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PainterofCrap posted:Buy the heaviest can. The more solids, the more complete coating Yeah. Lead is heavy. Therefore get some lead paint. I hear it's delicious too.
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Jun 24, 2023 00:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Paint in general is a "you get what you pay for" situation. Cheap paint sucks. What he said. Paint is one of those things where, if you put a dollar value on your time spent, you'll come out cheaper if you buy the more expensive stuff. You'll finish in fewer coats, saving time.
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Jun 24, 2023 03:01
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If you are not set on color can go to Sherwin Williams or wtvr is near you and see if they have any (can't remember what they call it) but paint they made for someone but they didn't pick it up or changed their mind. Can often get it for dollars a gallon.
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Jun 24, 2023 03:13
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I'm working on making a hitbox, basically an arcade game controller for home gaming. My plan was to use a nice piece of Japanese Maple wood that I've been saving, but I've discovered a problem: it's not really thick enough. The buttons I want to use would only just barely fit inside of the thickness of the board, with about .1" to spare. Here I'm holding a button up against the wood I want to use: I bought a wiring harness before I realized this; it's basically just a collection of wires to make the assembly more plug-and-play. Of course, it increases the amount of space needed even more:  I foolishly bought exactly enough buttons to make the controller, so I don't have spares to experiment on. As I see it, I have three main options, which I may need to combine together: 1. bend the prongs on the buttons. 2. solder wires to the prongs on the buttons, instead of using the wiring harness. (I could cut one end off of the harness wires and still use the other end as intended). This would buy space by letting me connect the wires at 90 degrees; there's holes in the prongs that should make soldering easier. 3. add a board to the bottom of the wood, to buy me some extra space to work Option 3 is aesthetically displeasing, and gets worse the thicker the board is. Option 1 is a little concerning, mostly because if I break the prongs then I'm down a button and will have to order more. I'm not the world's greatest at electrical soldering, but I should be able to handle it. Heck, I should be able to just wrap wire through and around the prong and then glob some solder on and it'd suffice. Any suggestions or advice?
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Jun 24, 2023 04:52
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How will wires reach the buttons if they are completely covered in a hole?
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Jun 24, 2023 06:56
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Gripweed posted:I would just like to point out. Over the course of this discussion the addition you guys have been wanting me to put on the wall has gone from 1/8th of an inch to 1/4 of an inch to 3/8th of an inch to 3/8th of an inch suspended half an inch away from the original wall. I am not a fool. I see what's going on here. You people are trying to crush me.
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Jun 24, 2023 07:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:3. add a board to the bottom of the wood, to buy me some extra space to work I don't understand the aesthetic concern with option 3 because I don't understand how the side of the board will be exposed in the final product. Is the board just supposed to contain the buttons in itself, or is it the face of a box? If it's the face of a box just glue a sheet of mdf to it. If the board is supposed to contain the buttons then I think you've got 2 aesthetically acceptable options. 1. MDF with edge banding, probabyl black. Or 2. get another board in a highly contrasting wood. Contrast looks way better than a slight mismatch.
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Jun 24, 2023 07:38
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actionjackson posted:benjamin moore ben crew
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Jun 24, 2023 11:58
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Sherwin Williams or bust
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Jun 24, 2023 12:40
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kid sinister posted:How will wires reach the buttons if they are completely covered in a hole? The original plan was basically: 1. Hog out a central area in the back of the board, where the circuit board that connects to all of the buttons would go. 2. Drill horizontal holes from the central area to where all of the buttons go, to run wires through. 3. Drill stopped holes (i.e. don't penetrate through the back) through the face of the board, that the buttons would fit into. 4. Wire up all of the buttons, then insert them into their holes. 5. Fit a panel over the central area, secured with countersunk screws. The net result would be, in appearance, just a double-live-edge board with buttons on one side and a small panel on the other side. But I don't see any way to achieve that level of cleanness given the size of the buttons I have to work with. I'd need a thicker board, thinner buttons, or an aesthetic compromise, I think. EDIT: to clarify, the panel on the underside would not cover all of the buttons, mostly because I want to put buttons out to the sides of the board, and don't want to remove a huge amount of material. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Jun 24, 2023 |
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Jun 24, 2023 14:37
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The Seimitsu PS-15 is recommended as a shallow arcade button.
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Jun 24, 2023 15:17
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Recommendations on how to de-stink a fridge?
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Jun 24, 2023 15:36
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Vim Fuego posted:The Seimitsu PS-15 is recommended as a shallow arcade button. Ooh, that could work well, thank you! Since I've already purchased these (Sanwa Denshi) buttons, I'll try to make them work by bending the prongs and soldering instead of using the harness...but it's good to know that I have a reasonable backup option.
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Jun 24, 2023 16:38
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Which side of my workbench should I attach the vice to? I’m right handed and there’s plenty of room on either side. I’m leaning towards the right side, but I’m not sure if this is decision that more experienced people would immediately recognize the answer to.
