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tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

RillAkBea posted:

Mark Softer and Mark Setter are getting an updated formula with a new bottle and new price. Unsurprisingly Japanese hobby Twitter is furious. :v:

I wonder if this will be the same formula as the Mr Mark Softer / Setter 'Neo' version that they sell in Europe with allegedly less potent chemicals (and so doesn't work as well).

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Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

therunningman posted:

Finished my version of the classic Tamiya Panzer 2! I've been wanting to make a ratty looking Africa tank and I had so much fun trying all kinds of things on this build.

Great learning experience for the bigger more complex kits I have waiting. I'm really hooked now.:thanks:










Fabulous. Straight outta North Afrika. Nice work.

As to the decal solution controversy... In a thousand years or two, when I've gone through my bottles of Mark Set/Soft, I'll worry about the new formula.

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




FPyat posted:

Trumpeter has been mostly good but their 15-inch gun turrets unfortunately have droopy barrels.

Look that battleship is like 90 years old that's just how age works

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.

Gewehr 43 posted:

Fabulous. Straight outta North Afrika. Nice work.

Thanks! The hairspray technique was alot of fun. The paint came off in large chunks so if I do it again I think I would combine it with sponge chipping for a finer appearance.

The pinwash was much easier with a long thin liner brush as opposed to a regular brush.

Learned how to keep the airbrush from clogging too!

Dr. VooDoo
May 4, 2006


This is gonna be some babby modeler level posting but: I was skeptical that the seams and uneven sections of this model would line up even with sanding, I was sure I messed it up but now I’m looking at a completely smooth arm with no visible seam at all and I feel like I have the biggest brain in the universe. Real good feeling

FrozenVent
May 1, 2009

The Boeing 737-200QC is the undisputed workhorse of the skies.

Dr. VooDoo posted:

This is gonna be some babby modeler level posting but: I was skeptical that the seams and uneven sections of this model would line up even with sanding, I was sure I messed it up but now I’m looking at a completely smooth arm with no visible seam at all and I feel like I have the biggest brain in the universe. Real good feeling

It’s amazing isn’t it?

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Dr. VooDoo posted:

This is gonna be some babby modeler level posting but: I was skeptical that the seams and uneven sections of this model would line up even with sanding, I was sure I messed it up but now I’m looking at a completely smooth arm with no visible seam at all and I feel like I have the biggest brain in the universe. Real good feeling

I'm still working out all the vagaries and kinks in my own seam-filling skill, trying a handful of different techniques (Tamiya White, Surfacer 500, dissolved plastic, straight up Tamiya Extra Thin) to see which I like best. I feel like, so far, the first two have been the big winners for me. Dissolving plastic into a gapfiller sludge is a lot of work for little gain after painting, and Extra Thin doesn't work as great if there are more problems than just a gap in the seam--I'm thinking about this katana sheath I have for a figure I'm putting together and how the whole fitment seems slightly misaligned to the point where I need to shave a whole couple microns off either side to line things up.

Meanwhile the parts I did with Tamiya White came out drat near perfect, and only my poo poo tier sanding technique is mucking things up.

Dr. VooDoo
May 4, 2006


FrozenVent posted:

It’s amazing isn’t it?

Grumio
Sep 20, 2001

in culina est
Until you base coat it and it turns out it's still visible :ssh:

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Dr. VooDoo posted:

This is gonna be some babby modeler level posting but: I was skeptical that the seams and uneven sections of this model would line up even with sanding, I was sure I messed it up but now I’m looking at a completely smooth arm with no visible seam at all and I feel like I have the biggest brain in the universe. Real good feeling

Shot.

Grumio posted:

Until you base coat it and it turns out it's still visible :ssh:

Chaser.

In my own example, you buffed out the seam line, but now you have sanding scratches and you're missing a few steps of high-grit.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
I've found using miliput to fill gaps results in a really obvious spot where the filled gap is super smooth to the point that it's really obvious. My next step is learning how to sand miliput to look as sanded as whatever I am trying to fill.

Dr. VooDoo
May 4, 2006


Warmachine posted:

Shot.

Chaser.

In my own example, you buffed out the seam line, but now you have sanding scratches and you're missing a few steps of high-grit.

I got a pack of these little guys to use after sanding. I have a tiny fine mist bottle. You give one pump or two on the surface and then go through the grits from the least to finest and you end up with a polished plastic surface with no marks

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Dr. VooDoo posted:

I got a pack of these little guys to use after sanding. I have a tiny fine mist bottle. You give one pump or two on the surface and then go through the grits from the least to finest and you end up with a polished plastic surface with no marks

I've been trying wet sanding more and more recently. It seems to just produce flatly better results and I don't think I understand why. Does the water make the dust less likely to clog the grit or something?

