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bobua posted:I'm cutting a hole for a doggy door, and I've come across these two... wires? they are tight and rubbery, don't feel like alarm or electrical wires. Any ideas? Looks like reddit solved this one. Pest control tubes.
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# ? May 1, 2023 19:18 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 23:31 |
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Cool NIN Shirt posted:Re using the holes for the gate should be fine so long as the new fastener is a little longer and bigger than the previous screws. If your nervous you can use a little construction adhesive or wood glue on the screws….. unless you plan on taking them out again. Those hinges look secure though So am I understanding you correctly that you don't think new screws or hinges would improve much and the backwards cross brace is probably more of an issue? I don't necessarily need to disassemble it for the sake of disassembling it if new screws or maybe an 8-10" long hinge won't do much. Would an anti sag kit be a better idea? Is that the turnbuckle Painterofcrap is suggesting?
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# ? May 1, 2023 21:36 |
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bobua posted:Looks like reddit solved this one. Pest control tubes.
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# ? May 1, 2023 22:51 |
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what's the best way to move fingerprints from cabinets with a lacquer finish? Mine don't have handles since you push them to open and close, and there's a noticeable area where I always have my finger that is more shiny than the rest of the door. I assume these are oils from my skin.
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# ? May 5, 2023 17:15 |
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Soapy sponge, soft side?
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# ? May 5, 2023 17:26 |
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H110Hawk posted:Soapy sponge, soft side? yeah i tried that, also microfiber cloth with a bit of white vinegar. maybe i need to make the sponge soapier (edit: tried this, didn't help) of course other ones are like that too, but the sun never hits them at the angle where I see it so I don't care about those. this is just more of a visual annoyance actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:40 on May 5, 2023 |
# ? May 5, 2023 17:37 |
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Seems like if hot soapy water won't take it off then it is more likely something from your skin that marred the finish, not just oil or whatever left behind on the surface.
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# ? May 5, 2023 17:43 |
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Yeah that looks like the finish getting worn than oil. Dawn dish soap and water is going to strip off any oil. Does it have a texture? Run your fingernail over it and past the edge.
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# ? May 5, 2023 17:47 |
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actionjackson posted:yeah i tried that, also microfiber cloth with a bit of white vinegar. maybe i need to make the sponge soapier (edit: tried this, didn't help) Congratulations! You've discovered why cabinets usually have hardware! What's the sheen of the finish-high gloss or satin or what? Do you have any idea what product the cabinets are painted with? A more aggressive cleaner like 409 might help but I doubt it. Gloss/matte is controlled by surface roughness at a very fine level in the very top of the finish- I suspect you touching that spot has smoothed that roughness out and created a shiny spot, so no amount of cleaning will help. You need to make that spot a little bit rough again. You could try something slightly abrasive to knock the sheen down a bit. 0000 steel wool might not be a bad start, but you may have to do the whole door to get it to look even. I think I've seen little metal plates you could stick on to keep this from happening again. Not quite as visually clean as no hardware, but it is still flat and would prevent this situation
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# ? May 5, 2023 17:51 |
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withak posted:Seems like if hot soapy water won't take it off then it is more likely something from your skin that marred the finish, not just oil or whatever left behind on the surface. well my oils i meant oils from my skin specifically, not some other kind of oils. given this is only where my finger presses it to open skin residue of some sort seems logical. no texture that I can feel at all, they are matte finish, so I'm guessing that either the finish is coming off a bit, or there's something on there that reflects light a lot more. However the finish looks fine from every other angle, even up close. you only see it it looking from a very specific angle, at a specific time where the sun hits that area from my window. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Congratulations! You've discovered why cabinets usually have hardware! yeah i just like the clean look, and am fine living with this vs. having hardware. it's a matte finish, they used SW Sher-Wood catalyzed lacquer with one of those titan paint sprayers https://industrial.sherwin-williams...at.9197999.html I'll ask the people who did the work, otherwise i'll just go back to ignoring it at those specific angles and times of day. I love these loving cabinets actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:57 on May 5, 2023 |
# ? May 5, 2023 17:53 |
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A good scrub with hot soapy water will remove any kind of residue that could have come from your skin. If the mark survives that treatment then it isn't stuck-on skin residue.
