Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

That cabinet door is not repairable. It's fiberboard, and when it got wet, the fibers swelled and popped the veneer loose.

No clue on the stain though. What cleaners have you tried?

I figured as much for the fiber board. Is it liable to continue peeling? Can I protect the undamaged part or just avoid watering my cabinetry in the future?

For the stain I've tried soap+water, all purpose household cleaner, baking soda paste, and a vinegar/water wipe down.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Jenkl posted:

I figured as much for the fiber board. Is it liable to continue peeling? Can I protect the undamaged part or just avoid watering my cabinetry in the future?
If it's dry, it should be done peeling, yeah. It's more fragile now, though, so incidental contact could make it degrade further.

quote:

For the stain I've tried soap+water, all purpose household cleaner, baking soda paste, and a vinegar/water wipe down.

I'm not a cleansers expert, but maybe try Simple Green?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Jenkl posted:

I figured as much for the fiber board. Is it liable to continue peeling? Can I protect the undamaged part or just avoid watering my cabinetry in the future?

As long as you keep it dry, it shouldn't progress. Nothing you can really do for it besides keep it dry.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
If it's a common splash zone you could goop some clear silicone caulk into it and around the base. It will look a little ugly and peel off if you hit it with things, but it can prevent splashes from making it worse over time. It will still wick water off the floor though if any can get under it, say when mopping.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Basically, particle board is awful.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Yeah I had a hunch it was the case. It's not the worst spot to keep dry going forward.

As for the stain, I think we're going to try some harsher chemicals. If we damage it, well, it isn't exactly worse.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
You'll never get that corner perfect, but I suspect a tiny amount of glue plus some heavy clamping could mush it a bit more into proper shape. Fractional improvement, but for a pretty minor investment of time and effort.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
You could put a bit of adhesive like epoxy or glue in between the veneer and clamp the gently caress out of it to try and force some of that into the voids.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Au1hDcYN8lw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqvIUDdbUvM

Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 10, 2023

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

Wasabi the J posted:

You could put a bit of adhesive like epoxy or glue in between the veneer and clamp the gently caress out of it to try and force some of that into the voids.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Au1hDcYN8lw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqvIUDdbUvM

In the second video there they use a polyurethane topcoat as the glue and it looked like it (plus clamps) got the shape back almost perfectly, bit shocked!

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
If it's dried out, the water that swelled it should be air now, which is very squeezable.

Wood hardener also works allegedly.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


As part of some renovations, we've discovered mice nests in the walls. The insulation has been discarded and everything vacuumed up thoroughly, but there's definitely still a noticable urine smell. What's the right way to fully clean this before we close the walls back up?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Take it all out, scrub with 10% bleach, replace with new. You’re gonna want sunlight and time if it’s soaked into the wood or drywall. Hell. Might be time to replace the drywall.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Oh there is no more drywall. This is stud and sheathing. Smelly area is near door, it wasn't noticable before demo though.



Bonus points if you spot the crappy construction.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Sunlight and time. Maybe an ozone generator, but wood isn’t as absorptive to gases as it is to straight piss

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

There are enzyme cleaners that can take care of strong animal smells, but that stuff is soaked into the wood and it'll never entirely come out.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Vapor seal it and forget about it (after doing what you can)

Horatius Bonar
Sep 8, 2011

brugroffil posted:

Bonus points if you spot the crappy construction.

Two jack studs just a little closer than usual.

Also check your ceiling for evidence of mice if you haven't already. With normal precautions for mice droppings - N95 mask, gloves. Spray water with 10% bleach, wipe with cloths. After the drywall is back it's not going to smell if it didn't before, cleaning is mostly because you'll know its there in your walls after you close them up. You'll know.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


We had black particles all over the kitchen and I worried. Yesterday I realized it was residue from the oven self-cleaning cycle. Yes, I need an exhaust fan, no, can't find a contractor.

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

How the gently caress do I change the bulb in this thing without breaking it?


Been on vacation but haven't made much progress on this sadly.

The silver part on the base can be partially tilted off...



but the cord on the other side is blocking it from coming off completely.



The bottom is covered with this black felt that seems pretty well stuck on there.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

brugroffil posted:

Oh there is no more drywall. This is stud and sheathing. Smelly area is near door, it wasn't noticable before demo though.



Bonus points if you spot the crappy construction.

Nothing is holding that header up lol

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

Been on vacation but haven't made much progress on this sadly.

The silver part on the base can be partially tilted off...



but the cord on the other side is blocking it from coming off completely.



The bottom is covered with this black felt that seems pretty well stuck on there.



Does that inner black metal plate with the felt on it separate or lift away from the silver cover if you pull or pry up gently on it?

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012

That Works posted:

Does that inner black metal plate with the felt on it separate or lift away from the silver cover if you pull or pry up gently on it?
Unfortunately no.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Take it all out, scrub with 10% bleach, replace with new. You’re gonna want sunlight and time if it’s soaked into the wood or drywall. Hell. Might be time to replace the drywall.

Bleach is not effective with this kind of thing. It's more hazardous to the people around it than it is to the potential pathogens.

