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mewse posted:Follow up: I've installed one of these fake CHT nozzles and I got PTFE coated on a whim, it is shedding PETG build-up like it's allergic I have been having so much buildup on my nozzle with PETG, I may have to try this. Printing PETG was a goddamn mistake, ever since I decided to try it with my Neptune 2S, I've had no end of issues because I don't think I prepared correctly to move from PLA to PETG. I had oozing from my hotend and had several bad clogs, and I suspect the reason for that is that I never tightened everything down at the higher temps I was using for PETG on my all-metal hotend and steel nozzle. The latest problem is that I've had to disassemble my hotend so many times I guess I snapped the wire to the heating element, so now it's totally broke. Oh well, it gives me an excuse to rewire poo poo so from now on, I won't have to unravel everything to replace something; I'm installing plug-in wires for all my fans and hotend poo poo, so next time I need to swap a fan or thermistor I don't have to rewire everything.
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Apr 10, 2023 08:47
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SubNat posted:And there, finished my first test run of PLA + PETG My buddy told me about this and it's something I'm going to try when I get my MMU setup and running. He did claim you can get rid of any gaps and have the interface gap set to zero as petg and pla will not stick to each other, at least that is the claim And do we really trust crealityto make a $1k printer that runs that fast out of the box. Well maybe it will run fast but will it print well? It might be worth it for the parts alone and having a good klipper base machine Roundboy fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Apr 10, 2023 |
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Apr 10, 2023 12:46
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From what I've seen they'll stick a little bit, but come apart relatively easily. You might end up having to sand/chip away a little bit at the interface, but it's a pretty cool solution.
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Apr 10, 2023 13:57
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Roundboy posted:My buddy told me about this and it's something I'm going to try when I get my setup and running. He did claim you can get rid of any gaps and have the interface gap set to zero as petg and pla will not stick to each other, at least that is the claim I *just* saw a video about this yesterday, seems like it works well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oWAacnuViU
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Apr 10, 2023 14:11
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Roundboy posted:My buddy told me about this and it's something I'm going to try when I get my setup and running. He did claim you can get rid of any gaps and have the interface gap set to zero as petg and pla will not stick to each other, at least that is the claim Basically yeah. The interface gets printed with no gap, so they get smooshed up against eachother, but they won't bond. As for how well they stick, on flat surfaces PETG just peels off easily with your fingers, or some tweezers. In most of the cases I just needed to get a bit of purchase on a corner and the interface would get pulled off without much hassle. The main annoyance is that since they're pretty thin they're prone to breaking apart or flaking/spaghettifying.  On the main body/chassis/cockpit, the only part that touched the build surface was the large ring, everything else was either on PETG interfaces, or bridges/overhangs. As you can see, a lot of PETG dandruff as the tiny interfaces kind of flaked apart as I was removing them. (It was organic supports, with tiiiiny interface regions. The rest of the mech is printed with snug/grid supports, with way larger, flat interfaces.) On the square, bottom left corner, right below the circle you can see the difference as it went from printing on an interface, to going into bridge mode, then back again. Looks way better when smooshed against an interface, as opposed to printing in midair. On the loose leg (snug/grid supports with extra large interfaces.), all of it was printed right on interfaces, as none of it touched the bed. The main issue is really just the supports themselves, I really wish I could 'exaggerate' the interfaces to get bigger solid bits of PETG, instead of 10 separate islands. It's really satisfying to just pop off entire chunks of support, though there's still a bit of wrangling to hunt down all the individual bits. A big issue is that supports in general get obnoxious the more individual small pieces you have to support. Tempted to see if I can make some 'manual' interface blocks to thicken them up, so that a model might get 1-2 big blocks of PETG cradling it like a negative instead of 10 separate small bits that are all 2-3 layers of a few mm2.
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Apr 10, 2023 14:38
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Jedi425 posted:I have been having so much buildup on my nozzle with PETG, I may have to try this. Same. I always end up with burnt snot drops running petg.
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Apr 10, 2023 15:20
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Nerobro posted:burnt snot drops. Claiming this username.
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Apr 10, 2023 15:48
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withak posted:Claiming this username. Everyone please make use this a lot so it becomes an industry term so we see it in manuals and stuff.