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Jun 24, 2023 19:13
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DNK posted:Which side of my workbench should I attach the vice to? I’m right handed and there’s plenty of room on either side. It depends on your vice. For example, you should not attach alcohol directly to your workbench at all.
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Jun 24, 2023 21:44
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Recommendations on how to de-stink a fridge? Stick an open box of baking soda in there. When was the last time you cleaned it?
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Jun 25, 2023 00:40
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kid sinister posted:Stick an open box of baking soda in there. When was the last time you cleaned it? New house, new (to us) fridge. Someone else’s stink. I’ve gutted it down to the coils, washed with bleach, 30% acetic acid, and baking soda solution. The stink is embedded in all lubricants, the plastic, and the styrofoam air channels. Right now I’ve got stuff sitting in sunlight covered with baking soda. I’ve tried to remove all silicone grease, and I’ve sprayed the coils multiple times. If I can’t get this out I might have to sell this fridge. It’s only like two or three years old at most, but the previous owners apparently had a power outage and just let poo poo rot in there. e: for clarity, I did not bleach then vinegar and inhale deeply.. Thorough soakings in between, each an unsuccessful attempt at removing stink.
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Jun 25, 2023 01:26
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actionjackson posted:here is a video of that noise. honestly it's not very loud at all, you have to turn up the volume all the way on this to hear it. it's immediately after the click It's possible one of the relays in the thermostat is failing in very particular way
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Jun 25, 2023 14:28
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DNK posted:Which side of my workbench should I attach the vice to? I’m right handed and there’s plenty of room on either side. Right-hand side, so you can hold the workpiece with your left hand and tighten the vise with your right by free-wheeling the handle.
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Jun 25, 2023 17:22
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Dr. Lunchables posted:New house, new (to us) fridge. Someone else’s stink. I’ve gutted it down to the coils, washed with bleach, 30% acetic acid, and baking soda solution. The stink is embedded in all lubricants, the plastic, and the styrofoam air channels. Right now I’ve got stuff sitting in sunlight covered with baking soda. I’ve tried to remove all silicone grease, and I’ve sprayed the coils multiple times. That sounds like new fridge time to me
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Jun 25, 2023 19:32
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It’s like a $2500 fridge.  Why don’t people clean their stuff? It just takes a few minutes…
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Jun 26, 2023 00:11
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I've got a door frame in my house that has a bit of a slope leading up to it, and a bar across the top that I don't understand. It's between kitchen and living room, which are both L shaped and so a bit awkward, and a standard door folding out into the living room wouldn't work for how I need some furniture set up. So I'm pretty sure I want either a sliding or folding door. But I have no idea how to find out what sort of door will actually work in the space and don't want to spend £280 on something that won't go! Who advises you on this sort of stuff? It feels like a carpenter/handyman will just quote me for installing one or the other option, when what I need is to understand the appropriate door for a weird frame/space.
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Jun 27, 2023 07:46
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Measure the frame on all sides, if it’s not perfectly square +/- 1-2cm it’ll be a bit tricky to install a sliding or bifold door. If you have the space, the easy option is to do the much maligned “barn door” .. perfect for out-of-square frames, hence their popularity with remodeled/rehabbed houses The bar on top might be a track left over from a previously-installed bifold door, hard to tell. Anyways, if you’re still unsure a carpenter ought to be able to take a look and advise your on your options
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Jun 27, 2023 12:30
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Bollock Monkey posted:I've got a door frame in my house that has a bit of a slope leading up to it, and a bar across the top that I don't understand. Hard to tell from the pictures, but yeah like ukjeff said, talk to a couple different carpenters and ask for a few options. They should be able to give you some ideas. That wall seems a bit thicker than a regular stud wall (which in the US are roughly 4-1/2" accounting for 1/2 drywall - idk about across the pond). Was it an exterior wall at one point with an addition put on? Could possibly be left over from some weird form of weatherstripping. It's hard to tell what it is. One thing I've learned from my years of working on houses, is that people get really weird ideas on how to fix things and you can end up finding some crazy stuff. And, particularly with older houses, there's often some weird niche thing that was common in 1940's houses but which hasn't been seen in 50 years.
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Jun 27, 2023 22:37
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My house was built in 1930, and we bought it from the son of the original owner. In the basement, it had several carbon tetrachloride globes mounted in wire frames screwed into the floor joists. The dryer was vented into the basement to supply 'supplemental heat.' The only grounded receptacles were in the kitchen. The wiring was a blend of knob & tube and romex, work done by some magician in 1974. Its been a fun ride.
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Jun 28, 2023 02:47
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PainterofCrap posted:My house was built in 1930, and we bought it from the son of the original owner. In the basement, it had several carbon tetrachloride globes mounted in wire frames screwed into the floor joists. drat, you have fire grenades? That’s pretty neat. I’m currently renting (and moving out of in a month, thank god) a 130 year old house and this place is a Frankenstein of cheap fixes and lovely half assery
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Jun 28, 2023 03:29
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As a last resort, before throwing that fridge out, you know the answer, say it with me: Liquinox (or maybe even Tergazyme)
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Jun 28, 2023 04:41
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You could try and bomb the fridge with chlorine gas: ODOR-CLO2 Chlorine Dioxide Odor Removal https://a.co/d/fRvd7eG Just make sure you’re not in the house when you do it and give plenty of time for the fumes to go away or you will kill yourself. I made the mistake of using too small of a container and underestimating the violence of the chemical reaction. The water boiled over the side and made a big mess and I had to fix it real quick while closing my eyes and holding my breath. I thought I was gonna die.
