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Sockser posted:I inherited a bunch of wood from a friend's late father. Chainsaw to start if you can stabilize it.
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Apr 9, 2023 20:40
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ColdPie posted:I used it to glue up the undercarriage for chair number 3. My first chair with stretchers!
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Apr 9, 2023 21:20
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Please don't yuck my yum.
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Apr 9, 2023 21:49
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Anyone have strong feelings on air filters? For my small shop with only a bandsaw and hand sanding, I'm thinking of getting the smallest ceiling mounted model from Grizzly. It's not HEPA, but that's a big bump in price & noise.
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Apr 10, 2023 15:32
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Related, has anyone made a https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corsi%96Rosenthal_Box for their shop?
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Apr 10, 2023 15:56
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Slugworth posted:Looks uncomfortable. that's unchairitable ColdPie posted:Woodworking: Please don't yuck my yum.
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Apr 10, 2023 16:11
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Calidus posted:Related, has anyone made a https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corsi%96Rosenthal_Box for their shop? Yah bit haven’t used it yet, was waiting for a big shop cleanup day to fire it up
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Apr 10, 2023 16:16
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ColdPie posted:Please don't yuck my yum. so thats why they call it proud joinery
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Apr 10, 2023 16:22
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Walnut slabs are prepped in the cure space ( got them resting for now on some 1.5 angle irons, gonna move them to a flat area soon. For now the ends are sealed and ratchet straps in place to help resist cupping and warping. This is the first batch of many so we'll see how it goes!
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Apr 10, 2023 16:46
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ColdPie posted:My first chair with stretchers! What are you using to shape your seat? And if you say travisher where did you find one that didn't cost a fortune?
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Apr 10, 2023 17:21
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ColdPie posted:Anyone have strong feelings on air filters? For my small shop with only a bandsaw and hand sanding, I'm thinking of getting the smallest ceiling mounted model from Grizzly. It's not HEPA, but that's a big bump in price & noise. Calidus posted:Related, has anyone made a https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corsi%96Rosenthal_Box for their shop? I have a squirrel cage blower from a furnace in a shop made box with a 20x20 high MERV furnace filter. Works great!
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Apr 10, 2023 17:21
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ColdPie posted:Anyone have strong feelings on air filters? For my small shop with only a bandsaw and hand sanding, I'm thinking of getting the smallest ceiling mounted model from Grizzly. It's not HEPA, but that's a big bump in price & noise. I have a Wen model that is similar to that Grizzly and it does a pretty decent job in my partially finished garage. I've noticed less dust in all the corners and settling on totes and boxes. I've also used it to keep the dust down while demoing a sheet rock wall inside the house and it was pretty good at helping keep the mess contained. Still a little dust escaped, but it wasn't fully installed on the ceiling in the house for the demo.
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Apr 10, 2023 17:33
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Calidus posted:Related, has anyone made a https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corsi%96Rosenthal_Box for their shop? Honestly I think that that design is fancier than you need for keeping shop dust down. Just slap a furnace filter onto a box fan and you're good to go. You don't even need tape; the fan's airflow will keep the filter "adhered". I've used this design to filter out wildfire smoke and it works great. The four-filter Corsi-Rosenthal will have better airflow (since there's a larger surface area of filter), so it's not a bad way to go. It's just bulkier and slightly more expensive.
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Apr 10, 2023 18:30
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Mr. Merdle posted:Walnut slabs are prepped in the cure space ( got them resting for now on some 1.5 angle irons, gonna move them to a flat area soon. For now the ends are sealed and ratchet straps in place to help resist cupping and warping. This is the first batch of many so we'll see how it goes! That's awesome but! Your stickers should always be in a neat column, one above the next. Otherwise, you're bending slabs by putting pressure on them from above where there's no support below. You should also use narrower stickers, such wide planks as you've used here will reduce the surface area exposed to air and slow down the drying process, as well as potentially trap moisture which can lead to rot.
