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Phanatic
Mar 13, 2007

Please don't forget that I am an extremely racist idiot who also has terrible opinions about the Culture series.
My understanding is that water-based paint on top of oil-based paint is a terrible idea. But that water-based primer on top of oil-based paint and then water-based paint on top of the primer is fine. Is that correct?

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Eeyo
Aug 29, 2004

Followup on my bathroom fan problems in case someone has a similar issue:

Turns out the one-way valve on the box had gotten stuck a little bit, so the fan couldn't actually push the air anywhere. I poked it and it opened, then when I ran it after that it opened normally and I confirmed that it was actually blowing on the other end of the vent (which it was not before). I tried to get a bit of lube into the pivot for the flap but it's very hard to get lube past the squirrel cage.

It turns out the previous owners didn't actually vent it properly (lol). What I thought was the fan vent was actually the sewer vent. The fan vent was just a long length of flexible ducting that was just kinda lazily shoved a foot away from a roof vent, and tied into place with old solid wire. I went ahead and pushed the end of the duct closer to the roof vent, but lmao.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"

Phanatic posted:

My understanding is that water-based paint on top of oil-based paint is a terrible idea. But that water-based primer on top of oil-based paint and then water-based paint on top of the primer is fine. Is that correct?

It would depend on a combination of the specific waterbased primer and how well prepped (most importantly sanded/abraided) the oilbased paint is. A high adhesion waterbased bonding primer like Insl-X Stix would generally go direct to an existing oil with minimal prep. You'd want to rough the poo poo out of the oil first if you want to prime over it with something like a Kilz 2.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Time to make a final paint color decision for the siding on my house:
Left or right? Dark or light?



Same colors on both samples, different walls with different light exposure.

smashmyradio
May 1, 2021

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Time to make a final paint color decision for the siding on my house:
i like the darker one more :)

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


I got my patio lights up in time for 6:30pm darkness!



please ignore the mess of the patio and the random green bulbs which are still on one strand from spring and focus on the fact that the lawn is lit!

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Time to make a final paint color decision for the siding on my house:
Left or right? Dark or light?



Same colors on both samples, different walls with different light exposure.

Dark looks much better and more modern to me.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




+1 vote for dark

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Dark vote here too, I really dig that shade.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
The guy who painted my house insisted that lighter colored paints last longer. Is that actually a concern?

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

All things must pass away. To every thing there is a season.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
Ok, but painting a house is expensive

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

eddiewalker posted:

The guy who painted my house insisted that lighter colored paints last longer. Is that actually a concern?

I've never heard of this. I used to work painting exteriors but as like a 17 year old so I probably wouldn't have remembered if this was mentioned. I don't think you should care about that tbh it won't be a huge difference anyways.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



eddiewalker posted:

The guy who painted my house insisted that lighter colored paints last longer. Is that actually a concern?

Darker pigments absorb more heat. It can age a coating faster than a lighter shade that reflects.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Dark can also look dirtier than lighter colors with pollen, spider webs etc.

That said I enjoy my dark house but I'm in Seattle so heat isn't really a huge concern especially with the shade I get.

Slanderer
May 6, 2007
This is a very vague question, but does anyone have any resources on replacing water damaged sheathing? I've been putting off this repair all year, but basically there's water damage in one wall of a sunroom addition to my house caused by a leak in the flat roof. The flat roof was supposedly fixed before I moved in 3 years ago, but carpenter ants moved into that wall last fall. I know the sheathing is rotten under the siding on that wall, and there's old water damage in the ceiling as well, and maybe even a continuing leak (I haven't seen water or moisture, but I have seen a spot where the roofing company screwed up the waterproof membrane around one of the skylights).

I want to start small by fixing the sheathing and also checking for damage to the supports while the siding is off. However, I have no clue what type of sheathing I should be using to replace the damaged stuff (which looks like maybe OSB with tar paper on the exterior? I only peaked under the siding, but I haven't taken it off yet.

Once I get this done I'll move onto the ceiling, but I want to handle the outdoor work while the weather is nice. I'm also not looking forward to the rain of dead carpenter ants that I expect to see when I pull down the wood paneling on the ceiling, so I'll be procrastinating as long as possible.

edit: I'm only used to fixing stuff inside the house, not anything outside of the insulation lol, so this is new territory for me

Slanderer fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Sep 28, 2023

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

eddiewalker posted:

The guy who painted my house insisted that lighter colored paints last longer. Is that actually a concern?

I know for painting vinyl siding care must be taken with darker colours as the heat absorption can cause the siding to warp.

A house a few blocks down had this happen, of course centered around the area that got peak sun the longest. They painted basically right before the sunniest day. Entire rows twisted up on itself.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"


Yeah, the vinyl siding thing is a whole other concern. Here's a picture of one I saw recently where white vinyl was painted this blue color, and you can see the results.

Here in FL the sun beats the poo poo out of exterior paint so I generally caution people against painting too dark. Everything will fade, darker colors are just usually more noticeable as they do. If you're the type to want your paint looking fresh and new, that could mean painting again a few years sooner than you would need to with a lighter color.

