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mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

ilkhan posted:

Don't think I've bought anything from them. Guess that will continue.

They finally got back to me this morning and are sending the correct one. I guess they are out of town at the Midwest reprap fest which caused the delay in response.

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Opinionated
May 29, 2002



Ultra posted:

Still trying to figure out the right key words for midjourney that will create something that looks good in HueForge, and will print correctly.

Nice space kitty!

Did this print with hueforge of my pup who just passed from cancer.



Didn't come out perfect but not bad either

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Looks like a nice print! My condolences.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Opinionated posted:

Nice space kitty!

Did this print with hueforge of my pup who just passed from cancer.



Didn't come out perfect but not bad either

10/10 Imo, good job. sorry about dog, that Sucks

Test print with hueforge.... I really need to order some fancy pla. My bambu does not like petg

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Jun 25, 2023

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I got my voron back up and running perfectly, and I have been cranking up speeds and accel and I'm shaking like a champ.

I found a 2*2 80# concrete block, and plywood with foam core on it that will serve as the basis for my new base, and once I finish printing new parts for upgrades, I'm starting on multi material. That hueforge stuff looks too awesome

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug
I finally fixed the issues with bad first layers on my Neptune 3, but goddamn it took me a long time to get there.

The actual issue was two of the V-rollers on the bed had grooves worn into their rubber from over-tightening.
Those grooves meant that there was always some degree of play in the bed, which then caused issues with the auto leveling.
The auto leveling would be incorrect, cause it uses a strain gauge to press into the bed. But with the slight play in the bed, the strain gauge would always detect the bed to be lower than it actually was, by varying amounts.

So in the end I disassembled the bed, replaced the V-rollers, very carefully tightened them, then started calibrating.
And hey it worked. The auto leveling results show that my bed is flatter than it's ever been, with the worst point only being 0.09mm off.

Injuryprone
Sep 26, 2007

Speak up, there's something in my ear.

Does anyone know why the Elegoo Saturn 2 costs more than the Saturn 3?

snail
Sep 25, 2008

CHEESE!

w00tmonger posted:

My bambu does not like petg

I used to think that about my Bambu, but properly drying the PETG and it's producing very clean parts for a Stagetop with no effort from me. If the filament was at all wet I struggled to get good prints.

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:

Injuryprone posted:

Does anyone know why the Elegoo Saturn 2 costs more than the Saturn 3?

I suspect the regular prices for them, Anycubic, and Creality at least are completely meaningless/not particularly well curated because of how there's some "flash" sale or other major discount or whatever going on with them basically 24/7. I notice also that the Saturn 2 in particular won some best printer ever for last year award so maybe makers/factories/schools/whatever (it's that time of year) that are replacing or ordering a new fleet of printers and everyone bought lots of Saturn 2 at once. So I always took the standard price as a "here's what's reasonable for us to list it at to act like this is a Very Expensive Product so people think they're getting a deal even though we're fluctuating the price constantly based on the market"

Neo Rasa fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Jun 26, 2023

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

snail posted:

I used to think that about my Bambu, but properly drying the PETG and it's producing very clean parts for a Stagetop with no effort from me. If the filament was at all wet I struggled to get good prints.

Not that I've dryed it recently but would o be seeng petg issues on my other printers if that was the case?

ephori
Sep 1, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

w00tmonger posted:

10/10 Imo, good job. sorry about dog, that Sucks

Test print with hueforge.... I really need to order some fancy pla. My bambu does not like petg



This is cool as gently caress.

snail
Sep 25, 2008

CHEESE!

w00tmonger posted:

Not that I've dryed it recently but would o be seeng petg issues on my other printers if that was the case?

Maybe. The same PETG printed "fine" on other slower printers, the only thing I could connect was choosing to dry it.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

BambuLabs has an anniversary sale going on and the P1P is discounted $100, that is a pretty drat good deal for that printer.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.

mattfl posted:

BambuLabs has an anniversary sale going on and the P1P is discounted $100, that is a pretty drat good deal for that printer.

I’ve been thinking of upgrading from my old Ender 3 for a while, might be a good time to do it. Anyone have opinions on if the P1P is worth the premium over a Neptune?

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Toebone posted:

I’ve been thinking of upgrading from my old Ender 3 for a while, might be a good time to do it. Anyone have opinions on if the P1P is worth the premium over a Neptune?

Yes, it is.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Toebone posted:

I’ve been thinking of upgrading from my old Ender 3 for a while, might be a good time to do it. Anyone have opinions on if the P1P is worth the premium over a Neptune?

