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a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
Re panel chat: I have a sub panel that has 24 knockouts but when I opened it there are only 20 spots to put breakers. What's the easiest way to add 4 more spots? I'm not sure if I can use double breakers (I need afci :( ) it's a Square D homeline panel

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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

FISHMANPET posted:

Upgrading your service requires a new panel, it's more than just pooping a bigger main breaker in.

Why is this, anyway? Do they need to make the bus bar out of thicker material or something?

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

I have a crappy-ish Hunter ceiling fan I got from Home Depot and installed myself a few years ago. Unfortunately, the medium and low speeds are effectively useless, so I pretty much only run it on high. In the last year or so, it started sometimes not switching to high, or it would switch to high but not actually get up to speed. It's unclear to me if it's the motor, the switch, the speed controller, or something else, but now it won't go on high at all, which makes it an ugly light fixture.

Any tips to figure out what the problem is? And what's the non-landlord special ceiling fan that I can replace it with if not? A medium/low speed that actually moves some air would be nice for the colder months.

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin

more falafel please posted:

I have a crappy-ish Hunter ceiling fan I got from Home Depot and installed myself a few years ago. Unfortunately, the medium and low speeds are effectively useless, so I pretty much only run it on high. In the last year or so, it started sometimes not switching to high, or it would switch to high but not actually get up to speed. It's unclear to me if it's the motor, the switch, the speed controller, or something else, but now it won't go on high at all, which makes it an ugly light fixture.

Any tips to figure out what the problem is? And what's the non-landlord special ceiling fan that I can replace it with if not? A medium/low speed that actually moves some air would be nice for the colder months.

You may have blown the motor running it full speed all the time

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

HootTheOwl posted:

You may have blown the motor running it full speed all the time

I'm willing to believe that just because it's a lovely contractor model, but if it's not designed to run for 8 hours a day at one of its preset speeds, it shouldn't be like that.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
It was doa and should have been returned, as much as that sucks with a fan. See if there is a warranty but it sounds like the windings on the motor are busted.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


There is a world of difference between the contractor special big box fans sold under the Hunter brand and the real Hunter fans. The real ones can stay on for decades at a time with maybe an occasional bit of lubrication.

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

There is a world of difference between the contractor special big box fans sold under the Hunter brand and the real Hunter fans. The real ones can stay on for decades at a time with maybe an occasional bit of lubrication.

How do I know the difference

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


HootTheOwl posted:

How do I know the difference
The real ones cost $600.

E:
good hunter, will last 50 years and more: https://www.ceilingfan.com/hunter-original-1

Mediocre hunter fan, possibly not actually manufactured by hunter: https://www.ceilingfan.com/hunter-sea-wind

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jul 22, 2023

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
But but but my hunter green uses the official app!

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

H110Hawk posted:

It was doa and should have been returned, as much as that sucks with a fan. See if there is a warranty but it sounds like the windings on the motor are busted.

It wasn't DOA, it worked fine for several years, like I said. The medium setting was slower than what I wanted. If there was a warranty I'm sure it's out of it by now.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Pulled the Champion 4 turdmaster and tried putting my scope down the line. Got about 5 feet and the lens got covered in, uh, probably what you think from riding along the side of the pipe. So you can imagine that the picture was pretty much useless. Pulled it out, cleaned it. Went in slower trying to pay attention. As I got to the same area the camera started pushing up the ooze on the side of the pipe again so it was kinda useless.. but the little 5mm scope will probably come in handy for wrenching so money not lost.

Filled a couple of big stock pots full of water and dumped down the flange, you could hear it wasn't draining right, as to be expected. But the water was slowly flowing. Then all of a sudden you could hear a change and it rapidly drained.

Grabbed the snake and shoved it down, got oh, roughly the same, little further and you could hear the water definitely change and I pulled it back...

Yeah, it looked like and smelled like exactly you'd think.

Rinsed it off, put it back but this time I was able to point the toilet tank fill line down the flange and lit it rip as I passed the snake down. Got probably 20ish feet, I'm sure far enough to hit the stack, and pulled it back. No nice klingons that time so washed it off, and re-assembled toilet.

All seems to be fine. Hoping I don't need to do this again.

I can't prove evidence of costco papertowels, but I DO know they were often used in cleaning the washroom and flushed up until about a year or so ago, so that is my suspicion for what cause the periodic hang up.

Will see if this ever happens again.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Please mock my awful drywall mudding and taping job. It's so bad but I think if I use enough compound and then sand a lot and then use some texture and paint it'll be passable. My mud hardened up before I finished so it's not quite all done yet as you can see in the corner there.


