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now that the weather is nice again, i'm using my patio door often (well my dog is). it's a pella french door multipoint lock and it's more annoying to close and lock as it should be. now in this little video they provide, at the start you can see the handle is horizontal. however with me door, if I return the handle to horizontal, the multipoint locks come out. that means that if I open and close the door without holding the handle down the entire time, those locks come out, and the bottom one drags against the concrete patio. Basically, how do I get the three locks to retract when the handle is horizontal when opening and closing? it doesn't seem to matter what position the thumbturn lock/latch is in, which is confusing. thanks! https://pella.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/95/~/locking-and-unlocking-hinged-patio-door-with-multipoint-lock https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0NiV0Ur4Oo actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Apr 10, 2023 |
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Apr 10, 2023 23:40
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I've got a Symmons Temptrol in my shower I've been trying to fix. It's leaking and the mixing is bad. I replaced the spindle but found it also needed new seats. Unfortunately this thing is probably 30 years old so those seats are NOT coming out. So, new plan, cut a fuckin' hole in the wall and replace the whole thing.  So I have limited room to maneuver in there, also limited experience in pipe soldering. Also no torch or solder or anything, but I could pick some up if that's my best option. So any ideas on what my options are for cutting that thing out of there and getting the new one in?
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Apr 12, 2023 00:36
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I’ve got this valve that under the sink that drips slowly but only when it’s shut off. As a matter of fact, you can see it dripping in this photo. It’s old, but not older than the 1980s. After a cursory web review, basic/tier 1 handyman info says to correct this, tighten the packing nut slightly. This correct?
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Apr 12, 2023 02:55
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kreeningsons posted:I’ve got this valve that under the sink that drips slowly but only when it’s shut off. As a matter of fact, you can see it dripping in this photo. It’s old, but not older than the 1980s. After a cursory web review, basic/tier 1 handyman info says to correct this, tighten the packing nut slightly. This correct?
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Apr 12, 2023 03:00
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kreeningsons posted:I’ve got this valve that under the sink that drips slowly but only when it’s shut off. As a matter of fact, you can see it dripping in this photo. It’s old, but not older than the 1980s. After a cursory web review, basic/tier 1 handyman info says to correct this, tighten the packing nut slightly. This correct? Yes, and that will likely make it stop dripping. BUT, it still needs to be replaced. The next time you operate that valve it will most likely leak and not stop leaking. If you need to nurse it along for a bit you may be successful with loosening the packing before closing or opening the valve, but it's all dried up in there and any "normal" operation is just going to risk breaking pieces off. I'd replace it with a quarter turn, but if you can't/don't want to sweat pipe you may be able to take your picture to a local hardware store and ask the oldest dude who works there if they have one of those exact valves or the repair parts.
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Apr 12, 2023 14:01
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Those are not sweat connections. It can be replaced with a quarter-turn compression valve.
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Apr 12, 2023 14:20
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Do those kinds of valves have any advantage over quarter turn valves? Those things seem to be nothin but problems and yet they are everywhere whereas quarter turn valves are fantastic.
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Apr 12, 2023 14:40
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PainterofCrap posted:Those are not sweat connections. It can be replaced with a quarter-turn compression valve. Oh hey, that's what I get for posting before sufficient coffee. That's much easier to deal with.
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Apr 12, 2023 14:47
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Do those kinds of valves have any advantage over quarter turn valves? Those things seem to be nothin but problems and yet they are everywhere whereas quarter turn valves are fantastic.
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Apr 12, 2023 15:08
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Ty for the advice. However,PainterofCrap posted:quarter-turn compression valve What is this? Do you mean quarter turn ball valve (superior) or compression valve (what I have now, but not a 90 degree bend)?
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Apr 12, 2023 15:55
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Anyone have experience converting/sealing an existing shower to give it steam shower functionality? I have a big step-in shower with glass sliding doors that I could seal well-enough (there's only a small gap between them) and the frame reaches almost to the ceiling anyway. I could add a glass insert with a sliding portion for ventilation at the top, make an angles tile section for the ceiling to handle condensation and then toss in a bench, I guess? I've yet to find a regular showerhead that has a steam setting, unless my smooth brain is glossing over them. I'd love to avoid a tear-out for a dedicated steam unit.
