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Glass (nail) files I have some crap guns to build, got this six pack because why not. Not instructions but I don’t think that will be an issue since they are packaged separately… I’m tempted to just dump all the parts in a pile and build.
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May 10, 2023 21:58
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Where is the term "glass file" from? I've never heard that one before.
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May 10, 2023 22:12
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Won't lie, my gunprimer rasers have become my go-to.
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May 10, 2023 22:31
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Yeah, sorry, just threw out a random example and connected the GW logo being a way to sell a $3 thing for $15. One of the modeling groups I'm in was talking about using glass files to quickly zip down little sprue marks after you've clipped a piece off them. On Amazon, glass files "for Gundam Military Model Hobby Polishing" are $12 for 2, while "Glass Nail Files for Natural Nails" are $19 for 5, or $30 for 10
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May 10, 2023 22:34
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If the latter are like the ones pictured earlier, then they're likely not the same as the hobby ones which have a different kind of grit, more like lots of tiny holes rather than a raised rough surface.
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May 10, 2023 22:37
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ijyt posted:Won't lie, my gunprimer rasers have become my go-to. same, they are really fast and easier for sanding surfaces that should be flat instead of rounded.
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May 10, 2023 22:39
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I’m doing my first scale model (I usually paint Warhammer/D&D minis). I’m making a model of my dad’s old ‘67 Mustang for a Father’s Day present. Is there an ideal varnish to use over metal flake paint to keep the effect of looking like a real car? I’m fine with airbrush or rattle can.
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May 10, 2023 23:51
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Glass files are great and I can recommend them. If you're only using them on plastic they should never wear out and can be cleaned perfectly again and again. They have a lot of cutting force and are very soft on your hands/joints. The Siren MSF-13 from Dispae should go for around eight bucks (Amazon shows it to me very overpriced lol) so it's a decent choice if you want to try such a tool. Just be prepared to clean it with a toothbrush every few pieces since the plastic shavings will stick to the cutting profile. That's the trade-off for the price compared to a product like the Gunprimer Raser. Oh and when working with such a high grit you want to be careful because it will lead to a shiny/reflective surface if you go all the way. Personally I use the file to work away the material I want to remove and then buff with 2k and 2.5k grit sanding paper for an almost perfect match on the factory surface look of the kits I've done so far Tin Tim fucked around with this message at 00:33 on May 11, 2023 |
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May 11, 2023 00:21
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Megaspam posted:I’m doing my first scale model (I usually paint Warhammer/D&D minis). I’m making a model of my dad’s old ‘67 Mustang for a Father’s Day present. The easiest ones to find are probably Tamiya or Testors lacquer spray cans. I've sprayed them over metallic paints many times and they look great. I would really recommend looking up some videos on YouTube to get the technique down before you do it though because there is a technique to clearcoating especially if you want it look as realistic as possible.
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May 11, 2023 05:32
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What can I use to glue plastic film to a clear plastic part and keep it crisp looking? I want to "coat" my tank periscopes with nail film but I'm having problems with adhering the film to it. I have tried: -Clearcoat -Mod Podge -VMS Transpafix Either the glue doesn't dry or does not adhere properly.  Anyone have experience with this?
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May 11, 2023 15:34
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therunningman posted:What can I use to glue plastic film to a clear plastic part and keep it crisp looking? Elmer's glue?
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May 11, 2023 16:10
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I use white glue to attach periscopes and headlights. It does take a while to dry but the white disappears completely after a day or so.
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May 11, 2023 16:15
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Ensign Expendable posted:I use white glue to attach periscopes and headlights. It does take a while to dry but the white disappears completely after a day or so. Is there a practical difference between Mod Podge and White/Elmers Glue? I always thought it was the same thing.
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May 11, 2023 16:31
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therunningman posted:Is there a practical difference between Mod Podge and White/Elmers Glue? I always thought it was the same thing. It seems that Mod Podge has a sealing effect...that may be why it never cured.