Ignore that it's greenboard. That was used in place of normal sheetrock because my partner really wanted it.

SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Jul 22, 2023

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

more falafel please posted:

I have a crappy-ish Hunter ceiling fan I got from Home Depot and installed myself a few years ago. Unfortunately, the medium and low speeds are effectively useless, so I pretty much only run it on high. In the last year or so, it started sometimes not switching to high, or it would switch to high but not actually get up to speed. It's unclear to me if it's the motor, the switch, the speed controller, or something else, but now it won't go on high at all, which makes it an ugly light fixture.

Any tips to figure out what the problem is? And what's the non-landlord special ceiling fan that I can replace it with if not? A medium/low speed that actually moves some air would be nice for the colder months.

I wonder if the brushes for the motor just need to be replaced. I don't know if they're brushless or what but if you can turn the breaker off and remove the housing, maybe you can pull the brushes and see.

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

Good call on the giant one, I'd go bigger if I bought mine again.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

:stare:



Automower 430XH Robotic Lawn Mower with GPS Assisted Navigation (1/2 Acre To 1 Acre) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-Automower-430XH-Robotic-Lawn-Mower-with-GPS-Assisted-Navigation-1-2-Acre-To-1-Acre/5013582143

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


slidebite posted:

Pulled the Champion 4 turdmaster

Not all heroes wear capes

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

:stare:

Also I think robo mowers should be illegal. Too much danger.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

SpartanIvy posted:

Please mock my awful drywall mudding and taping job. It's so bad but I think if I use enough compound and then sand a lot and then use some texture and paint it'll be passable. My mud hardened up before I finished so it's not quite all done yet as you can see in the corner there.


Ignore that it's greenboard. That was used in place of normal sheetrock because my partner really wanted it.


The gouges in the corner and the fat bulge on the bottom of the tape on the right will be annoying, but the rest is fine. The mud hides all.

You should consider pre-filling those big gaps at the ceiling, maybe even flat tape before taping the corner.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

Consider a pass with a wet sponge versus trying to sand down a large glob.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

SpartanIvy posted:

Please mock my awful drywall mudding and taping job. It's so bad but I think if I use enough compound and then sand a lot and then use some texture and paint it'll be passable. My mud hardened up before I finished so it's not quite all done yet as you can see in the corner there.


Ignore that it's greenboard. That was used in place of normal sheetrock because my partner really wanted it.


Next time, put the top sheet in first. I know. It seems wrong. It's heavy. It's harder. It's the right way.

The top sheet should support the outside edge of the ceiling drywall, and when they're nice and tight it doesn't crack. Ideal you don't screw off the ceiling drywall close either so if the structure moves it'll flex and maintain a close relationship with the walls.

Also go pick up a box of drywall mud to finish the rest. When you mention it hardening I know you must be using 45 minute hot mud. It's very nice to have on hand, but the mixed box is more forgiving, ready to use, and will last through the job even if you do 10 coats over the next month. It's also dirt cheap. Looks to be about $13 local to me. Mix it up, add a bit of water to loosen it for finishing.

I did some patching with hot mud today, it rocks to have around. I put back a piece I cut for an access. It also looks like poo poo! Partly because of where and what it is. I used a hole saw and just secured the scrap back in. It was out of level. Round holes are annoying to tape. The scrap always ends up too deep in the hole despite the backer wood being straight and secured on all ends. And it's on the ceiling, so gravity isn't my friend. I'll wet sand with a sponge in the morning and give it a skim coat with a wetter mix and it'll be close.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

H110Hawk posted:

:stare:

Also I think robo mowers should be illegal. Too much danger.

It uses little razor blades instead of regular blades. I think you’d have to try pretty hard to get cut.

The creepiest part is it’s utterly silent. Even my electric push mower makes a loud whirring sound.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

StormDrain posted:

Next time, put the top sheet in first. I know. It seems wrong. It's heavy. It's harder. It's the right way.

The top sheet should support the outside edge of the ceiling drywall, and when they're nice and tight it doesn't crack. Ideal you don't screw off the ceiling drywall close either so if the structure moves it'll flex and maintain a close relationship with the walls.

Also go pick up a box of drywall mud to finish the rest. When you mention it hardening I know you must be using 45 minute hot mud. It's very nice to have on hand, but the mixed box is more forgiving, ready to use, and will last through the job even if you do 10 coats over the next month. It's also dirt cheap. Looks to be about $13 local to me. Mix it up, add a bit of water to loosen it for finishing.