There's really no comparing a Bambu to any budget bed slinger. It's a wholly different class of machine, and they seem almost too good to be true until you actually watch one run in person.

I bought a second AMS for my P1P just this morning, and although I probably shouldn't, I might end up buying another P1P at that sale price before the day is out.

Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jun 26, 2023

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Acid Reflux posted:


I bought a second AMS for my P1P just this morning, and although I probably shouldn't, I might end up buying another P1P at that sale price before the day is out.

Did you use the $50 off coupon they've been sending out today on that AMS?

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
What is the slicing/printing workflow like for the P1P/X1C? Does it rely on any cloud services? I believe I read it doesn't work with octoprint but that's probably a very small price to pay.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

mattfl posted:

Did you use the $50 off coupon they've been sending out today on that AMS?
No, they started posting about that several hours after I put my order in. *sigh* I'm going to email them if a coupon does show up in my inbox and see if they'll credit me, but it's really OK if that doesn't work out. I was buying it anyway.

I was just discussing another P1P with the lady of the house, and she asked why I hadn't ordered it yet, so I guess I'm gonna go do that right now LOL

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

Tremors posted:

What is the slicing/printing workflow like for the P1P/X1C? Does it rely on any cloud services? I believe I read it doesn't work with octoprint but that's probably a very small price to pay.

You use Bambu Slicer or Orca Slicer to slice locally on your pc, it's a fork of Prusaslicer, so other than some UI changes a lot will be familiar if you're used to PS.
The default behavior is that sliced models go from your pc, to the cloud, to the printer, but you can kick the printer over to 'lan' mode where it'll behave similar to an Octoprint equivalent and you just chuck jobs at it directly.
Or you can transfer stuff to it with a microSD card, too. But lan mode is a decent middle ground if you just want to avoid them having your gcode at any step of the way.

It doesn't support Octoprint but it's got stuff like internal cam and network file transfer built in. (You can use Bambu/Orca slicer on pc to check on it and send it commands, or do so with the app on your phone.)
Weirdly enough, despite being a network-enabled printer by default, it does not have an ethernet port.

The workflow is pretty much.
Slap model into slicer, tweak, press print, wait a few seconds for it to transfer to the printer. You get the option of just transferring the print, or printing directly. (In case you have something you have something you print often and want it saved to the sdcard.)
The flow is basically the same as when I used Fluidd/probably similar to Octoprint, other than not having a raspberry pi that can turn the printer on when jobs get queued up.

SubNat fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Jun 26, 2023

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Someone wrote an effortpost about what it takes to make a p1p capable of abs, etc printing


Enclosure
Hotend?
??

I think it was cheaper in parts then the x1c and even more so now with the discount and the fact they include the camera now. I don't care about the local display.

This is really, really tempting

Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJJQF3TQ/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams

Anyone familiar with the Creality Halot-One? I had a FDM printer forever ago and was thinking of grabbing an Ender 3 buuuut

Use case would be making knockoff tanks and terrain for Battletech. I have a wooden cabinet / desk enclosure that would keep any printer I get isolated.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Sockser posted:



I guess I'm one of those guys now

https://i.imgur.com/emjhr0n.mp4


Anyway I've learned a fair bit and I think it's time to scrap it and start over, as 3d print projects always go

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

:obama:

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Always has been.

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:

Revvik posted:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJJQF3TQ/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams

Anyone familiar with the Creality Halot-One? I had a FDM printer forever ago and was thinking of grabbing an Ender 3 buuuut

Use case would be making knockoff tanks and terrain for Battletech. I have a wooden cabinet / desk enclosure that would keep any printer I get isolated.

If I understand correctly the Halot line is fine but almost no one uses them so support is limited. If it means anything, IIRC you HAVE to use Creality Cloud if you want to more easily send stuff to it, some people have a very understandable ethical issue with that due to how Creality openly allows a lot of art theft/etc. on it.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017
Also, I think the creality L200-h model is on sale for a little over 100 bucks rn.

It might fit your use case, and you can use any slicer afaik. I use chitubox on mine bc I hate myself.

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:
Oh yeah especially with the 4th of July this week just buy one off their website.



I've been using Cura but see so much good stuff about Prusa Slicer and just looking at it now it seems rad but I am an absolute loving moron, is it not possible to send something from Prusa Slicer to your printer via a USB cable?

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



w00tmonger i give you props for how much business you do selling minis. I just took a ton of mine down because cleaning supports off and stuff has been annoying after a day of work lol. They definitely make money but I'm going to stick to packs of supportless minis and FDM printed stuff on my bambus, anything more involved takes up a ton of time

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




I doubt it, but, does anyone else in this thread have a Neptune3 Max, and do you have a camera on it?

