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I just figured out how to cancel a single part on the build plate during printing with Klipper! Totally revolutionary! Any other crazy Klipper tricks you folks use I might not know about?
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 01:37 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 01:59 |
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Sockser posted:Is the mk3 worth twice as much as a Neptune? Sockser posted:Probably not, but it’s still a much much better machine. Have you used both? I borrowed a friend's MK3S+ out of curiosity and, side-by-side with my Neptune 3 Plus (which is the same as the Pro aside from fan turn-off when idle and the bigger bed) and I really disagree with the idea that it's a much better machine, in 2023, than the budget-to-mid stuff. Elegoo could get away with significantly pricing up their newest gen of FDM machines, I think, and people would pay for it. At sub-$250, it is an absolute steal. The MK3S+ is absolutely better than my Sovol SV06, but not by very much, and it's hard to see any reasons to consider it 3x-to-4x-the-money better. It pains me to say this because Bambu seems to really suck as a company (love too have chuds in US support/customer relations!), but a P1P is a better buy than a Prusa right now if you want to spend more than $350 or so. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Mar 28, 2023 |
# ? Mar 28, 2023 01:40 |
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I accidently melted my duct on my ender, and i can't remember what remix of a remix i printed for it, so I looked into the Hero Me ecosystem. I printed the base, the adaptor, the front part cooling fan mount, and the bltouch mount, and OH MY GOD this thing is stupid in its design and attachment. I ended up not even using the bltouch because it doesnt git anywhere, my old original metal part ended up fitting and hacking its way on. This thing is huge, no cabler management, and i refuse to pay $3 to figure out how he wants these 300 parts to fit together. I know he wants it because once you pay that $3 and see how it fits and what it looks like, you end your desire for it. Sooo, what is the simple dual duct hotness? Stock hotend fan, single 5015 part cooler, bltouch. its so simple it almost doesn't exist. I cobbled this thing together enough to print its replacement, or i can do it on the voron but im balls deep into tuning and testing
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 02:10 |
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Roundboy posted:I accidently melted my duct on my ender, and i can't remember what remix of a remix i printed for it, so I looked into the Hero Me ecosystem. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179892 Simple design, works well (or at least its V6 direct drive cousin does.)
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 02:32 |
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Roundboy posted:I printed the base, the adaptor, the front part cooling fan mount, and the bltouch mount, and OH MY GOD this thing is stupid in its design and attachment. I ended up not even using the bltouch because it doesnt git anywhere, my old original metal part ended up fitting and hacking its way on. yeah, i too found the herome to be a pain in the dick. i use a satsana remix, i forget which one but the basic design is simple and works.
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 02:58 |
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This is all timely since I'll be doing this on my frankender 3 too once I get it.
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 03:21 |
armorer posted:I'm going to be getting a free ender 3 that's in unknown (but theoretically functional) condition. I'm expecting to need to basically rebuild it, and I'm wondering what upgrades folks suggest these days? I have a working printer, so I'm not really worried about this thing being down for a while. I have an all metal hotend and a bl-touch, and some yellow springs lying around. What else should I consider? Direct drive maybe? Dedicated big nozzle printer for organizers and boxes and such? Metal extruder (if you don't go full direct drive) because all plastic extruders exist only to eventually do this:
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 03:41 |
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Edwardly posted:If your gcode only has the G28 command, yeah, that always resets it. I think the Neptune 2S itself forgets the manual Z-offset if I rerun the autolevel, though. Which is pretty funny.
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 03:41 |
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Roundboy posted:I accidently melted my duct on my ender, and i can't remember what remix of a remix i printed for it, so I looked into the Hero Me ecosystem. I printed the Hero Me Gen 5 and it was ok, it wasn't great, but it checked all my boxes. The 7 is somehow even worse and relies on like a freefloating hotend mount that melts at PETG temps...when printed with PETG. Worked fine with PLA at PLA temps though, strangely enough. I currently have the Gen 7 main stuff and I just have the hotend stuck to the original mount, since it's still accessible and within height tolerance. I'm thinking of designing my own thing so I can shove a superpinda somewhere close to the nozzle so I can probe nearly the whole bed. Might see if someone else has beaten me too it.
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 03:52 |
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Bondematt posted:I printed the Hero Me Gen 5 and it was ok, it wasn't great, but it checked all my boxes. I think the herome peaked at the gen 3.
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 03:55 |
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Javid posted:Metal extruder (if you don't go full direct drive) Ah yeah for sure, my other one has a metal extruder. If I don't go direct drive I will do this.