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May 11, 2023 16:32
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therunningman posted:What can I use to glue plastic film to a clear plastic part and keep it crisp looking? Am I understanding you correctly in that you're trying to glue a piece of film to a clear plastic part? I think my question would be what the end game is. What effect are you trying to achieve? I've never heard of anyone trying to achieve realism on periscopes using the method you're describing. Maybe I'm missing something, but if you tell us the end goal we might be able to offer better ideas to get there.
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May 11, 2023 17:15
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Gewehr 43 posted:Am I understanding you correctly in that you're trying to glue a piece of film to a clear plastic part? I think my question would be what the end game is. What effect are you trying to achieve? I've never heard of anyone trying to achieve realism on periscopes using the method you're describing. Maybe I'm missing something, but if you tell us the end goal we might be able to offer better ideas to get there. Yes that's exactly it. I found inexpensive transparent nail film which has a really cool red-purple effect that changes with he angle of view. I wanted to try applying it to the periscopes to get the look of the laser coating rather than trying to paint it.
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May 11, 2023 17:35
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I've always heard Vallejo acrylic paints were not great for airbrushing is that really true? Tamiya acrylics and lacquers are a dream to airbrush but unfortunately I moved to an area that doesn't have any real hobby shops nearby and only has a hobby lobby and they only carry Vallejo. Ive heard that you need to use Vallejo thinner and airbrush thinner to get them to airbrush ok but they still gum up the nozzle?
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May 13, 2023 23:13
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Charliegrs posted:I've always heard Vallejo acrylic paints were not great for airbrushing is that really true? Tamiya acrylics and lacquers are a dream to airbrush but unfortunately I moved to an area that doesn't have any real hobby shops nearby and only has a hobby lobby and they only carry Vallejo. Ive heard that you need to use Vallejo thinner and airbrush thinner to get them to airbrush ok but they still gum up the nozzle? Vallejo has multiple lines meant specifically for airbrushing and I blow 'em through my airbrush just fine with no additives 
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May 13, 2023 23:27
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I find a few drops of flow improvers help the, er, flow, but yeah they airbrush fine out of the bottle.
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May 13, 2023 23:59
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No problems here!
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May 14, 2023 00:26
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"Game Color", "Model Color", "Premium Color", and "Metal Color" are Vallejo lines that do need thinners and flow improvers and anecdotally occasionally don't like the ones that aren't also Vallejo. "Game Air" (for tabletop miniatures), "Model Air" (for tanks, ships, aircraft, etc.), and "Mecha Color" (for robots) do not, and are explicitly marketted as not requiring thinning. There may be colors missing from some of these ranges you need to pick up from the other ones if you want them - like Mecha Color is really weak on purples, and doesn't even have good blues and reds to mix your own imperial/tyrian purples, but game color has a solid one. Basically, if it doesn't have "air" in the title it needs thinning. Except for Mecha Color. It's still worth having some thinners and flow improvers around because your local humidity and air pressure preferences can play around with what works well. (See e.g. https://fasteasylearn.com/2022/11/14/basic-guide-to-miniature-airbrushes/#Thinning-%22Sauce%22 for how different youtubers work. For example, Don Surantos is in the Philippines and uses a LOT of both flow improver and thinner to deal with the local heat and humidity. I tried his mix and it was WAY too thin for me.) Vallejo actually do recommend about 2 drops thinner and 1 drop flow improver to every 5-6 drops of paint with their "air" products, along with 15-20 psi for the pressure. They put comments to this effect in the color charts on https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/hobby-color-charts/ but not every product has an equivalent recommendation.
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May 14, 2023 00:28
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Generic acrylic thinner and flow improver are also fine with Vallejo products.
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May 14, 2023 00:31
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therunningman posted:Yes that's exactly it. I found inexpensive transparent nail film which has a really cool red-purple effect that changes with he angle of view. I wanted to try applying it to the periscopes to get the look of the laser coating rather than trying to paint it. Plasmo used that method to do the HUD glass on the A-10 he built a few months ago https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nd8rPN_9v-k starting at about 19:30
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May 14, 2023 00:31
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Nullkigan posted:"Game Color", "Model Color", "Premium Color", and "Metal Color" are Vallejo lines that do need thinners and flow improvers and anecdotally occasionally don't like the ones that aren't also Vallejo. Just worth pointing out that "Metal Color" is an airbrush ready range, it's extremely thin already, and they actually say 'airbrush colors' on the bottle (this has been my go-to metallic airbrush paint for a few years). I believe that Vallejo's model color, game color etc ranges have metallics that need thinning, though.
