|
Opopanax posted:It's usually a municipal thing so I'd start by calling your city hall tomorrow and see what they advise Metes and bounds surveys/determining property lines is not "usually a municipal thing" and a quick google shows that texas is no different than anywhere else: you hire a private surveyor.
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 19:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 22:09 |
|
|
my transition doesn't fit properly, because the cap between the flooring and the tile, in some areas, is just a tad too narrow. I need 9/16" clearance for those plastic teeth on the bottom (I thikn it's called a t-molding). but in some areas the floor wasn't cut far back enough, so the gap is just barely too narrow. I just need to remove maybe 1/16" inch, what would be the best way to do that? mini hacksaw? i also have a dremel. basically the area between the gap and the red line. thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 19:19
|
|
|
Bioshuffle posted:In the state of Texas, can you call the city to come out and mark property lines? I was under the impression that was usually done by a private surveyor. Definitely call the city first. If your municipality requires a permit for a fence and the neighbor didn't pull one or they didn't mention on the permit that they are in fact moving an existing fence, they might be in trouble. Try the planning and zoning dept. and the permitting dept. Both would probably be interested to know someone is moving a fence without their permission. Also tell your neighbor to stop work and inform them that if the fence is in fact on your property you're gonna tear it down and they're gonna have to pay for another fence. Ask to see the paper survey and ask them to show you the marked corners of their lot-there should ideally be some steel rebar survey pins or a concrete corner marker and those should give you some idea of where the actual property line is. Next call a lawyer if you don't get any satisfaction from the city and the neighbor can't identify the corners of their lot. There is a thing where if you have a maintained (and especially paid taxes on) some property for a certain amount of time, you can claim it as yours. 'Adverse possession' is the legal term, aka 'squatter's rights.' How it works will vary by state and locality, IANAL-talk to a local real estate attorney about that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 19:54
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Metes and bounds surveys/determining property lines is not "usually a municipal thing" and a quick google shows that texas is no different than anywhere else: you hire a private surveyor. Ok, different in America , don't listen to me then. I should have expected Texas would privatize everything, that's on me
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 20:01
|
|
|
Opopanax posted:Ok, different in the states, don't listen to me then. I should have expected Texas would privatize everything, that's on me What state are you talking about? Municipalities providing metes and bound surveys is basically unheard of. So if that's happening in an entire state somewhere I'd like to know specifically where so I know I'm not giving faulty advice.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 20:02
|
|
|
actionjackson posted:my transition doesn't fit properly, because the cap between the flooring and the tile, in some areas, is just a tad too narrow. I need 9/16" clearance for those plastic teeth on the bottom (I thikn it's called a t-molding). but in some areas the floor wasn't cut far back enough, so the gap is just barely too narrow. I just need to remove maybe 1/16" inch, what would be the best way to do that? mini hacksaw? i also have a dremel. basically the area between the gap and the red line. thanks! I think your Dremel would be up for the job with a wood cutting bit like so: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...s-543/202315728
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 20:49
|
|
|
Good afternoon. I've got some windows in my house that are missing parts and I'd like to try to order replacements but I can't find a brand on them anywhere, just the place they were ordered from. Is there a good resource for figuring out who made these so I can go down the rabbit hole of seeing if parts are available? (I already checked the store listed there, they've been bought out and replaced with another store, and that other store sells 8 different brands of windows, so that doesn't help me. The barcode turns up nothing, either.)
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 21:09
|
|
|
Any other stickers or marks on the on the sides or in the corners of the glass? There are a couple of orgs these manufacturers seem to be a part of....like AAMI and NAMI I think? If they were they should have a number on the window somewhere and you can look it up to see who it is. E: found an example: 
Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Jun 11, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 21:17
|
|
|
I'm trying to remove this shelf from my garage that the previous owner installed. I'd rather not put huge poles in the drywall, but I'm going to be throwing the shelf away so I don't care if that gets destroyed. Its just made out of plywood, nailed into the studs of the wall. What tools do I need? Guess I can just take everything off except for the piece against the wall?
