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Arcsech posted:Sovol got me for an SV06 Plus, as they’ve got a deal where you get a 10kg variety pack of their filament for free if you buy one. That’s like $200 of filament free with a $350 printer that’s pretty decently priced to start with. The regular SV06 runs so smooth and prints so quick with Klipper I’m hyped to see this thing slam out huge prints. gently caress I just got 2 new printers in 2 weeks, bringing me to a total of 5 I want to pull the trigger on this but that's real hard to justify
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Jun 21, 2023 19:46
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At this point i can't see getting anything but a Bamboo unless they prove to be scooby do level villain's and the mask is removed. Sovol solves the issues that the ender had both at a much cheaper price point then a prussia. But me, sitting on 1, possibly 2 vorons and an ender really -really- need to stop myself from buying a bamboo for the 'it just works' factor.
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Jun 21, 2023 19:54
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Roundboy posted:At this point i can't see getting anything but a Bamboo unless they prove to be scooby do level villain's and the mask is removed. Sovol solves the issues that the ender had both at a much cheaper price point then a prussia. But me, sitting on 1, possibly 2 vorons and an ender really -really- need to stop myself from buying a bamboo for the 'it just works' factor. Right now I only have the space for one printer (an X1C), and I'm only printing for myself, so I can't yet justify more. But I keep looking at Vorons and other printers and going back to, "No, I'll just get a P1P when I'm ready to expand." The only possible exceptions would be a particularly cheap V0.2 kit or if I need something really big, like I'm still eyeing the 500mm Ratrig or modding one of those absurdly large Tronxy printers.
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Jun 21, 2023 19:59
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I want to get rid of my 350 Voron for a X1C. I think the nerd/tinker factor of building the thing from scratch, upgrading it, tuning it/etc has worn off and watching my P1P print 24+ hour prints with hundreds of filament swaps and not skipping a beat, I'm kinda over the Voron.
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Jun 21, 2023 20:27
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I just learned this morning that Micro Center will be carrying the Bambu Labs X1C with AMS. This is dangerous knowledge to me... https://www.microcenter.com/product/667416/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-combo-3d-printer
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Jun 21, 2023 20:35
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So, I am having a little bit of an under extrusion issue on a Neptune 3 Pro. The issue only seems to be at seams/corners/starting point for layers, but does not exist throughout the entire print. I have tried the fixes below, one at a time, and still have the issue appear the exact same on the print. What I have done is : Calibrate E-steps. E steps were a little low, but this didn't seem to have any effect on this particular under extrusion. Add a small amount of extra prime after retraction. Adjust retraction speed and length. Print at the higher temperature range of my printer. Slightly increase the amount of travel without retraction maximum distance. What I am printing is mostly houses/furniture/articulating print in place things. The under extrusion always seems to be after a travel or retraction, but not every retraction. I have a few guesses as to what would be causing this issue, but am looking for input on what and how to change. Combing Mode --> I suspect this might be impacting things, I have this on the default, but should I change it? Seem Hiding --> This one is very interesting.... the Cura profile for the Neptune 3 Pro had custom seem hiding selected and had a weird -140 Y value or something. I am not sure how that works so I have it set to smart Hiding. Maybe I need to change this? I also think the suggested manual hide value position was causing another problem: I had some prints that randomly stopped mid print and the interface didn't say anything at all, like print complete or print failed, it just booted back to the start. I think what was happening is that the printer extruder was like getting stuck in the lower corner because it was trying to go to the place the manual seam location indicated and got stuck and overheated and tripped the unit out on overtemp. But I am not super sure about that. Anyway, don't have pictures right now, but can take some when I get home in a few hours.
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Jun 21, 2023 20:40
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A couple weeks ago, I ordered a replacement heatsink, heat break, heater block, thermistor, heater cartridge that came with a silicon sock and all the screws and wired up and crimped with the connectors and all for my Neptune 3 Pro and such from a totally non-legit seller and to my surprise it actually arrived today. Is there any reason Elegoo doesn't sell replacement parts directly?