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Apr 10, 2023 23:54
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NomNomNom posted:What are you using to shape your seat? And if you say travisher where did you find one that didn't cost a fortune? You didn't ask for an essay, but you're gonna get one!! The short answer to your question is, "a scorp and it sucked a lot." --- (I linked the text-heavy images below to the full-size images for easier reading.) Figuring out how to carve the seat has been the biggest obstacle to chairmaking for me so far. I've made two seats so far, and neither turned out good or even felt like worthwhile approaches. It is driving me crazy that I can't figure this out. I don't know what direction to try going in, or if I'm just screwing up and every technique just sucks and is hard to learn. I've read about a bunch of different techniques and no one seems to come away with a strong recommendation. Every time I read about seat carving, the impression I get from the author is like, "here is some vague discussion of how I do it, I dunno, it's hard and sucks, here's some other ideas too, I guess, now go away I don't want to talk about it." Here's the first thing I read from Schwarz on it, in ADB. He suggests just using a No 5 with a radiused blade set deep, and go to town on it. It doesn't give you a full saddle, but hollows out a bit in the middle for some relief. I tried this in some scrap, it felt like a terrible approach and I didn't try further as I'm after a full saddle to begin with.  Here's what Schwarz has to say about doing a full saddle. At the top of page 326, he says he starts with a scorp, and he also says he starts with an adze and then switches to the scorp, and in this blog post he says he doesn't use an adze. So I decided to try using a scorp, since it's useful in all cases, and bought one from Barr Tools. It's a really challenging tool to use for bulk removal. My first seat shaped with the scorp turned out bad and shallow, and the 2nd one I tried to go deeper and it also turned out bad and took a truly ludicrous amount of effort. It chatters and tears out like crazy when you're trying to take off significant material, and my hands were a complete mess by the end of it. It can do a decent job of smoothing if you're careful, but for bulk removal it is really a huge chore and leaves huge tearout chunks that are impossible to clean up nicely. Schwarz says that a travisher is used to clean up after the scorp/adze. I don't have one of those, so I use a scraper and sandpaper and the tearout is just too deep for those tools. It's possible my difficulty here is user error, but let's keep going with the research...    Let's see what 1960s chairmaker John Brown has to say in his book. He says he uses a "round both ways" plane. WTF is that? In the photo it looks like a small plane with a curved sole and presumably curved radius blade, too. The rest of the page is about travishers, which he wishes he could use for bulk removal, but can't. Surely he could've turned up one travisher in his entire career, or even made one himself? But no, uses the small round plane. Does that mean the plane works better than a travisher, because otherwise he would surely be using one? On the next page he says he uses a scorp to clean up after the plane! Not for bulk removal! This is totally swapped from Schwarz: Brown claims the travisher is for bulk removal (but he uses a shop-made plane...), and the scorp is for cleanup. Schwarz says the scorp/adze is for bulk removal, and the travisher is for cleanup. So I either need a travisher or a "round both ways" plane to try the Brown approach; or I need a travisher to try the Schwarz approach.  As you mentioned, travishers are hard to come by, so I bought a little 4" radius plane blade from Hock and made a crappy little Krenov-style plane. I'm aiming for something like what Brown uses in the above photo. I haven't used this thing yet, even in scrap. Frankly I'm nervous it won't work because I think I made the plane body too long and I don't want to face that failure just yet. So the jury's still out on the "round both ways" plane strategy for bulk removal. I will report back. Oh, I also put in an order for a travisher from this guy that Schwarz recommended. Estimated shipping in May/June. One of these tool combinations will work, surely.  By sheer coincidence, there was an article about a windsor-style high stool in this month's Fine Woodworking issue. The author reveals he uses a power carver after discussing how he's tried a bunch of poo poo and it all sucks and go away and stop talking to me.  
