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Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Dr. VooDoo posted:

Alright. I’ll attempt using both just to see. I might even prefer using both for various things anyway. I just like to get off on good habits when starting something new just so I don’t have to unlearn bad habits down the line (like when I started learning mandolin)

Oh yeah, good habits definitely. No one here will steer you wrong. It's just good to experiment, since you may end up loving a product or technique other people hate, and vice versa.

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Dr. VooDoo
May 4, 2006


I’m building my model in pieces and I have noticed that there is lips sometimes between the pieces when they join



It’s not flash, just the pieces aren’t flush when connected at points. Is that fixable with some putty and sanding?

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Dr. VooDoo posted:

It’s not flash, just the pieces aren’t flush when connected at points. Is that fixable with some putty and sanding?

That's exactly what putty and sandpaper are for.

Dr. VooDoo
May 4, 2006


mllaneza posted:

That's exactly what putty and sandpaper are for.

Okay, awesome! And again thanks for answering these really dumb, basic questions everyone

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

Dr. VooDoo posted:

Okay, awesome! And again thanks for answering these really dumb, basic questions everyone

It's what we're here for! Really happy to see someone get into the hobby, so whatever we can do to assist. :)

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Dr. VooDoo posted:

Okay, awesome! And again thanks for answering these really dumb, basic questions everyone

This is 90% the hobbies problem, it's not you. People use weird words, and weird names. And are protective of technique. And when you see a finished model they say it's "A Revel P40" but don't mention there's 1oz of putty on it, they broke out blueprints to do the rivet lines, and custom mixed their own pin wash. Most of what makes models look great.. isn't detailed in the manual. "Here's some paint colors" But.. how to mask? what comes first? do I prime? Why does yours have shadows on panel lines and mine doesn't? Why does my paint come out chunky.. I bought what you told me to...

We'll tell you. And Please ask.

I Mean, I feel ok about this one.


Interior details? Sure they're molded, but no decals, and no color call-outs. So that's dry brushing.


Every major seam needed putty.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

tidal wave emulator posted:

I've found the most foolproof way to find something I've lost to the carpet monster is to immediately start scratch-building a replacement from sheet styrene or leftover PE and by the time I'm finished I will find the missing part on top of my shoe or something.

It's loving uncanny.

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




Are you even really participating in the hobby if you aren't painting with little humbrol tins?

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



NTRabbit posted:

Are you even really participating in the hobby if you aren't painting with little humbrol tins? loving up constantly in new and innovative ways?

context edit: I learned that gloss coat dulls the poo poo out of metallic finishes, but of all the paint I use I'm most worried about protecting my metallics. Truly a catch 22.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

Warmachine posted:

context edit: I learned that gloss coat dulls the poo poo out of metallic finishes, but of all the paint I use I'm most worried about protecting my metallics. Truly a catch 22.

Super fun stuff, huh? Learned that the hard way too. On my recent all metal P-40B, I was terrified to do all the paint masking and weathering without a varnish coat. Amazingly, the only paint that lifted was the insignia, not the base Alclad.

@Nerobro, what did you use for putty on your P-40 there? Also, I love the 2" masking tape strip strung from wingrip to wingtip. I'm assuming you had to do that to hold the dihedral while cement dried?

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

Alclad's Aqua Gloss is designed to cover their metallics without affecting the look of the finish. In my experience it's still slightly different from a raw coat but not as much as other glosses I've tried.

MyronMulch
Nov 12, 2006

Dr. VooDoo posted:

I’m building my model in pieces and I have noticed that there is lips sometimes between the pieces when they join



It’s not flash, just the pieces aren’t flush when connected at points. Is that fixable with some putty and sanding?

People usually call those "mold seams" and there are all sorts of tools and techniques for cleaning them up. Often these will be scraped and sanded down rather than trying to re-sculpt a smooth contour using putty.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Cross-posting from the OSHA thread

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
Live steam is cool as hell

(ok, literally the opposite of cool as hell but you understand what I mean)

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Quick product recommend. I just purchased some of these needle dropper bottles from AliExpress. Great for anything, but I found they're perfect for holding CA Accelerator. Then you can put down a drop of it exactly where you need it, instead of coating half your model with a spritzer or aerosol bottle.

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005004470388563.html


Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
I've been modelling for about 3 years but have only done car models. However I got kind of burnt out on it and I just moved 2500 miles which meant basically ditching all the paints I had. Now I'm settled in and it's time to take a shot at military modeling. Most of the paints I had weren't really compatible with military models (unless I wanted to make a glossy orange tank) so I took a trip to the local hobby store and bought all this:

I got the Tamiya M41 Bulldog on recommendation from multiple goons in this thread as being a great beginner kit. I always really wanted a Tamiya T55 but the store didn't have it so I got the T62 hopefully it's a similar level of difficult. I'm not new to modeling, but there's a lot of techniques to military modeling that I'm not familiar with. Also there are wayyy more choices of models from many more companies, in many different scales, so this is going to be quite the rabbit hole I fall into. People were talking about the costs of this hobby a page or 2 ago and I just have to say it's one of the best bang for buck hobbies out there. If you're into cars (1/1 scale) or guns you know what I'm talking about.

