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Just cut the plastic hose and never worry about it again until it leaks years from now
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Sep 3, 2023 16:28
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Moved into a new place with a one piece Toto toilet that’s been running. I tried changing the fill valve but the toilet is still running and now the water level is dipping below the new fill valve, causing it to gurgle and make noise. Looks like I need to change the flush valve? It’s a dual flush system but since it’s a one piece toilet it should be pretty simple?
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Sep 3, 2023 16:43
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dew worm posted:Moved into a new place with a one piece Toto toilet that’s been running. I tried changing the fill valve but the toilet is still running and now the water level is dipping below the new fill valve, causing it to gurgle and make noise. Well, on a regular toilet, if a toilet is running, that means that either the flapper is leaking or the fill valve is set too low and it's running over the overflow tube.
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Sep 3, 2023 19:12
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Or the fill valve is broken and leaking out the top.
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Sep 3, 2023 19:39
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dew worm posted:Moved into a new place with a one piece Toto toilet that’s been running. I tried changing the fill valve but the toilet is still running and now the water level is dipping below the new fill valve, causing it to gurgle and make noise. Put some food coloring in the tank and come back in a bit. If the coloring is in the bowl, you need a new flapper.
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Sep 3, 2023 22:05
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There’s a brown streak where the water is running from, does that matter? I don’t believe the water is going above the overflow. There’s no flapper visible - I’m pretty sure this is the generic replacement part for the flush valve. Toilet Flush Valves 2-Inch Replacement Valve Kit Assembly for One Piece Dual Flush Drain Valve Repair Compatible with TOTO THU338N https://a.co/d/bgPAOm8
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Sep 3, 2023 22:45
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Is there a recommendation for a good, basic toilet? I don't need hidden anchor bolts or led lights or any of that. I do have a preference for solid (not thin plastic) seats since I dump with a great deal of torque. Any favorites?
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Sep 6, 2023 02:59
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I suppose water heaters fall under the plumbing umbrella too. Water heater stopped making hot water about a day ago, after some inspection the thermopile voltage low light is blinking on the control unit of the water heater. Well, I did with any self-respecting goon would do, and went and bought a new one from my local hardware supply store and installed it. Well, after installation, the thermopile voltage low light is still blinking. 99% sure the burner unit/thermopile was installed correctly as well. What are my next troubleshooting steps here before I go out and buy a new burner unit?
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Sep 6, 2023 05:45
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TacoHavoc posted:Is there a recommendation for a good, basic toilet? I don't need hidden anchor bolts or led lights or any of that. I do have a preference for solid (not thin plastic) seats since I dump with a great deal of torque. Any favorites? I like the Kohler ones, not terribly expensive and flush well. Also chair height toilet are awesome. This thread recommends toto a lot, but they didn't get partner approval due to looks. Wicaeed posted:I suppose water heaters fall under the plumbing umbrella too.
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Sep 6, 2023 13:17
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Rakeris posted:I like the Kohler ones, not terribly expensive and flush well. Also chair height toilet are awesome. This thread recommends toto a lot, but they didn't get partner approval due to looks. The pilot apparently lights (I haven't been able to visually confirm this though) for a short time (maybe 10 seconds) and then starts blinking with the Low Thermopile Voltage pattern maybe 2 or 3 times, then shuts off. Again I haven't been able to visually see the pilot light, so maybe that means it's not turning on.
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Sep 6, 2023 23:33
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This feels like a dumb question, but is there any difference between a "short" water heater and a regular one, other than that one is, uh, shorter? We've got a "short" water heater currently, but by my measurements there's enough space to put in a "regular" water heater by just cutting the pipes and exhaust short, and not having to worry about where any of the existing elbows or valves are. My guess is this is just what was on the truck when they needed it replaced last time around, but want to make sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot somehow picking up a regular height water heater to do a DIY replacement (with some assistance).
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Sep 8, 2023 18:10
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FISHMANPET posted:This feels like a dumb question, but is there any difference between a "short" water heater and a regular one, other than that one is, uh, shorter? We've got a "short" water heater currently, but by my measurements there's enough space to put in a "regular" water heater by just cutting the pipes and exhaust short, and not having to worry about where any of the existing elbows or valves are. My guess is this is just what was on the truck when they needed it replaced last time around, but want to make sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot somehow picking up a regular height water heater to do a DIY replacement (with some assistance). The short ones are just fatter. It's entirely for packaging. Remember, the anode is nearly the height of the water heater and comes out in one piece. The replacements are 3/4-piece (I think there are some flexible ones too). So if you don't have at least 1/3 of the height over the water heater you don't have sufficient service room. That could be why a short was installed, but it's more likely your guess is correct.
