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Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Bondematt posted:

Just got mine and it was definitely used. Some resin drip stains cured to the case top, but nothing that I'm not going to so 5 minutes in.

Plate looks brand new but FEP has some residue on it. Might grab a new FEP just so I don't have any issues there.

Came with everything it does new, including the air cleaner, Allen Keys, and other tools. Which was a surprise as the listing said it could be missing accesories.

Gonna gently caress around with it tonight if I can.

Build area is tiny to me since I'm coming from FDM.

I grabbed some elegoo clear red and nova3d ultraclear resin.

Edit: Seems to work well, screen test checks out, FEP cleaned up fine, raises and lowers normally. Slapped the Wham Bam magnet and spacer on there and guess it takes 3 days to cure. Which is fine cause it'll be a few days before I can really test it anyway.

I keep seeing that you need a spacer to run a flexplate on the Saturn 2. I just put the flex plate on before I leveled it and set the z zero according to their instructions. Am I going to crack my screen or something?

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AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


X1-C havers that do TPU. What's a good 'test print' I can use to try it out. Got a fresh in the box roll I want to try and I haven't done anything flexible in this printer yet.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Not an X1C haver, but my first TPU print was just another benchy.


A squishy benchy is always fun


Is there some reason the p1p won't do TPU?

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


Roundboy posted:

Not an X1C haver, but my first TPU print was just another benchy.


A squishy benchy is always fun


Is there some reason the p1p won't do TPU?

Squishy benchy sounds fun. I was also thinking about the death trooper model from a while back. I did that squishy way back on my original bed-slinger and it turned out cool.

This TPU is 'clear', so I'm gonna throw the 0.6mm nozzle back on and make some fat gooey layers on whatever it ends up being.

Edit: Decided on a benchy scaled to 250x250x250% and 0.42mm chonky layers because stupid prints are always fun.

AlexDeGruven fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Jul 13, 2023

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Roundboy posted:

Not an X1C haver, but my first TPU print was just another benchy.


A squishy benchy is always fun


Is there some reason the p1p won't do TPU?

P1P is fine to do TPU, just not through an AMS.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

A P1P -> P1S upgrade kit is on the way very shortly! I was wondering if they were eventually going to do this, and there it is.

https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/p1p-to-p1s-upgrade-kit

Knowing that just acrylic panels from a 3rd party cost about a hundred bucks, and factoring in all of the filament and print time to make your own enclosure, it's an absolutely smokin' deal with all of the parts that are included. Not sure if I'll end up enclosing one of mine or not, but having the option will still be cool.

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


mattfl posted:

P1P is fine to do TPU, just not through an AMS.

I think the X1C cautions against TPU in the AMS as well. It's just a REALLY long filament path and multiple drive motors, so there's a lot that can go wrong without a lot of rigidity in the material being pushed.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Rad-daddio posted:

I keep seeing that you need a spacer to run a flexplate on the Saturn 2. I just put the flex plate on before I leveled it and set the z zero according to their instructions. Am I going to crack my screen or something?

The Saturn 2 has a spring that gives some amount of play, but will be under more tension than designed for without the use of a spacer. This could cause issues over the long term as the spring may wear out and cause leveling issues in the future. If you had a different type of printer, one without a spring, you would have unfortunately cracked your screen.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

IncredibleIgloo posted:

The Saturn 2 has a spring that gives some amount of play, but will be under more tension than designed for without the use of a spacer. This could cause issues over the long term as the spring may wear out and cause leveling issues in the future. If you had a different type of printer, one without a spring, you would have unfortunately cracked your screen.

Yeah, I noticed that there was spring loaded travel on the ball mount, so I just followed their instructions on leveling and z zero setting and it seems fine. When i have time I'll break it down and install the spacer.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Rad-daddio posted:

I keep seeing that you need a spacer to run a flexplate on the Saturn 2. I just put the flex plate on before I leveled it and set the z zero according to their instructions. Am I going to crack my screen or something?

It's definitely going to mean a lot more force during leveling since it's 3.8mm more compression on that spring in the build plate base.

Edit:

Rad-daddio posted:

Yeah, I noticed that there was spring loaded travel on the ball mount, so I just followed their instructions on leveling and z zero setting and it seems fine. When i have time I'll break it down and install the spacer.

It's thankfully easy to do since the zero activation arm is accessible on the bottom front left of the z block. If you have the XTR you want the 3.8mm and the standard is 2.6mm.

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jul 13, 2023

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
P1S is live and launched, and im about to order it with AMS

is there any reason "out of the box' that I can't print ABS or similar with it ?

8-bit Miniboss
May 24, 2005

CORPO COPS CAME FOR MY :filez:

Roundboy posted:

P1S is live and launched, and im about to order it with AMS

is there any reason "out of the box' that I can't print ABS or similar with it ?

At worst, maybe build sheet? But the PEI sheet it’ll come with should be fine?