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007

Charliegrs posted:

(unless I wanted to make a glossy orange tank)
So...there's been lots of posts with realistic tanks, buuuuuuut

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Paint a black and orange stripe Tiger.

The T-62 is quite an old kit, it should be fairly simple.

Raskolnikov38
Mar 3, 2007

We were somewhere around Manila when the drugs began to take hold

stealie72 posted:

So...there's been lots of posts with realistic tanks, buuuuuuut

I’ll just say that the plasmo gold leaf video was very relevant to a future tank project of mine

Dr. VooDoo
May 4, 2006


How are Badgers own line of paints? I was browsing another hobby shop a little further away due to visiting some family and when I mentioned monsters the guy at the counter said Badger has Freak Flex paints are pigments made specifically for horror figures but I can’t seem to find anything online that on how they actually look or flow through an airbrush

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
I've never used them myself, but they definitely feel like a last-gen paint. You'd read a lot about people using them to paint statues 20 years ago. I've never heard of anyone using them in the last decade, amongst the pros or the hobbyists.

The times I did hear people using them ages ago, it was always about how finicky they were to get working.

I'd say the modern equivalent of a paint the pros use for statues and busts would be Tim Gore's Bloodlines series of paints, from Createx. Garage Kit Colors US was hugely popular, but they've recently split from their paint manufacturer Lifecolor, and will just be selling kits now. Lifecolor paints themselves are supposed to be very nice, but they're aimed at taxidermists and not the easiest/cheapest paints to find around.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Badger used to make good acrylic primers, and then hosed up the mixture. Whether this was due to incompetence or COVID supply line disruption is unclear. They did come out as chuds, though.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Quick product recommend. I just purchased some of these needle dropper bottles from AliExpress. Great for anything, but I found they're perfect for holding CA Accelerator. Then you can put down a drop of it exactly where you need it, instead of coating half your model with a spritzer or aerosol bottle.

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005004470388563.html




You don't just unscrew the spritzer cap and touch the base of the intake tube to your model like the rest of us unwashed masses?

(Great suggestion, btw)

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Gewehr 43 posted:

You don't just unscrew the spritzer cap and touch the base of the intake tube to your model like the rest of us unwashed masses?

(Great suggestion, btw)

Harder to do with an aerosol can.

But yes, I do that with pretty much anything in a spritzer bottle.

Dr. VooDoo
May 4, 2006


Bloody Hedgehog posted:

I've never used them myself, but they definitely feel like a last-gen paint. You'd read a lot about people using them to paint statues 20 years ago. I've never heard of anyone using them in the last decade, amongst the pros or the hobbyists.

The times I did hear people using them ages ago, it was always about how finicky they were to get working.

I'd say the modern equivalent of a paint the pros use for statues and busts would be Tim Gore's Bloodlines series of paints, from Createx. Garage Kit Colors US was hugely popular, but they've recently split from their paint manufacturer Lifecolor, and will just be selling kits now. Lifecolor paints themselves are supposed to be very nice, but they're aimed at taxidermists and not the easiest/cheapest paints to find around.

The Createx Bloodline and Lifeline paints have a bunch of colors I was looking at too, thanks for the suggestion. Do you know if they behave with a Mr. thinner leveling thinner?

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

grassy gnoll posted:

Badger used to make good acrylic primers, and then hosed up the mixture. Whether this was due to incompetence or COVID supply line disruption is unclear. They did come out as chuds, though.

I'd been using Badger Stynylrez/Ultimate primer (rebadged in the UK) for years and it was fantastic up until as you say they hosed it up - they said on social media that they weren't able to source the leveling agent or something they'd previously been using so used another ingredient, but it was a disaster and they did a recall on all the primer they'd sold with the new formula.

However, whether they went back to the original formula or not I've no idea cos I have had nothing but problems trying to spray new bottles of it whereas it used to be totally foolproof.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Dr. VooDoo posted:

The Createx Bloodline and Lifeline paints have a bunch of colors I was looking at too, thanks for the suggestion. Do you know if they behave with a Mr. thinner leveling thinner?

No! They are a very unique paint, and you ONLY want to use their branded thinner with them. They related to acrylics, but they have a very unique chemistry, and water and typical acrylic thinners aren't great for them. Lacquer thinners like Mr Leveling Thinner will curdle them.