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Sep 8, 2023 18:15
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FISHMANPET posted:This feels like a dumb question, but is there any difference between a "short" water heater and a regular one, other than that one is, uh, shorter? We've got a "short" water heater currently, but by my measurements there's enough space to put in a "regular" water heater by just cutting the pipes and exhaust short, and not having to worry about where any of the existing elbows or valves are. My guess is this is just what was on the truck when they needed it replaced last time around, but want to make sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot somehow picking up a regular height water heater to do a DIY replacement (with some assistance). Are you talking about the half height ones, like 40 gallons? If so, then the difference is capacity. Short electric ones will only have one heating element. That's about it for differences.
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Sep 8, 2023 19:31
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kid sinister posted:Are you talking about the half height ones, like 40 gallons? If so, then the difference is capacity. Short electric ones will only have one heating element. That's about it for differences. I took the question as comparing an "80 gallon" with an "80 gallon short".
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Sep 8, 2023 20:17
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Looking at what Menards sells, they've got plenty of options in both short and regular for both 40 and 50 gallon options so it's not just smaller capacity. There are a few outliers that are radically different sizes for mobile homes and such, but there seems to be a "standard" where the short models are about 4 feet tall, and the regular models a bit over 5 feet. Good call on the anode, I hadn't thought about that. The basement ceiling height is around 7 feet so I'll have to measure again to see how much clearance there would be.
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Sep 8, 2023 20:17
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FISHMANPET posted:Good call on the anode, I hadn't thought about that. The basement ceiling height is around 7 feet so I'll have to measure again to see how much clearance there would be. Remember you only need to clear a little over 1/3 of that height to install the new one. You can just cut the old one in pieces as you take it out.
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Sep 8, 2023 20:23
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And since most people never change the anode or do any other kind of water heater maintenance, you can just get a 7 footer!!
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Sep 8, 2023 23:26
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:And since most people never change the anode or do any other kind of water heater maintenance, you can just get a 7 footer!! Those people aren't asking questions like that in places like this. Oh....right 
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Sep 8, 2023 23:29
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Rakeris posted:I like the Kohler ones, not terribly expensive and flush well. Also chair height toilet are awesome. This thread recommends toto a lot, but they didn't get partner approval due to looks. Yeah this turned out to be the gas valve of the control unit itself, fortunately it was still under warranty, and I have a parts authorization # that gets me a replacement unit if I can find it locally  Out of curiosity what type of thread sealant is on these threads? Is there a special gas thread sealant that I need to get to perform this installation?
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Sep 9, 2023 00:29
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Yes look for pipe dope or PTFE tape specified for use with natural gas. Where I am the tape's usually yellow but it does vary.
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Sep 9, 2023 00:50
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Wicaeed posted:Yeah this turned out to be the gas valve of the control unit itself, fortunately it was still under warranty, and I have a parts authorization # that gets me a replacement unit if I can find it locally Yes, there's absolutely a special gas type. The flax thread is always the same, but requires a special pipe dope that doesn't dry out with time(here its usually in green as opposed to blue packaging), and the teflon tape also requires a special type(once again, usually green rather than blue packaging and three times the price). The stuff that can be used for gas and compressed air will also work for water, mind you.
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Sep 9, 2023 08:34
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 I think I've discovered why my kitchen faucet cold water has such low pressure. This is one of the pull down, single handle faucets, with supplies built-in. Is there a way to replace the supply line on this kind of faucet? Or would I need to replace the whole thing? Of course I've also discovered there are no shut-offs here.
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Sep 10, 2023 03:38
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Jenkl posted:
Take it off. That blockage is near enough to the end to check it out with a flashlight. The hose might have just kinked on installation and can still be salvaged. As for no shut offs, Brasscraft makes some valves that don't require cutting pipes. https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr...FX-C1/203309315 kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Sep 10, 2023 |
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Sep 10, 2023 05:50
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Jenkl posted:
This 100% depends on the exact faucet. I've had ones where those lines are screwed into the top of the faucet as well as exceptionally similar looking but cheaper versions where they were crimped into the head of the faucet in a way that they're just not repairable. Also, if you have enough length you can cut the bad part off and put a new compression fitting end on it. I don't know exactly what that style/kind would be called, but no doubt they exist and can be ordered relatively cheaply.
