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I have a few rolls getting to the really low mark. I plan to load them all on the ams, allow switching and just print a long rear end dragon and it switches where it switches. The one I am printing now is allegedly just under 8' long
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Aug 18, 2023 13:49
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Roundboy posted:I have a few rolls getting to the really low mark. I plan to load them all on the ams, allow switching and just print a long rear end dragon and it switches where it switches. This is one of the best uses of the AMS that's rarely talked about. Got a bunch of rolls with hardly any filament left on them? Throw them in the AMS, mark them all as the same color and hit print. I like to do this with stuff that's going to get painted anyways so color doesn't matter. No more throwing away that last little bit of filament or finding some little trinket to print and hoping it doesn't run out.
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Aug 18, 2023 13:52
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mattfl posted:This is one of the best uses of the AMS that's rarely talked about.
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Aug 18, 2023 17:08
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So our quality guy at work just bought a Bambu Labs X1-Carbon. It's sweet as hell but $1500. I've always toyed with the idea of getting a printer and seeing this thing in action makes me want one even more, but I kind of feel like I'd use it for a month and then it would sit and collect dust... meaning $1500 is hard to justify. BUT - looking on Sunlu's website, they have a number of smaller, less-cool models for a couple of hundred dollars, and that's a lot more enticing and easier to justify. I'd use a 3D printer for two main purposes: miniatures (I'm into Battletech as well as the Call of Cthulhu roleplaying game) and car parts (have a number of old cars and could use it to print trim pieces or whatever I need). I have a big advantage in being able to use Solidworks very well, so I can design just about anything I might need. I think this would push me towards a resin printer. Am I getting into yet another expensive hobby that I'm going to drop after a few months? What's a good starter resin printer that doesn't suck? I know it isn't a resin printer, but would this be an awful idea? It's so cheap... Or this one which may serve me and my purposes better?
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Aug 18, 2023 19:41
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CornHolio posted:So our quality guy at work just bought a Bambu Labs X1-Carbon. It's sweet as hell but $1500. I've always toyed with the idea of getting a printer and seeing this thing in action makes me want one even more, but I kind of feel like I'd use it for a month and then it would sit and collect dust... meaning $1500 is hard to justify. If you're interested in Bambu, they have 2 other models that are lower in price with specs to match the lower cost. The next step down is the P1S which has most of the features the X1C does but at $699 and then the P1P at $599 for even less. You can get combo version of the P1S like the X1C which includes the AMS for $949. Regarding Sunlu printers, never used them, much less hearing of people using them as they're just Ender clones like all the others. Resin I'm even less help with but if miniatures are your thing, then those types of printers excel at it for the quality at the small size.
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Aug 18, 2023 20:00
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CornHolio posted:Am I getting into yet another expensive hobby that I'm going to drop after a few months? What's a good starter resin printer that doesn't suck? I know it isn't a resin printer, but would this be an awful idea? It's so cheap... Or this one which may serve me and my purposes better? Nobody but you can answer the first question. There’s more variation in FDM printers than in resin. Resin printers are basically a light, a screen, a plate, and a motor to move that plate up and down. FDM printers have a lot more options for how to construct one. Bambu is very well known right now and has a good rep for just working out of the box, vs a lot of cheap FDM printers which will likely need some modding to work well/reliably. The downside of Bambu is that they’re very closed, where the rest of the industry is pretty open - so if you have problems you MUST go to Bambu instead of being able to figure out a fix from published information. That might be a pro or a con, depending on your personality. I wouldn’t get a cheap FDM printer unless I was prepared to gently caress with it a bit, honestly. As it is, IMO the best cheap bed slinger on the market right now is the Sovol SV06/Plus, which is only a little more expensive than the Sunlu. I’ve also heard good things about the latest models in the Elegoo Neptune line. I also wouldn’t get a Bambu unless I was pretty sure I was going to get some good use out of it, though I will note that you could bring the price down a bit by going with the P1S which they just released that has most of the biggest features of the X1C for considerably cheaper.