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Apr 10, 2023 16:38
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Basing the entire brand identity of your new product line off of it being magical because the lid has a hinge: 
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Apr 10, 2023 20:34
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Apr 10, 2023 20:36
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mewse posted:I *just* saw a video about this yesterday, seems like it works well Do people pronunce it P E T G saying all the letters? In my head I've always said Pet G.
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Apr 10, 2023 22:20
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Listerine posted:Do people pronunce it P E T G saying all the letters? In my head I've always said Pet G. P E T G 4 L Y F
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Apr 10, 2023 22:32
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Welp. Bambu needs to be put on your poo poo list. https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1645532163780251656?s=20c They're patententing things they don't own. And there's exactly one direction this goes. (Note, i'm NOT Nero3d.)
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Apr 10, 2023 22:43
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Nerobro posted:Welp. Bambu needs to be put on your poo poo list.
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Apr 10, 2023 22:56
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They can reference other implementations to show how they are different, and that's *I think* what is happening here. But not really a good look regardless. If it's that similar...
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Apr 10, 2023 22:59
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RabbitWizard posted:I clicked the tweet instead and read the replies. So did I. Did you? ilkhan posted:They can reference other implementations to show how they are different, and that's *I think* what is happening here. But not really a good look regardless. If it's that similar... Given they tried to patent the screw mounted bed, and poop chute..... Yeah, I don't think so. Edit: Something smells fishy. This is in the examples, but.. china... 3dpNero has backed up a step or two. https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1645545036421931008?s=20 I still think we're looking at something less than savory. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Apr 10, 2023 |
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Apr 10, 2023 23:19
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Neo Rasa posted:Basing the entire brand identity of your new product line off of it being magical because the lid has a hinge: Actually a huge feature tbh Slapping a ton of resin printers on a rack is a pain with the ones where you need to lift the top off. I resorted to running them in an enclosed cabinet without the lids on.
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Apr 10, 2023 23:41
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Bodanarko posted:How's your heatbreak fan doing? I had a clogging issue plaguing me last week and had cold pulls ending up super weird and eventually realized one of the fan blades had broken off spontaneously (i probably poked it with an allen key while running) and caused the fan to jam up completely. This would result in it running decently for a few minutes before eventually clogging while the heat creep took over the whole heatbreak. The fan looks fine. Thanks - this was the kind of offbeat suggestion I was looking for. Replacing the Bowden tube didn't fix things either. I'm probably going to try one more nozzle, then cut my losses. I've had my eye on a new printer for a while anyway. This is my second S8 and the build quality is slightly shittier than the first one. The only reason I bought a second was that with a coupon, I was able to get a refurbed one for ~$100 shortly after the S9 was released. I got a year of solid use out of it and will probably try to get it running again to have a second/backup printer, so not too much of a loss. If I do end up buying a new printer, does anyone have any experience with the Artillery Sidewinder SW-X2? I have no familiarity with the brand, but it seems to have the features I want. Specifically, I want a direct drive extruder and I need at least 300 mm on the X or Y axis. The larger Elegoo Neptunes would also be great, if they were available.
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Apr 11, 2023 00:28
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Nerobro posted:Welp. Bambu needs to be put on your poo poo list. I got a recent blog post from Bambu in my news feed and apparently Bambu is run/owned by a cringe fourteen year old or something, idk https://blog.bambulab.com/let-the-arms-race-begin/
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Apr 11, 2023 00:45
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What's the sweet spot for value and capabilities re: resin printers nowadays, I haven't been paying attention to anything that isnt a commercial dental printer for a long while now. A phrozen offering, like it was a year ago? my Mars Pro is very long in the tooth and I want something with a bigger print area + mono screen that has the same 49um X/Y-step resolution or better. Main interest is printing weird little high-detail molds, tools and masters/positives for producing silicone moulds from.
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Apr 11, 2023 02:08
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w00tmonger posted:Actually a huge feature tbh Speaking of enclosures, something interesting about it if I understand correctly is that thanks to the back section required for it to have a lid it has a much larger filter/air purifier setup built into which is pretty cool.
