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Sagebrush posted:that's some wacky poo poo to print on an FDM
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Aug 12, 2023 23:16
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| # ? May 29, 2024 14:02 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjhmXzvbyfA "Hey lets do some testing of how to deal with resin printing" Not exactly science. But, a fun video.
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Aug 12, 2023 23:22
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Can I offer you an egg in this trying time?  No? How about a skeleton dragon?   god I love this printer. - egg came out basically perfect, weird bottom errors aside - I did learn that you can't do 2 prints in a row with my printer, it doesn't reset 0,0 properly. Always shut it off when you finish a print! - using a raft with the dragon was a stupid move, removing it from the dragon was so much harder than it needed to be, and I wound up removing an arm as well.  fortunately it fits the aesthetic and if I get excited I can glue it back on.- I am ready to use any other color, white is fun but temperamental and any marks are going to be visible on it forever. Next up is a blue, unless I get swayed by trying my sparkly purple...
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Aug 13, 2023 01:19
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Dang that rolly handle for the shrink wrap is brilliant.
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Aug 13, 2023 02:43
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StrixNebulosa posted:Can I offer you an egg in this trying time? with a bit of tuning you can get those prints looking MUCH better. They look nice, but the potential is there
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Aug 13, 2023 02:56
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Was having issues getting consistent ABS prints on my Voron and was gonna sell it and pick up an X1C. Decided to throw some PLA on it and getting nothing but perfect prints with it lol. Think I’ll keep it and maybe get the P1P -> P1S upgrade kit if I want to print ABS. The voron printing PLA isn’t quite as fast as the P1P but it’s no slouch either. Same test cube print on the P1P that takes 26 mins is about 30 minutes on the Voron. Feels good to have it printing again and the large bed size is awesome again.
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Aug 13, 2023 20:39
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How often are people using glue sticks on their P1P plates? Apparently it's recommended as a release agent?
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Aug 13, 2023 21:05
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BlackIronHeart posted:How often are people using glue sticks on their P1P plates? Apparently it's recommended as a release agent? X1C uses the same plates. Always if I'm using the Bambu cool or engineering plates, it just makes it easier. But the pro move is a third party PEI plate, which means no glue. I also have a Whambam PEX plate, which also doesn't need glue.
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Aug 13, 2023 21:33
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snail posted:But the pro move is a third party PEI plate, which means no glue. I also have a Whambam PEX plate, which also doesn't need glue. Yep, I have a handful of the aftermarket plates from AliExpress that I really like a lot. The various patterned ones are kind of neat too, and I do a lot of printing on the "carbon fiber" version, but that's honestly more due to its performance as a build surface than to the pattern itself.
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Aug 13, 2023 22:14
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BlackIronHeart posted:How often are people using glue sticks on their P1P plates? Apparently it's recommended as a release agent? I have gone through almost/if not more 50 rolls of PLA on my P1P with the included textured plate and have never used glue stick and have never had adhesion issues.
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Aug 13, 2023 22:42
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mattfl posted:I have gone through almost/if not more 50 rolls of PLA on my P1P with the included textured plate and have never used glue stick and have never had adhesion issues. The only time I've had any issues with the default Bambu textured plate is when I let it get a little dusty, and that was only when printing with metallic silk PLA. A quick clean with a barely damp paper towel was enough to get it perfect again. I don't print anything but PLA-related filament, but I've gone through half a dozen rolls and have done zero maintenance on my P1P or the plate. For light-duty ease-of-use, the P1P is spectacular.
