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Hey thread. I haven't been doing much fine wood butchering, but I've got a big deck projects starting. It'll have a 12x24' covered section with a gable roof and a lot of 6x6 posts and stuff, so it'll be fun, but I've got a design quesiton -- I'm also adding about 120' of metal fencing. The panels I got were only 6' wide, and I didn't want 4x4 posts everywhere, so I'm using matching metal posts in between the 4x4 posts to give 12' between 4x4 posts. My question is this -- I want to make a decorative... something... on the top of the wood posts, but haven't found much in the way of inspiration photos or ideas. Here's something I knocked up real quick, and I like it, but it seems basic. But I don't want to put a whole lot of work into this, because there are a lot of things to do with the project. Thoughts? 
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Apr 30, 2023 15:25
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EVERYWHERE 
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:High definitely. Cheap fine sandpaper takes forever if it doesn't just outright disintegrate on you This is my experience. 3M Cubitron Xtract I've found wildly better than everything else I've tried, but the difference is much more pronounced at 220 than at 100 grit (in terms of sanding speed, the 100 grit is still a lot more durable). I only really stock 60/80 for rough sanding if I have to remove more material than I'd like, mostly I just do 100/120 and finish with 220. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The purple seems to do decently and is pretty readily available. 3m has like 30 kinds of purple sand paper/discs. There's regular stuff with grit on it that's purple (which is what I see locally at Home Depot usually), there's multiple types of regular Cubitron that are purple, and then Xtract Cubitron is also purple (which is the one I prefer). I haven't seen anything yellow though, and google isn't turning up any obvious results unless I'm being an idiot.
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Apr 30, 2023 15:27
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I've made mistakes by starting at 80 grit many times. I'll only use 80 or 100 when I can't flush something up with hand tools, but generally anything straight out of the planer will get 120 as a first grit. If I'm not getting through what I need to (low raking light and pencil marks are a huge help), then I'll step backwards to 100 grit. 80 is a last resort, and sometimes for shaping. e: whoops new page. Taytools is an excellent source for the Best Sanding Discs Ever https://taytools.com/collections/3m...il-film-backing Compatible with everything, crazy durable, cut forever.
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Apr 30, 2023 15:28
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quote =/= edit.
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Apr 30, 2023 |
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Apr 30, 2023 15:46
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ColdPie posted:Huh, people really go through all of 120, 150, and 180? For some reason I had it in my head that no one does that. I don't know where I picked that up from. If I’m doing a hand-tooled surface and want to leave some tool marks, I just go straight to 180 by hand, then wet to raise the grain, finish with 220 to knock down the fuzz. For most stuff I do 100 or 120grit with a belt sander to remove mill marks, 120 and 150 with an orbital sander, kill corners with 150, wet to raise grain, finish with 220 to remove fuzz. I used to skip 150 and wet after 120, but I think the 150 makes for a little more consistent surface that takes a bit less finish to get looking good. With this fancy new Mirka orbital sander and a nice sharp knives I think in future I may be able to skip the belt sanding and just to go straight to 100 or 120 with the orbital sander. I pretty much always use water based dyes and so I always wet to raise the grain for that, but even if I’m using a solvent dye or pigmented oil stain I still usually do. It really doesn’t take long and I think it does leave a nicer finish. Wallet posted:This[is my experience. 3M Cubitron Xtract I've found wildly better than everything else I've tried, but the difference is much more pronounced at 220 than at 100 grit (in terms of sanding speed, the 100 grit is still a lot more durable). This is the gold 3m frecut stuff. It’s the best I’ve found for dry sanding lacquer or shellac. It still clogs but not nearly as badly as most paper. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...6RoCD_EQAvD_BwE
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Apr 30, 2023 15:59
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you hate sanding, sharp hand tools cut down on sanding by about 90%. Yeah. On my flat work I mostly don't sand at all, mostly just for breaking edges. But I've been doing curved stuff lately (chairs) and my "edge tool on curved surfaces" skills just aren't there yet. So lots of sanding for shaping and cleaning up tool marks. Good to hear about other approaches to sanding grits. I'm looking forward to experimenting more.
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Apr 30, 2023 16:18
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Becksvoort goes to 400 or 600 on cherry. https://blog.lostartpress.com/2019/02/26/on-craftsmanship/
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Apr 30, 2023 17:03
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Anyone use crushed stone (real or synthetic, doesn't matter) like this stuff? I was wanting to use it (or similar stuff) for an inlaid border on a small table top or tablet. Most of it is sold for "ring kits" or in woodturner supply spots which implies small projects. Does anyone know how far 2oz actually goes?
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Apr 30, 2023 17:58
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 Wedged.
