Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

«‹›279 »

Beef Of Ages: Jan 11, 2003; Your dumb is leaking.

Jenkl posted:

The three white pieces of wood are the door jambs: sides (hinge, latch), and top. The door itself is hung to the jambs on the hinges.

You'll typically see a new door sold as "pre-hung" - meaning the door comes inside the frame made up of the jambs.

You're basically looking at replacing one piece of said jambs - that entire latch-side piece of wood, and then you'd need to re-mortise the holes for the hardware. That's assuming everything else is still fine.

The jambs are likely fastened by nails where you see shims, and possibly where it flushes up. I'd the hinge screws are actually going all the way into the framing, well that's a good thing, and is usually step 1 for making a door more secure.

I'm not familiar with the products you mentioned but the above work can be a real pain in the rear end, so it could be worthwhile pursuing (theres a reason they sell doors pre hung). At a glance, they seem fine if you find one that fits.

The broader question of how to make that door secure could include changes that make this a moot point (i.e. you buy a steel framed security door or whatever).

Hopefully more experienced folks can chime in with a more holistic answer to your problem.

Super helpful, thanks. I'm guessing I could get the broken latch side of the jamb off and possibly find a replacement for it (this was a contractor grade door for a garage, nothing special) but having to mortise the holes for the strike plate and hardware is something that is likely beyond my current skills or tools (I don't have a router, for example). The pre-hung door makes a lot of sense and I'm leaning toward doing that with a steel framed door for the reasons that you and Motronic noted. Youtube videos show it to be relatively straight forward to remove the old one and I understand how to set and shim the new one to make it work right as I had to re-shim the now-broken door a couple of times during season changes to make sure the door closed correctly. Now the question is do I try to tackle this myself or try to find someone to come and do it for me.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 00:48

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ? May 30, 2024 15:43

Jenkl: Aug 5, 2008; This post needs at least three times more shit!

As Mo said, the questions with a steel door are less about the door and more about the next best alternatives to breaking in. That said, it may be a good idea, but we won't be able to tell you that.

Repairing it should be viable in the interim regardless. They absolutely should have a board you can use to replace the jamb. They sell them in 7' lengths where I am in a few thicknesses and widths as just "door jambs" with the trim. It really is just a primed piece of MDF, any such piece will work.

For the mortising, they sell kits designed to be used with a regular drill that make the process fairly manageable.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 00:59

wesleywillis: Dec 30, 2016; SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Yeah, if you're even somewhat handy with tools, it should be a fairly easy job.

Take your time, set aside a whole day just in case (Its probably a few hour job but whatever) and ask here if you have questions.

E: looking at the pics, it should be even easier because its not finished on the inside, thus better access, less trim to remove etc..

# ? Sep 27, 2023 01:02

Beef Of Ages: Jan 11, 2003; Your dumb is leaking.

Jenkl posted:

As Mo said, the questions with a steel door are less about the door and more about the next best alternatives to breaking in. That said, it may be a good idea, but we won't be able to tell you that.

Repairing it should be viable in the interim regardless. They absolutely should have a board you can use to replace the jamb. They sell them in 7' lengths where I am in a few thicknesses and widths as just "door jambs" with the trim. It really is just a primed piece of MDF, any such piece will work.

For the mortising, they sell kits designed to be used with a regular drill that make the process fairly manageable.

Good tip on the kit for mortising; I think I'll do an in place repair tomorrow and then do a steel door longer term.

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Yeah, if you're even somewhat handy with tools, it should be a fairly easy job.

Take your time, set aside a whole day just in case (Its probably a few hour job but whatever) and ask here if you have questions.

E: looking at the pics, it should be even easier because its not finished on the inside, thus better access, less trim to remove etc..

Yup, this should be as easy as it could reasonably get because everything is unfinished.

Edit: For the mortise, I'm assuming I can use a mortise bit with the strike plate itself as the guide? I have a drill but not a drill press, and I see lots of strike plate mortise jigs that cut the indention for the strikeplate but nothing for the deeper area where the latch actually goes inside the jamb.