Leperflesh posted:

There are enzyme cleaners that can take care of strong animal smells, but that stuff is soaked into the wood and it'll never entirely come out.

This is the current best practice. If it does not take care of the smell sufficiently it should be painted with a blocking primer like oil based Kilz.

CzarChasm
Mar 14, 2009

I don't like it when you're watching me eat.

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

The bottom is covered with this black felt that seems pretty well stuck on there.



Honestly, I'd just take a razor and work off the felt bottom. It's certainly glued on there, but it might be covering some kind of access panel.

Imasalmon
Mar 19, 2003

Meet me in the Hall of Fame

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

Been on vacation but haven't made much progress on this sadly.

The silver part on the base can be partially tilted off...



but the cord on the other side is blocking it from coming off completely.



The bottom is covered with this black felt that seems pretty well stuck on there.



I found an ebay listing that shows the bottom of a very similar lamp without the felt:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3644451472...yr%2BNPXYvgM%3D

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Motronic posted:

Bleach is not effective with this kind of thing. It's more hazardous to the people around it than it is to the potential pathogens.

This is the current best practice. If it does not take care of the smell sufficiently it should be painted with a blocking primer like oil based Kilz.

10% bleach is pretty low on the list of hazards for me, but safety first!

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Dr. Lunchables posted:

10% bleach is pretty low on the list of hazards for me, but safety first!

I'm not trying to say it's a huge hazard, but it's an unnecessary one since it does nothing. In fact, the reason it does nothing is the reason it's a hazard at all: it's too volatile to stick around long enough in a spray application to be effective.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

Been on vacation but haven't made much progress on this lately…

Imasalmon posted:

I found an ebay listing that shows the bottom of a very similar lamp without the felt:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3644451472...yr%2BNPXYvgM%3D

I would contact the seller on eBay and ask them how the bulb is replaced.

It looks from that photo like the felt has to come off, then the socket & bulb are popped out. I see a retaining spring. You’d have to push on the power cord at the perimeter to feed in slack. Try working it off gently with a razor.

If the felt’s destroyed, you can either replace it with a large sheet of Velcro to maintain bulb access, or get a bolt of felt cloth from a textile store such as Jo-Ann Fabrics or Michael’s & glue it back on with fabric adhesive.

I have a ceramic lamp from the 1950’s that has to have the felt removed from the bottom to service the lamp socket (it likes to spin loose) so every few years it gets torn off & a new piece glued on.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Sep 12, 2023

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Jenkl posted:

Nothing is holding that header up lol

The important thing is that you have the correct number of jack studs. Placement can be wherever.

Explains why the door was never quite sealed closed

e: we're replacing and shifting the location of that door so at least it'll be fixed!

brugroffil fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Sep 13, 2023

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

Been on vacation but haven't made much progress on this sadly.

The silver part on the base can be partially tilted off...



but the cord on the other side is blocking it from coming off completely.



The bottom is covered with this black felt that seems pretty well stuck on there.



I'd definitely peel back the felt and go from there. The felt can be easily replaced if you mess it up, but not the other parts of the lamp if you try to pry them apart.

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe
I have huge baseboards and they interfere with furniture. Look!




What are the options to like, have furniture against my walls?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer
Well, I see 3 choices:

1) Notch the furniture
2) Remove the baseboards
3) Extend the wall out

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Are they single piece? Sometimes folks add that quarter stripping for aesthetics, but it’s separate from the rest of the trim

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Are they single piece? Sometimes folks add that quarter stripping for aesthetics, but it’s separate from the rest of the trim

I think that quarter-round is just stuck on there, yeah.



devicenull posted:

Well, I see 3 choices:

1) Notch the furniture
2) Remove the baseboards
3) Extend the wall out

:geno:

Brut
Aug 21, 2007
Probation
Can't post for 10 days!

tuyop posted:

I have huge baseboards and they interfere with furniture. Look!




What are the options to like, have furniture against my walls?

only buy furniture with notches in the back

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

tuyop posted:

I think that quarter-round is just stuck on there, yeah.



:geno:

I mean, that covers the options. You can also just leave the furniture as is and stop thinking about it after 10 minutes.

Edit: Or store all of your flat objects behind all of your furniture.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

That quarter round looks separate to me, score it and see if it budges. Even if it doesn't grab a oscillating tool and cut it out, quarter round is pretty easy to put back and patch in if the furniture moves.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Comedy option #4 is to build bases for the furniture that go to the height of the baseboard

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
My dishwasher (GE Profile, blegh) door seems to have lost some but not all tension. I don't think the cords or springs are completely loose or broken as the door doesn't just drop, but it doesn't hold at all in the first half of its range of motion.

Does that sound like maybe the springs are worn? Maybe someone sat on the door and they got overextended?

That's not something that can be adjusted or something, is it?

I'm hoping to buy the parts in advance and not need to remove the dishwasher twice, once to investigate and once to repair.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

tuyop posted:

What are the options to like, have furniture against my walls?

Buy furniture with larger tops.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply