, brass barrels, resin etc. They also release big rear end aftermarket sets for most other manufacturers' ship kits that come with all the goodies but typically cost the same or more than the kit itself. Off the top of my head (as I peer through my stash) WW1 dreadnought-wise Flyhawk they do HMS Agincourt, HMS Invincible and HMS Iron Duke, and battlecruisers SMS Derflinger and SMS Luetzow, and they reboxed ICM's SMS Konig which I recently finished. Their sub/sister brand Kajika do a WW1 era IJN Kongo (I believe there are political difficulties around Chinese companies like Flyhawk directly releasing Japanese subjects). They do all the old WW2 European favourites like Bismarck, Prince of Wales, Hood etc. Any that they don't cover, Trumpeter will (and there'll be a Flyhawk aftermarket set for them...) For Japanese subjects the best bet these days is anything Fujimi have tooled in the last 15-20 years or so - they've pretty much got the whole WW2 IJN battleship (and heavy cruiser etc) lineup covered - Yamato, Kongo, Nagato, Fuso, Ise, Hiei etc. Most of their kits come without etch (unless you get one of their rare first-release boxings) but the quality is excellent anyway. Aoshima cover a lot of the same subjects. I can't speak to 1/350 so much as it's not my scale, and Flyhawk don't really dabble in that, but your options will be more limited and wallet much emptier!
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Mar 23, 2023 12:27
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I had not considered 1/700, honestly - and that's not a bad shout for larger ships, indeed. Where should I be looking at buying Flyhawk? There seem to be many vendors on AliExpress at one price, and then twice the price for UK (resellers)? I guess I'm a bit torn because the 1/350 HMS Dreadnought I had was about the right size (~40cm) and is pretty much the epitome of what I want to see in a ship, but I've already built it and had to dispose of it in due course. Maybe I should buy and give it another bash - does anyone have recommendation? I see there are Trumpeter 1907/1914/1918, Zvezda and Revell!? Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Mar 23, 2023 |
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Mar 23, 2023 15:21
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Southern Heel posted:I had not considered 1/700, honestly - and that's not a bad shout for larger ships, indeed. Where should I be looking at buying Flyhawk? There seem to be many vendors on AliExpress at one price, and then twice the price for UK (resellers)? Per scalemates the Revell one is a reboxing of the Zvezda one
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Mar 23, 2023 15:58
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Southern Heel posted:I had not considered 1/700, honestly - and that's not a bad shout for larger ships, indeed. Where should I be looking at buying Flyhawk? There seem to be many vendors on AliExpress at one price, and then twice the price for UK (resellers)? Jadlam in the UK has a load of Flyhawk listed for pre-order (I'm going to get a Hood off them), but Starling Models stocks them too. I like to support Starling as they're a one-man-operation and there's very few other specialised ship model retailers around. I usually buy Flyhawk from eBay - sellers like Dawngrocerystore and Sunflower939 (they're probably selling on AliExpress too). I believe both are closely associated with Flyhawk, from msging Sunflower939 they appear to be the factory producing and boxing up Flyhawk's kits and selling some directly on the side, if not actually Flyhawk themselves. quote:
Trumpeter is probably your best bet there in 1/350. The Revell kit is just Zvezda's reboxed (e;fb)
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Mar 23, 2023 16:35
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Thank you - since I bought Zvezda/Revell before I guess I'll go with Trumpeter this time? I'll also take a closer look at Starling Models. For my Russo-Japanese fleet I'm mostly happy, though they do need a little highlighting and touching up: 
Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Mar 23, 2023 |
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Mar 23, 2023 17:24
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Right, I decided to order the Trumpeter 1/350 HMS Dreadnought in 1907 condition with Eduard photoetch railings and detail parts, Master Arms turned gun barrels and a wooden deck. In for a penny...
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Mar 23, 2023 18:53
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Last dumb idiot babby question: is there a good break down of the tools I should be picking up to start scale modeling? I'm off tomorrow so I'd like to hit up my local hobby store to start on the path of making scaled monsters
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Mar 24, 2023 01:22
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I think glue is up there
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Mar 24, 2023 01:27
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Last dumb idiot babby question: is there a good break down of the tools I should be picking up to start scale modeling? I'm off tomorrow so I'd like to hit up my local hobby store to start on the path of making scaled monsters No model shop is complete without this tool*!  *not complete without spending 2x more on bits and accessories.
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Mar 24, 2023 01:29
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Last dumb idiot babby question: is there a good break down of the tools I should be picking up to start scale modeling? I'm off tomorrow so I'd like to hit up my local hobby store to start on the path of making scaled monsters Honesty it's probably just easier to search it on YouTube. There's tons of videos for beginners.