Beef Of Ages fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Sep 27, 2023

# ? Sep 27, 2023 01:06

Jenkl: Aug 5, 2008; This post needs at least three times more shit!

You drill a hole. Kit I was gifted included a 1" (iirc) hole saw for that, same as is used to create the matching hope in the door itself.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 01:32

Twerk from Home: Jan 17, 2009; This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

My HVAC air handler is in my crawlspace, under the house, below grade. It has a condensate pump that pumps the water up and out. I'm pretty sure that its short, barely sloped drain line that goes into the condensate pump is clogged, so I need to clean out this drain line, but would prefer not to use vinegar and it'd be a pain in the rear end to run a hose in and try to use a lot of water.

Whatever I put in here to try and clean it out is almost certainly going to backflow into the air handler as well, and I'd bet vinegar would do a number on the coils. What's the right way to clean out this couple feet of pipe? Compressed air? I'd assume it would just all blow back into the air handler.

Here's what I'm working with:

# ? Sep 27, 2023 03:51

space uncle: Sep 17, 2006; "I don�t care if Biden beats Trump. I�m not offloading responsibility. If enough people feel similar to me, such as the large population of Muslim people in Dearborn, Michigan. Then he won�t"

Twerk from Home posted:

My HVAC air handler is in my crawlspace, under the house, below grade. It has a condensate pump that pumps the water up and out. I'm pretty sure that its short, barely sloped drain line that goes into the condensate pump is clogged, so I need to clean out this drain line, but would prefer not to use vinegar and it'd be a pain in the rear end to run a hose in and try to use a lot of water.

Whatever I put in here to try and clean it out is almost certainly going to backflow into the air handler as well, and I'd bet vinegar would do a number on the coils. What's the right way to clean out this couple feet of pipe? Compressed air? I'd assume it would just all blow back into the air handler.

Here's what I'm working with:

Mine just did this too. Try to get a vacuum on to that vertical pipe piece and suck the crud out.

Otherwise just put a little bit of vinegar in, then if that doesn�t work you could try a little bit of bleach. Don�t dump a whole jug in, but if you just do a cup then there�s no way it will overflow over the drain pan inside the air handler and hit the coils.

Alternatively you could do what I did and not have that nice vertical pipe and attempt to unscrew it and clean it out, resulting in you breaking the PVC threading into the air handler and needing to replace the whole cemented assembly. Fun.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 12:14

The Top G: Jul 19, 2023; by Fluffdaddy

Jenkl posted:

The broader question of how to make that door secure could include changes that make this a moot point (i.e. you buy a steel framed security door or whatever).

Replacing the jamb and installing the strike plate with 3� structural screws would probably be enough. Looking at the picture you can see that the original screws didn�t extend past the jamb so there was barely anything holding it in place. Very easy to kick the door in like that. Using longer screws will engage both of the studs adjacent to the door, greatly increasing the strength. Definitely the best bang for the buck.

Beyond that, adding a heavy duty padlock hasp and maybe a camera (real or fake) would provide some good theft deterrence. Nothing can be rendered break-in proof but some additional protective measures can have a would-be thief change their mind and find an easier home to target.

E: padlock hasp would be a quick way to secure it in the meantime before it can be repaired, too

# ? Sep 27, 2023 13:57

Lawnie: Sep 6, 2006; That is my helmet
Give it back
you are a lion
^{It doesn't even fit}; Grimey Drawer

space uncle posted:

Mine just did this too. Try to get a vacuum on to that vertical pipe piece and suck the crud out.

Otherwise just put a little bit of vinegar in, then if that doesn�t work you could try a little bit of bleach. Don�t dump a whole jug in, but if you just do a cup then there�s no way it will overflow over the drain pan inside the air handler and hit the coils.

Alternatively you could do what I did and not have that nice vertical pipe and attempt to unscrew it and clean it out, resulting in you breaking the PVC threading into the air handler and needing to replace the whole cemented assembly. Fun.

Please don�t mix vinegar and bleach.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 14:32

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

Lawnie posted:

Please don�t mix vinegar and bleach.

Or use either for HVAC purposes.

