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Set their homepage to pornhub. Set Google Chrome safety to maxxx. You can install a policy on their computer as well to prevent stuff from being installed. https://support.google.com/chrome/a/answer/9037717?hl=en Then make them not an administrator.
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Mar 22, 2023 16:28
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Fix It Fast: I've seen more porn in the past year than he has in his life
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Mar 22, 2023 16:43
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Anybody have a good way to remove Liquid Nails/construction adhesive from a steel bathtub, while retaining the finish? I’d like to blame the drywallers but really the fault lies with me for not covering the tub adequately
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Mar 22, 2023 19:26
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I think a heat gun will soften Liquid Nails. Not sure what it will do to the finish on your bathtub tho.
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Mar 22, 2023 19:30
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If it's ceramic coated cast iron, not a drat thing until it's at least a thousand degrees
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Mar 23, 2023 00:05
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withak posted:I think a heat gun will soften Liquid Nails. Not sure what it will do to the finish on your bathtub tho. thats a great idea! Short of buying a heat gun, would a plumbers torch work without damaging the finish? Assume that I’m applying the torch carefully haha
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Mar 23, 2023 12:29
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lil poopendorfer posted:thats a great idea! Short of buying a heat gun, would a plumbers torch work without damaging the finish? Assume that I’m applying the torch carefully haha I'd start with a hairdryer before you move to concentrated flame.
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Mar 23, 2023 15:19
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Inzombiac posted:I'd start with a hairdryer before you move to concentrated flame. Agreed. Hair dryer and a plastic putty knife should do wonders. I would be concerned that a blowtorch could discolor the glazing or possibly cause it to weaken. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Mar 23, 2023 |
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Mar 23, 2023 16:16
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So, I explored a bunch of DIY options for a patio cover and nothing that is within my scope would be feasible, especially having to rent a cement drill. I've got a few contractors coming out to bid and I'll at least get to know what they think is reasonable. I'd love to get it installed before summer is in full swing so I can dismantle the lovely deck with a reasonable amount of shade.
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Mar 23, 2023 17:03
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Anyone got any tips for drilling actually-aligned holes? I've got some aluminum blocks I need to drill holes in. The blocks are 1.5"H x 2"W x 1"D. The blocks were cut from bar stock, so the widths vary ever so slightly, about 1/16' difference between the largest and smallest. The other faces of the bar stock are untouched from manufacture. I need to drill two holes in the blocks, located at the midpoint height-wise, and 1/2' from the center line width-wise. I took my nicest square, measured and marked the mid-lines for both horizontal and vertical. Next I measured from the vertical mid-line out 1/2" on each side and marked a vertical line for the center points of the holes. I then took a center punch and punched two divots deep into the metal on the center points I marked, and double checked that the measurements were centered by measuring each mid-line from the all edges. Next, I took a small drill bit and drilled out the divots a bit on a drill press, being super-careful to make sure that I'm actually on target. So far so good. I get the pilot holes drilled down like 1/8' and switch to the full-sized drill bit, and carefully center the bit into the slightly-drilled holes, and slowly drill till I break through. Now, as far as I can figure, that should result in properly aligned holes. Unfortunately, it did not. One hole is pretty much perfectly centered, while the other is about 1/16"-ish off center vertically. I honestly have no idea how that happened, considering how long I took getting everything centered to what I thought was perfect like half a dozen times. Where did I go wrong here? How do I do this more easily?
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Mar 24, 2023 01:09
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Pics? We can't easily tell if it's because you marked off center, if you punched off center, or if you have a wandering drill bit, but it's probably one of those things. What kinda drill bits, how did you secure the piece for drilling, is the arbor in your drill press worn or wobbly, there's a ton of variables.
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Mar 24, 2023 01:22
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I don't know if this is the right place, but I recently purchased an older house. One of the things that is really loving weird is that we have an external AC and furnace. I have no idea where the air filter is but my house is always dusty as gently caress. I think my filter needs to be replaced but I can't find any documentation on the unit to get the part# or how to replace it. The unit is york furnace d1na024n05606c. I have scoured the Internet looking for a service manual. Can anyone help me find documentation?