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 04:03 |
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Bondematt posted:I printed the Hero Me Gen 5 and it was ok, it wasn't great, but it checked all my boxes. Gen 7 requires you to heatset the main base to the ender backer, then heatset the ducts to the base (or preadd screws and nuts, Then mount the backer, then put the hotend through the top (thermistor and heater wires just free float i guess) and then screw the hot end through the fax shroud to the ender base and the actual printer. Then you can attach the base to the printer in the 2 usual spots. And you can also print a button you can also heat set to attach the last free floating part of the base to some portion of the ender base. And the bl touch is laughable to fit. this sucks that I -need- this working to print on this printer. I had to redo all my offsets and z, and i kinda dont trust it. I will say the duct blows a hell of a lot of air at low speeds though. ..... which i guess i get to retune all my fan speed now ... *SIGH* I might get a friend to print it on his bamboo at lightning speed or ill just do it myself. There is something to be said about printers you can;t screw with so this doesnt happen
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 04:44 |
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ZincBoy posted:I have found I need to turn up the bed temperature from the defaults to avoid corner lifting. At least with PETG that has been my experience. Once I went to 80C from 70C for PETG all of the warping issues went away. You just get warnings about the bed temp being higher than the tg of the plastic. Yeah I turn up the bed temperature to 60c for most PLA now to avoid any adhesion issues. Also 75 or 80c for PETG. Especially with PLA and the auxiliary fan on the X1C it has a tendency to try and curl. Or use brim and that usually prevents it, especially with 0 brim-object gap.
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 06:11 |
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I got a teaser in my email from Creality about the K1 that was mentioned a couple days ago: Looks like we get to know what it actually is in two weeks
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 13:52 |
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While I'm waiting for mine, has anyone in the thread grabbed one of the Bambu hotends that allows for swappable V6-ish* nozzles (and CHT nozzles)? (Aftermarket part, nothing official as of yet.) I do wonder how many of the aftermarket products Bambu is going to end up relaunching themselves over time/depending on popularity. (* Apparently standard V6 nozzles are like a mm too long, so the ones sold with the bambu aftermarket ones are slightly nonstandard to accommodate it, depending on seller.) SubNat fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Mar 28, 2023 |
# ? Mar 28, 2023 20:09 |
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IIRC last time filament chat came up IIID got recommended as a cheap PLA+. Anything against them for ABS too? They dont have a huge range of colors, but a 6 pack for $99 ($16.5/kg) seems pretty good.insta posted:As someone who does the help tickets for Voron, please god build it stock first except at most canbus and umbilical. https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/my-voron-ldo-trident-300.467/ ilkhan fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Mar 28, 2023 |
# ? Mar 28, 2023 21:11 |
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Is bed leveling and offset just impossible? Manually level, print concentric squares, everything’s flawless and even. Great. Actual print? Nozzle gets right up against the glass for part of it til it can’t even extrude. Just awful. What gives? Ended 3 Neo. Is it the stupid auto leveling thing? Can I shut that off and have it not try to compensate?
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# ? Mar 28, 2023 23:37 |
Every post about auto leveling I read makes me glad I do not have it. Just eyeballing it manually using the skirt lines takes me 90 seconds per nozzle change. idgi.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 01:48 |
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Javid posted:Every post about auto leveling I read makes me glad I do not have it. Just eyeballing it manually using the skirt lines takes me 90 seconds per nozzle change. idgi. This is what I do as well, but my build plate is dished a tiny bit in the center and I have it shimmed with two pieces of tinfoil. Stuff like that you can never fix by tweaking the plate height wheels, but a probe can account for perfectly.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 01:54 |
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Did you know? Prusas either have PCB heatbeds so flat or automatic bed leveling so good, or both, that I have literally never thought about whether it's working correctly. The only adjustment you ever need to make is the initial layer offset tweaking, which never has to be reset if you don't swap out the build plate, and I have never had any cases of bed unleveling that weren't caused by a fleck of filament stuck underneath. I know that people still think that Prusas are a rip-off, but if so, you'd think that someone else could make an identically reliable machine for like 2/3 the price and eat their lunch. But nobody ever seems to do it. I do hope that when they make a Mk4, that it's a coreXY design. The Mk3S is a great machine but I think it pushes bed-flingers about as far as that configuration can go. Everything else should just stay the same.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 02:27 |
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I've never said prusas are a ripoff. I just didn't want to pony up for one since I don't mind dicking around with my ender. I mean I'm going to rebuild another one just for the hell of it here soon. I may get an X1 or something in a few months though, mostly to be able to print some higher temp materials.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 04:47 |
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Sagebrush posted:I do hope that when they make a Mk4, that it's a coreXY design. The Mk3S is a great machine but I think it pushes bed-flingers about as far as that configuration can go. Everything else should just stay the same. There are leaks (apparently from Prusa's CDN?) saying that a mk4 will be announced tomorrow, and mk3.5/mk3.9 upgrade kits. Cast aluminum frame with a hexagon pattern on the back. New control board with metal enclosure / graphic LCD. https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/12575ng/mk4_mk35_and_mmu3_leak/