The correct materials are not all that expensive. Using random crap from your kitchen is penny wise pound foolish.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 14:59

facialimpediment: Feb 11, 2005; as the world turns

Regarding condensate pump cleaning, here's a video on that pump, which appears to be the standard Little Giant: https://youtu.be/4EhozlhAQVU?si=KbYrcPfA5Xy7bXBx

The one thing to mention - if you're going to clean out the line, clean out the pump too. Take it out, pop off the top, and clean the basin, and the bottom parts of the pump. There is an absolute ton of crud hanging to the bottom of the pump portion in most cases, which fucks with the float and eventually gets pushed into that line.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 15:04

space uncle: Sep 17, 2006; "I don�t care if Biden beats Trump. I�m not offloading responsibility. If enough people feel similar to me, such as the large population of Muslim people in Dearborn, Michigan. Then he won�t"

Lawnie posted:

Please don�t mix vinegar and bleach.

Haha good warning for sure, yes not mixed together.

What�s the best stuff for those pump lines?

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Drain-Line-Cleaner-Pack/dp/B0CDD5NGK7

Says it�s Limonene and Sodium Hydroxide. Citrus and lye solvent I guess. Lye seems like it would do a better job burning through the crud in there than bleach or vinegar.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 15:10

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

space uncle posted:

Haha good warning for sure, yes not mixed together.

What�s the best stuff for those pump lines?

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Drain-Line-Cleaner-Pack/dp/B0CDD5NGK7

Says it�s Limonene and Sodium Hydroxide. Citrus and lye solvent I guess. Lye seems like it would do a better job burning through the crud in there than bleach or vinegar.

Yeah, that's the stuff....it's all generally the same and the correct materials in concentrations to not destroy things.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 15:24

Twerk from Home: Jan 17, 2009; This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

Motronic posted:

Yeah, that's the stuff....it's all generally the same and the correct materials in concentrations to not destroy things.

I'm going to buy some of this, I've been lied to by pages and pages of search results telling me to scrub my evaporator coils with vinegar.

The one time I've had a pro out here, they noted that to replace this air handler they'd have to knock a new hole in my foundation. The access door to the crawlspace is tiny, much smaller than the air handler.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 15:38

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

Twerk from Home posted:

I'm going to buy some of this, I've been lied to by pages and pages of search results telling me to scrub my evaporator coils with vinegar.

The one time I've had a pro out here, they noted that to replace this air handler they'd have to knock a new hole in my foundation. The access door to the crawlspace is tiny, much smaller than the air handler.

Do not use that on the air handler. That stuff is for cleaning the condensate pan and lines. You want something like this stuff and a spray bottle for your evap and condenser coils: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D66YNWA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you get the "self rinsing" kind you can spray it on the (indoor) evap coil and not have to make a mess rinsing, but the same stuff works great on your outside condenser with a spray bottle and hose.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 15:42

PainterofCrap: Oct 17, 2002; hey bebe

It's hard to tell what is beyond the slab, but I'd be tempted to poo poo-can that entire pipe arrangement, move the pump to a spot below the slab in the foreground, and just have a direct drop from the pan outlet to the pump.

You don't need a trap, & that open thing at the top (vent?) will just capture crud.

That way all you have to do is clean the accumulated crud out of the pump tank. In the unlikely event that the short straight run gets clogged it'll be easy to lift it from the pump & unscrew it from the pan outlet.

Also, cover that open hole in the top of the pump with foam or something to keep random crap from falling in.

If you absolutely want a trap, use this:

(it is laying down)

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Sep 27, 2023

# ? Sep 27, 2023 16:40

space uncle: Sep 17, 2006; "I don�t care if Biden beats Trump. I�m not offloading responsibility. If enough people feel similar to me, such as the large population of Muslim people in Dearborn, Michigan. Then he won�t"

PainterofCrap posted:

It's hard to tell what is beyond the slab, but I'd be tempted to poo poo-can that entire pipe arrangement, move the pump to a spot below the slab in the foreground, and just have a direct drop from the pan outlet to the pump.