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Mar 24, 2023 02:02
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SalTheBard posted:I don't know if this is the right place, but I recently purchased an older house. One of the things that is really loving weird is that we have an external AC and furnace. I have no idea where the air filter is but my house is always dusty as gently caress. That's a package unit. Nobody here is going to know how it was installed. Call a local HVAC company to clean/service it and make sure it's in good working order. They will show you where the filter is - or isn't and quote you on installing a provision for one.
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Mar 24, 2023 02:07
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Motronic posted:That's a package unit. Nobody here is going to know how it was installed. Call a local HVAC company to clean/service it and make sure it's in good working order. They will show you where the filter is - or isn't and quote you on installing a provision for one. Thank you! I sort of figured that was going to be the answer!
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Mar 24, 2023 02:11
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The filter is just a part of the ducting often times is why no one can tell you where to find it. You basically have to crawl around from return to the unit itself to find it. Or as Motronic pointed out... Find it's missing.
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Mar 24, 2023 02:41
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SalTheBard posted:I don't know if this is the right place, but I recently purchased an older house. One of the things that is really loving weird is that we have an external AC and furnace. I have no idea where the air filter is but my house is always dusty as gently caress. Having no idea how it is installed, all I can tell you is that the filter is NORMALLY located where the return is attached to the air handler at the bottom/side of the furnace A/C stack. The air handler is the box with the fan & motor in it. Find the return duct and it should be at the end. Now, you say this unit is external...it's outside? It may not have a return. Find where it pulls air in to feed the air handler. Where are you?
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Mar 24, 2023 02:47
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PainterofCrap posted:
Overland Park Kansas
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Mar 24, 2023 02:48
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PainterofCrap posted:The air handler is the box with the fan & motor in it. Find the return duct and it should be at the end. lol it's a package unit and I wouldn't know about that in resi if I didn't have experience in places other than the east coast  It's like a commercial roof top unit but it sucks and blows from the side. It's absolutely got a return but it's a "who knows?" situation because it's just a bunch of ductwork terminating at an exterior wall where you hook these things up and the real answer isn't about the unit but about the ductwork.
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Mar 24, 2023 03:04
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What's a package unit?
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Mar 24, 2023 03:31
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Arsenic Lupin posted:What's a package unit? You know how on a typical heat pump you have the outside part (condenser) and then the inside thing with the blower motor, the evap coil for AC and maybe your gas burner that's in your basement or closet? It's both of those things in the same sheet metal box made weatherproof and designed to be outside.
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Mar 24, 2023 03:41
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Arsenic Lupin posted:What's a package unit? 
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Mar 24, 2023 03:46
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I'm starting a new job next week doing mobile repairs for wheelchairs and mobility scooters and I'm trying to figure out a tool solution. My socket set is huge and I'll only need a couple, but I don't really want to just toss a handful into my bag, and all the organizers I can find are the vertical, click on ones that dont really seem like they'd work. Anyone have a good option they use? Ideally something I can just slot a few into. I might try some pawn shops and see if I can just find a case from a smaller set and load what I need in there
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Mar 24, 2023 04:39
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neogeo0823 posted:Anyone got any tips for drilling actually-aligned holes? Since you have a drill press, clamp two pieces of scrap with flat sides at 90 degrees to make a jig, on the constant dimension, you can place the piece to be cut right against it, and on the one that varies, leave enough room to slide in sheets of paper as a thin shim, then clamp the aluminum to be drilled to the constant dimension piece of scrap. Jigs, always.
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Mar 24, 2023 05:01
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Opopanax posted:I'm starting a new job next week doing mobile repairs for wheelchairs and mobility scooters and I'm trying to figure out a tool solution. My socket set is huge and I'll only need a couple, but I don't really want to just toss a handful into my bag, and all the organizers I can find are the vertical, click on ones that dont really seem like they'd work. Anyone have a good option they use? Ideally something I can just slot a few into. I might try some pawn shops and see if I can just find a case from a smaller set and load what I need in there I used some zippered pouches to carry my common sockets and ratchet at my last job. It had all our common sizes in there, so I could grab that bag if I needed to deal with any bolts, and it had everything I'd need. There were about 4 sockets, 4 hex key bits, couple extensions, and a ratchet in the bag. It's just gonna be a mess if you have a full set of sockets in there, but if your set is small enough, it works fine. Especially with some color coding to tell the sizes/standard apart quickly. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Coreflex-Premium-Multipurpose-Cosmetics-Stationary/dp/B0B25T36HQ jetz0r fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Mar 24, 2023 |
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Mar 24, 2023 06:05
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Yeah that could work, or I was thinking one of those modular belts, I just had using a tool belt
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Mar 24, 2023 15:52
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Qwijib0 posted:Since you have a drill press, clamp two pieces of scrap with flat sides at 90 degrees to make a jig, on the constant dimension, you can place the piece to be cut right against it, and on the one that varies, leave enough room to slide in sheets of paper as a thin shim, then clamp the aluminum to be drilled to the constant dimension piece of scrap. One of those compound sliding vices could also be of help. The real answer to precision drilling, of course, is to use a cnc mill, but understandable if not an option. Really, you just have to be super careful about marking and drilling, and then be aware that it’s probably going to wander a bit anyway due to human error and consumer level equipment tolerances, and alter your design to allow for the possibility, if possible.
