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Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

alnilam posted:

Give that mirror a taste of its own medicine and glue some drywall to it to cover it up :twisted:

The Garyist of Gary moves.

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mutata
Mar 1, 2003

alnilam posted:

Give that mirror a taste of its own medicine and glue some drywall to it to cover it up :twisted:

lol do this. Stud finders hate this 1 crazy trick.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
I hear wallpaper accent walls are popular these days

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Yeah, or hey! Have you tried putting a mirror there instead?

Facebook Aunt
Oct 4, 2008

wiggle wiggle




Canada. My mom has a portable dishwasher and bought a portable wash-spin-dryer. They do not use the same connector, so every time she switches from one to other she has to switch connectors.



Is there some kind of quick connect adapter that could make switching easier? I know there is for garden hoses.



Like these guys, but with kitchen threading?

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
I also have both. I’ve seen people plumb the washer in to showerheads, the toilet supply line, and regular laundry hookups. I’ve also seen the dishwasher plumbed in permanently.

I don’t think you want to do that for the sink faucet because it would be huge and incredibly annoying. But if you want to, you can find adapters. Don’t know if the hose hookups are safe for drinking water or if you can fit aerators to them for normal tap use, though.

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Are they steel hoses? Otherwise can you just cut one and put the same ends on both?

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.
loving Gary, man.

The back porch decking on my house was getting long in the tooth so I had a local guy come and replace it; he did a great job but it took him longer than expected so he didn't get around to replacing the top of the deck railing which was in a similar condition. In another episode of "You Dumbass" I told him not to worry about it because I could replace the tops of the railing myself. I started that process this morning by removing the screws holding the boards to the railing. To my horror, after removing all the screws, most of the boards were still solidly attached. Further inspection shows that some rear end in a top hat used construction adhesive in addition to the screws so everything is, despite considerable effort on my part with a crowbar, still attached.



Does anyone have ideas on what I could possibly do short of removing the entire railing sections and replacing them? I thought about a heat gun to try to loosen the adhesive but the long run of the deck is 14ft and I don't see how I could possibly complete that with the few remaining years allotted to my mortal coil. Of course my local guy is not returning my texts so I'm left to solve this on my own. I can go refashion the deck railings from scratch but that's a whole lot of time and cost that I hadn't factored in (it's me, I'm the dumbass).

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Rent a sawzall and saw the gap between the board and the posts, keeping the blade angled upward

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Beef Of Ages posted:

loving Gary, man.

The back porch decking on my house was getting long in the tooth so I had a local guy come and replace it; he did a great job but it took him longer than expected so he didn't get around to replacing the top of the deck railing which was in a similar condition. In another episode of "You Dumbass" I told him not to worry about it because I could replace the tops of the railing myself. I started that process this morning by removing the screws holding the boards to the railing. To my horror, after removing all the screws, most of the boards were still solidly attached. Further inspection shows that some rear end in a top hat used construction adhesive in addition to the screws so everything is, despite considerable effort on my part with a crowbar, still attached.



Does anyone have ideas on what I could possibly do short of removing the entire railing sections and replacing them? I thought about a heat gun to try to loosen the adhesive but the long run of the deck is 14ft and I don't see how I could possibly complete that with the few remaining years allotted to my mortal coil. Of course my local guy is not returning my texts so I'm left to solve this on my own. I can go refashion the deck railings from scratch but that's a whole lot of time and cost that I hadn't factored in (it's me, I'm the dumbass).

Hey man, at least it's not unsafety-railing:

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

Beef Of Ages posted:

loving Gary, man.

The back porch decking on my house was getting long in the tooth so I had a local guy come and replace it; he did a great job but it took him longer than expected so he didn't get around to replacing the top of the deck railing which was in a similar condition. In another episode of "You Dumbass" I told him not to worry about it because I could replace the tops of the railing myself. I started that process this morning by removing the screws holding the boards to the railing. To my horror, after removing all the screws, most of the boards were still solidly attached. Further inspection shows that some rear end in a top hat used construction adhesive in addition to the screws so everything is, despite considerable effort on my part with a crowbar, still attached.