You don't need a trap, & that open thing at the top (vent?) will just capture crud.

That way all you have to do is clean the accumulated crud out of the pump tank. In the unlikely event that the short straight run gets clogged it'll be easy to lift it from the pump & unscrew it from the pan outlet.

Also, cover that open hole in the top of the pump with foam or something to keep random crap from falling in.

If you absolutely want a trap, use this:

(it is laying down)

I bought this thing to replace the clogged unserviceable trap I had:

Rectorseal 83113 EZ 113 Trap, 3/4-Inch https://a.co/d/2rW0L9S

That way the top vent hole is covered but can be popped open to add cleaner or sweep out the trap crud.

I was told you want a trap because otherwise the air handler will lose efficiency from the open air in the pump, and the open air is also a route for stuff to get into your air handler through your drain line. Not sure how much of that fear is overblown. If you run the drain line all the way down to the bottom of the pump reservoir then the pump itself is acting as a water trap at that point.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 16:58

devicenull: May 30, 2007; Grimey Drawer

space uncle posted:

I bought this thing to replace the clogged unserviceable trap I had:

Rectorseal 83113 EZ 113 Trap, 3/4-Inch https://a.co/d/2rW0L9S

That way the top vent hole is covered but can be popped open to add cleaner or sweep out the trap crud.

I was told you want a trap because otherwise the air handler will lose efficiency from the open air in the pump, and the open air is also a route for stuff to get into your air handler through your drain line. Not sure how much of that fear is overblown. If you run the drain line all the way down to the bottom of the pump reservoir then the pump itself is acting as a water trap at that point.

You definitely need a trap, don't go removing that unless you like conditioning your basement.

# ? Sep 27, 2023 18:25

Beef Of Ages: Jan 11, 2003; Your dumb is leaking.

Trip report!

I quickly surmised early this morning that the door to my befouled garage was a prehung sort which means that replacing one side of the jamb was going to be so tedious, bordering on impossible, to not bear serious contemplation. I hosed off for one of three trips to the hardware store for some research after copious Youtube viewing. My first try was acquiring a repair kit for door jambs but, as noted, it quickly became apparent during my tedious, careful demo of the broken bits that the whole unit was going to need to be replaced. Cue the second trip to the hardware store to return all that poo poo and buy a new door kit.

I acquired a full replacement pre-hung steel door and hauled it home with most of its weight resting on my shoulder because I drive a Subaru. Upon arrival at home and some acetaminophen chased with a local Oktoberfest, I set about the full demo of the old door. It came off easily, other than the construction adhesive on the bottom plate. A few minutes of heat gun combined with rigid scraper and a veritable cornucopia of cursing had everything removed and as clean as it was going to get.

I applied new adhesive and slotted the new door into place, secured and shimmed it, and added a new keypad lock (which wound up being extraneous but at least it has a fresh battery now :downsrim:

). After shimming and attendant adjustments, everything works as it should.

I'm not going to say all this horseshit was easy, but with the helpful insights of Jenkl, Motronic, and others, plus the videos, it was actually not overly difficult to accomplish. The pre-drilled mortise for the latch was of course too low for some reason so I had to shave off a bit of the jamb and raise that but even that wasn't overly difficult. It took me a total of about three hours once I got started, plus three trips to the hardware store.

Now the garage is secure and I can have between 17 and 34 bourbons in relaxation. :hellyeah:

# ? Sep 28, 2023 02:19

PainterofCrap: Oct 17, 2002; hey bebe

Good work by you!

# ? Sep 28, 2023 03:47

Jenkl: Aug 5, 2008; This post needs at least three times more shit!

Well done! By the time the bourbon is done, all you'll have left are the lessons and pride.

# ? Sep 28, 2023 05:00

tuyop: Sep 15, 2006; Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted; Fun Shoe

Why was the keypad lock extraneous?

