|
Oh are you one of those weenies who thinks you have to sit beside the printer and watch it the entire time it's running Just put it on a concrete slab and keep any flammable materials at least a couple of feet away. Plus your house should have smoke detectors in the infinitesimal case that is something happens. It's fine
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 16:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 04:47 |
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:Unless you are running a shop I don't think print speed really matters. I can print faster than I can paint with my Saturn 2. Especially if you run something before going to bed. At that point who cares if it is 2 hours or 8 hours. Absolutely true, that said there are like 5 of us in here lol. If I can run 5 printers instead of 15 that would have some pretty huge implications for me scaling up
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 16:04
|
|
|
I was referring to my MSLA printer, not a laser machine. I don't believe there is much risk of fire in MSLA printers.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 16:04
|
|
|
I often get something started for maybe 1 hour before bed.. watch and make sure it sticks etc.. then let it ride and either wake up to a sweet rear end print. or spaghettis for breakfast.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 16:15
|
|
|
BadMedic posted:Looking at some 3d pen specs, they seem to run at the right temps for TPU, but IDK if I trust the cheap extruder mechanisms in a pen to handle flexible filament. ...by technicality they are direct drive I guess, and it's not like you have to worry about speed changes and retractions so maybe it's fine? I've had my pen open and it's very much not direct drive, so ymmv
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 16:43
|
|
|
Bowden tube?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 16:46
|
|
|
I've now learned how to make multicolor 3D printable things out of the thousands of clip art pieces I already have on hand for making decals and/or laser engraving. It's my own personal little Nerdvana. This one's about 120mm wide by 55mm tall. Not terribly practical prints, but an awful lot of fun to make. It's also helping me to learn some Fusion 360... doing these really only takes a few steps, but it's more steps than I knew how to do a couple of days ago.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 18:53
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:I've now learned how to make multicolor 3D printable things out of the thousands of clip art pieces I already have on hand for making decals and/or laser engraving. It's my own personal little Nerdvana. This one's about 120mm wide by 55mm tall. Not terribly practical prints, but an awful lot of fun to make. It's also helping me to learn some Fusion 360... doing these really only takes a few steps, but it's more steps than I knew how to do a couple of days ago. Is the second colour inlaid in the first? What's your method? I've been messing around with single extruder multicolour prints for a while now and still have a ways to go before I'm really happy with them.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 20:24
|
|
|
Pvt. Parts posted:Is the second colour inlaid in the first? What's your method? I've been messing around with single extruder multicolour prints for a while now and still have a ways to go before I'm really happy with them. This was done on a Bambu P1P with the 4-color AMS unit, so it's basically using cheat codes to crank stuff like that out versus trying to do manual filament changes. I would never have been able to do this "by hand", so to speak. It was printed face down on the textured build plate, which virtually eliminates visible lines on that first layer. The yellow is 1mm thick, five 0.2mm layers, so the black behind it doesn't bleed through. That also significantly reduces the number of filament changes that the machine needs to do, I think it was only five or six total versus... a lot more if the color layer were thicker. The whole piece is 4mm thick.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 21:27
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:This was done on a Bambu P1P with the 4-color AMS unit, so it's basically using cheat codes to crank stuff like that out versus trying to do manual filament changes. I would never have been able to do this "by hand", so to speak. It was printed face down on the textured build plate, which virtually eliminates visible lines on that first layer. The yellow is 1mm thick, five 0.2mm layers, so the black behind it doesn't bleed through. That also significantly reduces the number of filament changes that the machine needs to do, I think it was only five or six total versus... a lot more if the color layer were thicker. The whole piece is 4mm thick. How do you prep the file for something like this?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 21:31
|
|
|
armorer posted:How do you prep the file for something like this? You can import an SVG file into Fusion 360 as a sketch, and from there it's basically as easy as extruding things to the desired thickness. That Mando one is actually three separate components that were ultimately saved out as a single STEP file, which the Bambu and Orca slicers (and also PrusaSlicer, which they are both based on) can use natively. After importing and sizing that SVG file, I selected the whole thing and extruded it down -3mm to create a solid base, and then the lettering and the remainder of the top side were extruded upward (separately, to make their own unique components) 1mm to create areas that could be colored independently. Naming the components something other than the default "Component1, Coomponent2", etc. is helpful for when you get it over to the slicer to assign colors. This is what it looks like in the slicer. I've since changed out the yellow spool, so this is what I have loaded up right now, but you can see on the left how I've named the different parts to make coloring them as easy as a few clicks. After that's done and my print parameters are set up to my liking, I just rotate it face-down and send it to the machine. It's friggin' easy mode once you do a few of them and get used to the process. 
