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OK, for some reason I thought they had to be dedicated. The disposal is definitely not dedicated under that definition as it has a duplex under the sink, and the dishwasher of course because of the lights. Honestly I was thinking at least one of them had to be dedicated and the PO had swapped the circuits at some point. H110Hawk posted:"will it blend" indeed with my new 6 horsepower insinkerator. For when you you need your garbage disposal to not only handle eggshells and vegetable peels, but also beef bones and yard debris.
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# ? Jul 7, 2023 16:33 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 14:57 |
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DaveSauce posted:In this box there are 3 switches, 1 for the dishwasher, 1 for the garbage disposal, and 1 for the over-sink light. The wording on this triggered my brain, so now this exists
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# ? Jul 7, 2023 17:19 |
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DaveSauce posted:For when you you need your garbage disposal to not only handle eggshells and vegetable peels, but also beef bones and yard debris. Uh yeah, "beef" bones.
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# ? Jul 7, 2023 17:35 |
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Blowjob Overtime posted:The wording on this triggered my brain, so now this exists I may put that in my yard
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# ? Jul 7, 2023 17:42 |
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Blowjob Overtime posted:The wording on this triggered my brain, so now this exists I have never, in my life, felt so attacked by my own words. And I've said some pretty stupid poo poo. I am both amazed and terrified by this creation.
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# ? Jul 7, 2023 21:42 |
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Blowjob Overtime posted:The wording on this triggered my brain, so now this exists
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# ? Jul 7, 2023 22:07 |
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One day.
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# ? Jul 7, 2023 22:14 |
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I'm looking to put an outlet on the outside of my house. I can either drill through the rim joist/siding or the exposed block wall of the basement. i have the tools for both, but I'm curious about what's better. The plan is to just have it go right down in to the ground and go under some pavers a few feet and then come up by a post. I'd prefer to drill through the block wall and use PVC conduit, I don't want to drill through the wood and have to cut away a bunch of siding and use one of those boxes if I can avoid it.
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# ? Jul 9, 2023 22:46 |
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For lever wire connectors, is there any reason not to use the no-name generic connectors linked below over Wago connectors? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BN3M3ZNZ/
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# ? Jul 10, 2023 01:02 |
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Skunkduster posted:For lever wire connectors, is there any reason not to use the no-name generic connectors linked below over Wago connectors? There's no indication that these things are UL listed.
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# ? Jul 10, 2023 01:34 |
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Skunkduster posted:For lever wire connectors, is there any reason not to use the no-name generic connectors linked below over Wago connectors? Is the cost of rebuilding your house after it burns down more or less then ?
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# ? Jul 10, 2023 01:35 |
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Thanks for the replies. We use some generic lever connectors at work, but that's for 5VDC at just a few mA. I'm comfortable with that, but figured I'd ask here when it comes to house wiring.
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# ? Jul 10, 2023 01:46 |
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Yeah, completely different risk profiles. I'd use generics in low-voltage situations, maybe even on line voltage in a plugged device that has its own overcurrent protection much lower than a 15A/20A breaker. Behind a wallplate on at least a 15A breaker, intended to be there undisturbed for decades? Wagos or wirenuts only.
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# ? Jul 10, 2023 02:38 |
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Skunkduster posted:For lever wire connectors, is there any reason not to use the no-name generic connectors linked below over Wago connectors? Amazon has become a domestic Alibaba... my first order of Wagos, I did get from Amazon and used in a few places. The box looked 'right' and they passed my sniff test. Past that, I have been sourcing them from the local electrical supply house (Platt) and tossing into a Packout until I need them.
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# ? Jul 10, 2023 03:18 |
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movax posted:Amazon has become a domestic Alibaba... my first order of Wagos, I did get from Amazon and used in a few places. The box looked 'right' and they passed my sniff test. Past that, I have been sourcing them from the local electrical supply house (Platt) and tossing into a Packout until I need them. Same. I don't think anyone is counterfeiting the 221's yet, but that's a big gamble to take ordering them from Amazon. I've ordered all my subsequent boxes from SupplyHouse.com. Home Depot also sells them now, but doesn't have the full product selection last I checked.