I did some patching with hot mud today, it rocks to have around. I put back a piece I cut for an access. It also looks like poo poo! Partly because of where and what it is. I used a hole saw and just secured the scrap back in. It was out of level. Round holes are annoying to tape. The scrap always ends up too deep in the hole despite the backer wood being straight and secured on all ends. And it's on the ceiling, so gravity isn't my friend. I'll wet sand with a sponge in the morning and give it a skim coat with a wetter mix and it'll be close.



I went and bought the big 200 pack of these: https://www.prest-on.com/products/prest-on-insta-back-drywall-fastener-200-pack They work significantly better then loving around with backer wood.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Home Depot does have really good clearance prices periodically. Curious how that works out for you.

Gas grill question.

We're slowly getting into the market for a new NG grill. No rush, my old one does still work, but it's getting up there and I'd really like a side burner for frying things periodically. Example, if I'm doing burgers I like frying some mushrooms and onions for a toppings.

I noticed that Napoleon (and other "good" brands) commonly has sear burners (typically for searing steak) as a side burner, not so much regular burners.

Can you use a side sear burner as a "regular" burner for a frying pan? I typically use an ancient 10ish" cast, well seasoned iron pan for frying when I can.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I just put a cast iron on the grill. I would go to the manufacturer website and look through their complete catalog. The stores aren't going to stock more niche stuff, but any BBQ store can order whatever you want. Basically anything can be NG by adding that to the part number. You don't need to limit yourself.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Yeah I put the pan on the grill right now as well. It's not ideal.

I'm not limiting myself, just waiting for something to go on sale at end of season and snag it. I'm aware that propane and NG are generally swappable with slight modification. Just curious about using a sear burner as a regular burner, that's all.

My local Costco actually has ready to go NG Napoleons with the side sear right now which I think will be marked down to a .97 soon (that's their closeout pricing) but just trying to do some research.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

devicenull posted:

I went and bought the big 200 pack of these: https://www.prest-on.com/products/prest-on-insta-back-drywall-fastener-200-pack They work significantly better then loving around with backer wood.

You're right. Wish I had bought a pack of them a decade ago. Maybe I'll remember to get some next time I patch something. I'm also hoping to go a year or more without needing them!

Oh guess what I'm doing today? Ripping out a section of drywall to put in a new backsplash.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I'm looking at filling in the grass between my two concrete driveway tracks with concrete (or maaybe gravel) and adding a bit of an apron to my garage. Apron would be ~16'x5-6' (80-100 sq ft) and the area between the two existing concrete areas is ~3'x125' (400 sq ft). I plan to do the excavation myself, but how thick should the concrete be and do I need to add any reinforcement mesh or rebar? I'm in an area with no frost heave or anything, hardly ever freezes. It wouldn't get much traffic, but occasionally I might drive a big pickup truck full of mulch or a tree trimming truck might have to get back there. For that amount of concrete, would I be better off to hire someone to pour it from a truck or is that something I could do myself? By my math it's around 4 yards. My prior concrete pouring experience is pretty limited, but I remember even with renting a mixer from HD it wasn't much fun, but I did also have a broken hand at the time, lol.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Jul 23, 2023

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


slidebite posted:

Gas grill question.

Weber uses regular burners on the side, the sear function is integrated into the grill part.

I have been very pleased with my propane Genesis for the last ten years. Nothing needed beyond the stuff you'd expect like new grates, heat distribution bars, and new casters thanks to the Texas sun baking the rubber off the old ones. It shows absolutely no sign of slowing down anytime soon, but if a tree fell on it or something I wouldn't hesitate to get another Weber.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I would hire out 4 yards of concrete. Including the rebar if you can swing it. Excavation and forming is easy by comparison and without that the pour should be reasonably priced and done in a morning.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Concrete is such a chore. Between the sheer mass of the materials, and the fact that you have to get all your work done in a relatively small timeframe, it's just stressful and exhausting. The biggest pour I've done was for basically 2 sidewalk squares' worth, and I'm pretty confident I wouldn't want to go bigger without assistance.

4 yards of concrete is about 16000 pounds (sixteen thousand, not a typo). It's close to half what a cement mixer truck can carry. No way, no how would I try to do that solo.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Speaking of dumb ideas, I used to have a list of pre-fab or semi-custom "fancy sheds" which I have lost. I want to get something that can basically be delivered by giant forklift or crane into my back yard that's like 12x12, insulated, electrified, window, to-be-air-conditioned, etc. to use as a work from home office. Anyone have any suggestions or personal experience with these before I go off and see who has paid Google the most money?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

H110Hawk posted:

Speaking of dumb ideas, I used to have a list of pre-fab or semi-custom "fancy sheds" which I have lost. I want to get something that can basically be delivered by giant forklift or crane into my back yard that's like 12x12, insulated, electrified, window, to-be-air-conditioned, etc. to use as a work from home office. Anyone have any suggestions or personal experience with these before I go off and see who has paid Google the most money?