Great job, by the way

# ? Sep 28, 2023 12:08

The Top G: Jul 19, 2023; by Fluffdaddy

Well done

Be sure to replace the stock strike plate screws with 2 1/2�-3� screws or else your new fancy door will be as easily kicked in as your previous one

# ? Sep 28, 2023 12:15

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

Good work! Now you see why we they sell these things prehung. Actually hanging a door slap, cutting in hinges and stuff, it very much "skilled carpentry", even with a "door kit". Prehung is just bull work with a little shimming (or none at all for a rigid metal door).

# ? Sep 28, 2023 13:55

Beef Of Ages: Jan 11, 2003; Your dumb is leaking.

Thanks, everybody. :cheers:

tuyop posted:

Why was the keypad lock extraneous?

It was less extraneous than I thought. I had a working identical lock on the old door but the fucksticks that broke in took the contents of one of the drawers of my toolbox (but not the others) in yet another peice of randomness. It contained my hammer and both a spare key to the house hidden in the back (our garage is not connected to the house) and the physical key for the combination keypad lock. I changed all the locks to the house this morning and the new garage lock has a different key so now they can't come back and get in again nor can anyone get into the house with that now-old key.

Stole my goddamn hammer, man.

The Top G posted:

Be sure to replace the stock strike plate screws with 2 1/2�-3� screws or else your new fancy door will be as easily kicked in as your previous one

Already done.

Motronic posted:

Good work! Now you see why we they sell these things prehung. Actually hanging a door slap, cutting in hinges and stuff, it very much "skilled carpentry", even with a "door kit". Prehung is just bull work with a little shimming (or none at all for a rigid metal door).

Yep, it only took about 20 minutes of messing around with it to figure out that it was beyond my skill set to do anything other than a complete hack job. The prehung door worked remarkably well and did need some shimming but not a ton.

# ? Sep 28, 2023 15:45

withak: Jan 15, 2003; Fun Shoe

Use one of your other hammers.

# ? Sep 28, 2023 16:06

Beef Of Ages: Jan 11, 2003; Your dumb is leaking.

It was all the way in the basement. What am I supposed to do, walk all the way over there? :cmon:

# ? Sep 28, 2023 16:14

space uncle: Sep 17, 2006; "I don�t care if Biden beats Trump. I�m not offloading responsibility. If enough people feel similar to me, such as the large population of Muslim people in Dearborn, Michigan. Then he won�t"

withak posted:

Use one of your other hammers.

Wow look at Mr. Rockefeller here with >1 hammer. In this economy?

Just use some animal sinew to lash a rock to your wooden club.

# ? Sep 28, 2023 16:20

SouthShoreSamurai: Apr 28, 2009; It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.; Fun Shoe

Door looks slick, good work.

What was the 3rd trip to the hardware store for?

# ? Sep 28, 2023 16:23

Beef Of Ages: Jan 11, 2003; Your dumb is leaking.

SouthShoreSamurai posted:

What was the 3rd trip to the hardware store for?

The new door lock, another pack of shims as I was like two short, and a replacement hammer. I had been using one end of my prybar which was mercifully left behind even though it was next to my hammer.

# ? Sep 28, 2023 17:10

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

Every tool has a hammer side.

# ? Sep 28, 2023 17:11

Jenkl: Aug 5, 2008; This post needs at least three times more shit!

Motronic posted:

Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (Every tool has a hammer side)

# ? Sep 28, 2023 17:23

Beef Of Ages: Jan 11, 2003; Your dumb is leaking.

Jenkl posted:

Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (Every tool has a hammer side)

# ? Sep 28, 2023 17:25

haveblue: Aug 15, 2005; Toilet Rascal

When all you have is a nail, everything looks like a hammer

# ? Sep 28, 2023 17:27

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

Jenkl posted:

This stain on the, I assume, glue down vinyl below the dishwasher has resisted all typical attempts to clean it. Any suggestions?

Late to this, but I have had *unreasonable* success using Mr. Clean Magic Erasers, or generic equivalents thereof.
Those things are amazing. Sometimes a bit too amazing - they can take paint off if you keep scrubbing, and will almost always end up with a matte/dull finish because of what they are. I use them to get red coolaid stains off of our ancient 1960s laminate countertop. Most of its pattern (speckles and gold flecks. Thank you, 1964) has been removed over 50 years of scrubbing, so I don't worry about that part...