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 21:55
|
|
|
It's kinda wild how well TPU prints once you have it dialed in, coming from where it started as a spiteful filament. Still having issues with Prusaslicer where it'll just travel around to extrude a drop in the middle of a column. So getting weird stringing from that but it's not the TPUs fault.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2023 21:58
|
|
|
Seeing some artifaxting in my P1p printing at 0.08mm layer height. Any idea what's happening here? (Was going to move to orca slicer this morning, but it needs vs 2019 installed and I need to run off and work on my yard) w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 15:40 on May 20, 2023 |
|
#
?
May 20, 2023 15:16
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Seeing some artifaxting in my P1p printing at 0.08mm layer height. Any idea what's happening here? So with a 0.4 nozzle 0.08 height is out of that range and there's not much you can do about it, other than swapping to a smaller nozzle. Edit: actually the range might be even tighter than that, 30%-70% BadMedic fucked around with this message at 15:49 on May 20, 2023 |
|
#
?
May 20, 2023 15:46
|
|
|
BadMedic posted:IIRC the 'sweet spot' for layer height is between 25%-75% of the nozzle width, and going past that tends to result in artifacts and issues. Crap right. I'll bump it up to 0.12 then I should be in the clear. Was using the p1p to bump to the scale on a new wargame, may have been overealous
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2023 15:53
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Seeing some artifaxting in my P1p printing at 0.08mm layer height. Any idea what's happening here? As you get to lower layer heights, things like tooth shape and geartrain accuracy matter more and more. I run all bowden, so I get some of the filamanets spring to even things out, and I've had sucessful prints down to 0.05. while that seems... excessive.. I don't know enough about the Bambu extruders to say much more.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2023 16:11
|
|
|
Hmm a friend is routinely printing at 0.08mm with PLA on his X1C and getting great results. What material are you using?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2023 17:42
|
|
|
Are the various "TPU-like" resins good or is it better to stick with an FDM printer for flexible stuff?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2023 17:50
|
|
|
They're different. Flexible SLA resins tend to be more soft and squishy, while flexible FDM filaments are more springy and elastic. Also the FDM materials are biologically inert but the SLA ones aren't, if that is a consideration for your use case.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2023 17:53
|
|
|
I'm at a loss for what the gently caress i did to break this thing. I didn't use my ender 3 V2 all winter because it's cold where I print. It's warm so I dug it back out and I've had nothing but problems. I replaced the hot end because I managed to clog it and it was just easier to get a new one than chip away all the filament, plus id broken the cover last year. Now I can't get the bed to level. I'm currently trying to print at z-offset of + .85 which gets the corners but is too high for the middle. The back left corner by the power cord is as condensed as I can get it and it's still too high for anything lower. The other corners all are getting better as I run this calibration print over and over but I don't know wtf to do about the middle And as an unrelated thing why does Octoprint trigger an M112 error almost every time it connects?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2023 23:19
|
|
|
Looks like June 1st is going to be the reveal and pre-order for the Neptune 4/Neptune 4 Pro, and Saturn 3 and Saturn 3 Pro. Don't know the difference between the models. Neptune is going to have klipper as the firmware though, and the Saturn 3 line will be 12k. I imagine that at least the Saturn 3 Pro is going to have remote file/printing built in to it. No data if they will have a self leveling version like the upcoming anycubic 12k printer. Anycubic early pre-order prices is 399 for a 12k printer with automatic leveling and remote printing. Saturn 3/S3 Pro are going to be 399/499 so it will be interesting to see how the Saturn compares to the Anycubic. Anycubic pre-orders go up on the 25th I believe.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 00:05
|
|
|
where's my GOD DAMNED 5 EXTRUDER XL, JOSEF
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 00:17
|
|
|
Sovol announcing the SV07 only to have Elegoo dangle something better and cheaper that’s more likely to be good is very on-brand. The addition of curtain fans for higher speed printing makes sense, and I’m probably going to get a 4 Pro because I hate money.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 00:20