ColdPie fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Apr 11, 2023 |
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Apr 11, 2023 01:46
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A "round both ways" plane is aka a "convex" bottom plane or a "compass plane" and you can buy them: lie nielsen (sold out) Patterned after the classic Stanley 100 1/2: https://www.ebay.com/itm/374566785646 Japanese style Osaka: https://osakatools.com/collections/hand-planes/products/convex-compass-plane-sori-dai-kanna-24mm they do seem to be quite small Here's another maker, but I guess you're shopping in new zealand for japanese planes? https://www.sigtools.co.nz/products/kakuri-mini-ebony-hand-plane-no12-convex Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Apr 11, 2023 |
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Apr 11, 2023 02:07
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Very neat to learn about! 'Round both ways' plane definitely sounds like a little violinmaker's plane, but probably bigger. My mentor made a few Krenov-style ones that worked fairly well on archtop guitars which involve similar shapes to chair seats. They were pretty small-maybe 2-3" long and 1.5" wide? His was not very rounded across the body of the plane-maybe a 8-10" radius? but more curved along the length, but that's going to depend alot on the scale of your work. It definitely seems like something you'll probably want to make yourself and not get too precious about. I imagine finding the right shape of the sole and angle of the blade would take plenty of trial and error. In the few archtops I roughed out for him, I did most of the work with a gouge, maybe a #5 or #7 sweep an inch or so wide, mostly working across the grain. Templates help keep you from going too deep. Pretty easy by hand in western red cedar or spruce, but would be a lot of whacking with a mallet in oak, even with a very sharp gouge. I know it's against your religion, but honestly this is the kind of tremendous pain in the rear end thing that I'm excited about a CNC router for. One could also probably rough it out pretty well with a few templates and a router duplicator/pantograph thing. This makes it seem like a fun project to make your own travisher: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Travisher.html These scrapers from StewMac are a godsend imo for cleaning up stuff like that, and I'd bet it can do 95% of the job a travisher does in a much cheaper, simpler to sharpen tool: https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/scrapers/stewmac-ultimate-scraper/
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Apr 11, 2023 02:10
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Ooh, round "both ways" like "left/right and front/back." Interesting. That gives me some ideas to explore with this blade I bought.
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Apr 11, 2023 02:25
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Leperflesh posted:That's awesome but! Your stickers should always be in a neat column, one above the next. Otherwise, you're bending slabs by putting pressure on them from above where there's no support below. You should also use narrower stickers, such wide planks as you've used here will reduce the surface area exposed to air and slow down the drying process, as well as potentially trap moisture which can lead to rot. Thanks! I was actually thinking about that and the next set I just ripped (a 10-ft pine) I'll use slimmer stickers and redo those ones while I'm at it.
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Apr 11, 2023 03:05
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I almost always see 1x1s being used, spaced around a foot apart, maybe a bit more on really big slabs.
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Apr 11, 2023 05:22
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This is somewhat speculative, but saddling the seat with some gouges might work. Based mostly on my experience doing (mediocre) carving I don't see why not. Wood is wood, and orienting a gouge and tapping it through might just be much less of a bother than manhandling a scorp. Potentially a less gnarly surface afterwards too, making clean-up easier. (On which note I strongly remember Schwarz mentioning somewhere using a random orbital with 80 grit if it's too gnarly.)
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Apr 11, 2023 12:04
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Thanks for the write up Pie! And yeah sounds like your research has kinda matched mine, I've just been too chicken to even try (other than the jack plane approach, which did suck and not work). My first and only chair has a flat seat. I do have a cnc however, and I've been getting the itch to try another chair...
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Apr 11, 2023 12:14
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Just Winging It posted:This is somewhat speculative, but saddling the seat with some gouges might work. Based mostly on my experience doing (mediocre) carving I don't see why not. Wood is wood, and orienting a gouge and tapping it through might just be much less of a bother than manhandling a scorp. Potentially a less gnarly surface afterwards too, making clean-up easier. (On which note I strongly remember Schwarz mentioning somewhere using a random orbital with 80 grit if it's too gnarly.) My carving experience agrees with this too. A wide gouge working across the grain on a skew can hog out waste faster than anyone would expect.