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May 14, 2023 02:01
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regular Vallejo model color and game color have thinned pretty easily in the airbrush for me, though I think the air specific paints are still nicer. The mecha paints have been great for me
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May 14, 2023 02:36
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Phy posted:Plasmo used that method to do the HUD glass on the A-10 he built a few months ago That looks very similar! I wonder what glue he used. edit: i must be deaf, clear varnish. I tried again and I think I'm just not giving it enough time to cure. I like the way it looks. 
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May 14, 2023 02:42
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Other than shipping being $40 is there anything to be wary about with Hobby Link Japan? Because their prices on many of the kits I want are basically 1/2 of what they cost in the US. After a few kits that $40 is no big deal.
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May 14, 2023 13:07
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stealie72 posted:Other than shipping being $40 is there anything to be wary about with Hobby Link Japan? Because their prices on many of the kits I want are basically 1/2 of what they cost in the US. After a few kits that $40 is no big deal. How do the prices compare to Plaza Japan? Because I've used that one with no issue e: Plaza and Hobby Link are both in the set of online shops Scalemates uses for stock/price reference on all the kits in the database, they can't be that dodgy NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 13:41 on May 14, 2023 |
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May 14, 2023 13:38
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NTRabbit posted:How do the prices compare to Plaza Japan? Because I've used that one with no issue
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May 14, 2023 14:07
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I think we all ordered our crapcars from Hobby Link Japan and it went fine. I remember my package just showed up at my door one day (not in the mailbox, mind you) with little indication of how it got there, but getting there is the part I care about.
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May 14, 2023 14:13
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While on the subject of airbrushing: what primers seems to be preferred for spraying through an airbrush
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May 14, 2023 14:51
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HLJ are one of the more reputable sites out there. They've been great for over a decade.
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May 14, 2023 15:11
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Dr. VooDoo posted:While on the subject of airbrushing: what primers seems to be preferred for spraying through an airbrush If you are okay with airbrushing lacquers, Mr. Surfacer 1000, 1200, or 1500 is amazing. It coats very well and has a great finish that topcoats adhere to very well. I've also used the Alclad lacquer primers quite a bit and they are good, but I much prefer the finish of Mr. Surfacer. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 15:16 on May 14, 2023 |
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May 14, 2023 15:12
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I've made multiple purchases from HLJ, the trick is to buy enough all at once that the discount overcomes the shipping costs.
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May 14, 2023 15:43
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Is their private warehouse thing for real? Has anyone used it?
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May 14, 2023 16:20
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Yup, it's legit.
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May 14, 2023 16:31
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And they're not actually forcing shipments right now. So long as they have the space, you already paid for the models so they can afford to hang on to them until they get crunched for space. Oh, and who wants to feel bad about their photoetch skills? This gentleman is working a 1/200 scale HMS Nelson, and he's working on the 60 20mm Oerlikons she carried. Lots and lots of tiny bits! He also has a cutting matt that I am insanely jealous of; it has lots of cutouts to hold small parts and it looks insanely clever. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLs8VSanM6s&t=675s
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May 14, 2023 18:42
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Arquinsiel posted:HLJ are one of the more reputable sites out there. They've been great for over a decade. Yep. They've got a great rep. Just don't expect overnight delivery or anything.
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May 14, 2023 18:47
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mllaneza posted:And they're not actually forcing shipments right now. So long as they have the space, you already paid for the models so they can afford to hang on to them until they get crunched for space. It's a soldering mat! https://www.amazon.co.uk/450x300mm-Insulation-Soldering-Smartphone-Repairing/dp/B07P787RKN
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May 14, 2023 18:52
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Gewehr 43 posted:Yep. They've got a great rep. Just don't expect overnight delivery or anything. I mean, if you pay for the DHL shipping level, they'll get it to your door in about three days. Just, y'know, 
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May 14, 2023 19:46
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