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w00tmonger posted:These are great! Pop them online anywhere? Im procrastinating cleaning them up for better printing since theyr a bit of a hodgepodge of an older and newer variation and have some errors at the moment, but I'll post em when I do. Speaking of does anyone know the theory behind the good way to presupport? I understand Lychee autosupports are frowned upon but chitubox might be better? Or should it be done by hand?
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May 19, 2023 13:52
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Communist Thoughts posted:Im procrastinating cleaning them up for better printing since theyr a bit of a hodgepodge of an older and newer variation and have some errors at the moment, but I'll post em when I do. Some people may have a system. I've just learned via repeated failures how to do it based on tummyfeels. There's advice that can be developed I guess but all I've really got is looking at it and thinking "Yeah that's gonna fail right there". I also suspect something about my setup forces me to have to over support things quite hard compared to other people but I don't want to change things trying to chase it down since what I've got works and I'm more interested in output than tinkering for efficiency.
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May 19, 2023 14:57
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I use chitubox autosupports on most my models. For mini figures, I tip the figure backwards 45 degrees, then use the default light autosupports. 90% of the time this works right out of the box. If I get a failure, I'll go in and manually add some extra medium supports at problem areas. That's solved the problem 99% of the time. Pre-supported minis usually come out cleaner, but for what I'm doing a few pockmarks on the backs of my minis is not a big deal. If you were doing a high detail display piece that you waned perfect all around, then you'll have look into how the pros do it.
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May 19, 2023 15:12
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I generally have chitubox spam the light supports, then manually add a few heavy ones where it's closest to the build plate. That seems to do the trick, although I've been having some unrelated leveling problems lately. You can eliminate a ton of pockmarks by pulling the supports before you cure.
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May 19, 2023 16:37
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Support removal; I do a dirty IPA and Cleanish IPA rinse and then use a heat gun to heat up and peel off supports easily. If there’s anything fragile being supported (limbs, weapons, etc) then I’ll snip those before this step to avoid ripping them off. I got like the cheapest Harbor freight heat gun and it can sit pointing up on its end, so I turn it on low and just hold the mini over to heat it up.
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May 19, 2023 18:24
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Bodanarko posted:heat gun
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May 19, 2023 18:28
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Slyphic posted:What's the room temp when you're using the heat gun? This sounds like a Northern hack. Northern here though we are hitting highs in the 90s now. Garage is sitting above 70 and this is still useful for making supports pop off super easily. Same concept as the warm water bath technique. Not just for cold ambient temps!
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May 19, 2023 18:38
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I got the STLs for this legally distinct not-Razor's Crest from http://dragons.rest/ after buying their Outpost: Origins set. Tons of nice crisp models, I've been enjoying it.     
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May 20, 2023 23:50
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Hey guys, i got a friend to test run 3D printer to make some warhammer terrain (not pirated bought from etsy STL) and i am really inpressed by it! I definitely want to invest in a 3D printer in the medium future to make scatter terrain and rock formations and destroyed buildings, what is a good high quality printer i could look into getting for under 1000 dollars?
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May 21, 2023 19:02
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Al-Saqr posted:Hey guys, i got a friend to test run 3D printer to make some warhammer terrain (not pirated bought from etsy STL) and i am really inpressed by it! I definitely want to invest in a 3D printer in the medium future to make scatter terrain and rock formations and destroyed buildings, what is a good high quality printer i could look into getting for under 1000 dollars? Wait until June for new line up, but Elegoo Neptune 4 will probably work really well for you and be about 250. Neptune 3 Pro is really good and is 300, but will drop after next release cycle in June. This is assuming you mean fdm printers. If you want resin you would do well with the new anycubic 12k they are launching next week or the Saturn 3. Both 300 to 400, but expect to pay another 150 to 250 for accessories.