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Jun 22, 2023 00:01
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Elegoo seems to be more interested in shipping parts out for free under their warranty. It's weird but I'm not complaining yet.
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Jun 22, 2023 00:09
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BlackIronHeart posted:Elegoo seems to be more interested in shipping parts out for free under their warranty. It's weird but I'm not complaining yet. Yeah I contacted them and they're supposed to be sending me one for free as well but it hasn't arrived yet.
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Jun 22, 2023 00:12
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mattfl posted:I want to get rid of my 350 Voron for a X1C. I think the nerd/tinker factor of building the thing from scratch, upgrading it, tuning it/etc has worn off and watching my P1P print 24+ hour prints with hundreds of filament swaps and not skipping a beat, I'm kinda over the Voron. I'm likely grabbing a friend's voron kit over the weekend, because I do like the building aspect. I don't -need- to print back to back quickly, as it's still a hobby for me. Any unreliable issues are mine to fix and while I get frustrated, I'm really learning the end to end aspect of troubleshooting Hell I might leave one stock and the other will be a testbed for more reliability. The first step seems to be dropping belts and going steel rods.
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Jun 22, 2023 00:17
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Well good news is I got my voron printing consistantly last night. I installed the latest prusaslicer and just let it go with the most basic of default settings. It's printing but incredibly slow, but at least it's printing and I can start tweaking the speed up now. And my high flow revo nozzle comes in today so I can throw that in and hopefully bump the speeds up quite a bit. Baby steps. Meanwhile my P1P is on hour 19 of a 22 hour print and just zipping along next to it lol
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Jun 22, 2023 12:09
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Stop. I resolve to get one if I ever make money printing Using the tuning guide, I had to make a lot of changes for prussiaslicer since the flow percentages are based on layer, not nozzle height  . I have to calculate all of the widths in myTuning is going to be a bit slower, but aside from that and so e fan speed macros we are ready to be a work horse again Edit: I really want to print that NASA chainmail Roundboy fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Jun 22, 2023 |
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Jun 22, 2023 12:35
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mattfl posted:Well good news is I got my voron printing consistantly last night. I installed the latest prusaslicer and just let it go with the most basic of default settings. I could get a P1P for PLA and use the voron for ABS... but I really don't have enough stuff to print to be worth it.
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Jun 22, 2023 13:15
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ilkhan posted:Which size HF nozzle? I've got a 0.6 and a 1.0 for high flows but haven't touched the 1.0 yet. The 0.6HF is doing great. Just went with the standard .4 That’s basically my setup, P1P for PLA and Voron for ABS.
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Jun 22, 2023 13:35
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IncredibleIgloo posted:So, I am having a little bit of an under extrusion issue on a Neptune 3 Pro. Phone posting, but my best guesses are either a partially clogged nozzle (especially if you have been using it for a while) Or you need to adjust the... pressure advance? I'm phone posting right now and I can't remember if that's the right term lol Check the Andrew Ellis(?) guide, it has instructions on how to figure that out.
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Jun 22, 2023 14:54
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Is it foolish to slap a 0.2mm volcano nozzle on my Kobra max? It's been sitting my my garage unused for a bit, and I'm looking at using it for big art pieces using hueforge. I find with the 0.6mm nozzle I have on it now for generalist printing it can get a little stringy/messy, but I'm not sure how much of that is my settings, or the volcano... I'd love to get this thing optimized as much as possible, because the idea of doing big 400x400 art prints sounds amazing, but I need the surface finish to pretty much be perfect with it dripping filament everywhere
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Jun 22, 2023 15:54
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 I guess I'm one of those guys now
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Jun 22, 2023 16:39
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Sockser posted:
Neat! Is it full-scale? Does it fit on your head? What'd you print it with/in?