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Jun 28, 2023 12:19
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Not 100% sure this is the place to ask, but I have a power cable (3 pin psu cable) where the outer shielding has come away at the connector end, so the more flexible inner coloured cables can be seen, so it's quite loose at the end. Is it still safe to use, and is it more susceptible to water damage (I actually use it to power a cheap kettle element from aliexpress, liquid shouldnt get on it but its more of a risk)?
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Jun 28, 2023 15:52
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zhar posted:Not 100% sure this is the place to ask, but I have a power cable (3 pin psu cable) where the outer shielding has come away at the connector end, so the more flexible inner coloured cables can be seen, so it's quite loose at the end. Is it still safe to use, and is it more susceptible to water damage (I actually use it to power a cheap kettle element from aliexpress, liquid shouldnt get on it but its more of a risk)? Do you know anyone who works in IT or some similar profession? If so they almost certainly have like a dozen spare cables laying around and would be happy to part with one, I wouldn't risk it just for that.
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Jun 28, 2023 18:00
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I would pitch it into my bin of cut up cables for projects and get another, just because C13 power cords are everywhere and are bordering on "free". There's no reason to use one that's been compromised even if it doesn't currently have any exposed wire.
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Jun 28, 2023 18:00
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I'm not attached to it or anything but curious as to whether it's more vulnerable to sudden breakage (eg if one of the wires gets loose) or represents an actual safety risk like fire. I'd rather not waste if the former though I suppose, free alternative or not. I just don't know enough about electrics to know what the outcome is if a wire becomes loose but not completely severed or water seeps into where there wires terminate etc.
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Jun 28, 2023 19:24
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if you have to make two posts about whether or not a wire is safe it isnt
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Jun 28, 2023 19:34
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the insulation on the outside pulling away indicates some kind of damage but we don't know what. Maybe it means the connections are loose or maybe it doesn't. the safe thing for us to recommend is to replace it, but if you'd like to take a knife to it and dissect the connector and take photos so we can actually see what's going on, someone might be able to recommend just restoring the insulation wrap with heatshrink or similar, or perhaps notzhar posted:I just don't know enough about electrics to know what the outcome is if a wire becomes loose but not completely severed or water seeps into where there wires terminate etc.
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Jun 28, 2023 19:36
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Deviant posted:if you have to make two posts about whether or not a wire is safe
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Jun 28, 2023 19:45
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Do what gramps would've done: electrical tape the gently caress out of it then go have a glass of whiskey
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Jun 28, 2023 20:13
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I think the above post would be fine but I have a spare european(?) one with a universal adapter it turns out so I dont need to do anything to replace it. In all honesty I probably would have assumed it was fine and blithely continued using it even without electrical tape had it not been for another cable in the same draw with a label on that said "The plug severed from the mains lead must be destroyed, as a plug with bared flexible cord is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet", which seems common on product warning sheets from a quick google. I don't understand what it even means, are the wires I can see "bared flexible cord" or is that one deeper if those got severed. Why would anyone use a completely severed plug in a live socket outlet even if it hadn't been further destroyed? Seems a little excessive, my instinct would be to chuck it in the bin rather than bringing out the hammer.
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Jun 28, 2023 21:01
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if it's even remotely possible for some dumbfuck to plug something in and kill themselves, you can be assured that at least one and probably a dozen or more people managed to do it some time in the last century. So absolutely someone took a severed plug and plugged it in, possibly while holding the exposed end of the cord, or perhaps after trying to graft it to another cord using masking tape and paper clips but also won't someone think of the children is a thing too, sockets are at toddler height and they can be curious
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Jun 29, 2023 04:54
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space uncle posted:You could try and bomb the fridge with chlorine gas: 
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Jun 29, 2023 18:33
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I made a coffee table from one of those butcher block slabs and some pipes+flanges. It’s still goin strong, though it’s pretty rough and amateurish work. I’m gonna be moving soon, and the new apartment has some really nice hardwood floors that I don’t want to damage. I’ve been thinking about how to handle the table’s feet. Right now there’s just some cork coasters under them:  (yeah yeah dirty goon rug whatever. my cat has puked on this thing so goddamn much i’m replacing it right as i move anyway) But as you can see, they tend to crumble away. I don’t want to leave the flanges exposed either, because not only will it damage the hardwood floor, metal also tends to rust and stain. Which I need a solution to as well. What options do I have for this table’s feet? Ideally, some sort of wide, textured rubber would make me feel better about putting the table on a rug. (Probably a bad idea to put it directly on wood.) Maybe as a replacement for the flanges themselves?
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Jul 2, 2023 19:34
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