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# ? Jul 10, 2023 03:57 |
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I got my 221s from Amazon. Pretty confident they're genuine, if not they're a really convincing counterfeit. Not sure I'd risk it again, though. Just too much at stake. Looks like Newark and digi key carry them, so you should be able to get them from a more reputable source without having to be a commercial customer.
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# ? Jul 11, 2023 00:13 |
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crosspost from tools thread I'm getting a 1.5 hp motor for my table saw, just a garden variety synchronous AC motor. I can wire it for 110v or 220v, since I have an available & live dryer outlet in my garage. Normally I wouldn't even consider 220, but at 110, the max current draw for this motor is 13.2A, which is close to the limit for the outlet (I think? Breakers are either 15A or 20A, and poorly labeled of course.) 220V breaker is 40A. I'll probably be running a shop vac for dust collection as well. Which would you pick? I'd prefer to wire it for 110, since I already have all the parts and cables to do so, but if I'm running a cut in thick hardwood that might redline the motor, I don't want to trip the breaker unless the saw actually jams. On the other hand, someone from the tool thread mentioned there can be issues with running small loads on a large 220 breaker, including the breaker not tripping if there's a problem.
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# ? Jul 19, 2023 07:19 |
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HolHorsejob posted:Normally I wouldn't even consider 220, but at 110, the max current draw for this motor is 13.2A, which is close to the limit for the outlet (I think? Breakers are either 15A or 20A, and poorly labeled of course.) I would wire it 110V and make sure that the circuit it's on is a 20A circuit. If you wired it 220, you'd be putting a 40A plug on to fit your 40A outlet, and I agree that the motor might catch fire well before the breaker started to care. You could put an inline overload protector on the machine, but for the cost, it doesn't make sense when going 110 is just as safe. Outlets are rated for 100% duty cycle, breakers are rated for 80% of continuous capacity. So your outlet can run at 15A all the time, and the 20A breaker can stay at 16A forever.
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# ? Jul 19, 2023 18:30 |
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I have a strange electrical problem in my separate garage. Both it and the house are very old, and the wiring is just 2 romex strung between the buildings. The outlet tests fine, however there is a 105v between the electrical ground of the outlet and the earth ground. If I touch the metal garage door or a metal pipe just touching the damp earth and the grounded outlet casing you feel a buzz. I'm quite confused on what could be causing this problem.
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# ? Jul 20, 2023 18:50 |
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GamerMage posted:I have a strange electrical problem in my separate garage. Both it and the house are very old, and the wiring is just 2 romex strung between the buildings. The outlet tests fine, however there is a 105v between the electrical ground of the outlet and the earth ground. If I touch the metal garage door or a metal pipe just touching the damp earth and the grounded outlet casing you feel a buzz. I'm quite confused on what could be causing this problem. Somewhere something is leaking to ground. I bet that sketchy illegal romex is the source of the issue. I would kill the power and see if the outlet has the neutral wired to ground.
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# ? Jul 20, 2023 18:58 |
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Hi friends! Enemies! Motronic! We're in escrow on a house and got back the inspection. It's all surprisingly good and the inspector seemed to actually be competent. I understand the caveats, but I made fast friends with him chatting about stuff and he gave me some good tips on preserving life of some things that are fine now, but that UV or Entropy will make not fine later. He did amusingly say the panel was working fine and it took 2 rounds of "yeah but will the breakers actually work if I short something out" before he realized what I meant by "work." That being said, what brand is this panel? He noted it was a brand he didn't like but couldn't recall which one, the labels are very worn. 1976 construction. Is it "Danger, Inc" or "Old But Fine" ?
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 22:14 |
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Gross, it's an ancient Zinsco panel. It's maybe okay, probably not gonna burn your house down but don't be surprised if some of the breakers are "soft" (i.e. trip below their rating) and then yeah.....who knows which ones won't trip at all. I'm not sure I've ever heard of that as an epidemic Zinsco thing though. Not like it's a stab-loc.
