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mekyabetsu posted:I could use some recommendations for a dremel tool. I would mainly use it for hobbyist stuff like cutting/filing plastic, modding consoles (so, more plastic), maybe some light sanding and sharpening. This is all pretty light stuff, but I wouldn't mind having something a little more medium-duty, on the off chance I find it useful. Are the Dremel name brand tools still a decent buy? Right now, I'm looking at the Dremel 4000 which I can get off Amazon for about $75. I like the Ryobi ones. But they’re mostly all the same and bits/etc are largely interchangeable. There hasn’t been all that much innovation in the rotary tool space over the past like 15 years, unless you count Lithium batteries that recharge over USB as groundbreaking
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Jul 24, 2023 18:17
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Anybody have like reviving a "dead" Ryobi battery? I left a 4AH battery in an LED light too long and my best guess is it drained it so far that the charger can't even detect it's a battery anymore. Using a multimeter between the + and - contacts I get a few millivolts, vs around 18 on a working battery. I've tried the trick where you connect the + from a live battery to the + on the dead battery, and same with the - to -, but nothing there. I'm just wondering if there's some other step I need to take or if that should work and it just means my battery is extra dead. And, uh, do you have to register Ryobi batteries for the warranty? Fairly certain I got this one at Home Depot and have an emailed receipt for proof of purchase, but I never registered it or anything.
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Jul 24, 2023 18:35
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mekyabetsu posted:I could use some recommendations for a dremel tool. I would mainly use it for hobbyist stuff like cutting/filing plastic, modding consoles (so, more plastic), maybe some light sanding and sharpening. This is all pretty light stuff, but I wouldn't mind having something a little more medium-duty, on the off chance I find it useful. Are the Dremel name brand tools still a decent buy? Right now, I'm looking at the Dremel 4000 which I can get off Amazon for about $75. Any corded dremel is fine, what you really want to look into is bits. There's a million different options for different materials and purposes so think about what you're going to use it for and buy accordingly. If you don't already know, look into the difference between abrasives (sandpaper, grinders) and cutting tools. Most people go straight for the abrasives but I get way more use out of bur cutters on non-metal materials. At least until some jackass dulls the poo poo of them and puts them back in the tool box.
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Jul 24, 2023 18:41
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Most people go straight for the abrasives but I get way more use out of bur cutters on non-metal materials. At least until some jackass dulls the poo poo of them and puts them back in the tool box. Big fan of burrs, at least when using them on wood. I got a Kutzall set recently and -- even though I probably overpaid -- they really do perform extremely well.
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Jul 24, 2023 21:04
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FISHMANPET posted:Anybody have like reviving a "dead" Ryobi battery? I left a 4AH battery in an LED light too long and my best guess is it drained it so far that the charger can't even detect it's a battery anymore. Using a multimeter between the + and - contacts I get a few millivolts, vs around 18 on a working battery. I've tried the trick where you connect the + from a live battery to the + on the dead battery, and same with the - to -, but nothing there. I'm just wondering if there's some other step I need to take or if that should work and it just means my battery is extra dead. https://www.ryobitools.com/support/contact Contact them by email, chat, or phone. Have your HD receipt ready. They should take care of everything. Should be a 3 year warranty on the batteries just like the tools. Actually for batteries, I'd think you're still better off online, but if you're going by phone, you might try 877-655-5250 since that's their direct replacement line. BeAuMaN fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jul 24, 2023 |
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Jul 24, 2023 21:35
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FISHMANPET posted:Anybody have like reviving a "dead" Ryobi battery? I left a 4AH battery in an LED light too long and my best guess is it drained it so far that the charger can't even detect it's a battery anymore. Using a multimeter between the + and - contacts I get a few millivolts, vs around 18 on a working battery. I've tried the trick where you connect the + from a live battery to the + on the dead battery, and same with the - to -, but nothing there. I'm just wondering if there's some other step I need to take or if that should work and it just means my battery is extra dead. One of the individual cells in the pack might be toast which means the whole thing is basically toast. If it's under warranty then you're probably good.
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Jul 24, 2023 22:09
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Sorry for the double post, but we've had the same blade in our Ryobi 40v mower for probably more than 3 season now without any replacement and I finally got a new blade and replaced it today. I'm assuming the old blade is too far gone for sharpening to do anything, especially with this huge gouge out of one side:  Assuming it is too far gone, are these things worth anything to anyone? I don't even need to make any money off of it, just feels silly to throw away a perfectly good hunk of metal.
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Jul 24, 2023 22:12
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That isn't even close to being too bad to sharpen. You can keep sharpening those things down to 2/3 of their width or less. The real question is is it worth sharpening? If you don't have what you need to do it you may pay as much as a new blade to get it done. It's pretty location specific so call around to some mower shops and see.
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Jul 24, 2023 22:15
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Got an angle grinder? Lotta meat left on that. 
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Jul 24, 2023 22:23
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Put a sanding flapper on an angle grinder and go to town. The flapper won't heat the blade like a grinding disc will or take all day like a file.