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Sep 10, 2023 14:51
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Curious to know if the other end of that hose is crimped to the faucet, or if it is a standard supply line which can be simply (relative to working in the tight confines under a sink can be...) removed & replaced. I would first loosen the nut & see if it can't be unkinked. That it is kinked leads me to believe that the ferrule that the nut rides on is no longer letting the nut ride around it, though it could simply be working too fast/one-handed/incompetence of the installer. When to re-tighten it, you may need a pair of pliers or vise-grips (exerting the lightest force necessary) to keep the ferrule from spinning as you tighten the nut & twisting the hose again. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Sep 10, 2023 |
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Sep 10, 2023 15:06
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I'm going to start by adding some shut offs. I'll investigate the connection before re-attaching and see what I can see. Once I have working shut-offs, and assuming it's not something simple, I'll look at dismantling the fixture to see if the hoses are replaceable or not It is this faucet: https://www.kohler.ca/ca/arise-arti...ets/1295149.htm Unfortunately I couldn't see any indication on their site that they are removable lines. Actually cutting and recapping the existing braided steel braid feels like it should be doable but I've yet to find the right tools/parts to do it.
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Sep 10, 2023 15:23
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Jenkl posted:It is this faucet: https://www.kohler.ca/ca/arise-arti...ets/1295149.htm It should be for a $500 faucet. In typical Kohler fashion the diagram is incomplete and the valve is discontinued. What a garbage company. I'd hit them up for the lifetime warranty. They'll probably have to replace the whole thing with whatever the new revision is with yet another "universal" we swear this is the last one we're really gonna stick with it this time valve in it.
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Sep 10, 2023 15:32
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Motronic posted:It should be for a $500 faucet. In typical Kohler fashion the diagram is incomplete and the valve is discontinued. What a garbage company. I experienced the hell that is them changing poo poo for no reason, completely ruining any repairability, with a Moen shower valve. gently caress these people.
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Sep 10, 2023 22:38
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Based on the Specifications page/diagram, the two flex hoses are permanently attached to the faucet. If the twist doesn't come out when the hose is straightened out, Motronic posted:I'd hit them up for the lifetime warranty. They'll probably have to replace the whole thing with whatever the new revision is with yet another "universal" we swear this is the last one we're really gonna stick with it this time valve in it. I can't take the high ground since I bought a Kingston Brass kitchen faucet & the ceramic cartridges get stiff within a couple years, do not cross-reference with any other brands, and are rapidly approaching unobtainum status. I buy them when-and wherever I can find them, to build up a supply. Plumbing supply houses do not stock them. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Sep 11, 2023 |
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Sep 11, 2023 01:56
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PainterofCrap posted:I can't take the high ground since I bought a Kingston Brass kitchen faucet & the ceramic cartridges get stiff within a couple years, do not cross-reference with any other brands, and are rapidly approaching unobtainum status. I buy them when-and wherever I can find them, to build up a supply. Plumbing supply houses do not stock them. My personal approach for anything plumbing-related is that unless what I have is something that has an extremely special design I don't want to lose, or otherwise some sort of very special qualities(like being super expensive, like a home water softening plant or some such), once its at an age of 5+, I'm very likely to just replace the drat thing than trying to repair it. Half the time the necessare spare parts cost about half as much as a new [thing] anyway, and doing a full replace is less work than wrestling it open and fiddling with small parts inside. Especially when it comes to toilets, I can replace a toilet in about five minutes, with most of that being spent swearing as I try to navigate the new and old toilet through the building without breaking anything, but fiddling around inside the cistern can take me the better part of a day since there's ALWAYS some part thats uncooperative.
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Sep 11, 2023 09:04
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getting sick of the bullshit of countertop water filter pitchers and i'm curious if it's worth it to step up to an under-sink filtration setup? i bought a pur pitcher 6 months ago and all three filters in the new 3-pack take hours to filter a single pitcher worth of water. gently caress this trash.
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Sep 13, 2023 22:15
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:getting sick of the bullshit of countertop water filter pitchers and i'm curious if it's worth it to step up to an under-sink filtration setup? RO is great, you'll never want to go back. I highly recommend https://purewaterproducts.com - they just build systems from commodity parts, so you're not locked into a particular brand. Support has been pretty great as well.