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Apr 12, 2023 17:33
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Inzombiac posted:Anyone have experience converting/sealing an existing shower to give it steam shower functionality? If you adjust the valve, it's possible to get "a good amount" of steam just cranking the temp as far as it'll go (and avoiding scalding yourself). Not sure if this would work for you.
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Apr 12, 2023 17:43
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CubicalSucrose posted:If you adjust the valve, it's possible to get "a good amount" of steam just cranking the temp as far as it'll go (and avoiding scalding yourself). Not sure if this would work for you. Maybe, I just don't want to be dumping a ton of unused water.
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Apr 12, 2023 17:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Do those kinds of valves have any advantage over quarter turn valves? Those things seem to be nothin but problems and yet they are everywhere whereas quarter turn valves are fantastic. You can replace the stem and seat washers on multi turn valves if they leak. You can't do that on quarter turn valves. That being said, those rubber washers rot and break away in 8-10 years anyway.
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Apr 12, 2023 18:32
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kreeningsons posted:Ty for the advice. However, What you have is a multi turn straight valve, 1/2" compression inlet and 3/8" compression outlet. The superior replacement is a quarter turn straight valve, 1/2" compression inlet and 3/8" compression outlet. Leave the old compression nut and ferrule on the pipe. They will (ideally) thread on your new valve. Now I have seen where the ferrule is too far from the tip that it won't fit a new valve. In that case, file down the end of the copper.
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Apr 12, 2023 18:37
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Since we're talking shut off valves, I've had in my mind to work on replacing all mine with new quarter turns. The existing multiturns are ~20 years old from new construction and make me nervous every time I need to use one. Here's what I've got throughout the house-  1/2" cpvc attached with a compression fitting. I've never removed one since we bought the house so I don't know what the pipe or ferrule look like under the compression nut. What's my best method for attaching the new shut offs? Stay with compression? Sharkbite? Glue on threaded adapters? Shutoffs with cpvc inlets?
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Apr 12, 2023 19:45
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While we're talking replacing plumbing, are SharkBites legit? I need to replace a broken hose bibb and was about to call a plumber since I didn't want to deal with copper soldering, but saw some people talk about doing it with SharkBite fittings and PVC or PEX. That looks easy enough but is there a catch? (I'm in the south so there's no real freezing concern)
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Apr 12, 2023 19:55
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dupersaurus posted:While we're talking replacing plumbing, are SharkBites legit? I need to replace a broken hose bibb and was about to call a plumber since I didn't want to deal with copper soldering, but saw some people talk about doing it with SharkBite fittings and PVC or PEX. That looks easy enough but is there a catch? (I'm in the south so there's no real freezing concern) It's a semi-regular talking point with opinions varying from "they're fine" to "never in my house", but in general the HCH consensus is SharkBites are acceptable for short-term fixes (let's say <1 year) and they are only to be used in areas where the fitting will always be visible (i.e., never put them behind drywall). They are easy and will likely work, but will not be as reliable long-term as soldering copper pipe. That said, incredibly highly recommended to have 1/2" and 3/4" SharkBite endcaps on-hand at all times (https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-Brass-End-Stop-Fitting-Pro-Pack-4-Pack-U514LFJ4/305971899), as they are an amazing emergency fix if something starts leaking to the point where you need to turn the water off to stop it. Water off, cut pipe, put on cap, then you can turn the water back so it is running to everywhere else in the house, and you don't need to pay for a 5-alarm emergency call to the plumber. Also if you would rather spend the money a plumber would require to fix it on a torch, a few tools, and some supplies instead, there are a whole lot of people here who would be more than happy to talk you through the basics of soldering copper so you can do it yourself this time and most/all future times something like this comes up. It is pretty easy if you follow the prep work steps, and you can buy a length of pipe and some couplings to practice on before going in for the real deal.