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Apr 30, 2023 18:38
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Illusive gently caress Man posted:
Thanks for the advice. I thought about buying a sander, but I thought I read something about it being better to sand with the grain. Also I wanted to burn some time and use my arms. I finished the bottom side and I think it came out great!  Though I did realize something at the end. Maybe I should have picked this side to be the top instead of the bottom?  Whatever. I'm sure the edges being the wrong way up won't bother me forever.
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Apr 30, 2023 21:36
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That's an intentional feature to ease the corner for your wrists. You meant it to be that way.
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Apr 30, 2023 23:34
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Stultus Maximus posted:Anyone use crushed stone (real or synthetic, doesn't matter) like this stuff? I can't answer your question regarding crushed stone, but I've used shell strips with great results for inlaid borders. They're consistent and it's easy to estimate as it's length based. https://www.advancedshelltech.com/straight-strips You can get them other places but this is where I have used, not sure how the cost compares to crushed stone.
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May 1, 2023 01:00
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For as good as my shop table may be, I made an absolute cock of a job of making a frame for the wife. I picked up this for her at a little comic-convention thing we had in town a couple weeks ago. It was painted on MDF, so I didn’t want to hang it as-is. So I cleaned up a random chunk of cherry I had kicking around. Fired a couple cut chunks through the router  About this moment, I realized I had hosed up and didn’t joint one set of cut boards on one side so they ended up slightly wider.  Mitred the corners  Around here is where I found a fix but also hosed up again. I ran the extra thickness back through the router to put it on the inside of the frame and it chattered and hosed it up a little bit. That little logo recess on the left side there was another fuckup when I set the height higher instead of lower and yeah. Some of the 1/4” dowel rod broke off early going through the corners. It was a rough couple of hours.  It worked out well enough I can secure the MDF to the frame and it can hang from the cherry frame.  Maybe next time I’ll attack a delicate project with less gung-ho of getting it done on the secret for her in a couple hours.
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May 1, 2023 21:27
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Sockington posted:For as good as my shop table may be, I made an absolute cock of a job of making a frame for the wife. I picked up this for her at a little comic-convention thing we had in town a couple weeks ago. It was painted on MDF, so I didn’t want to hang it as-is. This sounds like every single project I do.
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May 1, 2023 22:55
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Woodworking is just setting out with an idea and then loving up and fixing fuckups until you wind up with a thing
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May 2, 2023 00:50
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A good woodworker is one who has learned how to cover up his mistakes.
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May 2, 2023 00:53
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How it started // How it's going 
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May 2, 2023 01:30
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Sockington posted:It worked out well enough I can secure the MDF to the frame and it can hang from the cherry frame. Picture frames are tough! I've made a couple for the workshop and they're definitely shop-furniture-quality. Good way to use up some scrap and get some low stakes practice on fine details though.
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May 2, 2023 01:40
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I always end up making a few picture frames for holiday gifts, and the thing that really stepped up my game was making a jig with a cheap aluminum framing square and stop blocks where you cut one of the miters on each piece on one side of the jig, and the other on the other side. If your fence/square is perfectly 90, the individual miters don't have to be perfectly 45, because they'll mate at 90. I did something like this, but you shouldn't need to buy the plans, it's pretty simple: https://youtu.be/CJCSA2SZt5s
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May 2, 2023 02:01
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I'm always a bit cattywompus after a good shellacking too.
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May 2, 2023 02:02
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Thinking of spending a bunch of money on tools. Table saw, miter saw, maybe a planer. Before I do, how do I learn to operate safely? Can I just read and watch videos, should I look for a class or something? I don't have any mentors in this realm.
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May 3, 2023 20:48
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Read and obey the safety instructions in the manual. Watch videos on youtube, but be aware that tons of youtubers actually gently caress up safety all the drat time. Classes can help. Ask questions here, too. Have a healthy respect for your tools. Be aware that some safety issues, like kickback risks, can be counterintuitive. IMO it's better to get one new big tool at a time, and focus on learning and using it exclusively for a bit. Adding several big new tools at once can be a bit overwhelming. Also do you have a specific project in mind? I like to just get what I need for the next project, so I have a thing to try to do on the new tool, and my experience with some tools helps to inform me of what I might actually prefer in the next one. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:58 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 20:55
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also, this is the big one, don't put your fingers in the blade while it's running. would not believe how many people gently caress that one up
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May 3, 2023 21:09
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taking a class is probably a good idea, but I taught myself from watching a bunch of youtube videos and haven't lost any fingers yet definitely watch as many safety videos as you can if you get a table saw in particular. I started with a miter saw, which is relatively straightforward to use safely, went ahead and ordered a table saw, thought "I'll watch a quick safety video for this one too" and immediately realized it was a far more dangerous tool in ways I definitely would not have considered
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May 3, 2023 21:11
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:also, this is the big one, don't put your fingers in the blade while it's running. would not believe how many people gently caress that one up I never *have*, but I still bought a SawStop because I know that I somehow *will*
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May 3, 2023 21:11
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same the big catch to learning woodworking from previous generations of craftsmen is that plenty of em *will* just straight up shove their hands in a running miter saw and then act like you're an rear end in a top hat if you question it. Some guys I've met got partial fingers from doing exactly that, and they still do it! I was taught growing up that sometimes a table saw will just launch a board across the room and there's nothing you can do about it, what's a riving knife A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:23 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 21:20
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Don't worry about dust either. A good lungful of MDF sawdust a day keeps communism from winning. That hacking cough is just weakness leaving the body.