I can't figure out any good place to attach a camera arm to the frame such that I can actually see the bed. I'm thinking I might need to get a wide angle lens or just set up a tripod on the other side of the room or something.

For manually monitoring prints I've been using the webcam stream from a different printer that's sitting 4 feet away, but that's far from ideal, especially if I'm trying to run Spaghetti Detective or some such

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
Suggestions where to start troubleshooting clogs on an Ender 3 Pro with ABS?

My desktop bit the dust a few weeks ago so have had to reinstall Cura on my laptop, so I may have lost some settings. I am also using a different (but brand new) roll of ABS filament.

It seems happy to print the brim but have come down twice now to find it skywriting nothing. I used one of those needle things to try and clear the nozzle, but although it got a bit further the second time, had the same thing happen.

I use a bed temp of 110C and a nozzle temp of 240C, I think on the advice from someone in here. Used to work fine. It's the same .4mm nozzle I've been using for months.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
Enclosure?

Depending on the filament 240 could be low.

Is there part of the model still on the bed or is there nothing below the nozzle at all?

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

ilkhan posted:

Enclosure?

Depending on the filament 240 could be low.

Is there part of the model still on the bed or is there nothing below the nozzle at all?

Oops, should have mentioned, it's in an IKEA LACK enclosure that's I've printed lots of ABS with previously on the same printer.

I'll try bumping the nozzle temp up - now that you mention it I may have been using a higher temp in the past.

I haven't seen it fail in person, but it'll do the brim/start the print, then seems to clog shortly thereafter. When I come down it's dancing around a few mm's above the bit it did manage to print, doing nothing.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
So it's not shifting on the bed. Temp would be my first guess.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Does the Ender 3 pro have an all metal hotend? It's possible that if you're using a stock ender 3 hotend that the ptfe tube is degrading in the nozzle due to the higher temp printing. The basic hotend has the PTFE go all the way down and touch the inside of the nozzle, where an all metal one has it stop at the top of the heatbreak/tube. You could try changing the nozzle and redoing the tube but also maybe switch to an all metal hotend. I got a generic one a little while back for $20 or something and it's been pretty solid, similar performance to the stock hotend but higher temp capacity and less finnicky with the nozzle and tube part when replacing nozzles.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
Got it heating up for another run at it, gonna try 250 on the hotend. It makes sense that if 240 was a marginal temp for this filament, as soon as the nozzle started getting away from the heated bed it might cool a bit, which could cause a clog.

edit: nope, worse! not even printing the brim now...

Rexxed posted:

Does the Ender 3 pro have an all metal hotend? It's possible that if you're using a stock ender 3 hotend that the ptfe tube is degrading in the nozzle due to the higher temp printing. The basic hotend has the PTFE go all the way down and touch the inside of the nozzle, where an all metal one has it stop at the top of the heatbreak/tube. You could try changing the nozzle and redoing the tube but also maybe switch to an all metal hotend. I got a generic one a little while back for $20 or something and it's been pretty solid, similar performance to the stock hotend but higher temp capacity and less finnicky with the nozzle and tube part when replacing nozzles.

That does ring a bell about the tubing, I replaced the hotend a while back (snapped a nozzle off) with this one, which says "all metal" in the description.

I forgot to add that I'm moving overseas in a couple weeks so throwing new parts at it is a no-go. Sold all my extra filament on marketplace yesterday, hoping to run off a few things before I sell it as I don't think I'll have space for a 3D printer in the new digs for some time.

Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jun 29, 2023

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




I've got too many printers and it's time to get rid of my Ankermake

It is a temperamental beast, it prints PETG pretty well but I've never had super great luck getting PETG to print consistently with it.

$150 + shipping and this dumb fast weird thing can be your problem and/or blessing, goons. PM me or whatever.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I can finally finish the order for my XL I never got around to canceling.

Do I even still want it?

Len
Jan 21, 2008

Pouches, bandages, shoulderpad, cyber-eye...

Bitchin'!


I figured out my problem with the motors not working. Turns out when you install the wrong firmware nothing happens. And then you shouldn't dismiss the suggestion that it's the wrong firmware because "I know I put the right one on it"

So good news it works again
Bad news I was debating this as an excuse to get a bigger one

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mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Deviant posted:

I can finally finish the order for my XL I never got around to canceling.

Do I even still want it?

Clearly you don't lol

Just us on the Bambu side. Get a X1C or P1P + AMS.

New parts for my voron come in today, hopefully have it back up and running this weekend.

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