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Aug 18, 2023 20:01
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The good news is that your ability to use Solidworks means you're already in a great place to design your own stuff and take full advantage of 3D printing. The bad news is that your two use cases (miniatures and car parts) make choosing a single machine basically impossible. You really want a resin printer for the minis and you really want a FDM printer for car parts. The Photon Mono X 6K would be a fantastic resin printer to start with, I've been printing 15mm scale T70 light tanks with mine this week. For car parts, especially trim parts, you'd want a larger format FDM printer like a Neptune 3 Plus or Max. E: Also we've got a 3D printing thread over in the trad games subforums. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959573 BlackIronHeart fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Aug 18, 2023 |
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Aug 18, 2023 20:02
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CornHolio posted:So our quality guy at work just bought a Bambu Labs X1-Carbon. It's sweet as hell but $1500. I've always toyed with the idea of getting a printer and seeing this thing in action makes me want one even more, but I kind of feel like I'd use it for a month and then it would sit and collect dust... meaning $1500 is hard to justify. If you want a good FDM printer on a budget, The Neptune 4 Pro or The Sovol SV06 Plus If you want to get into resin, be mindful that you're now dealing with hazmat, and there are lot of costs on top of the price tag on the machine itself. You'll want to get a wash and cure station, a good amount of PPE, a shitload of isopropyl alcohol, silicone mats to protect your work surface, and so on. However, if your primary use is printing minis, the quality of resin can't be beat. You will be super limited when printing larger things, like car trim pieces etc. As far as recommendations? They're all the fuckin same, honestly. Pick Elegoo or Photon and call it a day. With an FDM printer you kinda just buy some filament and go to town
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Aug 18, 2023 20:20
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The P1S plus AMS combo is the best deal in FDM printing The BS is that a P1S will print everything the X1 can, sans screen, and they want to charge you $500 for the privilege. The stuff coming to the X1 and not P1 series is really just a software limitation and horrible I can see myself getting another easily, and a larger version down the line would be a no brainer buy The fact nobody has wholesale copies the AMS design and made it work with klipper is a travesty. Now that the creality monstrosity is running full real klipper, it might be worth looking at if you can fix the hardware issues.
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Aug 18, 2023 23:33
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ERCF is the open source klipper equivalent of AMS in terms of functionality. (it predates AMS, to be clear) To add: There are others, trad rack, prusa mmu, snuff, etc. deimos fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Aug 19, 2023 |
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Aug 19, 2023 01:18
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Yes I have one but : It lacks a cohesive enclosure It lacks the retract functionality that seems to be key This requires the extruder gears to move, whereas the ams is all completely contained. Something like 2 dedicated motors to just move the filament around, a couple filament sensors etc I dunno if this is more firmware baked into the board or if klipper even has these extensions. Creality made the k1, I'm surprised there is no bastardized version of the ams
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Aug 19, 2023 01:30
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That delightful feeling when you find a print that's super repeatable, turns out a cute little lizard dude you love playing with, and then you realize you can have one in every color --  I'll get pictures of them out of their brim later and all together but I am super happy with these tiny little dudes. Perfect for desk play when I'm stuck on a call or watching a video.
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Aug 19, 2023 01:40
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Roundboy posted:
You're describing ERCF. AMS is an enclosed ERCF.
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Aug 19, 2023 01:48
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I got excited, here’s a shot of my little dudes so far!
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Aug 19, 2023 01:49
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StrixNebulosa posted:That delightful feeling when you find a print that's super repeatable, turns out a cute little lizard dude you love playing with, and then you realize you can have one in every color -- I love that you're having so much fun with this!  One suggestion - it's good that stuff does seem to be sticking down, but those brims should be cohesive units and not all spider-webby like that. Looks like your nozzle tip is still just a bit too far above the bed. I'd print another one of those, and while it's making that brim, use the (hopefully present on your control panel, anyway) live Z-offset adjustment to nudge it down until those brim lines start merging together.
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Aug 19, 2023 01:59
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Okay! I’ll try that with the next one.
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Aug 19, 2023 02:11
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Acid Reflux posted:I love that you're having so much fun with this! May not even need a brim once you get this calibrated.
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Aug 19, 2023 02:17
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My Voxel Pro has rafts turned on by default on all its profiles in flashprint and I hate it because unless you're doing small parts I don't find you need rafts or brims or anything like that
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Aug 19, 2023 02:39
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Welp, babies first resin print failure. Wish me luck.
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Aug 19, 2023 05:19
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Okay! It's a bit scruffy, and I haven't had time since my last post to do my calibration, but I wanted to report a success - the bear I printed last week was finally gifted to my mother and she loves it. She doesn't care about any weird layering or scruffiness, she just loves that it's a cute bear with some heft to it (printed at 50% infill) and she put it in her purse and I know it's going to decorate the kitchen.  e: I did remove the supports from its belly, don't worry. She has a properly free bear!
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Aug 19, 2023 20:30
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Threw a .6 nozzle in the P1P this weekend to print some glow in the dark PLA. https://imgur.com/gallery/EdAAWYq Worked like a champ! 
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Aug 20, 2023 23:15
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mattfl posted:Threw a .6 nozzle in the P1P this weekend to print some glow in the dark PLA. Yooo, that looks so good!