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May 3, 2023 22:12
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Epitope posted:Thinking of spending a bunch of money on tools. Table saw, miter saw, maybe a planer. Before I do, how do I learn to operate safely? Can I just read and watch videos, should I look for a class or something? I don't have any mentors in this realm. Seconding taking a class or two. A decent instructor will help you more in an afternoon than youtubing for a week.
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May 3, 2023 22:51
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One of my legs came out a bit wonky but look at the flame
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May 4, 2023 00:57
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I'll second buying tools in support of a specific project. That way you guarantee that the tool will be used at least once. There's nothing worse than splashing out big money on a toy you never use.
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May 4, 2023 01:17
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NomNomNom posted:One of my legs came out a bit wonky but look at the flame For a second my dumb rear end thought that loving wax can was a 🤣 emoji Jesus Christmas Wood looks good tho
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May 4, 2023 01:29
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Leperflesh posted:IMO it's better to get one new big tool at a time, and focus on learning and using it exclusively for a bit. Adding several big new tools at once can be a bit overwhelming. Also do you have a specific project in mind? I like to just get what I need for the next project, so I have a thing to try to do on the new tool, and my experience with some tools helps to inform me of what I might actually prefer in the next one. Hadn't seen yer edit, good point. Probably worth going one at a time. I keep almost buying one, and then na I don't need more crap. The current idea is garden/planter/work benches. I've got a pretty legit scrap pile that's just going to rot and cause problems. I don't need a fancy saw to get rid of it, but maybe it's more ~rewarding~ that way 
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May 4, 2023 01:42
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Epitope posted:Thinking of spending a bunch of money on tools. Table saw, miter saw, maybe a planer. Before I do, how do I learn to operate safely? Can I just read and watch videos, should I look for a class or something? I don't have any mentors in this realm. Before making any operation on a power tool, think about what could go wrong and where your hands or body is going to be in relation to the tool if/when it does go wrong. The problem with that is that it takes education and experience to learn what can go wrong. I'd consider the table saw the most dangerous of the tools you mentioned. With any power tool, I have some personal rules - no long sleeves, no jewelry, no neckties/hoodie strings/apron straps/long hair or anything else that can dangle down and can get caught in the tool. With the table saw, there is a lot that can go wrong that isn't intuitive at all because there are a lot of factors in play when making a cut that you have no way of knowing about without education or experience. There are plenty of videos on youtube about table saw safety and accidents, so that would definitely be worth checking out.
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May 4, 2023 02:04
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PokeJoe posted:For a second my dumb rear end thought that loving wax can was a 🤣 emoji Jesus Christmas Johnson wax RIP. Crazy they stopped making it.
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May 4, 2023 02:18
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Bob Mundon posted:Johnson wax RIP. Crazy they stopped making it. Whoa I didn't know that. I use Trewax on my machines because I think it's harder, but Johnson Wax had it's uses too. Briwax is my new fav. for furniture and it's got those good solvents that get you a little goofy.
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May 4, 2023 02:40
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Bob Mundon posted:Johnson wax RIP. Crazy they stopped making it. Wait WHAT? Why on earth would they stop making it?
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May 4, 2023 02:42
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Bob Mundon posted:Johnson wax RIP. Crazy they stopped making it. What the poo poo? It was cheap as hell and kept my saws slick and rust free. Now what?
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May 4, 2023 02:51
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Wait WHAT? Why on earth would they stop making it? Stultus Maximus posted:What the poo poo? It was cheap as hell and kept my saws slick and rust free. Now what?
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May 4, 2023 02:52
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Googling around trying to find out why it was discontinued leads to a bunch of forum posts from woodworkers saying 'I've had the same can of this stuff for 5/10/50 years, how dare they quit making it!!!!,' which, ya know, if everyone's only buying 1 can/decade might not translate to very many sales. Good point, I'm maybe a quarter of the way through the can I bought a decade ago. It might last another 30 years at this rate.
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May 4, 2023 03:08
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Stultus Maximus posted:What the poo poo? It was cheap as hell and kept my saws slick and rust free. Now what? Not cheap as hell, but Royal Purple Maxfilm is my go-to lubricant for pretty much everything. I don't know the technology, but it is a spray on solid film lubricant that leaves behind an extremely durable slippery film finish.
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May 4, 2023 03:14
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