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Apr 12, 2023 22:32
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Slugworth posted:Cheaper is an advantage, right? Do they even make them anymore? I haven't seen one in the store in ages, they're all quarter turn
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Apr 12, 2023 23:00
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kreeningsons posted:Ty for the advice. However, Quarter-turn valve, compression fitting install
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Apr 13, 2023 00:25
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Blowjob Overtime posted:It's a semi-regular talking point with opinions varying from "they're fine" to "never in my house", but in general the HCH consensus is SharkBites are acceptable for short-term fixes (let's say <1 year) and they are only to be used in areas where the fitting will always be visible (i.e., never put them behind drywall). They are easy and will likely work, but will not be as reliable long-term as soldering copper pipe. Yeah I think I’m leaning towards trying out soldering after all. I’ve read and watched some stuff but I’ll take anything else y’all can throw at me. I’m familiar with electrical soldering if that matters any.
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Apr 13, 2023 00:41
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dupersaurus posted:Yeah I think I’m leaning towards trying out soldering after all. I’ve read and watched some stuff but I’ll take anything else y’all can throw at me. I’m familiar with electrical soldering if that matters any. It's the same basic concept as electrical or jewelry soldering, just bigger. Keep it clean, apply flux, heat the joint evenly, solder flows towards heat. Make sure to test your joints before you bury anything. You might want to buy a soldering blanket to protect what's near/behind the pipe. Also remember to clean the cut ends of the pipe e.g. with a flathead screwdriver, to remove any small, sharp scraps of metal that you don't want in your water. Oh, and don't try to solder a pipe that has water in it. I hope the reason for this is obvious, but it still took me a bit to figure out when I was doing my first copper pipe soldering. 
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Apr 13, 2023 01:06
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Oh, and don't try to solder a pipe that has water in it. I hope the reason for this is obvious, but it still took me a bit to figure out when I was doing my first copper pipe soldering. For anyone having a brain fart, it's because water absorbs a poo poo ton of heat. You will spend a fortune on blowtorch gas by boiling water away. There are faster and cheaper ways of draining pipes. My favorite method of removing it is the same thing you did as a kid with a fountain soda to drink a strawful of soda at a time. Stick some tubing down the pipe, cover the end with your thumb and pull out the tube.
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Apr 13, 2023 02:15
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You will never be able to get the work hot enough to properly flow solder. It has to be dry. If you have a lateral run that you can’t drain, there’s always the bread trick. Take a slice of bread, tear off a hunk, ball it up & shove it into the pipe a few inches. After you’ve soldered up the work, play the torch on the pipe section to toast the bread, then flush it out through the nearest tap (not your water heater!)
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Apr 13, 2023 02:23
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PainterofCrap posted:Take a slice of bread, tear off a hunk, ball it up & shove it into the pipe a few inches. After you’ve soldered up the work, play the torch on the pipe section to toast the bread, then flush it out through the nearest tap (not your water heater!) If you for some reaon can't drain because of slope, and that happens a lot......THIS is the true way. It just works great. You need to be quick about it before the bread gets soaked so get all of your prep done, jam that bread in, touch up the flux if necessary and GO.
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Apr 13, 2023 02:38
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I discovered a trail of ants coming out of a light switch in my kitchen. Is this of any particular concern? I mean, the ants I'm used to, just usually they come in through cracks near the baseboard or trim or something.
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Apr 13, 2023 15:57
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I discovered a trail of ants coming out of a light switch in my kitchen. Is this of any particular concern? I mean, the ants I'm used to, just usually they come in through cracks near the baseboard or trim or something. I'd be concerned about moisture in/near that wall and how it got there.
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Apr 13, 2023 16:02
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Switches and outlets are a pretty common entry point for ants. I mean after all, they're a gap in the wall, just like any baseboard crack.
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Apr 13, 2023 16:25
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Motronic posted:I'd be concerned about moisture in/near that wall and how it got there. I'm the same goon that has the cheap additional room with the leaky flat roof. This outlet shares a wall with that room, so if there's any extra moisture, that's probably how it got in. Plus side is that I have everything I need to fix the roof and the weather's finally gotten better, so I should be able to stop any further intrusions (until the roof needs to be completely replaced, anyway). alnilam posted:Switches and outlets are a pretty common entry point for ants. I mean after all, they're a gap in the wall, just like any baseboard crack. That's what I figured, just wasn't sure if I needed to worry about my cables getting chewed on or electrified super-ants or something.