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Aug 20, 2023 23:20
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the glow makes it look smoooooooooth
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Aug 20, 2023 23:22
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Which glow? I looked long and hard for a flow pla that actually holds a flow for more then 30sec
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Aug 21, 2023 00:06
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Roundboy posted:Which glow? I looked long and hard for a flow pla that actually holds a flow for more then 30sec Mostly Overture with a little bit of Hatchbox once I ran out of the Overture. If you really wanna make glow in the dark PLA glow, hit it with a black light for a bit.
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Aug 21, 2023 00:27
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Those gimmicky, rainbow-pattern, pei-sheets are rad. Even the purge line gets a nice, rainbow-y underside. I've gotta see how it works with different colours, or if I should offset some parts by a layer to avoid the effect, so that I can have coasters with selective rainbow-ness. To anyone with 'em: Do they wear out fast? I imagine the rainbow-pattern effect is a lot more sensitive to wear than the textured carbon-fiber and etc effects.
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Aug 21, 2023 14:43
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SubNat posted:Those gimmicky, rainbow-pattern, pei-sheets are rad. Even the purge line gets a nice, rainbow-y underside. I have to imagine they wear out super fast, but I may just buy a couple to test out from ali. Wondering if I could get some done up with my companies logos on them for branding in the bottom of terrain. Are they just pei? Hmmmm, actually what about just laser engraving a textured plate with my logo? Barring any actual fume issues lasering the coating I have to think that would work out fine. w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Aug 21, 2023 |
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Aug 21, 2023 15:10
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w00tmonger posted:Wondering if I could get some done up with my companies logos on them for branding in the bottom of terrain. Are they just pei? The ones I got were, yeah. 1 side smooth "PEY" (They call the holo-side PEY, not PEI.) with the holo/image-effect, 1 side standard 'gold powder-coated pei'. I imagine engraving would work? These various image-plates are so finely molded that the surface feels smooth, so you'd only need to ablate a bit for it to show up, I think. If your engraver is capable of it, you could just try it on a standard 'rough'/powder-coated pei. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005649083477.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.6e801802nwdK6I There's the listing I bought from, they were quite well packed in (sandwiched between cardboard.). e: Now that I think about it, you could probably just etch out a mask/stencil, and then use some sandpaper to smooth down a pei sheet to get the contrast needed for a logo, perhaps. Unstenciled area remains rough, stenciled area is smoother/flatter. SubNat fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Aug 21, 2023 |
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Aug 21, 2023 15:29
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Sacrifice an old nozzle and just write gcode to carve your logo into the bed with the printer (probably don't do this, though)
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Aug 21, 2023 16:01
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Get a tungsten carbide nozzle and you won't even have to sacrifice it
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Aug 21, 2023 18:57
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First 24 hours with a P1P: gently caress this thing is fast. I was bending over with my face close to it to see if it was extruding when I started a test print and the printhead moved so fast to the front corner to begin its auto-bed levelling that I flinched. It's pretty loud, I definitely couldn't have it where my N3Plus lives. I put it in a closet and I'd have to strain to hear it during most operations. I can occasionally hear some fast travel movements, the fan spinning up to 100%, and when it's jittering to fill in corners and the like. The initial test Benchy looks pretty good, there are some lines on the hull and the chimney's got a pretty deep seam but I wouldn't call it bad by any stretch. I printed a side-mounted spool hanger but the clips that actually hang it off the printer were surprisingly hard to print. They're printed on their side so they have a very thin, Z shaped footprint and the P1P just couldn't help kicking them and snapping them off the build plate after just a couple minutes. I had to reduce all accelerations by 50% and do a 5mm brim with reduced object gap to get a finished, successful print. Some research shows that tall, thin/narrow prints tend to need this sort of remedy so that's something to keep in mind. All in all, I'm happy with this printer! I wanted something that could whip out fast prints while my N3Plus grinds away at another 20+ hour job (it almost exclusively prints large wargaming terrain pieces) and I didn't want to have to dick around with tinkering too much. In that, the P1P does the job.
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Aug 21, 2023 21:34
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In hindsight this was dumb, but I bought an Ender 7 when I saw it in the bargain bin at Microcenter a few months ago. Since I can't go back in time and kick myself, I've installed Klipper, replaced the MCU with a Fysetc Cheetah 3.0, and the hotend with a Biqu H2V2S. I'm seeing a very pronounced layer line issue on vertical surfaces.   Has anyone seen this before? It started with the original hotend and bowden extruder and it appears to be getting worse over time. I've tried the following to no effect:
I'm starting to suspect the motion system. The belts appear to be correctly tensioned. This is my first CoreXY printer, so I don't have a good feel for what to try next.