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May 21, 2023 19:54
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Wait until June for new line up, but Elegoo Neptune 4 will probably work really well for you and be about 250. Neptune 3 Pro is really good and is 300, but will drop after next release cycle in June. This is assuming you mean fdm printers. If you want resin you would do well with the new anycubic 12k they are launching next week or the Saturn 3. Both 300 to 400, but expect to pay another 150 to 250 for accessories. Nice thanks, im still many months away from getting one so ill be sure to check out the latest ones. Is there any difference between resin and FDM? Is resin higher quality? The one i tested was FDM
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May 21, 2023 19:56
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Resin is insanely higher quality, but more fragile and way messier
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May 21, 2023 20:17
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I guess for my needs (making terrain for tabletop) an FDM is more than good enough for me, ill just find one with a good quality and resolution and im set.
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May 21, 2023 20:20
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If it helps I printed that space ship in an Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus, an FDM printer.
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May 21, 2023 21:58
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I asked in the general 3d printing thread and didn't get any replies so I'll cross post to here as well I'm at a loss for what the gently caress i did to break this thing. I didn't use my ender 3 V2 all winter because it's cold where I print. It's warm so I dug it back out and I've had nothing but problems. I replaced the hot end because I managed to clog it and it was just easier to get a new one than chip away all the filament, plus id broken the cover last year. Now I can't get the bed to level. I'm currently trying to print at z-offset of + .85 which gets the corners but is too high for the middle. The back left corner by the power cord is as condensed as I can get it and it's still too high for anything lower. The other corners all are getting better as I run this calibration print over and over but I don't know wtf to do about the middle And as an unrelated thing why does Octoprint trigger an M112 error almost every time it connects?
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May 21, 2023 22:04
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I'm looking to jump from FDM to Resin 3d printing for TTRPG minis, and I'm having one heck of a time figuring out which features I should be prioritizing. I'm going to be putting the printer in the garage for fume/spill reasons, and I'm in Seattle, so the ambient temperature will be well below ideal. On one hand, there's the Uniformation GKTwo with a built-in heater and carbon filter. It seems like it's got a bunch of quality of life features that I'd definitely use. On the other I could jump on the Anycubic Photon Mono M5s for less money, more pixels (does going over 8k even matter?,) and a self-leveling bed. But I'd need to build my own heater or heated enclosure, and that seems like it would be an absolute pain to work around. What should I be focusing on for a first-time resin user?
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May 23, 2023 20:17
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BabelFish posted:I'm looking to jump from FDM to Resin 3d printing for TTRPG minis, and I'm having one heck of a time figuring out which features I should be prioritizing. That new anycubic looks amazing, currently trying to get my hands on one. Pretty much any of the newer gen elegoos,anycubics, phrozens etc should be good though. The anycubic is just claiming some speeds that seems bananas. Ive been wondering how much of it is just the resin their using and the new feps though (I suspect that's probably most of it)
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May 23, 2023 20:31
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BabelFish posted:I'm looking to jump from FDM to Resin 3d printing for TTRPG minis, and I'm having one heck of a time figuring out which features I should be prioritizing. The thing that is most likely to cause printing issues in your case definitely seems like it would be the temperature, so a built-in heater would probably save you from many failed prints. I've been resin printing for about a year now and in my experience when a print fails there's always a few different possible explanations. If you have a built-in heater that's one variable you don't have to worry about. Leveling the bed is usually not that big of a deal and most people cannot tell the difference between the different resolutions so going over 8k wouldn't be a priority for me.
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May 23, 2023 20:40
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As someone in a northern state, temperature is one of the most critical variables, if not the most, as a lot of the other stuff won't change much after you set up the printer. How often are people releveling their build plates?
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May 23, 2023 20:53
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I have an older Anycubic printer and have been impressed overall, if I was in the market I would jump on the m5s. I’m in Washington state too and the temps in my garage are rough in winter but doable with some work. I bought a fermentation band for like 20 bucks on Amazon and strapped it to my vat. When printing in the winter I preheated my resin by setting the bottle on a heated FDM Pinter bed for a bit while occasionally shaking to spread the heat, and let the vat heat up with the band on for that same amount of time. Also used a cheap IKEA cabinet as an enclosure that contains heat a bit. Maybe an hour of heating up and no printing failures I could tie to temps. Curing and machine running generates some heat to help out the band so it maintained above 70 even in a 40 degree garage in my experience.