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Jun 22, 2023 16:41
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WhiteHowler posted:Neat! Is it full-scale? Does it fit on your head? What'd you print it with/in? it is approximately full scale for my gigantic noggin with some spare room for electronics All printed in polymaker PLA pro- this poo poo fuckin owns bones for strength and it sands like a dream, it's worth the $5 upcharge over standard PLA and it isn't finnicky to print like PETG/ABS/ASA Knocked it all out in a day and a half by splitting the job between a Prusa MK3, Prusa MK4, Prusa Mini, Neptune3 Max, and my Ankermake tried to make some parts but god drat if that thing ain't just a piece of poo poo I haven't / can't really try on the whole thing just yet, because the pieces largely get held together with mechanical linkages that open the faceplate and jaw, and I can't do that until I have servos installed, which is pending me getting a control board ready to go. I've been dreaming about printing full helmets for a while, but printing in chunks and welding the parts together totally loving sucks, and none of my printers were big enough for anything like this, which is why I got the Neptune Max. I paid a weird makerspace for a full headscan last summer with the full intention of using it for scaling helmets, and it worked ... relatively well for my first go here. Pulled my head into prusaslicer, pulled the helmet into prusaslicer, got the model scaled at what looked about right at 102%, aaaaaaand then once I got the neck piece off the printer it didn't fit at all and I had to scale all the way up to 115% (I probably could've gotten away with 110 or so if not for electronics space)   (I am excited to spend 3kg of filament printing a full bust of my head as one big piece on the Max some time in the nearish future) I also printed these immediately after getting the max-- the Iron Man helmet kinda sucks- hence the newer one I posted (and it turns out a lot of the prop models from Nikko industries aren't all that friendly towards printing!) but the Power Ranger helmet is pretty great and I'm excited to get it finished  
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Jun 22, 2023 18:04
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Sockser posted:I paid a weird makerspace for a full headscan last summer with the full intention of using it for scaling helmets, and it worked ... relatively well for my first go here. Pulled my head into prusaslicer, pulled the helmet into prusaslicer, got the model scaled at what looked about right at 102%, aaaaaaand then once I got the neck piece off the printer it didn't fit at all and I had to scale all the way up to 115% (I probably could've gotten away with 110 or so if not for electronics space) drat it full head 3d scan, you had ONE job! 
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Jun 22, 2023 18:29
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The Eyes Have It posted:drat it full head 3d scan, you had ONE job! Having long hair and big ears definitely causes some problems there, like "how much can I tolerate my ears folding back inside this helmet" I might try to get wig capped up and go get another scan, maybe a full body scan so I can inch slowly closer towards doing a full Iron Man suit
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Jun 22, 2023 20:11
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I did a big stupid and one of my PEI sheets got hosed up before I noticed, leaving a chunk of it missing the PEI coating. Does that matter if I’m glue-sticking it for a print anyway? I mean I could just try it and see, but maybe someone can save me 15 minutes and some filament.
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Jun 23, 2023 15:12
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You can keep using it as long as you don't print over that area. You can print over that area too, but the pothole means the filament won't stick properly there.
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Jun 23, 2023 17:23
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If it's a magnetic sheet, you may be able to use the back side even if it's not PEI since you're using a glue stick. I have absolutely never once in my life done that completely by accident and still have everything stick just fine. Might be an acceptable stopgap until you can get a new sheet.
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Jun 23, 2023 18:10
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My HF Revo nozzle and 60w heater came in today AND I get off work early. edit: and they sent me the standard flow and not the HF Fuuuuuucking damnit
mattfl fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Jun 23, 2023 |
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Jun 23, 2023 18:12
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Huh, I did not expect to see a jam look like this.
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Jun 23, 2023 20:06
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BlackIronHeart posted:Huh, I did not expect to see a jam look like this. I had TPU jam as a neat little knot once. It would have been really neat if that knot wasn't also wrapped around the extruder gear and required me to pull the topend completely apart to get it out.
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Jun 23, 2023 20:26
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mattfl posted:My HF Revo nozzle and 60w heater came in today AND I get off work early.
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Jun 23, 2023 22:05
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ilkhan posted:They look almost the same, no ring around the nozzle tip? Nope, no ring and underneath the rubber ring around the nozzle it should be engraved with a HF marking and it is not. They've confirmed (over facebook messenger) that they sent the wrong one but when asked what they are gonna do it's been over an hour and no response yet.