Does anyone have ideas on what I could possibly do short of removing the entire railing sections and replacing them? I thought about a heat gun to try to loosen the adhesive but the long run of the deck is 14ft and I don't see how I could possibly complete that with the few remaining years allotted to my mortal coil. Of course my local guy is not returning my texts so I'm left to solve this on my own. I can go refashion the deck railings from scratch but that's a whole lot of time and cost that I hadn't factored in (it's me, I'm the dumbass).

If you have an oscillating tool, that's decent at getting between layers and hitting adhesive. A circular saw set to the depth of the top board should help to work in smaller sections if it's flat enough on top to be consistent thickness.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Rent a sawzall and saw the gap between the board and the posts, keeping the blade angled upward

This is my choice. Oscillating tool might work, but at least the blades I've seen aren't the right size and shape for this problem.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

This is my choice. Oscillating tool might work, but at least the blades I've seen aren't the right size and shape for this problem.

Scraper blade using the tool upside down works, but the circ saw and a 2.5 lb sledge hammer is the fastest way.

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.
Trip Report: After acquisition of a sawzall (and what home project isn't complete without having to buy a new power tool?) the adhesive was dispatched and all of the old poo poo is removed. :hellyeah: Had to do a bit of cleanup with the saw because the adhesive remained stuck to the bottom railing and left behind some hunks of the top board when I pulled them off. It's not perfectly smooth or pretty but it doesn't need to be given that I'm putting a new board on top of it.

A circular saw would be a good plan were it not for how the top board overlapped the railing underneath; the sawzall with a six inch blade worked perfectly. And now I have another Milwaukee M18 tool to use along with my drill.

Thanks goons. :respek:

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I will always evangelize the Sawzall, and it’s smaller brother the Hackzall. Pray with us at the Brushless Church, children. Come hear the word of M18.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Dr. Lunchables posted:

I will always evangelize the Sawzall, and it’s smaller brother the Hackzall. Pray with us at the Brushless Church, children. Come hear the word of M18.

I will go a step further and evangelize the 1-handed battery Ridgid sawzall, that fucker made incredibly short work of the bed in a van I needed to restore my Econoline pickup, that was located so far from civilization in the New Jersey Pine Barrens that there was no cell service. :rock:

Will be there early tomorrow morning to salvage more. pray for me/cordless. :pray:

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:28 on May 27, 2023

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp
I'm looking for a good wood filler. I want something that is fine grained, sandable, and stainable. I'm refinishing some old cabinet doors. They were previously painted and have white wood filler where the holes for the handle bolts were. I want to coat it with a better filler that will take a stain then fake the grain with paint before polyurethane. Anyone have a recommendation?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Beef Of Ages posted:

(and what home project isn't complete without having to buy a new power tool?)

What kind of homeowner are you if you're complaining about having to buy a new tool?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Vim Fuego posted:

I'm looking for a good wood filler. I want something that is fine grained, sandable, and stainable



Old Reliable: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DAP-Plasti...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

That's topped the lists I saw online. Thanks!

Corla Plankun
May 8, 2007

improve the lives of everyone
Is there an electronic repair/hobbyist thread somewhere?

I've got a "RYOBI 40V Brushless 20 in." push-mower that won't even try to start and I'm gradually testing all the failsafe sensors.

I've got an EE degree so I'm not a total moron or in danger of setting myself on fire, but I haven't worked in EE in 15 years so it would be nice to bounce some questions off of some more experienced people.

In case such a thread doesn't exist, here's a question: How can I test that a lawnmower's magnetic "bag sensor" is working correctly? I have zero intuition for how it might work.

Here's the wiring diagram if anyone wants it: https://www.manualowl.com/m/Ryobi/RY401110-Y/Manual/562462?page=7

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Most sensors like that are just switches, you test them by either jumping them or cutting them accordingly. I'd jump those together to rule it out, or check for continuity across them with the bag on if you want to confirm its working.

E:Before you start messing with all that though, do you for sure have no spark? It's an easy test; unscrew it, plug it in and put the other side against some metal with a good ground, then try to start the mower and see what happens. If it's sparks then it's not electrical

Opopanax fucked around with this message at 03:52 on May 27, 2023

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Corla Plankun posted:

Is there an electronic repair/hobbyist thread somewhere?

I've got a "RYOBI 40V Brushless 20 in." push-mower that won't even try to start and I'm gradually testing all the failsafe sensors.

I've got an EE degree so I'm not a total moron or in danger of setting myself on fire, but I haven't worked in EE in 15 years so it would be nice to bounce some questions off of some more experienced people.