Raskolnikov38
Mar 3, 2007

We were somewhere around Manila when the drugs began to take hold
yeah wet sandpaper lasts longer because the dust doesn’t get jammed up between the grit as easily.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
I had sandpaper that turned to mush as soon as I put it near water, so make sure it's good for wet sanding first.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.
I have found my favorite filler in the Tamiya basic putty. Dries quick and sands real easy.
The more materials and tools i acquire it seems like everything Tamiya "just works".

I have a Tamiya 1/35 Challenger 1 I picked up on a private sale with some Eduard photo etch. It looks pretty intimidating.
Any tips for a first time photo etch attempt? Any tool must haves?

Raskolnikov38
Mar 3, 2007

We were somewhere around Manila when the drugs began to take hold
I like mr hobby’s dissolved putty. I’ll use spackle and CA for giant gaps of like 3mm or more

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

therunningman posted:

Any tips for a first time photo etch attempt? Any tool must haves?

A tile or similar hard surface to cut the PE off the fret - if you use a regular cutting mat it'll deform the PE and it'll be more difficult to get a clean cut.

A curved craft knife blade will last longer than a pointy ended one cutting against a tile.

A bending tool isn't strictly necessary when you're starting out but is useful for folding larger pieces of etch, and etch that doesn't already have 'bend points' (for want of a better term) etched into them, however some wide flat ended tweezers are essential.

A file, like tamiya's diamond PE file, is really useful for cleaning up and removing the leftover stubs.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
Another must have for me when it comes to PE is liquid super glue and an applicator. Put a small puddle of liquid super glue on a piece of foil or masking tape, then use something like a glue looper to apply the glue to the two pieces of PE. Capillary action draws the glue into the join and viola! you've got a nice clean, strong bond.

Raskolnikov38 posted:

I like mr hobby’s dissolved putty. I’ll use spackle and CA for giant gaps of like 3mm or more

I typically fill gaps like that with a strip of styrene card stock. There are quite a few of those in my big dumb p-38 project right now.

Dr. VooDoo
May 4, 2006


“I’m just going in to get some clear matte and gloss spray, that’s it” I tell myself, entering my hobby shop, until seeing they got a shipment of new kits in today and leaving with a The Fly monster kit

This is dangerous

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Dr. VooDoo posted:

“I’m just going in to get some clear matte and gloss spray, that’s it” I tell myself, entering my hobby shop, until seeing they got a shipment of new kits in today and leaving with a The Fly monster kit

This is dangerous

Last time I was in Vegas I went to the hobby shop a block from the Orleans on a lark and ended up leaving with a 1/16th Easy 8 sherman!

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



IncredibleIgloo posted:

Last time I was in Vegas I went to the hobby shop a block from the Orleans on a lark and ended up leaving with a 1/16th Easy 8 sherman!

There are worse ways to spend money in Vegas.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Warmachine posted:

There are worse ways to spend money in Vegas.

True! I do love Vegas though. I spent 15 bucks to meet an opossum at a Zoo in a defunct mall. Very fun!

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



IncredibleIgloo posted:

Last time I was in Vegas I went to the hobby shop a block from the Orleans on a lark and ended up leaving with a 1/16th Easy 8 sherman!

Island?

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011






Yes, that is it exactly. Also picked up some Tamiya Panel Liner, some weather pencils and pigments as well. Have not had a chance to build the tank or use any of the stuff yet though!

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.

quote:

A tile or similar hard surface to cut the PE off the fret - if you use a regular cutting mat it'll deform the PE and it'll be more difficult to get a clean cut.

A curved craft knife blade will last longer than a pointy ended one cutting against a tile.

A bending tool isn't strictly necessary when you're starting out but is useful for folding larger pieces of etch, and etch that doesn't already have 'bend points' (for want of a better term) etched into them, however some wide flat ended tweezers are essential.

A file, like tamiya's diamond PE file, is really useful for cleaning up and removing the leftover stubs.

quote:

Another must have for me when it comes to PE is liquid super glue and an applicator. Put a small puddle of liquid super glue on a piece of foil or masking tape, then use something like a glue looper to apply the glue to the two pieces of PE. Capillary action draws the glue into the join and viola! you've got a nice clean, strong bond.

That's really great info, thanks!

Who else has a Super-Hobby shopping cart a mile long with 12 shades of olive green before realizing that these companies are in the business of selling paint?

It reminds me alot about shopping for fishing gear. :20bux:

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





therunningman posted:

That's really great info, thanks!

Who else has a Super-Hobby shopping cart a mile long with 12 shades of olive green before realizing that these companies are in the business of selling paint?

It reminds me alot about shopping for fishing gear. :20bux:

If you are doing military models 12 shades of olive green seems about the amount you need.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



IncredibleIgloo posted:

If you are doing military models 12 shades of olive green seems about the amount you need.