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Mar 24, 2023 02:20
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Last dumb idiot babby question: is there a good break down of the tools I should be picking up to start scale modeling? I'm off tomorrow so I'd like to hit up my local hobby store to start on the path of making scaled monsters A decent, but not very expensive set of nippers - the really nice ones break easily, which you will definitely do when you're starting out. Plastic cement. Go to a beauty supply store and get some glass files to take down the nubs your nippers leave. Maybe some superglue if you're going to be messing with photoetch. You'll probably need a hobby knife or scalpel at some point.
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Mar 24, 2023 02:32
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There's a pretty good starting list on the first page of the thread.
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Mar 24, 2023 05:23
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Speaking of equipment: does anybody outside of the “YouTube modelling community” use, either black or flexible superglue?
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Mar 24, 2023 08:41
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Southern Heel posted:Speaking of equipment: does anybody outside of the “YouTube modelling community” use, either black or flexible superglue? I've tried it. It doesn't seem superior to more conventional methods for any application I've seen. YMMV.
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Mar 24, 2023 12:02
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Southern Heel posted:Speaking of equipment: does anybody outside of the “YouTube modelling community” use, either black or flexible superglue? I've started to use the VMS black "flexy" superglue for photoetch and small parts like pitot tubes and places like landing gear joints where I would like some more strength. I'm finishing up Eduard's F4F-4 Wildcat and the landing gear is delicate and finicky, so I've flowed in some of the VMS superglue into key joints to hopefully shore things up a bit. Ejector pin marks are where people recommend using this type of glue to fill because it is more readily sandable than straight superglue without being much harder than the surrounding plastic, but I haven't tried that yet.
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Mar 24, 2023 12:10
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Ah, that makes sense. Does anyone have an equivalent to Tamiya white putty in the UK? It seems to be unobtainable here and I’m looking for something that is a single part putty that can be sanded to a highly smooth finish? Vallejo plastic putty is OK but doesn’t sand as thinly without tearing EDIT: it looks like it’s available again, so I’ve ordered some AK white putty. Cheers! Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Mar 24, 2023 |
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Mar 24, 2023 12:36
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Last dumb idiot babby question: is there a good break down of the tools I should be picking up to start scale modeling? I'm off tomorrow so I'd like to hit up my local hobby store to start on the path of making scaled monsters My basics would be: - A pair of nippers - Craft knife with spare blades - Sanding sticks/sponges, or alternatively a few different grades of emery boards (so you can clean up, sand down and polish away the leftover sprue nubs) - Plastic cement - Tamiya Extra Thin, don't bother with squidgy tube cement (bear in mind that you use TET by holding the parts together and brushing it along the seam rather than applying it directly to a surface and sticking another part onto it) - Cocktail sticks/wooden toothpicks and Q-tips/ear buds - these have a million different uses so are always handy to have around - Superglue if you're going to be working with anything other than regular kit plastic
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Mar 24, 2023 13:04
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I think basic model stuff has been covered pretty well. A lot of things you won't know you need until you need it. Since I'm trying to expand into dioramas and terrain, this YouTube video I found last night felt like a pretty good rundown for scene creation needs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pGLE8mjjRE
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Mar 24, 2023 13:50
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I'm going to go on a limb here and say a pin vise and assortment of small drill bits is a must have tool even for a beginner. It can often make the difference between pin A fitting into slot B or not.
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Mar 24, 2023 14:14
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Southern Heel posted:Speaking of equipment: does anybody outside of the “YouTube modelling community” use, either black or flexible superglue? I got a bottle of the BSI black superglue for something at work a couple years ago. Sorry, I can't remember what it was, but there was something I didn't like about it. After using it, I had no urge to purchase a bottle for myself for modeling. Sorry so vague.
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Mar 24, 2023 14:16
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tidal wave emulator posted:- Plastic cement - Tamiya Extra Thin, don't bother with squidgy tube cement (bear in mind that you use TET by holding the parts together and brushing it along the seam rather than applying it directly to a surface and sticking another part onto it) I use an additional tube of Revell Contacta professional with the needle applicator for bigger parts as you can apply the glue before putting the parts together along with TET for smaller parts. Mainly useful for two part wings that need to be clamped together. Also I got a bag of matchsticks for stirring paints and various other purposes. As for clamping: good washcloth pins are a decent substitute if you don't have clamps.
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Mar 24, 2023 14:30
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Southern Heel posted:Speaking of equipment: does anybody outside of the “YouTube modelling community” use, either black or flexible superglue? Somehow I've missed this post. I've used flexible precisely once--when repairing a friend's John Snow action figure. I used it in combination with a metal pin to fix the wrist that had sheared off when it fell from a shelf. I'd say its primary use is to get a bond in a place that might get more stress than other parts and you need it to be able to give a little without snapping, since the key downside to stiff CA bonds is that they are very brittle. No idea about black though. The video I linked on diorama tools suggests some black-dyed mod podge but that's kinda the terrain equivalent of a bottle of Mr. Surfacer 500. I have a hard time seeing a use for colored glue in general because if the color is going to be visible after everything else is done, I feel like I've probably done something wrong.