In case such a thread doesn't exist, here's a question: How can I test that a lawnmower's magnetic "bag sensor" is working correctly? I have zero intuition for how it might work.

Here's the wiring diagram if anyone wants it: https://www.manualowl.com/m/Ryobi/RY401110-Y/Manual/562462?page=7

Make sure you've actually extended the handles fully. Seriously.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Opopanax posted:

E:Before you start messing with all that though, do you for sure have no spark? It's an easy test; unscrew it, plug it in and put the other side against some metal with a good ground, then try to start the mower and see what happens. If it's sparks then it's not electrical

Judging from the mower being "brushless 40V", it's battery-powered, so there'd better be no spark!

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Judging from the mower being "brushless 40V", it's battery-powered, so there'd better be no spark!

:downs: Yes I suppose that would make sense. Guess it's not the carb, either!

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Danhenge posted:

Make sure you've actually extended the handles fully. Seriously.
This was the issue with mine. The extension lock got loose, and the like half a millimeter of play was enough to stop it.

FizFashizzle
Mar 30, 2005







How much area can you reasonably fix with self leveling underlayment?

The previous owner "converted" a garage into another living space. They didn't level it at all; just threw down some cheap vinyl and took pictures for the realtor.

The square footage is approximately 290 square feet. The grade is approximately .99% on 152" of run with a 1.5 inch difference, based on me eyeballing it with a level and a taught string.

The goal would be to tear up the lovely vinyl floor, level it out, frame out a new wall and turn it into two rooms instead of one oddly deep converted garage.

I've just had two different suggestions on the cheapest/best way to level it. One would be some leveing compound as above, the other would be a floating floor. Just curious for feedback. Ignore the paint swatches and the hideous trim that'd all go as well.



devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

FizFashizzle posted:

How much area can you reasonably fix with self leveling underlayment?

The previous owner "converted" a garage into another living space. They didn't level it at all; just threw down some cheap vinyl and took pictures for the realtor.

The square footage is approximately 290 square feet. The grade is approximately .99% on 152" of run with a 1.5 inch difference, based on me eyeballing it with a level and a taught string.

The goal would be to tear up the lovely vinyl floor, level it out, frame out a new wall and turn it into two rooms instead of one oddly deep converted garage.

I've just had two different suggestions on the cheapest/best way to level it. One would be some leveing compound as above, the other would be a floating floor. Just curious for feedback. Ignore the paint swatches and the hideous trim that'd all go as well.





https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-LevelQuik-RS-50-lbs-Self-Leveling-Underlayment-LQ50/100192482 claims to go up to 1.5 inches, and I've done a pour of about 1" with no issues.

You are going to need bags and bags and bags of this - you should definitely do the math and figure out how many!

Apparently they now have trucks that can mix it on site: https://laticretesupercap.com/en/contractors-applications

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
It also does not actually self-level very well, tools exist to help it along.

I had a similar situation and ended up basically spot patching the worst spots with thinset, such that everything was in the manufacturers tolerance. Not perfect, but it came out ok enough. It's maybe five or six months and nothing is separating. The alternative would have been much more difficult and expensive.

Two areas needed to be ground down, which was unpleasant.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

You at least have to spread it, rake it, and feather the edges, yeah. It's only fire and forget if you're doing a tiny spot.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



FizFashizzle what's your ceiling height like in there? I think that would effect building a floor to level things out, how much head room you'd have left.

UKJeff
May 17, 2023

by vyelkin

FizFashizzle posted:

How much area can you reasonably fix with self leveling underlayment?

The previous owner "converted" a garage into another living space. They didn't level it at all; just threw down some cheap vinyl and took pictures for the realtor.

The square footage is approximately 290 square feet. The grade is approximately .99% on 152" of run with a 1.5 inch difference, based on me eyeballing it with a level and a taught string.

The goal would be to tear up the lovely vinyl floor, level it out, frame out a new wall and turn it into two rooms instead of one oddly deep converted garage.

I've just had two different suggestions on the cheapest/best way to level it. One would be some leveing compound as above, the other would be a floating floor. Just curious for feedback. Ignore the paint swatches and the hideous trim that'd all go as well.





That’s a huge area to try and level out with self leveling compound. Shim 2x4s to get them level, fasten to the concrete, and cover with 5/8” plywood. That will still be a major project but it’s much more forgiving and you won’t have to do it all at once.