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Aug 13, 2023 22:57
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mattfl posted:Was having issues getting consistent ABS prints on my Voron and was gonna sell it and pick up an X1C. Decided to throw some PLA on it and getting nothing but perfect prints with it lol. Think I’ll keep it and maybe get the P1P -> P1S upgrade kit if I want to print ABS. The voron printing PLA isn’t quite as fast as the P1P but it’s no slouch either. Same test cube print on the P1P that takes 26 mins is about 30 minutes on the Voron. Feels good to have it printing again and the large bed size is awesome again. I have the exact opposite problem (e: on my Voron), PLA has heat creep issues (100% a hotend issue) but all higher temp filaments print stupid fast and well as long as I calibrate the filaments. Generally I deimos fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Aug 14, 2023 |
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Aug 13, 2023 23:12
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deimos posted:I have the exact opposite problem, PLA has heat creep issues (100% a hotend issue) but all higher temp filaments print stupid fast and we'll as long as I calibrate the filaments. Generally I print per brand/type/color. Did you enclosure your P1P? My brother enclosed his and can't print PLA without having clogging issues unless he opens the top and the doors.
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Aug 13, 2023 23:13
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I got a few strips of COB Led lights, 24v. What's the best way to get them hooked up to a Neptune 2S? I read you can wire them in straight to the PSU but, uh, I'm thinking I prefer to not mess with that and maybe have a safe way to turn them off if need be?
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Aug 13, 2023 23:28
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mattfl posted:Did you enclosure your P1P? My brother enclosed his and can't print PLA without having clogging issues unless he opens the top and the doors. I have a 350mm Voron. I print PLA with the doors open, but the dragon creeps like a mofo, usually only a problem on 6+ hour prints (which, at my speeds, are usually big prints) deimos fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Aug 14, 2023 |
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Aug 14, 2023 00:52
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deimos posted:I have a 350mm Voron. I print with the doors open, but the dragon creeps like a mofo. Ohhh my bad, I thought you were saying you can’t print PLA with a P1P lol. Ya I’ve heard the dragon has that problem, I’ve got the new Revo HF in mine.
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Aug 14, 2023 00:55
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mattfl posted:Ohhh my bad, I thought you were saying you can’t print PLA with a P1P lol. I have had a rapido for a while now, but r2 came out and wanted to do that.. While also wanting to do the mgn12 x axis upgrade... Oh the pin mod looks good... And the hartk z joints... Then tap came out... Soo I have done none of the upgrades. Gonna get off my rear end and print the entire gantry parts again in PC-CF, I have to anyways because I cracked one of the x joints when I overtightened it. And might as well get the z axis printed as well to bring it up to R2 specs. I'd do revo but I have some tungsten carbide v6 nozzles so I am married to that form factor.
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Aug 14, 2023 01:01
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The Rapido 2 Plus has some production issues, mainly with the PT1000 thermistors being doa. You can fix this by getting an extra M4 PT1000 and swap them out, but I'd wait on the Rapido 2 Plus if you can.
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Aug 14, 2023 01:06
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I bought a 0.6mm CHT nozzle for my sovol, excited to really push the bastard Aaaaand after like two hours of loving with it, I come to realize that the CHT has a lower profile than the stock volcano, causing the nozzle to actually sit shy of the fan shroud, which means I can’t actually use it Ha ha Cool.
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Aug 14, 2023 02:48
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Serenade posted:The Rapido 2 Plus has some production issues, mainly with the PT1000 thermistors being doa. You can fix this by getting an extra M4 PT1000 and swap them out, but I'd wait on the Rapido 2 Plus if you can. I have an original rapido  E: oh a few hours later I thought back on this... On my earlier post I meant I had to do the 'v2.4 R2 upgrades. deimos fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Aug 14, 2023 |
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Aug 14, 2023 04:38
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Sockser posted:I bought a 0.6mm CHT nozzle for my sovol, excited to really push the bastard Try this little fella out. https://www.printables.com/model/418096-sv06-plus-fan-duct-regular-volcano
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Aug 14, 2023 11:37
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Is it possible for the curing lights to go bad on an older resin printer? I have a creality ldr-200h from 2020 and I've been having nonstop issues with stuff sticking to the FEP I tried changing the FEP, exposure times and a variety of similar reasons that give me no issues in my Saturn 2. Was wondering if there's a point where I just say screw it and get another one. No point in getting parts for it give it's a 2k machine.