A bigger factor is type of color. Neutral/earth tones like gray, beige, taupe will generally hold up better than a yellow, blue, green, red, etc. That's because the organic pigments needed to make those brighter colors are more sensitive to UV and alkali/pH burn than the inorganic pigments usually used to tint more neutral tones.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Slanderer posted:

I want to start small by fixing the sheathing and also checking for damage to the supports while the siding is off. However, I have no clue what type of sheathing I should be using to replace the damaged stuff (which looks like maybe OSB with tar paper on the exterior? I only peaked under the siding, but I haven't taken it off yet.

It's a small area. Make it easy on yourself. Buy ZIP System or equivalent. It's OSB that is coated with (usually green) stuff that works as your everything barrier. So no tar paper or anything, you just install the ZIP boards, tape it up using ZIP tape and your house is sealed and that area is under warranty for up to a year before you cover it directly with siding again and 20 years after that. There are a ton of videos on how to use this system that will probably be helpful to you not just on how ZIP works but what you'll be doing, what tools you will need, how long it will take, what your work area needs to look like, etc.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ZIP-System-7-16-Cat-PS2-10-OSB-Sheathing-Application-as-4-x-8/1000510447

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ZIP-System-90-ft-Stretch-Panel-System-Tape/1000510449

You also need to look at any doors/windows and make sure they are flashed properly and are still in good condition before you put the siding back up.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


My driveway is currently just 2 concrete tracks with grass down the middle. It's a pain to mow etc. and I am looking at having it replaced soon. A year or so ago I had to get the sewer drain line snaked and they said there must be a gap somewhere-likely wherever it transitions from old cast iron to new PVC near the street. Should I pre-emptively replace the sewer line so my new driveway doesn't have to get torn up if it needs replacing? Or just wait and see and start using RootX or similar? Or if there is a problem down the line just plan on one of those no-dig pipe liner things?

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp
I'd say get a scope so you know what the condition actually is, then decide based on that.

Academician Nomad
Jan 29, 2016
A few months ago, a socket stopped working, so I replaced it.

A shorter time ago, a bathroom overhead dimmer light stopped working, I replaced the dimmer switch but no dice, replacing the overhead light itself worked.

Now I have two different overhead lights not working - one dimmer in another bathroom (but other lights in the bathroom are fine), and an overhead light in a third room. In the third room, the light will come on for a second, flicker off, repeat some before it doesn't work anymore.

This is a condo in an ancient building, so maybe this was all just remodeled at the same time and things are burning out at the same time for that reason, but does it seem likely to be a bigger electrical issue?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

grover's been grilling again.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Academician Nomad posted:

A few months ago, a socket stopped working, so I replaced it.

A shorter time ago, a bathroom overhead dimmer light stopped working, I replaced the dimmer switch but no dice, replacing the overhead light itself worked.

Now I have two different overhead lights not working - one dimmer in another bathroom (but other lights in the bathroom are fine), and an overhead light in a third room. In the third room, the light will come on for a second, flicker off, repeat some before it doesn't work anymore.

This is a condo in an ancient building, so maybe this was all just remodeled at the same time and things are burning out at the same time for that reason, but does it seem likely to be a bigger electrical issue?
Maybe. Are they on different circuits?

Do you have aluminum wiring by chance?

Academician Nomad
Jan 29, 2016

slidebite posted:

Maybe. Are they on different circuits?

Do you have aluminum wiring by chance?

They're not on the same breaker box switch, is that distinct from circuit? Not sure about aluminum wiring, these lines from the inspection report we got when we bought the place are the best clue I have:

Phanatic
Mar 13, 2007

Please don't forget that I am an extremely racist idiot who also has terrible opinions about the Culture series.

Phanatic posted:

Who makes good ceiling fans? I've got to replace the one in my bedroom and I've installed enough Casablancas and Hampton Bays to know they loving suck.

This is just your reminder that electrical work in old houses sucks. Found out that instead of running power to the wall switch and then running the switch leg up to the ceiling outlet like, you know, you're supposed to, they ran the circuit to the fan box, used that as a junction box for the bedroom circuit, and the circuit to the next bedroom, and ran the switch leg down to the switch instead. And a hearty 'gently caress you' to whichever previous homeowner put down plywood in the attic and secured it to the joists with way more loving 4" common nails than was even approximately necessary.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Academician Nomad posted:

They're not on the same breaker box switch, is that distinct from circuit? Not sure about aluminum wiring, these lines from the inspection report we got when we bought the place are the best clue I have:



if you have romex it's probably copper.

Deviant fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Sep 29, 2023

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp

Phanatic posted:

a hearty 'gently caress you' to whichever previous homeowner put down plywood in the attic and secured it to the joists with way more loving 4" common nails than was even approximately necessary.

Nailed it!

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

Phanatic posted:

This is just your reminder that electrical work in old houses sucks. Found out that instead of running power to the wall switch and then running the switch leg up to the ceiling outlet like, you know, you're supposed to, they ran the circuit to the fan box, used that as a junction box for the bedroom circuit, and the circuit to the next bedroom, and ran the switch leg down to the switch instead.