It's regional... I was dealing with these guys https://pleasantrunstructures.com/ but never ended up paying them for anything but plans. I got denied zoning permission to install one unless I wanted to spend a poo poo ton of money on some permitting stuff (minimum permit cost was at least $10k and a year of time... yay wetlands)

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

devicenull posted:

It's regional... I was dealing with these guys https://pleasantrunstructures.com/ but never ended up paying them for anything but plans. I got denied zoning permission to install one unless I wanted to spend a poo poo ton of money on some permitting stuff (minimum permit cost was at least $10k and a year of time... yay wetlands)

Ah, got it. That makes sense. I sort of assumed there were national chains of these companies. Thankfully it's not wetlands in my back yard, it's a pre-existing cement pad. I'll ask around locally. I'm in Los Angeles county if anyone coming along has any ideas locally. :v:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Shifty Pony posted:

Weber uses regular burners on the side, the sear function is integrated into the grill part.

I have been very pleased with my propane Genesis for the last ten years. Nothing needed beyond the stuff you'd expect like new grates, heat distribution bars, and new casters thanks to the Texas sun baking the rubber off the old ones. It shows absolutely no sign of slowing down anytime soon, but if a tree fell on it or something I wouldn't hesitate to get another Weber.

The biggest deal with Weber is that parts exist and will exist 10 years from now. None of that will be available for a no name grill from a big box store so you'll be throwing the whole thing out in 6-10 years when you can't find basic wear/repair parts.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Big brand names made in North America are really the only ones that interest me, like Weber, Vermont, Napoleon, BroilKing (family). Before I was 40 I bought on price and features. I won't do that anymore.

The Broil king I have now has been made for something like 30 years.

That said, does anyone know who makes the Kirkland (Costco) grills? Passing glance looks a lot like a Napoleon.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

StormDrain posted:

Next time, put the top sheet in first. I know. It seems wrong. It's heavy. It's harder. It's the right way.

The top sheet should support the outside edge of the ceiling drywall, and when they're nice and tight it doesn't crack. Ideal you don't screw off the ceiling drywall close either so if the structure moves it'll flex and maintain a close relationship with the walls.

Also go pick up a box of drywall mud to finish the rest. When you mention it hardening I know you must be using 45 minute hot mud. It's very nice to have on hand, but the mixed box is more forgiving, ready to use, and will last through the job even if you do 10 coats over the next month. It's also dirt cheap. Looks to be about $13 local to me. Mix it up, add a bit of water to loosen it for finishing.


Just want to say you were right on all counts. The box of mud was not only easier to work with but longer lasting than the hot mud, and gave a smoother finish. I also picked up a "corner tool" while I was buying it and that thing paid for itself easily. I added a little water to the mud and sealed it up for next weekend where I will hopefully be doing more of a skim coat and doing finish sanding for painting. All the taping is done now at least.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp
Hot mud does have its place. The big difference is it doesn't shrink as if hardens. Premix shrinks as it hardens because it dries out. Hot mud sets as a chemical reaction. So if you're pre-filling a big gap hot mud is the way to go.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Vim Fuego posted:

Hot mud does have its place. The big difference is it doesn't shrink as if hardens. Premix shrinks as it hardens because it dries out. Hot mud sets as a chemical reaction. So if you're pre-filling a big gap hot mud is the way to go.

Well I hosed up then because I used the premix to fill the gap along the top.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Vim Fuego posted:

Hot mud does have its place. The big difference is it doesn't shrink as if hardens. Premix shrinks as it hardens because it dries out. Hot mud sets as a chemical reaction. So if you're pre-filling a big gap hot mud is the way to go.

Hot mud is excellent for patching, especially on your first coat. Not only fast and non-shrinking, it's really strong.

It sands hard, doesn't sponge at all. So if I have time I like using light premix for my final coat(s).

SpartanIvy posted:

Well I hosed up then because I used the premix to fill the gap along the top.

You'll be fine. Just see how it looks tomorrow. If it's a big gap/shrink just do a light coat of hot mud to fill it in before you continue.

You're learning this the hard way, the way we all do.

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