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Aug 14, 2023 11:54
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Rad-daddio posted:Is it possible for the curing lights to go bad on an older resin printer? Both the curing lights and the masking screen will die with use, yes. Since 2020 is pretty quick for that to happen unless this printer has been running pretty much nonstop, buuuuut given it’s a creality I’m gonna guess they aren’t using the most consistent and reliable parts.
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Aug 14, 2023 12:37
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Yeah, I looked into the cost for a screen and a light board and it's looking like a no.
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Aug 14, 2023 12:49
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Quick question, is there a good repository of imperial and metric thread STLs for nuts and bolts? I can usually find what I'm looking for on Thingiverse, but that typically requires me to search around and then edit a part to get what I want. I see someone has made a 'customizer' on Thingiverse where you can put in the space between threads, the thread depth, etc to generate your own threading, but what I'm looking for is either some pre-made ones for known threads or the pre-made numbers to throw into the customizer to get what I want. For example, if I want to print something that screws like a nut onto a threaded rod, I'd like to be able to just look at the tag for the rod, see it's a 7/16"-14 and plug that in somewhere to get a STL of the rod threading.
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Aug 14, 2023 13:59
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Bobulus posted:Quick question, is there a good repository of imperial and metric thread STLs for nuts and bolts? I can usually find what I'm looking for on Thingiverse, but that typically requires me to search around and then edit a part to get what I want. I see someone has made a 'customizer' on Thingiverse where you can put in the space between threads, the thread depth, etc to generate your own threading, but what I'm looking for is either some pre-made ones for known threads or the pre-made numbers to throw into the customizer to get what I want. You want to use a proper CAD system for this. Fortunately within the last few years, it’s gotten much easier to modify mesh files with engineering/manufacturing details. I’d import the mesh file to Onshape, which is free: https://cad.onshape.com/ Here’s some documentation on the importing process: https://cad.onshape.com/help/Content/mixedmodeling.htm You’ll be able to make threaded holes using the Hole feature: https://cad.onshape.com/help/Content/hole.htm If you’re using FDM, use captured nuts or heat set inserts if you plan on being able to disassemble and reassemble your thing more than once.
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Aug 14, 2023 14:17
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I think we're talking about different things. I can very easily add holes to models. And if I have the mesh/stl of a threaded bolt, it's simple to add or subtract it from a model to be printed. What I'm asking about is a repository of threaded bolts of different sizes that I can reference when I'm making a model.
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Aug 14, 2023 14:43
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If I want to get into designing my own prints, is it better to get familiarity with CAD software or just something like Blender with the units updated for 3D printing? I had some passing experience with Solidworks, in high school, well over a dozen years ago by now. Probably not exactly applicable to today.
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Aug 14, 2023 14:44
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Bobulus posted:Quick question, is there a good repository of imperial and metric thread STLs for nuts and bolts? I can usually find what I'm looking for on Thingiverse, but that typically requires me to search around and then edit a part to get what I want. I see someone has made a 'customizer' on Thingiverse where you can put in the space between threads, the thread depth, etc to generate your own threading, but what I'm looking for is either some pre-made ones for known threads or the pre-made numbers to throw into the customizer to get what I want. So Blender and Fusion have built in bolt sizes where you can basically pick the size of bolt you want and it will generate the model, is that what you're talking about?
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Aug 14, 2023 15:01
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mattfl posted:So Blender and Fusion have built in bolt sizes where you can basically pick the size of bolt you want and it will generate the model, is that what you're talking about? Yeah. I haven't played around with those, only used simpler CAD software. Guess that explains why no one is providing it another way! Thanks.