Some of that is buying your way out of spending time, once you get to lvl 15 rivet counter you'll mix your own to win internet slap fights about what "khaki" is.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Midjack posted:

Some of that is buying your way out of spending time, once you get to lvl 15 rivet counter you'll mix your own to win internet slap fights about what "khaki" is.

Level 20 is doing your own research and creating your own paint line : https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



IncredibleIgloo posted:

Level 20 is doing your own research and creating your own paint line : https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/

Level 25 is sourcing the official paints used by the manufacturer of the real world hardware.

Level 30 is arguing that those aren't the right color.

Smoke
Mar 12, 2005

I am NOT a red Bumblebee for god's sake!

Gun Saliva

Warmachine posted:

Level 25 is sourcing the official paints used by the manufacturer of the real world hardware.

Level 30 is arguing that those aren't the right color.

Level 50 is trying to build a time machine so you can go back to WW2 and make sure you have the exact right shade as none of the remaining samples are accurate due to UV exposure, age and repaints over the years and the few color pictures around cannot be trusted for similar reasons.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Having the same paint color as the manufacturer would be wrong anyways since colors appear darker on smaller surfaces

nomad2020
Jan 30, 2007

therunningman posted:

That's really great info, thanks!

Who else has a Super-Hobby shopping cart a mile long with 12 shades of olive green before realizing that these companies are in the business of selling paint?

It reminds me alot about shopping for fishing gear. :20bux:

Have you considered mixing your own colors? Serious question, I've dabbled with oil paints and it's really cool once you figure out that you really only need a handful of colors. Plus a handful more to help you skip steps.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
I believe Ensign Expendable mixed his own paint using the field manual instructions for the IS-3 crapkit build we did here.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

therunningman posted:

That's really great info, thanks!

Oh, another huge tip for PE... use fresh super glue. CA doesn't have a super great shelf life though storing it in the fridge can help keep it good a little longer. I've moved from buying 1oz bottles of CA glues to buying the little 3g metal tubes as that forces me to buy new glue periodically. Old CA just doesn't stick or hold as well.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

Arquinsiel posted:

I believe Ensign Expendable mixed his own paint using the field manual instructions for the IS-3 crapkit build we did here.

That wasn't me, IIRC someone made their own paint from boiling down grass, which was a thing you could do for uniforms at least.

I painted my crapkit in the nastiest metallic enamel I had and then gave it alternating gold and silver rims.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.

quote:

Have you considered mixing your own colors? Serious question, I've dabbled with oil paints and it's really cool once you figure out that you really only need a handful of colors. Plus a handful more to help you skip steps.

I've a few different shades of base colors but mixing everything from a limited palette is something I have not considered but would in my case save time as ordering anything takes at least a week to have delivered.

quote:

Oh, another huge tip for PE... use fresh super glue. CA doesn't have a super great shelf life though storing it in the fridge can help keep it good a little longer. I've moved from buying 1oz bottles of CA glues to buying the little 3g metal tubes as that forces me to buy new glue periodically. Old CA just doesn't stick or hold as well.

Good to know! I just bought fresh CA glue and will keep it in the fridge when I'm not using it. Is there anything to the black version that has rubber mixed in or is that just marketing?


quote:

I painted my crapkit in the nastiest metallic enamel I had and then gave it alternating gold and silver rims.

Is it possible to see this creation?

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

therunningman posted:

Good to know! I just bought fresh CA glue and will keep it in the fridge when I'm not using it. Is there anything to the black version that has rubber mixed in or is that just marketing?

I've used it a couple times. It wasn't noticeably better than normal CA. I think it only comes in thicker viscosities, which isn't something I use unless I'm filling gaps.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



therunningman posted:

Is it possible to see this creation?

The IS-3 crapbuild was from 2015. I'm sure it made it into the thread....

Ensign Expendable posted:

I have actual Soviet instructions that tell you to grind up grass in mineral spirits if you run out of paint, so I think "real Russian green" is a subjective concept.

Hah! Found it. If you want to see IS-3 crapbuild stuff, July and August 2015 are when you wanna look.

Ensign Expendable posted:

Introducing Joseph "Get rich or kill those trying" $talin and his trusty wingman Lavrentiy Party-vich Beriya!



Featuring chrome-lined barrel (from the outside)



Senior party members only.



The tracks are the kind you need to heat-crimp together.

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Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003


25mm ready ammunition lockers for the Kongo. Only 200 more to go.

Edit: there are 179 ready lockers of two different types, each of which has six connection points to the fret leaving 1074 points to cut. Because of the way they're shaped and laid out on the fret, you can't use scissors to cut multiple off at one time.

Chuck_D fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Apr 16, 2023

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