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Apr 11, 2023 14:04
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Pretty happy with how this bed came out. I’m calling it English arts & crafts-ish. I’m finally getting a finish I love, even on red oak like this. It requires hand planing to come out right, but that just gives me an excuse to hand plane. I’m not entirely happy with some details of the design-I think I would make the chamfers on the posts a bit smaller, and maybe add a double lambs tongue instead of a single.   E: also who are the somewhat contemporary, famous-ish among woodworker, British people working in an arts and crafts style? I can never remember their names but I always love their work. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Apr 12, 2023 |
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Apr 12, 2023 00:31
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Not exactly fine woodworking but I knocked up this dining room table out of 27mm engineered oak board. It folds up to the wall to give us more room in the lounge. Cleaned up some old hinges I pulled off a derelict workshed.  Just need to add a stowage latch to the wall.
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Apr 12, 2023 17:45
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I'm finally starting my not-dirt-cheap clamp collection, starting with some Bessy pipe clamps. Is there a significant case to get the 1/2 over the 3/4 version? My first pending project is a 36" square tabletop, how many do I need? The answer is "always more" but I don't always have more storage space or cash
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Apr 12, 2023 18:16
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Serenade posted:My first pending project is a 36" square tabletop, how many do I need? I wouldn't be comfortable with fewer than one clamp per linear foot of surface to be clamped together. So that's 3 clamps to join boards together into the tabletop. Depending on how your tabletop is assembled, you probably are also going to want, say, 4 extra clamps to help keep the tabletop flat while the glue is drying. These clamps will be clamped to cauls (flat wood scraps, with some packing tape on them to keep glue from adhering, work well) that run across the glue joint. Without the cauls, you risk ending up with a bowed surface as the joint flexes. So that makes 7 clamps for this project. Make sure that the clamps you get are long enough to span the full width of the tabletop. I don't know how vendors measure their clamps, but I could well believe that a "36 inch" clamp might not be capable of clamping a 36"-wide surface.
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Apr 12, 2023 18:33
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The bed looks fantastic to me!Kaiser Schnitzel posted:and maybe add a double lambs tongue instead of a single. do you just mean, a lamb's tongue rather than a rounded stop?  Or what is a "double" lamb's tongue?
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Apr 12, 2023 18:57
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I wouldn't be comfortable with fewer than one clamp per linear foot of surface to be clamped together. So that's 3 clamps to join boards together into the tabletop. Depending on how your tabletop is assembled, you probably are also going to want, say, 4 extra clamps to help keep the tabletop flat while the glue is drying. These clamps will be clamped to cauls (flat wood scraps, with some packing tape on them to keep glue from adhering, work well) that run across the glue joint. Without the cauls, you risk ending up with a bowed surface as the joint flexes. So that makes 7 clamps for this project. pipe clamps screw onto black iron pipe, so you just buy lengths of pipe in the lengths you need. In this case, they're asking about 1/2" pipe vs. 3/4". IMO if you want to span more than about 2 feet you should get the 3/4", the half inch pipe isn't stiff enough. I bought four sets of clamps and a bunch of black iron pipe in different lengths. One caution is that any wood in contact with the black iron pipe may pick up a mark, and any wood glue touching the pipe will produce a spot of rust that will stain wood... so after you set up your clamps, put something like packing tape or a sheet of plastic or something between the glued wood parts and the iron pipe.