Brut posted:

only buy furniture with notches in the back

That was something I noticed first one of those I assembled, when my brother-in-law bought one. I thought that was brilliant.

Motronic posted:

You're looking for, at a minimum, an "adjustable 90", where each segment can pivot. You see where that gets you and then best case maybe you just need a short straight section.

I don't think this is a thing at a big box store.

Home Depot has them. I assume Lowes as well. I put in two vents in my bathrooms (one in each, smartass) and use one on each just in case I didn't get my routing exactly correct for a straight 90. Really handy things to have. My water heater useds at least two of them for it's vent stack because 55 year old house + brand new water heater aren't necessarily compatible out of the box.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-4-in-90-Deg-Round-Adjustable-Elbow-B90E4/100033952

They have aluminum ones, too, BTW.

tuyop posted:

I started recaulking my shower because it was cracked and leaking.

This is my shower. Pretty gross but the former occupants were disgusting so.

Under the right side. I noticed some rot as I was stripping the caulking there, so I ended up pulling off the baseboard to see what I could see. The drywall there is just crumbling and lovely. Looks like some reinforcement was added at some point.

So then I checked out the other side. This is way better because it's slightly higher on this side of the room.

Getting the poo poo inside the shower is hell and the drain stank real bad.

I guess I'm wondering what I do when I get this stripped, cleaned, and dried. What do I do? How bad is this? Should I hire someone? This is very hard on my body but if it's almost over I can probably persevere.

See, this is why I never want to fix anything, because I *know* it's going to be more than just what I see...

# ? Sep 28, 2023 21:09

PainterofCrap: Oct 17, 2002; hey bebe

Jenkl posted:

Two related questions for the thread on some water damage in the kitchen there from before we bought it:...

This stain on the, I assume, glue down vinyl below the dishwasher has resisted all typical attempts to clean it. Any suggestions?

If there is a cut near the edge of the kick panel there, like an inch or so underneath the unit, water may have wicked up under the clear and color layers of the vinyl, in which case: it cannot be cleaned.

I typically see these at exterior doors, particularly sliding doors. Water gets in under the tread strip due to a weatherproofing issue, and stains will develop. Sometimes they're bluish or purplish in color.

# ? Sep 28, 2023 23:30

Jenkl: Aug 5, 2008; This post needs at least three times more shit!

Thanks! Yeah we had tried magic erasers to no avail. We'd concluded it must've gotten under, but had no thoughts as to how or why there until now.

Our plan now is to cover it. We got a thin piece of rubber similar to the flap on the dishwasher itself, gonna glue it down once we're done working on the machine

The dryfit looked decent, better than what's there now for sure.

# ? Sep 28, 2023 23:50

Sir Sidney Poitier: Aug 14, 2006; My favourite actor

What's the best way to get rid of old silicone sealant before replacing it? I've got a plastic scraper thing but it doesn't seem to remove it all and leaves plenty of tiny bits attached to the surfaces. Will steel wool damage tiles and shower tray?

# ? Sep 29, 2023 09:17

tuyop: Sep 15, 2006; Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted; Fun Shoe

Sir Sidney Poitier posted:

What's the best way to get rid of old silicone sealant before replacing it? I've got a plastic scraper thing but it doesn't seem to remove it all and leaves plenty of tiny bits attached to the surfaces. Will steel wool damage tiles and shower tray?

Doing this as well right now and the answer is �fire�

# ? Sep 29, 2023 12:21

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ? May 30, 2024 15:43

wesleywillis: Dec 30, 2016; SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Sir Sidney Poitier posted:

What's the best way to get rid of old silicone sealant before replacing it? I've got a plastic scraper thing but it doesn't seem to remove it all and leaves plenty of tiny bits attached to the surfaces. Will steel wool damage tiles and shower tray?

Razor blades. Sharp ones.
When they stop working good, toss it and get another one.
When that one stops working good, toss it and get another.
Get a lifetime supply of razor blades.

# ? Sep 29, 2023 17:25

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

«‹›279 »