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# ? May 5, 2023 17:55 |
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A matte finish is actually textured, it's just textured at a microscopic level. If that texture has been smoothed, the only fix is to apply a new matte finish. If it's just been "filled in" with human grease, soap should get rid of it. You can also try a "magic sponge" since those are good at carving away that stuff while not scratching the surface, but I doubt it'll be different from what you've already tried.
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# ? May 5, 2023 17:56 |
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actionjackson posted:well my oils i meant oils from my skin specifically, not some other kind of oils. given this is only where my finger presses it to open skin residue of some sort seems logical.
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# ? May 5, 2023 17:57 |
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I do have some barkeepers friend, i'll try that on the other side a bit. I don't actually know for sure which sheen they used, they said matte, but the options for the lacquer are bright rubbed, medium rubbed, and dull rubbed. it might be medium, i have no idea. what about the rougher side of a kitchen sponge?
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# ? May 5, 2023 18:00 |
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also that may not actually be lacquer, because "lacquer" is sometimes used as a generic marketing term for "more nicer finish" when real lacquer is a specific type of cellulose finish. Kitchen sponge with green on the back is scotchbrite (or something pretending to be that) and that is way too abrasive. Blue scrubby back is gentler and you could try that in an inconspicuous place. But I am skeptical that you'll be able to replicate the finish with hand work. I don't like to say this but I'm afraid the real problem is that kitchen cabinets should have hardware, or else a finish that is very hard and durable and can stand up to being scrubbed with abrasives.
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# ? May 5, 2023 18:03 |
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actionjackson posted:I do have some barkeepers friend, i'll try that on the other side a bit. I don't actually know for sure which sheen they used, they said matte, but the options for the lacquer are bright rubbed, medium rubbed, and dull rubbed. it might be medium, i have no idea. Rough side of a kitchen sponge may work, but I think it'll have the same potential downsides as steel wool-it'll make lots of tiny scratches which will knock down the sheen, but you'll see those scratches and they'll look different from the rest of the finish. The matte-ness in the finish is created by lots of tiny silica crystals under the top coat of finish scattering the light and it's hard to replicate that exact look with an abrasive. A powder like barkeeper's friend (I would use a powdered pumice for this professionally, but that's more or less what barkeeper's friend is, though it may have bleach or something added) will let you fade those scratches in better than a pad or steel wool. The green scotchbrite on most kitchen sponges may be a bit too coarse. I can't remember exactly but it's a good bit coarser than 0000 steel wool-again, try in an inconspicuous area first.
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# ? May 5, 2023 18:07 |
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Leperflesh posted:also that may not actually be lacquer, because "lacquer" is sometimes used as a generic marketing term for "more nicer finish" when real lacquer is a specific type of cellulose finish. I was told by someone i know who is a SW store manager that that lacquer I linked to is pretty much their top of the line product, so perhaps it can handle something more abrasive. I sent a few pics to the company who did the work and will let you know what they say. here's the PDS if that gives any more useful info on it https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=SWPCGWOOD&doctype=PDS&prodno=035777339725&lang=2
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# ? May 5, 2023 18:10 |
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actionjackson posted:I was told by someone i know who is a SW store manager that that lacquer I linked to is pretty much their top of the line product, so perhaps it can handle something more abrasive. I sent a few pics to the company who did the work and will let you know what they say. Another thought that occurs is that you could try waxing the door with a paste wax like trewax. It would raise the sheen slightly, but I think also might blend that spot in. It's also completely reversible with naphtha (in fact you might try a little bit of naphtha as a cleaner for that spot-it is an excellent degreaser) or mineral spirits if you don't the look or it doesn't fix the problem.