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Sep 13, 2023 23:38
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devicenull posted:RO is great, you'll never want to go back. Thank you, this looks really good. I think a triple filter will do, reverse osmosis looks like it's more than I actually need. The water isn't terrible here just want less fuss or waiting for water to filter.
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Sep 14, 2023 16:28
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I am looking to install a french drain in my backyard, with my plan to terminate the pipe into the gutter draining system for the house, which flows out to the street not into the sewer system (as a side note). Here's a picture of where my gutter pipe enters the below ground bit, I am planning to dig out the hole more for easier working of course. If I use this wye/bend piece to create a connection point for the french drain, is that the best way to go about it or should I use some different combination of pipe pieces? I would plan to get a 3" socket saver drill bit so I can remove the straight pipe piece, drill out the inside of the in-ground connection point, and attach the wye/bend piece. 
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Sep 15, 2023 00:11
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tangy yet delightful posted:I am looking to install a french drain in my backyard, with my plan to terminate the pipe into the gutter draining system for the house, which flows out to the street not into the sewer system (as a side note). Here's a picture of where my gutter pipe enters the below ground bit, I am planning to dig out the hole more for easier working of course. The links don't seem to work, but for cutting what looks like a cast iron piece of pipe, I would recommend one of these(or something similar, they come in a number of variants):  It's most likely to give you a nice, neat cut and prevent the pipe cracking or splitting in any way. If you cut a bit above the female part of the lower pipe, you also shouldn't need to "drill out" anything from the lower pipe, you should just be able to pull the remnant of the upper one out. If it's just waste water, at most it'll be sealed with a bit of plumber's putty or, if old enough, a bit of tar or soft lead. If it's PVC it might be glued together, but that would still be rare for a large drain pipe, they're usually just shoved together since basic principles of gravity and the occasional rubber gasket keep the water going where you want it to and there's rarely enough pressure to give it other fun ideas. A Y or T piece just above the lower pipe's female end seems like a perfectly normal way to handle it, I can't see any reason to do it any other way. If the drain's some distance away, you might want a T piece instead of a Y piece to make sure you have enough drop over distance to work with.
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Sep 15, 2023 11:08
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Huh those are just home depot links not sure why they didn't work, anyway appreciate you taking a look at it, from fondling the pipes in the picture I'm pretty sure it's all plastic and not cast iron. Good to know that most likely not glued, I'll probably still buy the drill bit to have on hand when I go to tackle this project and then return it if it ends up not being needed.
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Sep 15, 2023 17:33
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Link works for me. If the pipe is PVC, then it will work just fine.
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Sep 15, 2023 17:50
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tangy yet delightful posted:If I use this wye/bend piece to create a connection point for the french drain, is that the best way to go about it or should I use some different combination of pipe pieces? Something that is kind of annoying is that you won't have enough pipe to set into the fitting, unless you are able to lift the pipe up and slide it down into the flange. So keep that in mind. You may end up using a fernco rubber fitting or a slip joint to splice some pipe together, so also put a chunk of 3" pipe on your list. In longer words just in case that was lost: cut out the pipe, glue the wye on a stub you left on the bottom PVC, and slide the top pipe back into it IF it is able to be lifted and dropped. Plan your cut accordingly. If you can't drop it, cut a longer section out, and glue in a stub to the top of the wye that matches the pipe above and put the slip/repair fitting on, then put it in place and glue together. IMO don't buy that socket drilling until you absolutely need it. Plumbers typically melt the fittings out, and there's also a chance you can just pull it out because it's not glued (never was or glue failed) on any job you do. It just seems like something you'd buy and spend $20 and have it around forever and never use or use once and take up space the rest of the time.
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Sep 15, 2023 17:52
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Great info! The top pipe piece is maybe 2-3 feet long and the gutter downspout just slides into it so I should be able to get enough vertical movement to keep this connection on the simpler side of things but I do enjoy buying lots of parts and then returning things I don't need so adding to my list in case we have to do things the harder way.
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Sep 15, 2023 18:34
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Why do plumbing sockets come in sizes that aren't common with any other sockets? I'm referring to the sets that are like, "Socket SAE sizes: 21/32 in., 27/32 in., 29/32 in., 31/32 in., 1-1/32 in., 1-3/32 in., 1-5/32 in., 1-9/32 in., 1-11/32 in., 1-7/16 in.". I get that the obvious answer is that is what size the nuts are, but why don't the nuts use more standard sizes in 1/8ths or 1/16ths?
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Sep 20, 2023 02:34
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