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Apr 12, 2023 19:00
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E:^^^I get galvanised pipe and it mostly solves this. Will leave a little black stain if something touches glue. Galvanized was also a little cheaper last time I looked? Serenade posted:I'm finally starting my not-dirt-cheap clamp collection, starting with some Bessy pipe clamps. Is there a significant case to get the 1/2 over the 3/4 version? My first pending project is a 36" square tabletop, how many do I need? E2: Leperflesh posted:The bed looks fantastic to me!  There’s about a million little fun variations on ‘chamfered corner meets square’
Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Apr 12, 2023 |
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Apr 12, 2023 19:33
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I finally had a chance to use that Incra mitre setup last night. I wanted to build some angled supports for the bit of table top that will overhang the table saw motor/belt area. I was slow to realize there was smaller rods to create start/stop points on the separate arms. Instead, I was fighting with a double unlocking to adjust the cut and felt dumb. Anyways, got it figured out.  Worked out pretty well.    Just have to run a section between them and then make an automotive style creeper cart for the kayak to ride on.
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Apr 12, 2023 21:04
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I am building a canopy bed for my 2 year old. Everything is working OK, but it won't fit through the door unless I make the canopy removable. Toddlers being the way they are, does anyone have any recommendations for a way to make it sturdy? What kind of hardware should I use to attach the canopy? Should I add some reinforcement to the canopy part? I am envisioning a rectangle that I can screw onto the 4 posts and remove when moving it.
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Apr 12, 2023 21:05
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ReelBigLizard posted:Not exactly fine woodworking but I knocked up this dining room table out of 27mm engineered oak board. It folds up to the wall to give us more room in the lounge. It's beautiful. I've got a soft spot for stuff made from repurposed engineered wood. I made a folding prep table from a cutoff from a butcher block countertop last year, and almost everything I make contains at least some cnc routed BB plywood
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Apr 12, 2023 21:16
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Big Dick Cheney posted:I am building a canopy bed for my 2 year old. Everything is working OK, but it won't fit through the door unless I make the canopy removable. Toddlers being the way they are, does anyone have any recommendations for a way to make it sturdy? What kind of hardware should I use to attach the canopy? Should I add some reinforcement to the canopy part? I am envisioning a rectangle that I can screw onto the 4 posts and remove when moving it. Would bolts (1/4" or 3/8" IMO) do the job here? Countersunk and properly-tightened, they won't be removable by a two-year-old. Two bolts per "leg" supporting the canopy should be plenty, assuming I'm correctly imagining how you've set this up. EDIT: vvv Wrench! Yes, thank you! TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Apr 12, 2023 |
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Apr 12, 2023 23:26
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If you really want to replicate that some-assembly-required furniture feel, use metric bolts and barrel nuts
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Apr 12, 2023 23:42
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Thanks for the answers: I was assuming 3/4 pipes would be better for larger clamping distances, and that 4 foot was in the range of "larger distances". I did forget about cauls, and have some smaller F clamps for those.
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Apr 13, 2023 00:10
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I recently needed bigger clamps but at least around here pipe has gotten incredibly expensive. Would come out to like $20 per 5 foot clamp and that would only be for 1/2", 3/4" more like $30+. Wound up just going with the 4 foot bar clamp from Harbor Freight and worked great for what I needed. All the prices I'm seeing quoted for "just use bar clamps, it's way cheaper" seem completely unreasonable considering the prices I'm seeing here. Is that the case everywhere or am I just looking at the wrong place? When you start getting more comparable to parallel clamps price wise than el cheapo bar clamps it stops being attractive to me. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Apr 13, 2023 |
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Apr 13, 2023 01:03
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I think black iron pipe did jump way up in price, yes. I find that the versatility of being able to swap pipes around is worth it but I was kinda surprised at the cost.
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Apr 14, 2023 00:54
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In the fall I needed some 5' clamps to clamp up the media console I was working on. I priced out pipe clamps from scratch and parallel bar clamps, the bar clamps were just barely more expensive than the pipe clamps. I considered getting the bar clamps, but storing 5'ers seems annoying and I don't have too many uses for the 5'. So I bought the pipe clamps and 3' and 2' lengths, 2' is perfect for 95% of what I do, but when I need more I can easily turn them to 5' or more.
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Apr 14, 2023 01:39
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Luv the lovely walnut grade rules that let this 4.5” wide knotty banana grade FAS
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Apr 14, 2023 16:15
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