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# ? May 5, 2023 18:19 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Pre-cat lacquers like that are great and that's a good finish and what you're seeing is not a defect in either the finish or the application, but just a mismatch between a finish and your intended use. Nothin but some crazy expoxy or maybe polyester finishes could be used that way and not show the problem you are having. Finishes for kitchen cabinets just aren't designed to be touched in the same spot every day and not show wear-this is again why hardware gets used in high-wear areas. thanks! I looked again and there is a VERY slight texture difference, like from super smooth to really loving smooth but not super smooth
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# ? May 5, 2023 18:29 |
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yeah that is legit lacquer, which is cool and good, but probably no matte finish will resist becoming glossy if it's touched twice a day in the same spot for years.
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# ? May 5, 2023 18:31 |
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Basically open it from the bottom hooking your fingers under and close it probably with your palm or a single finger at the absolute corner or under it again. You could install soft close hinges if you don't already have them, I assume those are a thing, or better/more rubber and/or felt bump stops to prevent slams.
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# ? May 5, 2023 18:46 |
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What's the best way to clean a spray foam can apparatus to reuse it? The straw is easy enough to replace, but the apparatus isn't. Cans are pretty cheap but it just seems wasteful to only use a little.
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# ? May 5, 2023 19:34 |
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esquilax posted:What's the best way to clean a spray foam can apparatus to reuse it? You pretty much can’t easily. Acetone works to clean up spray foam, so maybe try soaking one in that?
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# ? May 5, 2023 19:46 |
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H110Hawk posted:Basically open it from the bottom hooking your fingers under and close it probably with your palm or a single finger at the absolute corner or under it again. You could install soft close hinges if you don't already have them, I assume those are a thing, or better/more rubber and/or felt bump stops to prevent slams. oh yeah i got all that fancy stuff too, it's the blum blumotion and those rubber things are also present. so it can't ever slam incidentally. then there are the triggers on the inside of course. edit: they suggested Murphy's cleaning spray actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:10 on May 5, 2023 |
# ? May 5, 2023 19:59 |
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I don’t think there’s any way to blend that spot back in with the rest of the cabinet and any attempt to do so will just worsen the issue. Maybe try a strong soap to wash the oils out but anything abrasive-based is just gonna leave visible scratches E: maybe a furniture wax or paste will make the sheen uniform
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# ? May 7, 2023 13:11 |
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This is about flashing the bottom of fiber cement lap siding. I have some flashing under the lap siding that terminates flat. I had one person say that this flashing should be caulked on the underside (between the flashing and brick) to prevent water from getting back there, and a different person tell me that it shouldn't be caulked so that any trapped water can escape. Everyone agrees that there should be no caulk between the siding and flashing so that water can escape downwards. The decorative concrete brick that the flashing is "hovering over" is angled away from the house to move water, so I'm guessing the second person (no caulk) is right for the time being. Is one of them correct? Is there a right answer here that isn't "rip it all out and install trim"? From a few feet away: Closeup:
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# ? May 7, 2023 15:27 |
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esquilax posted:This is about flashing the bottom of fiber cement lap siding.
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# ? May 7, 2023 16:03 |
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How would you find the inlet of a yard drain that you’ve only found the outlet to? I checked during a rain storm and there is no visible outflow.
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# ? May 7, 2023 17:40 |
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kreeningsons posted:How would you find the inlet of a yard drain that you’ve only found the outlet to? I checked during a rain storm and there is no visible outflow. Could be a French drain. All of the inlets are buried.
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# ? May 7, 2023 17:43 |
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kid sinister posted:Could be a French drain. All of the inlets are buried. Maybe. Then is there any way to identify whether I have a French drain or a yard drain that’s just been blocked or grown over? Everything in this house has been constructed as cheaply as possible and then neglected the last few years, if that makes any difference. Whatever it is, I can be pretty sure it’s cheap poo poo.