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Apr 11, 2023 02:47
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Ambrose Burnside posted:What's the sweet spot for value and capabilities re: resin printers nowadays, I haven't been paying attention to anything that isnt a commercial dental printer for a long while now. A phrozen offering, like it was a year ago? my Mars Pro is very long in the tooth and I want something with a bigger print area + mono screen that has the same 49um X/Y-step resolution or better. Main interest is printing weird little high-detail molds, tools and masters/positives for producing silicone moulds from. imo Anycubic Photon Mono X is a couple years old now, but myself and others have had good luck buying "used" models off Anycubic's official ebay page for $150 + tax. Other people have reported brand new in box machines. Mine was new with a used vat/FEP, plus 2 kg of anycubic resin in the box. It's possible to get a broken or dirty machine but there are multiple reviews from people on ebay who got reimbursement or replacement parts from them if there were severe issues. 10bux more gets you the Mono x 6k, but there are less reviews of those, maybe higher risk of busted machines? ymmv, it's definitely listed in "as-is" condition but my experience was fantastic.
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Apr 11, 2023 03:33
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Neo Rasa posted:Basing the entire brand identity of your new product line off of it being magical because the lid has a hinge: 
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Apr 11, 2023 03:42
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Neo Rasa posted:Basing the entire brand identity of your new product line off of it being magical because the lid has a hinge: magearch hinge? more like major cringe Listerine posted:Do people pronunce it P E T G saying all the letters? In my head I've always said Pet G. i say P E T. we don't say "plah" or "abs" and the G is unnecessary unless you're talking to a plastics engineer and need to be that specific. i will also refer to it as polyester from time to time. Nerobro posted:Welp. Bambu needs to be put on your poo poo list. all of this is deleted. how do people still not know that you have to screenshot controversial tweets? ffs Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Apr 11, 2023 |
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Apr 11, 2023 04:10
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Bodanarko posted:imo Anycubic Photon Mono X is a couple years old now, but myself and others have had good luck buying "used" models off Anycubic's official ebay page for $150 + tax. Other people have reported brand new in box machines. Mine was new with a used vat/FEP, plus 2 kg of anycubic resin in the box. It's possible to get a broken or dirty machine but there are multiple reviews from people on ebay who got reimbursement or replacement parts from them if there were severe issues. 10bux more gets you the Mono x 6k, but there are less reviews of those, maybe higher risk of busted machines? Ambrose Burnside posted:What's the sweet spot for value and capabilities re: resin printers nowadays, I haven't been paying attention to anything that isnt a commercial dental printer for a long while now. A phrozen offering, like it was a year ago? my Mars Pro is very long in the tooth and I want something with a bigger print area + mono screen that has the same 49um X/Y-step resolution or better. Main interest is printing weird little high-detail molds, tools and masters/positives for producing silicone moulds from. Anycubic still has a few printers for sale on their site too if it's within your range, they have the Anycubic Photon Mono X for $189 instead of $289 and the Mono X 6K $359 instead of $689.
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Apr 11, 2023 04:27
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Sagebrush posted:all of this is deleted. how do people still not know that you have to screenshot controversial tweets? ffs It was deleted because the guy was informed that he was wrong. https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1645545036421931008
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Apr 11, 2023 05:23
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He deleted due it being wrong and bad info. Editing correct info would have better, but he's gonna try to shovel it under the rug. My Voron is officially VT.1054!
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Apr 11, 2023 11:14
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I printed again for the first time in a year or so. Printed some Black Lotuses for my MtG playing friends.
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Apr 11, 2023 17:28
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Howdy thread, I've been interested in 3d printing for a while, but I've got enough hobbies as it is and have several friends and family members with printers so never really pursued it. Yesterday my brother offered me an Anycubic Photon Mono X resin printer free of charge, only catch is that it has a busted LCD screen that will need to be replaced. I think I can replace the screen for around $150ish or so, but I'm wondering if it's worth it? Looks like this model is mentioned in the OP as being decent, but with the pace that tech seems to be advancing I thought I'd better get a sanity check first. Use case is basically just screwing around, and maybe printing minis for our ttrpg group and gadgets for my aquariums.