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Jun 23, 2023 22:38
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Finally had time to get the wires sorted on the ender 3v2 after my board swap. Everything is in its place according to the diagrams, it's all tight and snug, but no motors are moving. I tried to Google it but apparently the ender subreddits are still protesting and surprising nobody they're the top results. Does anyone know what I should do?
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Jun 23, 2023 23:22
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mattfl posted:Nope, no ring and underneath the rubber ring around the nozzle it should be engraved with a HF marking and it is not. They've confirmed (over facebook messenger) that they sent the wrong one but when asked what they are gonna do it's been over an hour and no response yet.
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Jun 23, 2023 23:29
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Bondematt posted:I had TPU jam as a neat little knot once. I had to mostly disassemble my hot end to get this bugger out. The heatsink/brake/block/nozzle is all mostly one piece that comes out when you remove two bolts from the heat sink (after removing the breakout board and head shroud with its fans) and then I had to push the filament out. Just unsure how it was caused, this is normal PLA and I haven't encountered this issue before.
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Jun 23, 2023 23:48
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ilkhan posted:Welp. That sucks. Who is the vendor? kb3d
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Jun 23, 2023 23:49
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Len posted:Finally had time to get the wires sorted on the ender 3v2 after my board swap. Everything is in its place according to the diagrams, it's all tight and snug, but no motors are moving.
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Jun 24, 2023 00:13
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RabbitWizard posted:Is you printer connected via USB? If it is, my money is on the board not receiving 24V. The 5V via USB is enough to power everything but the motors just fine. This can be as simple as an unplugged power supply. It's not, it's connected to the regular ender 3 psu
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Jun 24, 2023 01:21
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mattfl posted:kb3d
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Jun 24, 2023 02:10
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Len posted:It's not, it's connected to the regular ender 3 psu Len posted:no motors are moving. The following may not help at all, but as you aren't getting swamped with suggestions... I don't know much about the board, like, is the fuse responsible for the whole workings or mayyyybe just the motors? Google gives me nothing. Maybe check it anyway?  You mentioned you had a multimeter and don't know how to use it, but this one could/should/would be easy.One of the cables with the metal prongs gets plugged into the COM-port of the multimeter. It doesn't say COM? If there are multiple socket, one has a different color than the others, black in 99% of multimeters. The black cable goes in there. The red cable goes into the one with (either/both of) this symbol  Can't find it? Use the one that doesn't have an "A" next to it. It will probably be the one with the most symbols next to it. Now turn the dial to the symbol from the picture (no dial, press button with it). You have both symbold, but on different dial positions? Select the "wifi" one. If you touch the metal prongs together, your multimeter should now make a sound, show a light or displays some numbers. Now you can take the fuse out of the board and put the metal prongs on the ends. If you get sound/light/numbers again, the fuse is fine! Nearly forgot, the fuse looks like one of these (no idea if there were board revision where it got changed from one to the other kind)   If all of this is too much, no worries. But you might want to get comfortable with the multimeter anyway if you don't plan on just ordering a new board.
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Jun 24, 2023 02:33
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To add to the above post, what you are really doing is checking for continuity through the fuse. If you remove the fuse you can also use the resistance function and verify that the resistance of the fuse is very close to 0, like within hundredths to thousandths or more. Until you are more comfortable with your meter do not use it while what you are measuring is energized. Pretty much just use it to verify resistances with the power off until you get more comfortable with the tool. The upside down Ultramarine signal, Omega, is the resistance feature. This will give you resistance in Ohms. The line with the triangle is used for testing the bias of a diode. It makes a sound when current can pass through the diode when the diode is biased correctly. This also can be used to make a chime on any electrical short, such as testing if a fuse is good. IncredibleIgloo fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jun 24, 2023 |
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Jun 24, 2023 02:45
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RabbitWizard posted:Ok. They're doing nothing at all, no whirs or sounds or motion in any way
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Jun 24, 2023 02:45
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IncredibleIgloo posted:The upside down Ultramarine signal, Omega, is the resistance feature. Goddamn, this is such an appropriate but nerdy explanation. Someone take this nerds lunch money already.
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Jun 24, 2023 02:52
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