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Jul 24, 2023 22:36
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Coarse flapwheel disk and try to keep it balanced with how much you take off each side. Now you have a sharpened spare.
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Jul 24, 2023 23:20
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I just sharpen mine on a bench grinder and I'm happy with em
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Jul 24, 2023 23:31
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Too good for a big hand file???
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Jul 24, 2023 23:35
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The cutting edge to me looks like it's a different piece then the rest of the blade... did they only harden the cutting bit?
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Jul 25, 2023 00:50
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devicenull posted:The cutting edge to me looks like it's a different piece then the rest of the blade... did they only harden the cutting bit? No, you're looking at use. And home gamer blades are cheap consumables that are often just case hardened after sharpening. Better/commercial blades are better grades of steel and fully heat treated. For home use even a formerly case hardened blade touched up a couple times a year with a bench grinder/flap wheel is gonna do great.
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Jul 25, 2023 00:58
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I have a nice bench grinder I got for cheap. I'd like to take off one of the wheels and swap in a belt sander. Does anyone have a belt sander attachment they can recommend? Preferably 1" or 2". The internet is lousy with cheap complete belt sanders or sketchy angle grinder kits, but ideally I'd like something reasonably priced that doesn't require more tabletop space. Alternatively, does anyone have a set of plans they can recommend?
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Jul 25, 2023 01:05
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HolHorsejob posted:I have a nice bench grinder I got for cheap. I'd like to take off one of the wheels and swap in a belt sander. Does anyone have a belt sander attachment they can recommend? Preferably 1" or 2". The internet is lousy with cheap complete belt sanders or sketchy angle grinder kits, but ideally I'd like something reasonably priced that doesn't require more tabletop space. I think bench grinders are generally very low torque so it might not have the ability to run a belt sander, unless belt sanders don't need nearly as much torque as I'm imagining? At least that's the impression I got from the Project Farm review of bench grinders which seemed to show them having difficulty starting up when there was even very light resistance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqEUox4Q6fs
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Jul 25, 2023 01:14
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Danhenge posted:Sorry for the double post, but we've had the same blade in our Ryobi 40v mower for probably more than 3 season now without any replacement and I finally got a new blade and replaced it today. I'm assuming the old blade is too far gone for sharpening to do anything, especially with this huge gouge out of one side: Angle grinder, dremel, even a disc sander with 60# or even 80# right on the mower. edit: Mmm Hmm. 
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Jul 25, 2023 01:50
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Saw that the harbor freight parking lot sale was going on today, so I went down to the closest one. Found out they had sold out of the 56" boxes entirely, just the floor model left, which they will sell when there aren't any others and usually discount severely. Walked out of there for under $1k. It's not nearly as nice and heavy gauge steel/reinforcements as the ICON line, but I'm okay with that. This is largely going to be specialty/occasional use tool storage. It should hold up just fine for my needs. The 16" side lockers are $149 if you can find them. Unfortunately all the ones close to me are sold out - I'd be driving an hour and half each way to get one (or two). I may do that tomorrow - I'll have to see what kind of mood I'm in.
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Jul 25, 2023 20:49
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 Table saw work continues. I'm working on wiring up a replacement motor, but I'm not certain how I'm going to mount it. The diameter looks close enough that I could clamp it to the motor mount, but the bolt holes on the new one are on a flanged face, while the old one appears to have bolt holes on the diameter. Does anyone sell motor mount adapters? Are ac motor form factors standard enough that this exists? Or is this something I have to cook up custom? The motor datasheet includes a mechanical drawing, so I can make my own, but I'd need to find someone with a press brake.
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Jul 25, 2023 20:51
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HolHorsejob posted:
NEMA and IEC both have a set of standards for motor mounts, and adapters are available. If I wasn’t phone posting, I’d toss in some links.
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Jul 25, 2023 21:30
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LightRailTycoon posted:NEMA and IEC both have a set of standards for motor mounts, and adapters are available. If I wasn’t phone posting, I’d toss in some links. Thanks for the tip. I googled up and down, but I couldn't find anything that was quite what I needed, and definitely not in my price range. This is the new motor in question. It's a 1.5 hp WEG single-phase motor in a NEMA 56C package. The datasheet is lovely, very little is missing. Conveniently, a nice mechanical drawing is included.  This is the table saw's original motor. The motor's base is bolted to an adjustable mount on the table saw's housing that provides positioning and tension for the belt. According to the exploded parts diagram, this motor's base is removable from the stator....  Here is the original motor's base. I had to trim some wires, but this 65 year old motor's wiring is rotted to poo poo and will all need to be redone anyway if I want to use it for something else. Intriguingly, the original motor's diameter at the point of mounting is roughly 6.5"; tantalizingly close to the OD of a NEMA 56 motor. It's a shame the only screws around the circumference of the new motor are 8-32, otherwise I'd drill some clearance holes in the original motor base and call it day. Since this base is made of cast iron, I should be able to file the casting if it's too tight, or shim it if it's too loose. I'm not sure what my next move will be. Screwing the new motor directly to the original base would require either drilling & tapping new holes in its casing, or widening the existing tapped holes. I'm not keen on either one, as this would put metal swarf inside the new motor's body, and I don't have the tools to get into the housing without destroying anything. Another option would be to pop off the warts the capacitors live in, seal those holes with a flush-fitting cover, and run 6" hose clamps around the body of the new motor. I don't love this idea, but I'd try it if I don't figure out something better, Alternatively, I could try making something like the original stator band and modifying the base to attach it. I think my work has some spring steel sheet stock laying around. Any way I stack it, it looks like there will be some fab involved in making this work. Suggestions are welcome tl;dr The old motor mount isn't a drop-in fit for the new motor, and I need to modify the mount, the motor, or both to strap this thing in.