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Apr 13, 2023 16:42
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I got a new refrigerator and discovered that the water inlet is just a long piece of copper which I would like to remedy since that doesn't seem ideal long term? The old refrigerator had the fitting on the old one pointing up but this new one is pointing down so if I were to keep this at minimum I would need to bend it. It seems like something I should be able to easily do myself rather than call a plumber but I also don't know exactly what might be involved. What all do I need to do this or should I call someone out?
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Apr 14, 2023 18:46
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I got a new refrigerator and discovered that the water inlet is just a long piece of copper which I would like to remedy since that doesn't seem ideal long term? The old refrigerator had the fitting on the old one pointing up but this new one is pointing down so if I were to keep this at minimum I would need to bend it. It seems like something I should be able to easily do myself rather than call a plumber but I also don't know exactly what might be involved. What all do I need to do this or should I call someone out? That should be put in a proper box, and the other side is almost definitely a saddle valve that is going to leak. Basically what I did here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3967128&pagenumber=4#post521579582
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Apr 14, 2023 20:30
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Motronic posted:That should be put in a proper box, and the other side is almost definitely a saddle valve that is going to leak. if soldering copper water pipes seems too intimidating does that mean I should just get a plumber?
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Apr 14, 2023 20:51
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:if soldering copper water pipes seems too intimidating does that mean I should just get a plumber? Assuming that what you have are copper water pipes then yes. It's possible you have pex which is a lot easier for someone without any experience to work with, but I doubt it based on that picture.
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Apr 14, 2023 21:02
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I got a new refrigerator and discovered that the water inlet is just a long piece of copper which I would like to remedy since that doesn't seem ideal long term? The old refrigerator had the fitting on the old one pointing up but this new one is pointing down so if I were to keep this at minimum I would need to bend it. It seems like something I should be able to easily do myself rather than call a plumber but I also don't know exactly what might be involved. What all do I need to do this or should I call someone out? Just bend it. That copper is soft. Just make a long bend. If you make a turn too tight, it might bend and kink. I'm which case, cut out the kink and use a union. What's the shut off valve look like? If it's a saddle valve, you should replace it. They always leak. There's one plumbing product from Sioux Chief called Add-A-Line that is especially for ice makers and humidifiers. Basically, you cut out one inch of your 1/2" copper pipe, slide on the compression nuts and ferrules, then center the valve over the cut and tighten the nuts. Try to do it where you'll be able to bend the pipe just enough to slide the tee onto your pipe. You may need to temporarily remove a pipe clamp to do it. Keep enough slack behind your fridge so that there's enough length to pull out your fridge so you'll be able to reach the supply line. The real trick is laying the supply line so that it will fold up hidden behind the fridge once you push it into position.
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Apr 14, 2023 22:57
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Spent all day scraping up the hideous tile in one of my bathrooms. Underneath the tile and mortar was….more tile. They’d just put a layer of the most hideous, 1x1” discount bullshit over what was already there. Not sure if I’ll be able to scrape it level without damaging the OTHER tile underneath. Should I just plan on removing tile again?
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Apr 15, 2023 01:48
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Remove it all. You'll probably ruin the finish of whatever is underneath trying to get the stuff on top off.
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Apr 15, 2023 01:56
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Put the top tile layer back and then tile over it.
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Apr 15, 2023 03:40
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I think it’s just like some rollout fake tile? https://twitter.com/formerlyfiz/status/1647283234273742849?s=46&t=JBd6ZXmGQ3LmWL-ineTnAA
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Apr 15, 2023 17:59
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FizFashizzle posted:I think it’s just like some rollout fake tile? Is this person looking for the word "linoleum"? E: wait are you seriously linking your own twitter posts to the thread? jfc
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Apr 15, 2023 18:00
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 What is this outer threaded part of my fixture called? I want to get some cool like dish shaped things to screw on there at the bottom of the led tube bulbs i put in to make them look candle-like and reflect more light up. I just dont know what term i'm shopping for.
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Apr 15, 2023 18:46
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