I'm a weirdo apparently because my 50s house is wired like this and I love how logical it is-- every room's main feed comes into the ceiling box, then there's a switch leg, and a tee off down the wall to one outlet which then chains off to the others.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Qwijib0 posted:

I'm a weirdo apparently because my 50s house is wired like this and I love how logical it is-- every room's main feed comes into the ceiling box, then there's a switch leg, and a tee off down the wall to one outlet which then chains off to the others.

That's called a switch loop, not a switch leg. And it's great if it's been done consistently. The more typical situation and problem in construction of that age is a series of Garys screwing absolutely everything up and all doing things randomly rather than consistently.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Does $5.50/sq ft installed, (labor and materials, ) for a concrete driveway sound reasonable? Their estimate specs 3000psi concrete-is that sufficient or is 4000psi necessary? Driveway doesn't get much traffic for most of it and where it does get traffic it is just normal SUV/car/pickup truck, not monster trucks or anything. No frost heave here either.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Does $5.50/sq ft installed, (labor and materials, ) for a concrete driveway sound reasonable? Their estimate specs 3000psi concrete-is that sufficient or is 4000psi necessary? Driveway doesn't get much traffic for most of it and where it does get traffic it is just normal SUV/car/pickup truck, not monster trucks or anything. No frost heave here either.

What base prep are they doing, and at what thickness. And what thickness is the concrete?

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

Motronic posted:

That's called a switch loop, not a switch leg.

Probably picked up the incorrect terminology from TOH, for example https://www.thisoldhouse.com/electrical/22924069/switch-leg-wiring

unless _leg_ implies to an outlet, and _loop_ implies fixture.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Qwijib0 posted:

Probably picked up the incorrect terminology from TOH, for example https://www.thisoldhouse.com/electrical/22924069/switch-leg-wiring

unless _leg_ implies to an outlet, and _loop_ implies fixture.

Yeah, I've definitely heard that terminology applied to half switched outlets, i.e. one outlet in a duplex switched, the other constant power. The switched one is on the "switched leg'.

The "loop" in switch loop comes from the fact that you have a constant hot at a fixture that typically had a pull chain on it and you then break that hot, send it to a box and a switch, and then back to the fixture you broke it from with a 2 wire circuit. That's the "loop".

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Motronic posted:

What base prep are they doing, and at what thickness. And what thickness is the concrete?
4” thick concrete with wire mesh. No base prep is quoted and I’m not sure it’s really usual or necessary here. We have fairly stable if sandy soil and usually when I see sidewalks or driveways beings installed it is straight onto the dirt with some red sand/clay to raise grade if needed.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

4” thick concrete with wire mesh. No base prep is quoted and I’m not sure it’s really usual or necessary here. We have fairly stable if sandy soil and usually when I see sidewalks or driveways beings installed it is straight onto the dirt with some red sand/clay to raise grade if needed.

With mesh too? Sounds cheap to me per sq ft, but I'm not somewhere that requires no soil prep.

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum
That's a great price if they're doing a decent job, where I'm at that'd be an okay price for 3'' of asphalt... probably more right now with oil prices.

Phanatic
Mar 13, 2007

Please don't forget that I am an extremely racist idiot who also has terrible opinions about the Culture series.

Motronic posted:

Yeah, I've definitely heard that terminology applied to half switched outlets, i.e. one outlet in a duplex switched, the other constant power. The switched one is on the "switched leg'.

If we're gonna be sticklers: What you're calling an outlet is properly called a receptacle.

quote:

The "loop" in switch loop comes from the fact that you have a constant hot at a fixture that typically had a pull chain on it and you then break that hot, send it to a box and a switch, and then back to the fixture you broke it from with a 2 wire circuit. That's the "loop".

What I'm describing is that the hot side is always at the fan. The fan is never not energized. The switch is on the neutral side, so when it's open, there's no current flow and the switch still functions to turn the device on and off, but there's still line voltage connected to the fan even when the switch is open. This is undesirable.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Phanatic posted:

If we're gonna be sticklers: What you're calling an outlet is properly called a receptacle.
Oh. God, this is like lights and luminaires, isn't it.

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tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe

Phanatic posted:

If we're gonna be sticklers: What you're calling an outlet is properly called a receptacle.

What I'm describing is that the hot side is always at the fan. The fan is never not energized. The switch is on the neutral side, so when it's open, there's no current flow and the switch still functions to turn the device on and off, but there's still line voltage connected to the fan even when the switch is open. This is undesirable.

I don’t understand how AC circuits work. How can a line of wire be energized but not flowing? Maybe outside the scope of the thread.

I just mean in DC, if I have a wire hooked up to the negative/“hot” side of a source, but it’s not connected to the positive/“neutral” side, that negative wire is perfectly fine to handle and has no electricity flowing through it until it’s connected. Doesn’t sound like this is Joe house circuits work.

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