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 21:30
|
|
|
nitsuga posted:I think your Dremel would be up for the job with a wood cutting bit like so: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...s-543/202315728 thanks - i don't have that one in my kit, but would any of these work? it's laminate so it should be pretty easy to grind down I would assume one of the purple ones - I've mainly used those for my dog's nails actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jun 11, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 21:52
|
|
|
Fozzy The Bear posted:I'm trying to remove this shelf from my garage that the previous owner installed. A cat's paw and a hammer if it's really just those nails visible through the back of it. And no, you don't take it off in pieces unless for some reason you can tell it was built as such. It's overwhelmingly likely it was built on a bench or on the floor and then a few nails were tossed through it to mount it to the wall. It's entirely likely the fasteners it was built with aren't accessible while it's on the wall and it may even be glued together in addition. This is a situation where you have to use good judgement in trying the most obvious thing first and knowing when that is or isn't working and move on to the next least damaging thing to the surface(s) you're trying to save. Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jun 11, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 22:09
|
|
|
Have a piece of scrap wood handy. When you try to pry the shelf off, put the scrap wood next to your prybar so it isn't pressing directly into the drywall. Otherwise you just end up putting a bunch of dents into the drywall.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 22:12
|
|
|
actionjackson posted:thanks - i don't have that one in my kit, but would any of these work? it's laminate so it should be pretty easy to grind down If you’re using a dremel or oscillating tool and it’s not something you have a lot of experience with (and sometimes that doesn’t even matter) it might be really hard to do a straight line, so you might want to make some sort of guide or jig. Also probably want to scribe a line with it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 22:18
|
|
|
Motronic posted:A cat's paw and a hammer if it's really just those nails visible through the back of it. And no, you don't take it off in pieces unless for some reason you can tell it was built as such. It's overwhelmingly likely it was built on a bench or on the floor and then a few nails were tossed through it to mount it to the wall. It's entirely likely the fasteners it was built with aren't accessible while it's on the wall and it may even be glued together in addition. I don't have a cat's paw, I'm a dog person.   Guess I'll go buy one now.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 23:14
|
|
|
The Dave posted:If you’re using a dremel or oscillating tool and it’s not something you have a lot of experience with (and sometimes that doesn’t even matter) it might be really hard to do a straight line, so you might want to make some sort of guide or jig. Also probably want to scribe a line with it. it doesn't have to be straight at all since the transition will cover it all up
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 23:20
|
|
|
actionjackson posted:thanks - i don't have that one in my kit, but would any of these work? it's laminate so it should be pretty easy to grind down Try this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-543-Cu...6525156&sr=8-17 You should be able to find it locally, unless you want to get it from Amazon.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2023 00:13
|
|
|
actionjackson posted:thanks - i don't have that one in my kit, but would any of these work? it's laminate so it should be pretty easy to grind down Nothing in there is meant for cutting I don’t think. I’d probably buy the bit I linked and find some wood scraps. Then mark it all up and practice some as mentioned.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2023 00:48
|
|
|
i just figured i'd grind the extra bit off, just like with anything else
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2023 02:22
|
|
|
Does anyone have a good guide for creating/replacing a small 3-step set of stairs with a landing? I'm looking at my back steps, and originally I was just going to sand, paint/stain and reseal the boards, but looking closer, some of the boards appear to be shifting side to side. I haven't taken them off to see how bad it is yet, but the fact that I can nudge one of the boards back and forth by lightly kicking has me concerned. I also found that the railing is decorative(?!?!), as in it's just hollow vinyl, screwed into the boards. No support of any kind, no center post, and not even secured into the side of the house. If anyone were to lean against it, they would go quickly rear end over tea kettle and possibly onto or into my window well. Needless to say, I'm looking to fix all of that. Is this something that typically requires a building permit or inspection? It's roughly 3ft off the ground and the landing itself is maybe 4ft by 4ft. It is just the stairs to get into my house from the back door.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2023 15:28
|
|
|
I'm asking because this thread is full of people who Know Stuff. My great-grandfather's sea chest is in Atlanta, Georgia. I want it in Ruraltown, Mendocino County, CA. My brother can crate it up for me. It's roughly the size of the kind of blanket chest that would go at the foot of a bed. What sort of shipping service can/should I hire? There isn't anything fragile in the chest.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 03:52