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Apr 11, 2023 18:00
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Enos Cabell posted:Howdy thread, I've been interested in 3d printing for a while, but I've got enough hobbies as it is and have several friends and family members with printers so never really pursued it. Yesterday my brother offered me an Anycubic Photon Mono X resin printer free of charge, only catch is that it has a busted LCD screen that will need to be replaced. I think I can replace the screen for around $150ish or so, but I'm wondering if it's worth it? Looks like this model is mentioned in the OP as being decent, but with the pace that tech seems to be advancing I thought I'd better get a sanity check first. Use case is basically just screwing around, and maybe printing minis for our ttrpg group and gadgets for my aquariums. I'm very new at this but for all hobbies I've been in the camp of starting with a cheaper thing for the just screwing around part, then if it turns out I'm deep into it at that point I give it to a friend/sell it/whatever and get a more expensive/complex/whatever one. I will say though I notice all the resin printer makers seem to have some crazy flash sale or whatever almost once a month. I'm going through this myself after I was thinking of getting myself one at the end of the year but there's always some deal and I genuinely don't think I'm going to notice the difference between like 6K and 8K. Neo Rasa fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Apr 11, 2023 |
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Apr 11, 2023 18:22
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Seems like you ought to be able to get that lcd for less than $150, from alie or something
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Apr 11, 2023 19:02
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I print something on the Ender-3 Pro, it prints fine, then after the entire gantry sinks, like the z motor died or something, auto home just makes it drag across the bed surface, but I can through the Ender's controls move the axes/tell it to extrude/whatever and everything's working fine. It doesn't feel particularly hot while working. If I just turn the switch off and on again it works fine, but then after a couple of prints it happens again. Is this just something overheating? I think everything is calibrated correctly because even when this happens, I can immediately tell the Ender to move the hot end anywhere throughout the printer's range and it works fine, there's no clog as it extrudes/purges/etc. without issue, just something is making the auto home suddenly not understand that it's not supposed to be burying itself in the bed. That brings me to my next question, Ender-3 firmware. It's, uh, fine? But supposedly there's a lot of better custom ones, is there a thread consensus on the best?
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Apr 11, 2023 22:49
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Speaking of Ender 3 problems, mine has started acting up and I'm at my wit's end trying to fix it. The extruder is 'clicking' and snapping back like 15° seemingly at random, and the first layer is basically just a bunch of tiny dots. -re-leveled the bed in case it got too close, first layer height is 0.2mm and using a feeler gauge that's where I set the nozzle height -temp settings are the same as when it was working fine -tried other rolls of filament, including one fresh out of the vacuum seal. -checked if the nozzle was blocked (it wasn't) -replaced the nozzle anyway -replaced the bowden tube
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Apr 11, 2023 23:09
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How’s your thermistor looking? Could be loose or worn or broken and reporting bad temps.
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Apr 11, 2023 23:10
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At rest it says the bed and nozzle are 23°, which matches room temp. And they read 200°/60° when running, which is what they're set at. I haven't taken the head apart though, I guess that's the next step.
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Apr 11, 2023 23:43
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Floppychop posted:At rest it says the bed and nozzle are 23°, which matches room temp. And they read 200°/60° when running, which is what they're set at. I haven't taken the head apart though, I guess that's the next step. When I first got mine it wasn't as bad as you describe but when I took it apart there was a ton of what turned out to be ABS that had flooded around the inner perimeter of the nozzle so took care of it (I was only printing PLA so I guess it wasn't hot enough to purge it. I think it was around the nozzle enough that it was causing everything temperature wise to be out of whack.
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Apr 11, 2023 23:49
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Floppychop posted:At rest it says the bed and nozzle are 23°, which matches room temp. And they read 200°/60° when running, which is what they're set at. I haven't taken the head apart though, I guess that's the next step. Before you dismantle the whole thing (unless you're there already) - get the hot end up to printing temp, remove the nozzle and the Bowden tube, and shove a 1.5mm Allen wrench down through the throat. If a little slug of really sludgy filament comes out, that's likely the problem. Sometimes you don't notice that the Bowden tube has maybe crept up in the throat a little bit, and isn't flush with the top of the nozzle anymore. That leaves just enough of a gap for the filament to expand horizontally into, creating a really fun little clog that often doesn't really hinder printing until said filament has been heated and cooled a bunch of times and turns into an entirely new element that science hasn't fully defined yet. We'll call it Cloggium. It may not actually be your problem, but it's fast and easy to check for. 
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Apr 11, 2023 23:52
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Acid Reflux posted:Cloggium. Speaking of bowden gaps... https://i.imgur.com/YFvfO2k.jpeg
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Apr 12, 2023 00:01
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That is a stunningly perfect specimen.
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Apr 12, 2023 00:23
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New Rook version - same BOM but built with 2020 extrusions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YeRHIOfXnk
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Apr 12, 2023 01:06
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