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Aug 14, 2023 15:05
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Bobulus posted:I think we're talking about different things. I can very easily add holes to models. And if I have the mesh/stl of a threaded bolt, it's simple to add or subtract it from a model to be printed. I would just look up stuff on this site, if you click on the ID number to the left of the price on any of those listings there's a download a PDF of that item's dimensions/threads and also 3D models in a couple of different formats too. https://www.mcmaster.com/
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Aug 14, 2023 15:17
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I was very pleased (and a little surprised) to find that Fusion 360 has British Standard Pipe threads in its library. I was looking to make some temporary storage caps for a couple of hydraulic parts here at work, because we don't normally have BSP stuff come through, and was able to model and print everything I needed in very short order. I am also not at all proficient with F360 by any measure, so the fact that I was able to do it in the first place without much trouble was kind of a Big Deal. Also, in case anyone was wondering, PLA seems to be impervious to MIL-H-5606 hydraulic fluid. I let a test piece sit completely submerged for almost two full months and it didn't even come out a little bit sticky.
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Aug 14, 2023 15:18
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Bobulus posted:I think we're talking about different things. I can very easily add holes to models. And if I have the mesh/stl of a threaded bolt, it's simple to add or subtract it from a model to be printed. You can use Mcmaster-Carr for this. Most all of their hardware had a section where you can download a 3d model of the hardware. Just DL the .iges or .step model into your CAD software of choice. Even their Solidworks models come with a fully defined feature tray. I use this method almost every week.
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Aug 14, 2023 15:19
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Yeah, I really need to sit down and learn Fusion. I've been getting away with using TinkerCAD because it's convenient to have my models in a web interface where I can design something at work and then print it when I get home, but the added capabilities of Fusion mean I really should just bite the bullet and do it.
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Aug 14, 2023 16:03
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Bobulus posted:Yeah, I really need to sit down and learn Fusion. I've been getting away with using TinkerCAD because it's convenient to have my models in a web interface where I can design something at work and then print it when I get home, but the added capabilities of Fusion mean I really should just bite the bullet and do it. You and me both. I've done some ~real poo poo~ with tinkercad though.
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Aug 14, 2023 16:07
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Bobulus posted:Yeah, I really need to sit down and learn Fusion. I've been getting away with using TinkerCAD because it's convenient to have my models in a web interface where I can design something at work and then print it when I get home, but the added capabilities of Fusion mean I really should just bite the bullet and do it. Fusion is great for CAD, especially if you don't use it professionally. They have a lot of good plug ins that seem really useful too. It's also better at working with mesh files natively, as opposed to other parametric modelers. You can also get a "maker's" version of Solidworks that costs 9.99 usd a month iirc.
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Aug 14, 2023 16:23
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snail posted:X1C uses the same plates. Always if I'm using the Bambu cool or engineering plates, it just makes it easier. I have the Whambam plate too, my only issue was that I needed brims on a lot of things, they had a tendency to either come loose or corners would peel up. I got the Bambu textured PEI plate they recently came out with (the gold one), and that one is nuts. It’s probably the grippiest plate I’ve ever used.
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Aug 14, 2023 16:36
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Macichne Leainig posted:If I want to get into designing my own prints, is it better to get familiarity with CAD software or just something like Blender with the units updated for 3D printing? If you want to make functional mechanical parts, Fusion. If you want to make sculptural things and artistic pieces, blender. The basic modeling functionality of solidworks is the same as it was a dozen years ago, and fusion uses a similar modeling technique, so you might find it easier to pick up then you expect.
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Aug 14, 2023 21:00
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Sagebrush posted:If you want to make functional mechanical parts, Fusion. If you want to make sculptural things and artistic pieces, blender. This is how I started out, learning Fusion (after many, many years away from any real CAD software) but I've recently begun branching out into Blender. Why? So I can modify models I find or receive. You'll undoubtedly find something cool on Thingiverse or Printables and it's going to be a horror show or maybe just not quite right for your purposes. Blender will have a much easier time modifying a mesh than Fusion will.
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Aug 14, 2023 21:37
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| # ? May 29, 2024 14:02 |
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So I've gotten the idea in my head over the weekend after seeing an action figure system called Glyos... Does anyone in this thread use 3d printing to make their own little figures and the like? I'm researching this and since we have a crafts forum I thought I'd check here too. If this is the wrong thread, I apologize!
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Aug 14, 2023 23:17
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