Really though, 1.5” over 13’ is not too bad of a pitch. I’d save the time/money and just play it as she lies

dupersaurus
Aug 1, 2012

Futurism was an art movement where dudes were all 'CARS ARE COOL AND THE PAST IS FOR CHUMPS. LET'S DRAW SOME CARS.'
Are there any sites good for buying stuff like good quality individual hex keys?

umbrage
Sep 5, 2007

beast mode
After multiple dis/re-assemblies from movers, our West Elm bed is getting a little too shaky due to missing or stripped hardware. I managed to find a copy of the assembly instructions, and was planning to just buy a set of replacement hardware, but I am having a hell of a time finding the proper bolts that I need:



The best term I've tried is "furniture bolts" which are usually the combination of 1) washer-shaped head with 2) allen key hole and 3) brass finish, but have had no joy finding imperial ones, especially at those lengths. I've even tried McMaster-Carr, but I'm probably not searching/navigating their site correctly. Could anyone point me to the proper place, or better search terms to use?

Ugh, this is even assuming that the thread pitch is standardized, since most of these will screw into thread inserts in the frame.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Just go to home depot with a screw you already have and match it. They will have a little stand with nuts you can screw it in to to make sure it's the correct thread pitch. and bins of various bolts/screws.

It looks like what you need are just 5/16" button head screws.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Bring this stuff to a good local hardware store and ask them.

Mine has a series of bins of odds and ends like this in the loose hardware aisle.

space uncle
Sep 17, 2006

"I don’t care if Biden beats Trump. I’m not offloading responsibility. If enough people feel similar to me, such as the large population of Muslim people in Dearborn, Michigan. Then he won’t"


umbrage posted:

After multiple dis/re-assemblies from movers, our West Elm bed is getting a little too shaky due to missing or stripped hardware. I managed to find a copy of the assembly instructions, and was planning to just buy a set of replacement hardware, but I am having a hell of a time finding the proper bolts that I need:



The best term I've tried is "furniture bolts" which are usually the combination of 1) washer-shaped head with 2) allen key hole and 3) brass finish, but have had no joy finding imperial ones, especially at those lengths. I've even tried McMaster-Carr, but I'm probably not searching/navigating their site correctly. Could anyone point me to the proper place, or better search terms to use?

Ugh, this is even assuming that the thread pitch is standardized, since most of these will screw into thread inserts in the frame.

I can’t tell if those have fine or coarse thread, you will either need to count threads and calculate pitch or just take it to the hardware store.

I guarantee MCM has something close enough. Worse case scenario is you end up with random metals or different drives.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/system-of-measurement~inch/head-diameter~5-16/system-of-measurement~inch/head-type~socket

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
It's not clear to me exactly what the hardware is you're looking for, but you might find the term "bed bolt" to be helpful. They're long bolts that are designed to screw into captive nuts.

umbrage
Sep 5, 2007

beast mode

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

It's not clear to me exactly what the hardware is you're looking for, but you might find the term "bed bolt" to be helpful. They're long bolts that are designed to screw into captive nuts.

It's just the bolts that hold the various parts together, e.g.



The movers gave, at most, a single flying gently caress when reassembling with their impact drivers; many are in various states of stripped/cross-threaded/missing/reversed, so I wanted to just start fresh with a new set and keep the old ones as spares. Some screw into thread inserts in the wooden frame, some screw into the ... other thing, whose name also escapes me (binding post?), pictured below:



I guess what tripped me up is that they have the very specific flat head that I see all the time in furniture hardware, but rarely elsewhere. Powershift was very close in that "button head" has the sort of pan/truss shape I figure is supposed to be kind to the frame and the mattress; countersunk shapes probably won't work. My Google searches for "imperial bolts for furniture with like a pan head but hex" weren't yielding much so I figured there is/was a very specific term.

In any case, I'm going by Lowes today to get an angle grinder for mower blade sharpening, so I'll bring that bolt along and see if something matches, as well as giving the local (good) hardware stores a shot, as Motronic suggested.

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Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Chicago screw.
Easiest is to bring it in somewhere like others have said, but you could try reaching out to the company, too. I know with stuff like Ikea they'll get you whatever hardware you need if you need to replace something, and you have their part numbers already

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