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 22:42 |
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Motronic posted:Gross, it's an ancient Zinsco panel. It's maybe okay, probably not gonna burn your house down but don't be surprised if some of the breakers are "soft" (i.e. trip below their rating) and then yeah.....who knows which ones won't trip at all. I'm not sure I've ever heard of that as an epidemic Zinsco thing though. Not like it's a stab-loc. Music to my ears. I thought those looked familiar. I couldn't get the panel open without "oomph" during our pre-offer showing so I left it. First house we looked at was Stab-Lok. My current house had Zinsco. They definitely do not open based on what we ran through our house. Now let's see what the sellers say about giving me $5,000 towards my solar installation.
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 22:52 |
Motronic posted:Gross, it's an ancient Zinsco panel. It's maybe okay, probably not gonna burn your house down but don't be surprised if some of the breakers are "soft" (i.e. trip below their rating) and then yeah.....who knows which ones won't trip at all. I'm not sure I've ever heard of that as an epidemic Zinsco thing though. Not like it's a stab-loc. They have an issue of breakers coming loose from the aluminum bus bar and arcing. That causes overheating that can either fuse the breakers to the bar or partially fuse the contacts within the breaker. They also supposedly have a 25% failure rate for overcurrent trips, but I can't find an original source for that.
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 23:06 |
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Yeah Zinsco are definitely better than Stab Locs but I've heard they have arcing problems and you'll never know until you replace it or your house catches on fire. I'd probably rank it pretty high on the list to get to. ElectricianU on YouTube did a video at his house and when he removed his old Zinsco breakers he discovered evidence of arcing under one of them. At 18:40 in this video. https://youtu.be/5YNLC80clS8
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 00:24 |
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Motronic posted:Gross, it's an ancient Zinsco panel. It's maybe okay, probably not gonna burn your house down but don't be surprised if some of the breakers are "soft" (i.e. trip below their rating) and then yeah.....who knows which ones won't trip at all. I'm not sure I've ever heard of that as an epidemic Zinsco thing though. Not like it's a stab-loc.
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 00:27 |
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Anything that old should be replaced to be fair. It's just another old rear end panel that's gonna have old rear end panel and breaker problems. And in this case that includes finding replacement parts while you nurse it along.SpartanIvy posted:when he removed his old Zinsco breakers he discovered evidence of arcing under one of them. I mean......lol stop putting panels outside of houses California. I get it, but you're not doing the busbar any favors. And like I said, at that age..... I think everyone here knows I'm a Square D QO fan so I'll replace anything that isn't with one of those eventually. But what matters for our mod right now is: can you insure that place as it is? I bet that answer is "yes" and that means you can plan this for another time, and bundle it up with other related work that sounds like might be already in the cards (solar install). Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Jul 22, 2023 |
# ? Jul 22, 2023 00:31 |
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Motronic posted:But what matters for our mod right now is: can you insure that place as it is? I bet that answer is "yes" and that means you can plan this for another time, and bundle it up with other related work that sounds like might be already in the cards (solar install). Bingo bango, I just want $5,000 back in my pocket. Or whatever they will give me. I plan on slamming solar on it before we move in, or at least signing the contract to do it, which will include my electrician replacing the panel with something Solar Ready. And how dare you suggest we move it inside, next you will say I shouldn't have my sprinkler spraying my meter and panel several times a week. My old meter broke a few months back. They replaced it and this one is SO easy to read because it's not buried under a mountain of hard water buildup. Thanks for a few weeks of 0 draw readings, SCE.
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 01:08 |
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H110Hawk posted:And how dare you suggest we move it inside, next you will say I shouldn't have my sprinkler spraying my meter and panel several times a week. https://i.imgur.com/7CEvsZL.gifv
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 01:22 |
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Bought a 1970s house recently, basement is mostly unfinished, which will allow me to redo the electrical outlets on the main floor to add a couple circuits while switching to copper from aluminum. What’s not simple is replacing the lighting wiring. What’s the thread consensus on effort to do this while I make considerable renovations (but not down to the studs)? I’m on the fence, which is why I’m posting here — on one hand there’s only going to be a couple watts of LEDs hanging off these going forward, but on the other hand it’s nice to know everything’s been updated. I know how to safely bond AlCu, no advice needed there.