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 04:54 |
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mewse posted:There are leaks (apparently from Prusa's CDN?) saying that a mk4 will be announced tomorrow, and mk3.5/mk3.9 upgrade kits. Cast aluminum frame with a hexagon pattern on the back. New control board with metal enclosure / graphic LCD. Yeaaaah m I'm pretty unenthused. I like my prusa a lot, but it's going to be extremely hard to compete with the speed offered by corexy. Maybe if they can bring them price way down, but it just seems like such a dead end in multiple fronts to keep pushing bed slingers
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 05:22 |
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w00tmonger posted:Yeaaaah m I'm interested in what the toolhead will look like, I think they teased a perfect benchy
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 06:00 |
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Is pronterface still the go to tool for calibrating e steps and such? It's been years since I've needed to do that.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 15:48 |
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armorer posted:Is pronterface still the go to tool for calibrating e steps and such? It's been years since I've needed to do that. yeah, unless you're doing klipper or something that's probably the easiest to run without a headache.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 16:24 |
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tater_salad posted:yeah, unless you're doing klipper or something that's probably the easiest to run without a headache. Cool, thanks! Not running Klipper.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 16:29 |
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Double posting because of course my windows 11 machine has no interest in recognizing an Ender 3 Pro. I'll have to dig an old machine out of some box somewhere from when I moved and try with that.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 17:34 |
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Prusa MK4 announcement vid is up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iIC-GlxI7Q
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 17:39 |
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Kalman posted:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179892 Also thanks, got this printed and installed and its so drat simple. Also the fact they included slots to hold a nut so you can thread it in. The only issue so far is that the whole thing is held to the printer arm with one screw, as the ender3 vs v2 has it in a slightly different spot. The bltouch mount needs an odd length screw i don;t have, as 12mm is too short, 16mm is too long (i don't have 14mm) and i just ended up adding an extra hexnut as a washer using a longer screw. Adapt, overcome. All fixable for the moment but the offsets are SO much better then the herome. Seriously gently caress that guy
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 17:53 |
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TerminalSaint posted:Prusa MK4 announcement vid is up: My MK3S+ arrives tomorrow, and it's already obsolete. (Just kidding, it'll be awesome... But I wish I'd waited about a week.) Edit: Honestly, looking at it more... I may just return it despite getting absolutely slammed on shipping charges. The MK4S looks so much better, plus the thing I bought that hasn't been delivered yet now costs $180 less. WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Mar 29, 2023 |
# ? Mar 29, 2023 17:56 |
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And here's the mk4 webpage. https://blog.prusa3d.com/announcing-original-prusa-mk4_76585/ I had no idea how they were going to update the mk# series. And.. they did it. This is fundimentally better on almost every aspect.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 17:59 |
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One of the things I want to make if I get around to actually buying a printer is a new key enclosure for my old CRV, one is hosed and the other isn't great. How well does 3D printing work for things that have to snap together?
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 18:32 |
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Where's my loving XL Josef
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 18:47 |
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codo27 posted:One of the things I want to make if I get around to actually buying a printer is a new key enclosure for my old CRV, one is hosed and the other isn't great. How well does 3D printing work for things that have to snap together? It can work fine as long as you design the item with 3d printing in mind. Like, a few vertical snaps printed such that the layer lines are across them will just break off. A raised edge on a whole part that's thick enough to handle the forces should be fine. There's also different materials to consider, for example, PLA is hard but brittle but commonly printed with and is more likely to break if it has a lot of force on it. If I wanted something to be more tough I'd look at PETG, ABS, or Nylon. You could also design it to just use a couple of screws or pins to keep it together.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 18:49 |
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Mayhaps I'll cancel my XL and get a mk4 upgrade kit Definitely going to cancel the XL though. Like I keep saying. Soon. Deviant fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Mar 29, 2023 |
# ? Mar 29, 2023 18:57 |
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Looks like the mk4 is basically the mk3 structure with the various sensor/tech upgrades pulled in from the XL?
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 19:41 |
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withak posted:Looks like the mk4 is basically the mk3 structure with the various sensor/tech upgrades pulled in from the XL? Yeah essentially. I think the frame is the same. The full upgrade kit has the new electronics, the nextruder module with quick disconnects, and the higher resolution motors for X/Y
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 19:43 |
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Bold move making a new product actually available the day it is announced.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 19:45 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 01:59 |
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mk3.5 upgrade: new control board + lcd mk3.9 upgrade: above plus nextruder mk4 upgrade: above plus new X/Y motors
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 19:53 |