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Mar 24, 2023 16:12
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So my bathroom exhaust fan has been loud and bad for a while, I thought it was just old but apparently it was also covered in rust and paint The mount for it seemed different from most of the replacements I saw online and it seemed like a pain to replace the whole thing so I decided to just by the motor/fan part on it's own, naturally my dumb rear end being cheap as hell I bought literally the cheapest one I could find, thinking they're basically all the same, turns out when installed it sounds like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jK21hw8wfkM It has enough clearance that it is definitely not scraping against the surface above it and the rhythm of the sound makes me feel that it's coming from the electronic bits and not from the fan blades, also I noticed that the part that's a big solid plastic block on the old fan is now instead a soft-feeling smaller thing covered in some kind of plastic film, and it seems to get quite hot with the fan running for just a couple minutes, is that film supposed to stay on? This is just the result of it being cheap, right? I should just return this thing and go buy an "authentic" motor from Lowe's, right? (Home Depot doesn't seem to stock just the motors, or if they do, I couldn't find them on the website) I didn't wanna spend the extra   Edit: Okay I went and spent the extra , fan seems good, no weird buzzing. Learned my lesson.
Brut fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Mar 24, 2023 |
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Mar 24, 2023 18:54
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Leperflesh posted:Pics? The drilling setup we have at work:  It's by no means amazing, but it usually gets the job done. I did grab two different bubble levels to check and the plate and drill bits are both level. The bubble was dead center between the lines and everything. Though, I do admit that I should probably invest in one of those nifty electronic levels... I have a number of these blocks that I need to drill out, so I did each step in bulk to every block as I went. You know, measure and mark lines on every block, then punch every block, and etc etc etc. This pic is one of the blocks that I've measured, marked, punched, and drilled a small pilot hole. Both holes are centered and only roughly 1/32" off from each other.  And this is the first block I attempted to drill the full sized holes in. The lower hole is centered, but the upper one is not. It's off by about 1/16".  The worst part is, I have no idea how it happened, because I triple-checked that I centered the tip of the bit into the pilot hole, then just lightly kissed the metal with the bit to check that it marked center. Once I verified the bit was centered, that was when I began actually drilling. Maybe I hosed up that one block's center points or something? I don't know. I do know that I want to make sure I'm doing this correctly, before I waste any more blocks of aluminum. The stuff isn't particularly expensive, but I don't have tons of money to spare, and I can't get to the Metal Supermarket very often. I just checked again with the same square, and all of the pilot holes, except 1, are centered within 1/32". The one that's off is off by ~1/16" total, but I can at least flip that block over and redo that hole from the other side. Where even the heck did I gently caress that up? Qwijib0 posted:Since you have a drill press, clamp two pieces of scrap with flat sides at 90 degrees to make a jig, on the constant dimension, you can place the piece to be cut right against it, and on the one that varies, leave enough room to slide in sheets of paper as a thin shim, then clamp the aluminum to be drilled to the constant dimension piece of scrap. I really should make a jig for this, yeah. Maybe I can get that done this weekend....
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Mar 25, 2023 02:38
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neogeo0823 posted:I really should make a jig for this, yeah. Maybe I can get that done this weekend.... Could be as simple as putting the drill into the correctly placed hold on your good block, the placing 4 bits of wood around it and clamping them down. Each block in, then rotate 180°, and they should be identical.