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 17:28 |
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yippee cahier posted:Bought a 1970s house recently, basement is mostly unfinished, which will allow me to redo the electrical outlets on the main floor to add a couple circuits while switching to copper from aluminum. What’s not simple is replacing the lighting wiring. What’s the thread consensus on effort to do this while I make considerable renovations (but not down to the studs)? I’m on the fence, which is why I’m posting here — on one hand there’s only going to be a couple watts of LEDs hanging off these going forward, but on the other hand it’s nice to know everything’s been updated. I know how to safely bond AlCu, no advice needed there. Once you're patching drywall at all I would scope creep as much as you can.
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 17:33 |
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H110Hawk posted:Once you're patching drywall at all I would scope creep as much as you can. Yeah, it's this. You're already making the mess of cutting, mixing, sanding.......get it all done at once and clean it up once. Besides, once you move furniture or other stuff into a space there's a million good reasons and excuses to never bother doing it in the future.
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 17:43 |
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Our general plan is to tape shut all the ventilation in the house (sorry contractors) then do all the dusty work at once. Wiring, any plumbing that needs doing, low voltage, lighting, insulation repair, you name it. Then have someone rip out the super old deep shag carpet (you're welcome, contractors knees) and have em take the dust with them. Once we're 100% done we'll have someone in to patch the drywall, then paint. My favorite part of the disclosure form is where you can see the realtors hand basically swatting away the sellers hand as they checked the "did you do renovation involving lead paint without proper remediation? <X>(poorly white outed) Yes / <X> No". It's 1976 I know there's lead paint it's fine.
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 18:00 |
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H110Hawk posted:Somewhere something is leaking to ground. I bet that sketchy illegal romex is the source of the issue. I would kill the power and see if the outlet has the neutral wired to ground. Turned out not to be the sketchy romex. Power coming up from basement turned out to be old ungrounded wire. They tied neutral to ground at the light switch junction in the house. Disconnected that and put in a ground rod next to the garage.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 21:49 |
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GamerMage posted:Turned out not to be the sketchy romex. Power coming up from basement turned out to be old ungrounded wire. They tied neutral to ground at the light switch junction in the house. Disconnected that and put in a ground rod next to the garage. Nice find!
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 21:52 |
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Motronic posted:Gross, it's an ancient Zinsco panel. It's maybe okay, probably not gonna burn your house down but don't be surprised if some of the breakers are "soft" (i.e. trip below their rating) and then yeah.....who knows which ones won't trip at all. I'm not sure I've ever heard of that as an epidemic Zinsco thing though. Not like it's a stab-loc. It's absolutely a problem with Zinsco breakers. They also like to "trip", but the contacts are welded shut, so they don't actually trip. Or you turn the breaker off, and it doesn't... actually turn off. One apartment I was in almost burned down from a shorted light fixture; the switch melted a bit, breaker never tripped (but did smoke and burn the hell out of me when I was trying to kill power - breaker wouldn't turn off, the wiring at the fixture socket eventually melted).
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 00:07 |
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randomidiot posted:It's absolutely a problem with Zinsco breakers. Good to know. We have very few of those (left?) on on this coast so I've not personally run into a problem/investigation where they caused an issue. But like I said.....seriously.....anything that old needs replacing.
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 00:23 |
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Is there a master list of terribad electrical panels?
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 01:20 |
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Chronojam posted:Is there a master list of terribad electrical panels? Federal Pacific Electric.
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 01:32 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 14:57 |
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Chronojam posted:Is there a master list of terribad electrical panels? Yes: - Not Square D QO - Not Cutler Hammer CH - Not Siemens QP
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 01:35 |