|
|
|
Motronic posted:What state are you talking about? Municipalities providing metes and bound surveys is basically unheard of. So if that's happening in an entire state somewhere I'd like to know specifically where so I know I'm not giving faulty advice. I don't know about actually doing the surveying, but in terms of records, I know that Massachusetts has some pretty comprehensive online GIS resources at the state and municipal levels; I don't know how legally authoritative it is, but it's useful to be able to overlay (ostensible) property lines on an orthophoto.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 04:09
|
|
|
You can probably find public GIS layers with property lines, but those + an orthophoto layer won’t be accurate enough to settle a fence debate over a few feet of space. The correct way to turn official property records into something you can actually use to settle an argument is to hire a surveyor to come out and physically mark the line on the ground. It is extremely unlikely that your city would send anyone out to do this. Best case scenario is they refer you to a list of local surveyors.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 04:20
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:I'm asking because this thread is full of people who Know Stuff. Courier will be super expensive, so you want a shipper that does LTL service. Most of these companies seem good at dealing with shipper/receiver types that are familiar with the process, but otherwise their customer service sucks. I’ve had good luck with netparcel, which is like Expedia for freight
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 12:29
|
|
|
I have a prefab 8x11 garden shed from Home Depot that I use as winter motorcycle storage and a small tool shed/workshop. It sits on concrete pavers on a bed of compacted gravel. The shed itself is screwed into the pavers with masonry screws and has aluminum rails that cross the floor area of the shed in a # pattern. When we put it in we didn’t think far enough ahead and used pressure treated plywood as the floor, screwed into the aforementioned aluminum rails, which held up admirably for a year but inevitably began to decay after the first winter. It’s now mushy in areas and basically needs to be replaced with a better solution. My immediate thought is that I’d pour some kind of concrete floor in situ over the pavers. The aluminum cross-rails would be permanently embedded in the concrete unless I explicitly try to pour around them or something, but I’m not sure that’s a big issue. This shed isn’t going to get replaced any time soon, and if I ever do I suppose I’ll re-do the entire area anyway, proposed slab and all. Anyway, as with all things, I often find my immediate thought is half-baked and not well thought out. So rather than just heading out to Home Depot to grab a ton of quikrete, empty the shed, tear up the floor and start pouring, I’m checking to see if there’s any other options I should consider. I do need the floor to be fairly hard wearing as I jack up motorcycles or put them on stands etc., so I’m hoping I can get something solid in there before the end of the year but I’ve got time to plan something sensible. I’d love to not actually disassemble the shed to get this done and pour/replace in-situ, but obviously that means I’m basically going to be limited on the depth of pour if I go with quikrete or something. I don’t know if this is an actual problem given it’s already on solid pavers and gravel but at this point I’m fishing. This isn’t really intended to replace the foundation of the shed, just the floor. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Jun 15, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 12:53
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:I'm asking because this thread is full of people who Know Stuff. E: if it fits their size restrictions, FedEx (maybe UPS too) has a thing where you can bring it in and let them pack it and they will insure it. Also post the sea chest! Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Jun 15, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:01
|
|
|
It’s fine to pour over the concrete pavers & rails, but if you want a durable (and code compliant) slab you’ll need a thickness of 4” and for an 8’x11’ slab that’s ~50 80-lb bags. That’s a lotta concrete to pour for someone who i presume is inexperienced with concrete. The biggest issue with not taking the shed down to pour is that you wont be able to build a form for the slab and your access will be limited, which will make leveling/screeding/finishing/jointing very challenging. Not a big deal for an experienced concrete guy but not a recipe for success for a DIYer. If you take the shed down, build a form, rent a concrete mixer and have the concrete bags delivered, I’d rate this 7/10 difficulty. I wouldn’t recommend doing it yourself without taking the shed down. Honeslty it would be smarter to just hire someone (around here I figure it would be ~$2500) but hey, fortune favors the bold. Give it a try if you’re feeling frisky 
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:07
|
|
|
some kinda jackal posted:I have a prefab 8x11 garden shed from Home Depot that I use as winter motorcycle storage and a small tool shed/workshop. I don’t think that pouring a bunch of concrete will a) solve the problem or b) be feasible without moving the shed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:21
|
|
|