|
|
|
If you need elastomeric photopolymer resin printing, I think Inkbit has everyone beat. 1,000 hours exposure to UV light and they maintained 90+% of their mechanical properties https://inkbit3d.com/ Probably the coolest company I saw at RAPID in Chicago.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 00:33
|
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:Looks like June 1st is going to be the reveal and pre-order for the Neptune 4/Neptune 4 Pro, and Saturn 3 and Saturn 3 Pro. Don't know the difference between the models. Neptune is going to have klipper as the firmware though, and the Saturn 3 line will be 12k. I imagine that at least the Saturn 3 Pro is going to have remote file/printing built in to it. No data if they will have a self leveling version like the upcoming anycubic 12k printer. Anycubic early pre-order prices is 399 for a 12k printer with automatic leveling and remote printing. Saturn 3/S3 Pro are going to be 399/499 so it will be interesting to see how the Saturn compares to the Anycubic. Anycubic pre-orders go up on the 25th I believe. And my neptune 3 had some scuffed firmware on release, so I'm not expecting anything different from them? (latest firmware is fine tho) Also that got me looking through their catalogue and... what's up with the Neptune X? It seems like it's a Core XY, but done sorta badly?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 01:17
|
|
|
It’s nice to see the prices for the bigger brand resin printers shifting downwards, but I really wish they were focusing on features other then the screen resolution as the big selling point. (Not to mention the fact that the actual level of detail is dependent on the screen size, so it’s not even necessarily an improvement in that respect). I hope more companies start adding features like bed leveling and heating/temperature control as I think those are much more significant improvements over just making the screen resolution number bigger. The Saturn 3’s form factor seems to be about the same so we’ll see if they manage to fit anything new in there or if it’s really just 12k and network file transfer. And for the networking that seems to be on the way, they really better not require some specific app or cloud service. As much as I like the convenience, having to deal with a poorly designed app or external service is a huge turn off.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 01:24
|
|
|
As for the new anycubic and Saturn 3 that are both 12k, they are both 19 micrometers in xy resolution. So they are improvements to the previous Saturn/Anycubic which was 25-28 micrometers. The build plate volume is staying relatively close to 10" for both. The anycubic will have auto leveling, not sure if the Elegoo will. I doubt it, because I think they would have mentioned it at this point now that Anycubic has let the cat out of the bag and Anycubic's sale is happening before Elegoo. An integrated heater would be a nice feature, for sure.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 01:35
|
|
|
NewFatMike posted:Hmm a friend is routinely printing at 0.08mm with PLA on his X1C and getting great results. What material are you using? Pla from Canadian filaments. Seeing the same behaviour at 0.012 so I'm wondering if its the roll or a partial clog. Gonna try a different roll before I go to crazy
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 01:41
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Pla from Canadian filaments. Seeing the same behaviour at 0.012 so I'm wondering if its the roll or a partial clog. He’s not a big tinkerer, so I advised that he use first party filament. I think Bambu filament is made by Polymaker, no clue if there’s a markup between the two. Could be worth a shot!
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 02:57
|
|
|
BadMedic posted:Yeah it seems that a bunch of manufacturers are jumping on the klipper train recently, but all of the reviews I've seen so far have been some variation of "the printer is fine, but they got their klipper configs wrong and here's how you fix it" The Neptune 3 Pro was pretty great out of the box and they consistently release good profiles for Cura, plus there is a Neptune 3 Pro Klipper config that’s just off-the-rack (plus one for the board everybody seems to be using in their Klipper slingers if they don’t want to keep the existing Robin Nano). They are IMO the most competent downmarket brand right now, by far, and I don’t expect them to Sovol the 4 Pro. (I’m wondering if the 4 will be the current direct drive and the 4 Pro would be an all metal upgrade, because I’m not sure why you’d release a Bowden Klipper printer in 2023.)