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May 23, 2023 21:59
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BlackIronHeart posted:How often are people releveling their build plates? I'm pretty much doing it as needed - which is to say after I notice raft fallout on one side or the other, or around the edge of the plate.
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May 23, 2023 23:35
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So as a still semi-n00b, I am trying to figure out what I can get away with when it comes to pre-supported files. Here's an example of the islands that UV Tools finds in them. The islands are 97 and 84 pixels respectively, and they do attach on the next layer. If this was one model, I'd tweak in UV tools or hunt it down in Lychee (these islands are there after searching and pressing "add supports to all islands" in Lychee) but it's a set of infantry that is 24 different models. Could I print these without concern, or are they too big? I guess I am asking is it the size of the islands I should be worried about, or how far away they are from supported things? Normally, I manually fix all islands over 5 px, then use UV tools to remove all the small ones, and I have goodly results. But I am lazy. Oh so lazy.
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May 29, 2023 14:34
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Lumpy posted:So as a still semi-n00b, I am trying to figure out what I can get away with when it comes to pre-supported files. Here's an example of the islands that UV Tools finds in them. The islands are 97 and 84 pixels respectively, and they do attach on the next layer. If this was one model, I'd tweak in UV tools or hunt it down in Lychee (these islands are there after searching and pressing "add supports to all islands" in Lychee) but it's a set of infantry that is 24 different models. Could I print these without concern, or are they too big? I guess I am asking is it the size of the islands I should be worried about, or how far away they are from supported things? Did you mean to link to an image here? I mean, I'm still learning I probably couldnt answer your question anyway, but it feels like there should be an image.
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May 29, 2023 15:52
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I recently started using Sunlu ABS-like resin, and I keep running into a problem where the supports sometimes delaminates from the raft. It usually happens when I'm using resin that was in the vat, so maybe it's a separation issue? I've changed the FEP, leveled the build plate, tested all kinds of settings, but it still happens. I use a pretty big, and very thin raft, but maybe the more flexible ABS-like doesn't play nice with that? It can happen anywhere in the print. 
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May 30, 2023 10:50
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Which raft type are you using? I use Shape Wall in Lychee and I haven't seen any issues with the Sunlu ABS-Like stuff so far.
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May 30, 2023 11:11
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Skate in Chitubox, set up so it's completely flat. The closest thing in Lychee is probably Pixelate Round. Edit: Transition layers might actually help me here, I'll try that out.
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May 30, 2023 11:18
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Electric Hobo posted:Skate in Chitubox, set up so it's completely flat. The closest thing in Lychee is probably Pixelate Round. Ive been seeing this a ton with a different resin lately. Afaik, make sure your bottom layers bring you up over the height of the rafts thickness, add a few transition layers, and slow down your bottom layer lift speed
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May 30, 2023 13:54
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w00tmonger posted:Ive been seeing this a ton with a different resin lately.
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May 30, 2023 14:30
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SiKboy posted:Did you mean to link to an image here? I mean, I'm still learning I probably couldnt answer your question anyway, but it feels like there should be an image. I am ver good at internets. Here's the question again for context: So as a still semi-n00b, I am trying to figure out what I can get away with when it comes to pre-supported files. Here's an example of the islands that UV Tools finds in them. The islands are 97 and 84 pixels respectively, and they do attach on the next layer. If this was one model, I'd tweak in UV tools or hunt it down in Lychee (these islands are there after searching and pressing "add supports to all islands" in Lychee) but it's a set of infantry that is 24 different models. Could I print these without concern, or are they too big? I guess I am asking is it the size of the islands I should be worried about, or how far away they are from supported things? Normally, I manually fix all islands over 5 px, then use UV tools to remove all the small ones, and I have goodly results. But I am lazy. Oh so lazy.