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Jul 26, 2023 07:21
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The idea would be to use carriage bolts (and square holes on a top plate) and then offset the heads of the bolts with a plate with bigger holes. Drill through both plates to attach to the frame, adjust using the slots in the motor. Remember to use lock washers. That's how I'd fabricobble it together, there are likely better ideas. E: no idea if my explanation makes any sense when rereading it but I tried. E: next post has a significantly better idea 
deimos fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Jul 26, 2023 |
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Jul 26, 2023 14:34
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I think the craftsman is likely a nema 56 foot mount. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/nema-electrical-motor-frame-dimensions-d_1504.html there may be something like this available. https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/motors/ac_motors/ac_motors_accessories/mta2-base-56 LightRailTycoon fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Jul 26, 2023 |
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Jul 26, 2023 14:39
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Tormek T-8 black is here, sharpening needs covered for (at least) the next 50 years. Time to 3d print some jigs.
deimos fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jul 27, 2023 |
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Jul 27, 2023 23:30
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Drill Press Wheels This bastard weighs 150 lbs, so it is a real pain in the rear end to move. I want to add a pair of wheels so that it can be tipped back and rolled around. The idea is that when upright, the wheels won't be touching the ground. I don't want to add any wobble. Putting the wheels in front would be a lot more convenient for backing it up against a wall, but I think I will put them in the back where I'm less likely to trip over them. 
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Jul 28, 2023 06:09
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ryanrs posted:Drill Press Wheels Good luck, but holy hell that sounds dangerous as poo poo. Moving the headstock on those things makes me sympathize with the dudes in the godfather that set up the shot with the severed horse head. At my last shop, we cut thick, wide plywood circles and affixed tall fab tools to them. To move them, you bear-hugged the tool and rotated it to scoot it around. Worked a treat; it took work to lose control of
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Jul 28, 2023 06:21
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Why not make a base and give it four wheels? Can do the ones with levelers for extra sturdiness.
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Jul 28, 2023 06:25
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Casters will wobble. It's very top-heavy. Maybe it's not 150 lbs and that's just shipping weight or something? I haven't actually weighed my drill press. It's heavy enough that I can't just pick it up or easily drag it around. But grabbing the top and leaning it onto the floor, or lifting it back upright is not hard. I don't think it's a huge safety hazard (like you're not going to get pinned under the machine or anything).
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Jul 28, 2023 06:39
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These kind of casters are cool. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-workbench-caster-kit-with-quick-release-plates Build a little base for it to sit on and install the casters. In the up position, your base rests flat on the ground. Step on the caster to lift it up and roll away. Peep the customer photos for people using a bar to tie the lift mechanisms together so one step lifts up two casters at once.
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Jul 28, 2023 06:57
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Yeah, I've seen similar products on Amazon for $30-40 for a 4-pack. I'm not sure if the Rockler ones are better, or just more expensive. It looks like they might have come from the same factory. Hmm.
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Jul 28, 2023 07:04
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I have that same drill press, at work. When it needs to be moved, I just grab it by the head and wobble it back and forth till it gets to where it needs to be.
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Jul 28, 2023 12:40
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A hand truck is like $80 at harbor freight.
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Jul 28, 2023 13:18
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gently caress that's expensive for a hand truck.
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Jul 28, 2023 13:54
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Do you have a pallet jack? Bolting it to a pallet would raise it a little and increase the footprint, and also stability a little bit. Works great for my table saw.
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Jul 28, 2023 13:57
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Have you thought about installing a crane? It would make it easy to move anything around the shop
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Jul 28, 2023 14:11
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His Divine Shadow posted:gently caress that's expensive for a hand truck. Everything is expensive now. The $80 (800lbs) one is the middle price one they have cheaper ones at $60 and the better ones at $110. I think HD has a 250lbs hand truck for $50 but once you have one you tend to use it for everything.
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Jul 28, 2023 14:39
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Costco has a really nice convertible one from Cosco. I use it for everything.
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Jul 28, 2023 15:14
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Rufio posted:Have you thought about installing a crane? It would make it easy to move anything around the shop A gantry crane is pretty handy to have around if you have a spot for it and a high enough ceiling in your shop. Great for splitting tractors and pulling engines.
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Jul 28, 2023 15:20
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SpeedFreek posted:A gantry crane is pretty handy to have around if you have a spot for it and a high enough ceiling in your shop. Great for splitting tractors and pulling engines.
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Jul 28, 2023 15:48
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