You do not want any kind of aluminum embedded in your concrete, it can make the aluminum corrode very quickly and damage the concrete.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:21
|
|
|
Honestly I can’t refute any of that and I do think it probably warrants a proper slab if I’m going to go all out. The only head-scratcher I have is that given the shed has those cross-members I’m not sure how I solve for a floor at that point, unless those cross-members are there solely to bolt a floor onto and can be discarded if that’s not the intent. I don’t THINK they provide any structural stability but maybe I’m crazy. Anyway, it’s good to hear some feedback if only to reinforce that there’s a proper way to do it and hearing some of the downsides makes me pause on a cheep-and-cheerful solution. E: Will check the plywood comment too. I was also surprised at the amount of rot so I’ll have to do a little digging. It’s not mushy everywhere so maybe it was just one bad board? I’m not sure how realistic that is. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Jun 15, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:25
|
|
|
Yeah my biggest take away, without knowing how any of it works, was wait why would pressure treated wood rot after a year? I know some is rated for ground contact and some is not, but still.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:27
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:PT plywood shouldn’t have rotted in one year-are you sure that’s what’s going on? withak posted:You do not want any kind of aluminum embedded in your concrete, it can make the aluminum corrode very quickly and damage the concrete. All of the above seems very very on point. OP, I think you need to start over without some assumptions you've baked in to your initial post. Figure out what is wrong and why it's gone wrong. This is likely to take partial disassembly. Pictures will help get more accurate opinions.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:33
|
|
|
Maybe there’s some way to jack the shed up and optionally pivot it out of the way for a proper pour? 8x11 might be doable with the right equipment.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:38
|
|
|
Sheds are typically delivered on rollbacks (think tow truck), so yeah....it's absolutely possible to get someone back there (again) to move it and put it back.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:41
|
|
|
This is one of those Rubbermaid (I think?) plastic sheds so tbh if I can unbolt it from the pavers (don’t remember if the concrete screws are underneath the walls themselves) I can just lift it out of the way myself if it comes to that. Didn’t mean to oversell the “quality” of this shed. The only reason I’m avoiding disassembling it is that given the plastic nature I’m not sure it’ll go back together if I’m being honest.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:43
|
|
|
withak posted:You do not want any kind of aluminum embedded in your concrete, it can make the aluminum corrode very quickly and damage the concrete. Whoops! Thanks for pointing that out, learned something new today
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:46
|
|
|
some kinda jackal posted:This is one of those Rubbermaid (I think?) plastic sheds so tbh if I can unbolt it from the pavers (don’t remember if the concrete screws are underneath the walls themselves) I can just lift it out of the way myself if it comes to that. If it's only a year old it's unlikely to be a problem. And my guess is that if you take up some or all of the floor you're going to find that they way you installed the pavers, the shed, etc is trapping water under there. Or else is coming in on top of the floor in places. Hard to tell without pictures.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 14:53
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:I'm asking because this thread is full of people who Know Stuff. If you want it to arrive in good shape I would crate it/strap it to a pallet and freight it via whomever is local to the pickup address.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 15:04
|
|
|
withak posted:You can probably find public GIS layers with property lines, but those + an orthophoto layer won’t be accurate enough to settle a fence debate over a few feet of space. The correct way to turn official property records into something you can actually use to settle an argument is to hire a surveyor to come out and physically mark the line on the ground. Another thing to note about GIS systems is they pull data from many places and try to hack together a map that is useful for delivering certain types of information. GIS systems are 100% not survey accurate. An assessors map often has bearings and distances for property lines, but unless you have a reference point to use, that's probably not super useful.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 22:29
|
|
|
I just had a fence installed and the post has rust on it (jfc  ). It's a galvanized stainless steel post. I know how to take the rust off, but how do I prevent it from rusting further. Internet says "paint it", but I'd like to keep the steel look. Is their a clear finish/paint I can put on it that won't look funny/ match the rest of the chain link fence?
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2023 03:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 22:09 |
|
|
ninjoatse.cx posted:I just had a fence installed and the post has rust on it (jfc There are "cold galvanizing" sprays made to look close but nothing will look exact. ZRC, loctite, rustoleum. some are called cold galvanizing compound, some cold galvanizing paint.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2023 03:33
|
|