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Mar 24, 2023 19:11
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I've got a bottle of the black rubberized BSI. It's fine. I've been sticking PE together and magnetizing minis without complaint, but I also wouldn't describe it as particularly flexible compared to regular CA.
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Mar 24, 2023 19:47
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Has anyone used the UV-activated glue that comes in a wee pen with a light on the end? At my model club this month the topic for the evening was "glues and adhesives" and one of the guys was going on about how useful this stuff is as it gives you a lot of time to set the part in place then immediately fix it with the UV light.
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Mar 24, 2023 21:28
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tidal wave emulator posted:Has anyone used the UV-activated glue that comes in a wee pen with a light on the end? At my model club this month the topic for the evening was "glues and adhesives" and one of the guys was going on about how useful this stuff is as it gives you a lot of time to set the part in place then immediately fix it with the UV light. I've used it a bit before, and it's okay. It's really only for tacking light stuff in place, the cured bond has very little real strength. Honestly though, the biggest turn off is the stuff STINKS. And not like styrene cement or gasoline stinks in a noxious but somehow slightly pleasant way, it's just smells loving awful. I tossed mine before finishing the tube because of the smell.
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Mar 25, 2023 00:33
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I've used it a bit before, and it's okay. It's really only for tacking light stuff in place, the cured bond has very little real strength. Honestly though, the biggest turn off is the stuff STINKS. And not like styrene cement or gasoline stinks in a noxious but somehow slightly pleasant way, it's just smells loving awful. I tossed mine before finishing the tube because of the smell. yeah I've never used it as glue, but I don't see how it would be all that strong, since it only cures when exposed to light, anything that's between two surfaces isn't going to cure, and if it's laid down too thick it's going to be uncured in the middle.
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Mar 25, 2023 05:56
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tidal wave emulator posted:Has anyone used the UV-activated glue that comes in a wee pen with a light on the end? At my model club this month the topic for the evening was "glues and adhesives" and one of the guys was going on about how useful this stuff is as it gives you a lot of time to set the part in place then immediately fix it with the UV light. I've used it quite extensively and Im a fan. I've only done car models but it's extremely useful for getting windshields and other clear parts in place. Like you said it gives you time to position the part or even tape it in place and then just zap it with the light and it's rock solid. And no hazing either since it isn't CA. My recommendation is get a UV light that is either rechargable or takes replaceable batteries. Some kits have a light with a built in battery that you can't replace so it makes it more expensive in the long run since you have to replace the light itself periodically.
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Mar 25, 2023 15:11
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Went and got all my supplies from my local hobby shop, which was super friendly and helpful. Got an airbrush, compressor, paints, thinner, primer, self healing cutting mat and all tools I had been suggested Think I’ve got everything so I’m setting up my space now to do a low skill phantom of the opera model. Just wanted to say thanks for everyone here answering so many of my questions, it was super helpful
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Mar 25, 2023 16:37
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We've got him, boys! HA HAHAHAH HA! You'll never escape the grip of modelling now!
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Mar 25, 2023 22:59
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One of us! One of us!
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Mar 25, 2023 23:25
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Went and got all my supplies from my local hobby shop, which was super friendly and helpful. Got an airbrush, compressor, paints, thinner, primer, self healing cutting mat and all tools I had been suggested May the carpet monster be kind to you.
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Mar 25, 2023 23:45
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Charliegrs posted:May the carpet monster be kind to you. Carpet Monster taketh and Carpet Monster giveth. I stepped on something painful recently, and it turned out to be a part from a kit I did two years ago.
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Mar 26, 2023 01:31
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Think I’ve got everything so I’m setting up my space now to do a low skill phantom of the opera model. Just wanted to say thanks for everyone here answering so many of my questions, it was super helpful Please post pictures of your phantom of the opera thing. I'm confused and intrigued.
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Mar 26, 2023 02:10
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I'm betting it's the Atlantis reissue of the old 60's kit from Aurora. 
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Mar 26, 2023 02:24
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Yeah, that’s it. I wanna do monster and horror figures, I know it’s lame sorry 
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Mar 26, 2023 02:49
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You started at “Scale Models,” I wouldn’t worry about reaching ”lame.”
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Mar 26, 2023 03:14
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Yeah, that’s it. I wanna do monster and horror figures, I know it’s lame sorry
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Mar 26, 2023 03:19
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Yeah, that’s it. I wanna do monster and horror figures, I know it’s lame sorry Lame poo poo, in the scale model thread? Say it ain’t so. Now let’s get into a detail over which nippers are best.
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Mar 26, 2023 04:44
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