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 06:07
|
|
|
Does anyone have experience with XTC-3D? I made some light staffs (staffs with led light bars on the top) for a large art project last year and because of the weather (fine desert dust), 42c heat, and general wear and tear from them being swung about they unfortunately broke. I’m planning on making round two this year and was hoping xtc-3D would give them the strength they need to stand up to the desert. Oh and this time I’m not going to print them with 2 outer layers and 20% infill lol. Because of the heat they are PETG, which seemed to work well!
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 06:25
|
|
|
tracecomplete posted:The Neptune 3 Pro was pretty great out of the box and they consistently release good profiles for Cura, plus there is a Neptune 3 Pro Klipper config that’s just off-the-rack (plus one for the board everybody seems to be using in their Klipper slingers if they don’t want to keep the existing Robin Nano). They are IMO the most competent downmarket brand right now, by far, and I don’t expect them to Sovol the 4 Pro. (I’m wondering if the 4 will be the current direct drive and the 4 Pro would be an all metal upgrade, because I’m not sure why you’d release a Bowden Klipper printer in 2023.) I don't quite recall where I saw/heard, but I seem to think that the Neptune 4 was going to have linear rails as opposed to belts involved. Now I am not sure if that means the difference between the 4 and 4 Pro is both are klipper and pro has linear rails, or if they both have linear rails and the difference is klipper vs non klipper.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 07:17
|
|
|
BadMedic posted:Yeah it seems that a bunch of manufacturers are jumping on the klipper train recently The most irritating thing in it all is that ATMega2560 chips were and still are more expensive than LPC176x and STM32 chips. So I'm not sure why the 3D printing scene stuck to 8bit for that long to begin with.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 09:40
|
|
|
Claes Oldenburger posted:Does anyone have experience with XTC-3D? I made some light staffs (staffs with led light bars on the top) for a large art project last year and because of the weather (fine desert dust), 42c heat, and general wear and tear from them being swung about they unfortunately broke. XTC-3D is really just meant for filling layer lines and isn't going to add any structural strength on its own. No single outer coating will, really - strength comes from compositing, like using resin and a fiberglass or carbon fiber weave to wrap the whole surface. Depending on the size and shape of your staff (  ), you could see about punching a longitudinal hole through the 3D model/models, and then stuffing a wooden or metal dowel into it to add quite a lot of extra strength.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 11:52
|
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:I don't quite recall where I saw/heard, but I seem to think that the Neptune 4 was going to have linear rails as opposed to belts involved. Now I am not sure if that means the difference between the 4 and 4 Pro is both are klipper and pro has linear rails, or if they both have linear rails and the difference is klipper vs non klipper. I am not convinced linear rails are better. At.. kinda.. anything.. related to 3d printing. According to the voron people, linear rail manufacturers have exclamantion points and question marks when they're told what the rails are being used for. We are loading them, often, in the wrong driections, and loading them far to lightly. I can't recall which it was. But someone just released a printer using metal wheels, on steel rods, that are embedded in the aluminum extrustion. that.. has my attention.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 16:00
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:XTC-3D is really just meant for filling layer lines and isn't going to add any structural strength on its own. No single outer coating will, really - strength comes from compositing, like using resin and a fiberglass or carbon fiber weave to wrap the whole surface. Ah okay thanks. Yeah right now the aluminum broom handle goes through the center, but maybe a redesign as well as printing with more outer layers and denser infill will help. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 16:33
|
|
|
PETG is fairly brittle and prone to shattering on impact, so using ABS or ASA may be better for your purposes as well
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 16:37
|
|
|
Is there a support material for ABS that pulls away clean? Like how PETG/PLA is a great support for the other? Ideally not dissolvable, looks like HIPS is the answer going that route. PS: where is my XL Josef?!
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2023 19:37
|
|
|
The Eyes Have It posted:Whoa, check this out (not my print) Thanks for posting this, I had to print my own! I should've scaled it up as that person did on theirs, it's definitely a bit undersized otherwise.  I messed with the fuzzy skin settings to see what kind of results I'd get, I'm pleased with it
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2023 00:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 04:47 |
|
|
Fuzzy-ifying your prints, the new trend in hiding print imperfections
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2023 00:50
|
|