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Mar 25, 2023 11:15
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Drill your pilot hole all the way through the block
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Mar 25, 2023 19:14
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What’s the beast way to repair this? I want to repaint this wall before hanging some art, and might as well fix this too.
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Mar 25, 2023 19:49
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is there a current discord link somewhere, goon asked me for a pointer to the DIY server when they were mentioning a tiling project edit: nm, reread OP, I am good. Cabbages and VHS fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Mar 25, 2023 |
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Mar 25, 2023 20:45
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charliekiwi posted:Drill your pilot hole all the way through the block Might help. It’s aluminum, though so in all honesty, a center drill to get it in the right place, and go straight to the correct size, maybe with a little lube. The larger drill *should* flex less.
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Mar 25, 2023 20:57
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EPICAC posted:What’s the beast way to repair this? I want to repaint this wall before hanging some art, and might as well fix this too. You basically need to re-attach and re-finish the corner bead. https://youtu.be/4O8JBr62t4I
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Mar 25, 2023 23:16
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I have a slow leak in my shower, about 1 drop per 4 seconds. I've tried replacing the cartridge, but that didn't fix it. The only other parts that look replaceable are two little rubber washers that look like they have springs inside of them: Left side is hot water, right is cold, bottom is the outflow to the shower head. I haven't dealt with these washers before; is that something I can plausibly take care of myself? I don't want to risk leaving the shower in an unusable state, because the water shutoff for the shower itself doesn't work, so I have to shut off water for the entire house if I want to work on it. So if I can't put the whole thing back together again, I have no water until a proper plumber can come in and fix the mess.
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Mar 25, 2023 23:59
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Mar 26, 2023 00:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I have a slow leak in my shower, about 1 drop per 4 seconds. I've tried replacing the cartridge, but that didn't fix it. The only other parts that look replaceable are two little rubber washers that look like they have springs inside of them: Those are the rubber valve seats. Basically, they got springs behind those rubber seats that push the rubber against the cartridge. Yes, you can replace them yourself. The problem is that they're manufacturer specific and maybe even model specific, just like the cartridge. You can pull out the old ones with needle nose pliers, but I wouldn't do it until you got replacements. You might not even need to replace them. It's possible there is some piece of gunk jammed in between the rubber and side keeping the spring from pushing out fully. And fix the shut offs for this shower while you're at it. It's probably just stem washers. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Mar 26, 2023 |
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Mar 26, 2023 02:22
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kid sinister posted:Those are the rubber valve seats. Basically, they got springs behind those rubber seats that push the rubber against the cartridge. Yes, you can replace them yourself. The problem is that they're manufacturer specific and maybe even model specific, just like the cartridge. You can pull out the old ones with needle nose pliers, but I wouldn't do it until you got replacements. You might not even need to replace them. It's possible there is some piece of gunk jammed in between the rubber and side keeping the spring from pushing out fully. Thanks! I have replacements already, fortunately. A couple of years ago, I broke the shower trying to do some basic maintenance, and the plumber I hired at the time got me two replacement cartridges, which came with the rubber/spring components as well. I've carefully hoarded them away against days like today. So it sounds like the job is basically just: - remove rubber - remove spring - insert new spring - insert new washer Is that accurate? I don't need to compress the spring or anything like that? As for the shutoffs, they're some kind of valve that works by using a screwdriver to tighten down something into the inlet pipe. The plumber I hired didn't make any attempt to upsell me on fixing them; I assume he would have if it were an easy job. I'll try to remember to get a photo the next time I open everything up.
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Mar 26, 2023 02:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't need to compress the spring or anything like that? You got it. As for tightening them down, putting the cartridge back in compresses the springs. Note that some of those springs are directional, with the wider end going inward and the narrower end outward. Also, doing those spring/seat combos is harder on horizontal fixtures than on a sink. On a sink, you have gravity to get the spring and seal in a vertical hole. On a horizontal fixture, you'll be fighting gravity to keep the spring in the seal. You can try threading the spring and seal onto a narrow screwdriver or nail or something, then guiding them into the hole. Sounds like gate valves. They suck in general and aren't serviceable on top of that.
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Mar 26, 2023 04:14
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Sounds good! I have a small screwdriver that I keep around specifically for the job of being a thin metal rod that's kinda pointy on one end; it'll do fine for keeping everything "threaded". Thanks for the advice!
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Mar 26, 2023 04:17
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