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# ? May 7, 2023 17:50 |
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kreeningsons posted:Maybe. Then is there any way to identify whether I have a French drain or a yard drain that’s just been blocked or grown over? Inspection camera. The ones used by plumbers. Not only are they cameras but the right ones will have a detector you can operate above ground to find the location of the head of the camera below ground.
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# ? May 7, 2023 17:55 |
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You could seal the outlet after stuffing the end of a garden hose up it. Run the hose & see what happens.
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# ? May 7, 2023 19:59 |
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What’s the correct way to finish the edge of a an EPDM flat roof deck? My mom’s patio door opens to a deck above a basement room, serving as its roof. The deck is flat or very low slope, covered by EPDM membrane directly on the sheeting. On top of that is outdoor carpeting. It’s held up fairly well for a number of years, but the rim joists are rotting at the corners. There is no flashing or edge trimming whatsoever. What’s the correct way to finish this so the fascia and rim joists are protected? Edit: follow up question: this deck has the old notched 4x4 carriage bolted to the rim joists for its railing. What’s the current thinking on adding a railing that’s strong and safe? My mom is tiny, but a toddler could push that railing off currently, which is why it’s gone in the picture. mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 03:28 on May 8, 2023 |
# ? May 7, 2023 22:19 |
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Sounds like this is not a fix that will get done fast. Thx for the suggestions all
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# ? May 7, 2023 23:20 |
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mr.belowaverage posted:What’s the correct way to finish the edge of a an EPDM flat roof deck? The slit in the membrane at the corner looks like it’s dribbling water directly on the rotting joists. Extending the membrane to go over the joists all the way to the concrete so the water never touches the wood would hopefully prevent further rotting. Really the joists need to get replaced but I’m sure you’re aware. As for the railing, mount the posts to the concrete itself and it should be strong enough .
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# ? May 8, 2023 11:51 |
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Speaking of French drains, my place is on a slight slope downhill from a substantial grass lot and as such we get a ton of runoff coursing through my property. We’ve got plenty of drainage so it isn’t an issue, but the exit pipes of three of my French drains were standard PVC and they have gotten brittle and broken off. What would be the most durable replacements when I finally get around to digging them up and fixing them?
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# ? May 8, 2023 16:43 |
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tactlessbastard posted:Speaking of French drains, my place is on a slight slope downhill from a substantial grass lot and as such we get a ton of runoff coursing through my property. We’ve got plenty of drainage so it isn’t an issue, but the exit pipes of three of my French drains were standard PVC and they have gotten brittle and broken off. If you have sufficient slope throw a pop up emitter on them and sink it to ground level. No more tripping on them or mowing around them. https://www.homedepot.com/p/NDS-Pop-Up-Drainage-Emitter-with-Elbow-for-4-in-Drain-Pipes-Green-Plastic-422G/100153624 E: Note to anyone else looking at these - if your drainage is corrugated pipe is is NOT the same size as PVC. In the same area of the box store with these pop up emitters you should also be able to find a "hub adapter" that will go from corrugated to 4" PVC to put on the end of these things.
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# ? May 8, 2023 16:58 |
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Motronic posted:If you have sufficient slope throw a pop up emitter on them and sink it to ground level. No more tripping on them or mowing around them. Didn't even know that was a thing and now I must have them! Thanks!
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# ? May 8, 2023 17:16 |
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Is there a thread or go-to resource for sealing/flooring over asbestos tiles?
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# ? May 8, 2023 18:49 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 23:31 |
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My storm door latch has 2 screws that go through the plastic/metal latch and into the sheet metal door. One of the screw holes is stripped out. What's the best way to fix it? I don't really want to go to a bigger screw and drill the latch hole larger since it's thick plastic and may explode when trying. Is a rivet nut the best way to fix this?
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# ? May 8, 2023 19:10 |