Definitely a no with abrasive filaments however. It would need the hardened steel extruder gears and hotend upgrades. Also bypassing the AMS since the feed is mostly plastic.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

https://ca.store.bambulab.com/products/p1s

900 cads not bad at all

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Roundboy posted:

P1S is live and launched, and im about to order it with AMS

is there any reason "out of the box' that I can't print ABS or similar with it ?

ABS should work great out of the box.

Bambu, give me a P1S with a 350x350x350 or more volume and I'll throw my money at you next.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

8-bit Miniboss posted:

At worst, maybe build sheet? But the PEI sheet it’ll come with should be fine?

Definitely a no with abrasive filaments however. It would need the hardened steel extruder gears and hotend upgrades. Also bypassing the AMS since the feed is mostly plastic.

Im fine skipping abrasives, i do enjoy how touch ABS is vs PLA, but PLA+ is something to be recconed with .

I did just notice the press shipping does not apply to printers anymore :(

mattfl posted:

ABS should work great out of the box.

Bambu, give me a P1S with a 350x350x350 or more volume and I'll throw my money at you next.
yes, but I think I can revisit that later down the line as 99% of my printing is never using that. I still have my voron for 300 x 3 and if i want HUGE, i'll go ratrig

Screw it, $1043 to my door for ABS printing and AMS is what i would have done building a voron anyway.

Harvey Baldman
Jan 11, 2011

ATTORNEY AT LAW
Justice is bald, like an eagle, or Lady Liberty's docket.

I literally forgot that I ordered a Prusa XL in Nov of 2021. I basically don’t even want this thing anymore now that I’m seeing all the other better options that are landing. If you had told me almost two years later I’d still be waiting I never would have ordered.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
Only reason I want the XL still is the toolheads, otherwise I'd go with P1P/P1S with the AMS.

I just can't get over how much it poops.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Bondematt posted:

Only reason I want the XL still is the toolheads, otherwise I'd go with P1P/P1S with the AMS.

I just can't get over how much it poops.

I've wasted way more filament in failed prints over the years than I've seen in poops. It goes right in the trash and I don't even think about it after prints. With filament as cheap as $10/roll it doesn't even bother me anymore.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
the guy that came up with the code for the filament blending thing needs to come up with a way to make a print from the wipe tower. It could just be a benchy for all i care

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Bondematt posted:

Only reason I want the XL still is the toolheads, otherwise I'd go with P1P/P1S with the AMS.

I just can't get over how much it poops.

Afaik this can be toned down a ton. Not sure exactly how this goes with the AMS though

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

The new failed print/filament poop recycling fad du jour is to melt the stuff down in silicone molds using an old toaster oven. I've been saving waste material to try it myself one of these days.

You can absolutely tune the purge amounts, minus the length that's actually required to clear the old color out. You can also purge into infill, or into a completely separate object. Lots of people use little fidget toys as purge objects.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
My main use would be using PLA as supports for PETG which requires a thorough purge to make them not stick together unfortunately.

Even with that it's still really hard not to just go for the poop, cause that printer is just way better.

I should probably get over it and touch the poop.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Ah, yeah, that does throw a little wrench into things. I'll tell you though... my only real regret about touching the poop is that now all I want to do is spend all my money on more AMS units to make more poop.

(e) - Current status, test printing some wee duckies. A friend of mine owns the little corner store near my house, and the business sponsors a rubber duck race every summer as part of our podunk little town's Old Home Week. If these print OK (had some curling issues with the beaks on the first try), I'm going to make as many as I can for him between now and Sunday to hand out to folks who come in to shop while the race is going on.

Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Jul 14, 2023

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Bondematt posted:

My main use would be using PLA as supports for PETG which requires a thorough purge to make them not stick together unfortunately.

Even with that it's still really hard not to just go for the poop, cause that printer is just way better.

I should probably get over it and touch the poop.

This is a psycho solution, but what about only printing pla supports in a crazy color so you can sort your 2 filaments once it's all done?

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.
I haven't bought anything FDM in a long time (except the PrusaXL preorder that I eventually cancelled, heh) - anyone able to share a quick TL;DR of their Bambu experience using the AMS? Like is having multiple AMS really for-real practical? Can you throw PVA in there as support material? That was kind of what interested me in the PrusaXL in the first place

Also are folks tending to go all in on PETG these days and skipping PLA?

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Snackmar posted:

I haven't bought anything FDM in a long time (except the PrusaXL preorder that I eventually cancelled, heh) - anyone able to share a quick TL;DR of their Bambu experience using the AMS? Like is having multiple AMS really for-real practical? Can you throw PVA in there as support material? That was kind of what interested me in the PrusaXL in the first place

Also are folks tending to go all in on PETG these days and skipping PLA?

PLA is still the most popular filament just due to ease of printing.

I've had so many mechanical and thermal printer issues with PETG over the years and PLA just kept printing right along during all of it.

You can use PVA with the AMS. It also requires a thorough purge and since it's kind of expensive, most people only use it for ABS. PETG & PLA are the perfect support material for each other.