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Aug 22, 2023 00:12
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Sangamon posted:In hindsight this was dumb, but I bought an Ender 7 when I saw it in the bargain bin at Microcenter a few months ago. Since I can't go back in time and kick myself, I've installed Klipper, replaced the MCU with a Fysetc Cheetah 3.0, and the hotend with a Biqu H2V2S. back when I had a core xy machine, the layer line issues were always caused by the z axis rods running out of true. First thing would be to make sure that the frame is square, parallel and tightened down. Then, move on to the motors and make sure everything is tight. not sure what slicer you're using, but apparently adaptive layer height can cause similar issues. but it does look like some kind of intermittent z wobble.
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Aug 22, 2023 00:17
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Does anyone have a really good profile for the Bambuu PETG-Basic filaments? I'm using the PEI sheet on my X1C so the auto calibration breaks horribly, and hand tuning doesn't seem to be working for me. No matter what I do, I get zitting on the part walls.
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Aug 22, 2023 00:36
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:Does anyone have a really good profile for the Bambuu PETG-Basic filaments? I'm using the PEI sheet on my X1C so the auto calibration breaks horribly, and hand tuning doesn't seem to be working for me. No matter what I do, I get zitting on the part walls. Did you dry the PETG after receiving it? Like TPU, it needs to be dried before printing, but after drying, I get a few weeks out of PETG before needing to dry again. I swear with TPU I get like a day or two.
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Aug 22, 2023 00:42
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Bondematt posted:Did you dry the PETG after receiving it? Like TPU, it needs to be dried before printing, but after drying, I get a few weeks out of PETG before needing to dry again. Dried overnight at 60C, loaded into the AMS. AMS modded with the desiccant holders that fit into the front and almost a pound of those blue beads. It prints beautifully, it's just something with either the retraction or the pressure advance or something is fucky with it, and I can't figure out what it could be. Unchecking 'slow down for overhangs' solved 90% of the crappy part problems, and this is basically the last thing keeping the parts from being perfect.
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Aug 22, 2023 01:03
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With tpu the generic tpu profile was fine for vase mode koozies, but the dragon in TPU came out stringing. I have since lowered volumetric flow to 2.5, retractions to 1mm, and 0 hop. Temp is 220 for this particular color change tpu, and it's come out flawless
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Aug 22, 2023 01:16
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Sangamon posted:In hindsight this was dumb, but I bought an Ender 7 when I saw it in the bargain bin at Microcenter a few months ago. Since I can't go back in time and kick myself, I've installed Klipper, replaced the MCU with a Fysetc Cheetah 3.0, and the hotend with a Biqu H2V2S. how did you do extruder calibration? this looks like overextrusion, a little. Alternatively, something is loose.
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Aug 22, 2023 01:31
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Some recent (and obvious) OctoPi lessons learned for the thread: -If you have an oddly flaky RPi that randomly loses connectivity over the network and just seems janky in general, check your power supply. Even the generally good Canakit 3B power supplies can crap out, my 3B+ wouldn't even boot up at the end. -RPis can handle some temperature, but they don't necessarily like being inside your enclosure. Also, a little bit of active cooling on your RPi can go a long way. -Speed test your MicroSD cards! A long time ago I'd set up my MK3s+ with a Pi 3B+ running OctoPi, in a case mounted directly to the printer frame. The Pi had heatsinks, but it was in a fairly constrained case with passive cooling only. The whole thing is in a SainSmart enclosure, with lighting and a Pi camera. It ran great at first, but slowly got flakier and flakier as time went on, by the end it'd drop network connectivity within a few days of a reboot. Also, it was a giant pain every time I had to pull the printer out of the enclosure since I'd have to remove the camera with 2 feet of ribbon cable. This weekend I decided I'd had enough, and swapped it for a Pi 4 that I wasn't using much, and strapped it on the outside of the enclosure in a case with heatsinks and a tiny (30mm?) fan. It works great, and now when I need to pull the printer out I just have to disconnect the USB cable. I made sure to speed test a bunch of my SD cards, and found that I apparently have a ton of slow cards. Many had sub-10MB/s write speeds (including the one that was in my 3B+) and only marginally better read speeds. I ended up using an extra Nintendo branded 128GB Sandisk card, which boasted write speeds of 70-80 MB/s. The result: The Pi 3B+ would run over 60C while logged in to OctoPrint and printing, the Pi 4 hasn't cracked 50C. Pi 4s tend to run hotter, but between not being inside the enclosure and the tiny fan it looks like it's in a decent place thermally. Also, OctoPrint feels waaaay snappier. I don't know how much of that is the 3B+ vs. 4, but I suspect the biggest difference is SD cards. The 3B+ would take its sweet time booting and uploading/processing gcode, the 4 with new and improved SD card it quick.
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Aug 22, 2023 01:34
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:almost a pound of those blue beads. I can’t remember the specifics but I’m pretty sure those blue beads are carcinogenic or toxic in some way. Feel free to fact check me.
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Aug 22, 2023 01:40
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