You don't even really need thinners though. They are a true "airbrush ready" paint, and not like how most paint lines say their air-paints are airbrush ready, but they never truly are. Bloodline/Lifelines are very thin right out of the bottle. Their branded thinners are more for traditional airbrush artists doing 2D art and running paint through a miniscule 0.1 needle or smaller airbrush.

Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Apr 7, 2023

Smoke
Mar 12, 2005

I am NOT a red Bumblebee for god's sake!

Gun Saliva

Charliegrs posted:

Most of the paints I had weren't really compatible with military models (unless I wanted to make a glossy orange tank)

Well, there are orange tanks around:



(Dutch army, painted to support the Dutch team for a world cup, the text says "Proud of our guys")

Someday I will build a Leopard in that color with that text on it.

Dr. VooDoo
May 4, 2006


Bloody Hedgehog posted:

No! They are a very unique paint, and you ONLY want to use their branded thinner with them. They related to acrylics, but they have a very unique chemistry, and water and typical acrylic thinners aren't great for them. Lacquer thinners like Mr Leveling Thinner will curdle them.

You don't even really need thinners though. They are a true "airbrush ready" paint, and not like how most paint lines say their air-paints are airbrush ready, but they never truly are. Bloodline/Lifelines are very thin right out of the bottle. Their branded thinners are more for traditional airbrush artists doing 2D art and running paint through a miniscule 0.1 needle or smaller airbrush.

Oh alright, so running it through like a sotar 20/20 with the fine needle shouldn’t be an issue than straight from their bottle

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
Well poo poo, just bought a 6 pack of different Stynylrez colors. Should I expect it to just be garbage?

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

stealie72 posted:

Well poo poo, just bought a 6 pack of different Stynylrez colors. Should I expect it to just be garbage?

Depends on where you bought it.
From what I understand, they changed back to the original formula, and may have recalled the bad bottles but a lot of resellers stil have the bad stuff in stock and there's no way to tell one from the other.
So I guess if you bought it directly from Badger it should be ok, but otherwise there's no way to be sure.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

stealie72 posted:

Well poo poo, just bought a 6 pack of different Stynylrez colors. Should I expect it to just be garbage?

I bought three a while ago, the black is awful and separates the moment you look at it, the green is good but has a lot of clumps in it, the red is perfect.

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
Whelp. Sheyit. I got it through a random hobby shop selling through amazon, so who knows.

Guess I'll be priming some takeout containers first.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



stealie72 posted:

Whelp. Sheyit. I got it through a random hobby shop selling through amazon, so who knows.

Guess I'll be priming some takeout containers first.

I love it when take out gives me plasticware. It's free color swatches!

I was a bit skeptical of Gunprimer's 'Raser' glass file, since I already have a Dspaie Siren, but this thing is living up to its hype so far. The fact that it's multidirectional is already a boon over the Siren, but somehow it just seems to shred gate marks in a loving hurry without taking bites out of the part itself. Feels like magic, and it really speeds up my part prep.

The buffing sponge and cloth aren't any real news--they're just a standard buff box and cloth combo that you probably already have like 20 of.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


stealie72 posted:

Well poo poo, just bought a 6 pack of different Stynylrez colors. Should I expect it to just be garbage?

All of mine bead up if I do more than the slightest hint of a mist. I now keep them on hand for priming matte surfaces. My AK, Tamiya, and Mr Hobby primers are all great.

Darth Brooks
Jan 15, 2005

I do not wear this mask to protect me. I wear it to protect you from me.

I'm thinking of trying some vacuum forming. The setup seems easy to make. Has anyone done this and have any advice? Do I need a special kind of styrene? (The part I want to make would be clear)

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Yooper posted:

My AK, Tamiya, and Mr Hobby primers are all great.

If your AK Primer is their "One-Shot Primer", that's rebranded Stynylrez.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
So I don't live anywhere near a model shop unfortunately however there's a Michaels, Hobby Lobby, and probably an art shop on pretty much every corner in my area. I think weathering with artist oil paints is pretty common practice right? Should I just get like a black, brown and maybe gray oil paint and thinner? This would be for tank models.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Charliegrs posted:

So I don't live anywhere near a model shop unfortunately however there's a Michaels, Hobby Lobby, and probably an art shop on pretty much every corner in my area. I think weathering with artist oil paints is pretty common practice right? Should I just get like a black, brown and maybe gray oil paint and thinner? This would be for tank models.

Maybe black, brown and white. If you want gray, you could mix the black and white. If you want light dust in the cracks, you could make a light tan with the brown and white.

For thinning, I'd recommend turpenoid. Much milder and less smelly than mineral spirits (even the "oderless" ones that are anything but) and regular turpentine.

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Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Bloody Hedgehog posted:

If your AK Primer is their "One-Shot Primer", that's rebranded Stynylrez.

Looks like I missed that one, mine is the 3rd Gen and goes on really well.

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