God the X1C with AMS is tempting me now, but gonna hold out at least until I get resin printing figured out.

Edit: NVM, apparently you can't use PVA with ABS due to the heat? What are people even using it for then?

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jul 14, 2023

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?

Harvey Baldman posted:

I literally forgot that I ordered a Prusa XL in Nov of 2021. I basically don’t even want this thing anymore now that I’m seeing all the other better options that are landing. If you had told me almost two years later I’d still be waiting I never would have ordered.

If you're early in line see if you can resell to someone who'll pay a premium to get one sooner.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Supports for pla is pretty much the only reason I keep petg around, I don't even know why I have a few spools around

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

Roundboy posted:

Supports for pla is pretty much the only reason I keep petg around, I don't even know why I have a few spools around

Would you mind sharing a few photos of that? I'm curious how that looks

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
No? I haven't set up any ams stuff yet, but it looks just like normal supports, only you set the contact distance to zero and pla snaps cleanly off petg


My voron ercf is still sitting as parts I just haven't built it yet, but that is a 6 changer that would be fun. Maybe this weekend.

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

Roundboy posted:

No? I haven't set up any ams stuff yet, but it looks just like normal supports, only you set the contact distance to zero and pla snaps cleanly off petg


My voron ercf is still sitting as parts I just haven't built it yet, but that is a 6 changer that would be fun. Maybe this weekend.

My bad, I thought you meant that you had already been using PETG as support for PLA.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Snackmar posted:

Would you mind sharing a few photos of that? I'm curious how that looks

I don't have any handy, but it looks like a weird first layer on a textured build plate. It's not smooth but it is one continuous face if that makes sense.

Edit: This shows it off pretty well. Money shots start around 3:30.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oWAacnuViU

Double edit: Well poo poo, he points out that you can make the interface layer solid...

Something to try next time I need it.

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jul 14, 2023

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Bambu's "PLA support" (formerly "Support W") filament is actually pretty nice. It's not perfect but it's pretty dang good for those tricky parts that need it.

It's AMS compatible and prints nicely as well as coming cleanly off PLA. If it detects you're using it for support material, it'll suggest certain settings and you can splat them in with a click. (Concentric fill for support interface layer, 0 mm separation between model and support interface, etc.)

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I'll consider it but my order of operations will be to assure my slicer config is up to snuff, and then seeing what addon/upgrade parts I can print.

Now that I pulled the trigger, I want china to ship faster.

I'm not even going to bother to fix the ender, unless I end up giving it to my nephew or something. The voron and bambu for total printer coverage

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Roundboy posted:

I'll consider it but my order of operations will be to assure my slicer config is up to snuff, and then seeing what addon/upgrade parts I can print.

Now that I pulled the trigger, I want china to ship faster.

I'm not even going to bother to fix the ender, unless I end up giving it to my nephew or something. The voron and bambu for total printer coverage

Honestly probably the move

I'm holding off till I see some P1SS reviews come in but the thing looks solid.

Probably going to end up grabbing e ough to run a small farm. Seems like a really space effecient way to have a ton of print capacity vs some cheaper bed slingers

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
What would there be to review? It's a P1P with some add on parts, and theoretically bundled with an AMS which I'm told works out cheaper then a P1P + parts + AMS typically

ABS is the most exotic I'll deal with, but with a max of 100c bed I'll see how that works out chamber temp wise but as a pla machine in colors will churn out a lot of fun.

I have never even attempted carbon fiber but meh. The hardened gears, nozzle, etc I can always grab whenever

With the speed of the bambu, has anyone bothered with a . 6 nozzle or will I see largely reduced print times already?

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Posts in the Bambu FB group generally seem to indicate that a 0.6 nozzle doesn't really get you the same kind of speed increase as it might with something like an Ender. Even at "standard" printing speeds the Bambu is already 3-4x faster, and apparently going up a size doesn't really affect that very much. Larger nozzles do still seem to be recommended for stuff like CF and wood filaments though.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Bondematt posted:

PLA is still the most popular filament just due to ease of printing.

I've had so many mechanical and thermal printer issues with PETG over the years and PLA just kept printing right along during all of it.

You can use PVA with the AMS. It also requires a thorough purge and since it's kind of expensive, most people only use it for ABS. PETG & PLA are the perfect support material for each other.

God the X1C with AMS is tempting me now, but gonna hold out at least until I get resin printing figured out.

Edit: NVM, apparently you can't use PVA with ABS due to the heat? What are people even using it for then?

I don't know if maybe I got a defective roll but the one time I tried PETG it clogged up and gave me nothing but problems. ABS was way easier to print with compared to it.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
I forget who mentioned it, but 3rd party MJF printing is pretty reasonably priced. Just ordered some parts from Xometry for a job I'm doing.

I mean, they're not giving it away but it was quoted a lot less than I was expecting for a glass-filled nylon part.

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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
edit : working now

looks like they give you a coupon for polyterra filament equal to the license cost. so that is a pretty screaming deal

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Jul 14, 2023

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