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May 30, 2023 14:45
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Electric Hobo posted:I've tried it all, except adding transition layers, so I've got a test print going right now. I'll print a couple of plates, and see how it goes. If it helps, that's the recomendatiom I got from the vulcan resin guys. From what I can tell that sort of failure is well into "it's magic" tertitory
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May 30, 2023 17:53
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What's the current hotness for resin for printing minis? I need to print stuff for basing. This is on a Mars 2 Pro if it matters.
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Jun 1, 2023 15:25
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I've gone through a couple bottles of Sunlu ABS-like and it's been very reliable, and the price is pretty good too.
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Jun 1, 2023 15:38
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Ditto, 4 bottles of Sunlu ABS, a crap ton of regular sized and 10mm models, some random stuff for friends. No real failures at all, no complaints whatsoever. It's not brittle, it's not too bendy unless you've got hair thin long parts, good detail. I can't see any reason to order a different kind of resin at all.
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Jun 1, 2023 16:47
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Funzo posted:What's the current hotness for resin for printing minis? I need to print stuff for basing. This is on a Mars 2 Pro if it matters. Sunlu abs sounds good.otherwise I rock sirayatech navy grey with some tenacious mixed in, or Vulcan when I can get my hands on it.
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Jun 1, 2023 16:52
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Funzo posted:What's the current hotness for resin for printing minis? I need to print stuff for basing. This is on a Mars 2 Pro if it matters. Nthing Sunlu although I've just run out and now find it's  Amazon. Perfectly good stuff if you can get it cheap.
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Jun 1, 2023 18:59
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Sunlu ABS is what I use when the price is good. Works great for miniatures.
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Jun 1, 2023 19:26
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Yeah, Sunlu ABS is great. I've been having some weird problems with it, but I think I have it fixed now. I need a few more prints to be sure.
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Jun 1, 2023 19:32
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boneration posted:Nthing Sunlu although I've just run out and now find it's Still haven't spotted it in Canada for a reasonable price. Afaik the move up here is 5kg jugs from sirayatech. About as cheap you can go for decent stuff. Happy to be proven wrong though. Resin is like my biggest cost as a business at the moment
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Jun 1, 2023 20:35
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I need help! I am trying to print this mammoth Mastadon model on my Saturn 2. I've failed once on these particular parts, but I don't want to fail again because I'd just be wasting resin. In my original attempt I tried to hollow them out and put a hole in each to let the resin drain out. Problem is I tried to lift them from the build plate with supports which just led to them sagging in once case, and failing to print in another. My issue is these parts are huge and only one of them I can put directly on the build plate. These are the command sections of the Mastadon. One part I think I can rotate so it is flat on the build plate. The other has doodads and details all over so I'm going to have to suspend it and support it somehow.  Bottom of both objects  Detail of surface detail of mating face of "rear" section  I like this model, but I don't like having to figure out all the supports, although, like any other hobby it takes practice to get good at. Any guidance?
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Jun 8, 2023 23:22
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Ez8 posted:I need help! Is it possible to see the render of the completed model or a link to the associated store page? The reason is I want to see where holes could go that they would not be seen and see which parts of the pieces need the highest level of precision. What support settings were you using? For the first one, the heart/L shaped one, I would angle it back 15 degrees or so, and then angle it to the side 15 degrees or so. Then place two large holes or 4 medium holes or 6 small holes, whichever makes sense, on the bottom. Click it and open auto supports. Enable a raft of the skate shape, and have the piece at least 5mm above the plate. Set supports to light, with 60% coverage at 2mm or 75% coverage at 1.6m. Then place medium supports manually at areas that have a lot of red or that you think could use it. Make sure some of the medium supports connect to the bottom of the model, you don't want it to pop off before it gets to the medium supports. See how that works for you then try printing the bigger piece. Typically large flat objects look like the sahara desert if you don't have a lot of supports. You don't need the supports to all be very strong, just there to facilitate even printing. It is helpful to conceptualize supports as two categories: Those designed to support the weight of the model and provide an anchorage to the build plate, and supports to facilitate the clean printing of details. Typically you want many of the latter, and you want them small as possible to minimize impact on the finished piece, and the medium/large supports you want a few of, attached in un-obtrusive areas.
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Jun 9, 2023 00:04
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