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Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


For some reason, my front entry roof overhang does not have flashing all the way down to the edge which appears to be allowing water to intrude on the side and causing the two boards in the second picture to rot. At some point it looks like someone used caulking (why) but obviously that didn't do anything and probably made it worse. What can I do about this? Neither board seems too bad yet but both are soft where they meet.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Razor blades. Sharp ones.
When they stop working good, toss it and get another one.
When that one stops working good, toss it and get another.
Get a lifetime supply of razor blades.

This is a good post.

I always forget that people who are not in the trades think razor blades are a thing that lasts for like 100x longer than they actually do. There's a reason the average contractor pack of blades is 100 or more. You're getting MINUTES out of a blade when doing work like scraping. Maybe double digit minutes if you buy nice ones.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer
The door to my office/guest room sticks. I think we've trapped every single guest we've ever had. I've finally decided to fix it.

It seems like the best thing to do is just to rehang the door a little lower.

In order to rehang the door I need to get to the hinges, which are covered in about 45 years of the Landlord Special - i.e. they're so painted over I can barely see them.

I asked at Ace Hardware and the guy directed me to a can of paint thinner.

Question: What kind of respirator do I need while using paint thinner? From what I can see an n95 won't cut it.

Question: Is paint thinner even the right thing to use?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I’d probably use a putty knife or similar to scrape paint off the flats and steel wool to take the paint off the hinges. You shouldn’t put thinner or stripper on the hinge while it’s in place.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer
It does seem like a better idea to start with scraping and then move on to other things if necessary. Thanks.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
Paint thinner (assuming we're just talking mineral spirits) won't really do anything to fully dried and cured paint. Do what you can by scraping or sanding, then maybe try something like Oops or another similar cleaner on a rag to soften up and help remove the more stubborn bits.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
The problem is the top of the door sticking? I’m guessing the landlord special got the top of the door, too. You might be able to solve the sticking by just sanding 5 coats of paint off the top.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Anne Whateley posted:

The problem is the top of the door sticking? I’m guessing the landlord special got the top of the door, too. You might be able to solve the sticking by just sanding 5 coats of paint off the top.

I second this post.

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe
Anyone ever use an oscillating tool as a scraper? I just took up a shitload of adhesive from an old floor using an 18 volt one with a scraper attachment.

I’m wondering if there exists a multi tool attachment for scraping caulk off things since like, all the caulk in this house is horrible and has human filth mixed into it and just cracks and doesn’t stop water.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

tuyop posted:

Anyone ever use an oscillating tool as a scraper? I just took up a shitload of adhesive from an old floor using an 18 volt one with a scraper attachment.

I’m wondering if there exists a multi tool attachment for scraping caulk off things since like, all the caulk in this house is horrible and has human filth mixed into it and just cracks and doesn’t stop water.

Yes. And yes. It's this:



I've sharpened them with an angle grinder before for specific purposes but being cheap metal that's not hardened they don't last long.

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe
I feel really reluctant to use metal on tubs and showers because it sounds like it’ll scratch the poo poo out of them. All this stuff is just porcelain and vinyl at this point. Am I stuck with plastic scraper things?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

tuyop posted:

I feel really reluctant to use metal on tubs and showers because it sounds like it’ll scratch the poo poo out of them. All this stuff is just porcelain and vinyl at this point. Am I stuck with plastic scraper things?

It definitely take some experience/touch to make sure you don't destroy those things, but mostly keeping a very shallow angle and knowing when to stop using the power tool and start using sharp razor blades manually on a nice stick like this: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W233-Extended-Scraper/dp/B000FW2NWQ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=razor+scraper+handle&sr=8-4 is what you need to learn. Learn about it in the spots you can't see or that are least obvious.

Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

For some reason, my front entry roof overhang does not have flashing all the way down to the edge which appears to be allowing water to intrude on the side and causing the two boards in the second picture to rot. At some point it looks like someone used caulking (why) but obviously that didn't do anything and probably made it worse. What can I do about this? Neither board seems too bad yet but both are soft where they meet.

Im traveling so this is a short post, just want to give you the right term to search: ‘kick out flashing’

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


Tezer posted:

Im traveling so this is a short post, just want to give you the right term to search: ‘kick out flashing’

Hell yeah thanks!

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Razor blades. Sharp ones.
When they stop working good, toss it and get another one.
When that one stops working good, toss it and get another.
Get a lifetime supply of razor blades.

I've got dozens and was using some in a scraper thing but given the previous owner's decision to get tiles that aren't flat it's a real pain - that's why I was wondering if steel wool would be okay. Razors do work, it's just it'd take loving ages.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!


Laser for emphasis.

Someone installed this, looked at it, and went "yes I am ok with this."

I'm struggling to find matching trim, actually arched trim in general, plus there's a matching window in the next room doubling the work to go that route.

My current plan is to just pull it, cut to fit it level, and fill in the gaps with bondo, all while cursing whoever did this. I have the time and the room isn't fully in use, which makes this an option. Gonna dig for a source on arched trim some more before committing.

Anyone have any actually good ideas?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Jenkl posted:



Laser for emphasis.

Someone installed this, looked at it, and went "yes I am ok with this."

I'm struggling to find matching trim, actually arched trim in general, plus there's a matching window in the next room doubling the work to go that route.

My current plan is to just pull it, cut to fit it level, and fill in the gaps with bondo, all while cursing whoever did this. I have the time and the room isn't fully in use, which makes this an option. Gonna dig for a source on arched trim some more before committing.

Anyone have any actually good ideas?

Have you tried just turning off the laser? Is it really that noticeable w/o it?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

devicenull posted:

Have you tried just turning off the laser? Is it really that noticeable w/o it?

Yeah, that really looks like "standard" grade finishing that nobody will notice unless their attention is called to it.

Arguably that level of fit and finish should not be acceptable at all and it's totally fine to wind to do better and fix it, but you probably want to take a step back, wait a week, and see if you even notice it anymore.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

That trim looks fine to me. It was probably more level when it was installed and poo poo shifted a bit too. I dunno, on the list of stuff in my house that I choose to spend my tiny brain's power on, something like that wouldn't even get noticed, heh.

Edit: if you try to do anything with the trim other than follow the window frame line (like try to rip the trim down to level or try to split the difference of the angle vs level) it's going to just call way more attention to the angled frame. Unless you're saying that the window frame is actually level and the existing trim is hosed up, in which case just carefully pull that one section, reinstall it so it matches the window frame, and caulk/paint the gaps.

mutata fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Oct 1, 2023

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
I'm on year four of staring at this monstrosity and it bothers me more each day.

But my wife agrees with the consensus here that I should get over it, so perhaps I will spend my time and money on the necessary therapy instead.

Edit: no laser



The arch becomes a big arrow that screams "look here for gently caress up."

Edit2: it's at the end of the main hallway upstairs! You can't not see it!

Jenkl fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Oct 1, 2023

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Just ban the laser from that room.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Jenkl posted:

I'm on year four of staring at this monstrosity and it bothers me more each day.

But my wife agrees with the consensus here that I should get over it, so perhaps I will spend my time and money on the necessary therapy instead.

Edit: no laser



The arch becomes a big arrow that screams "look here for gently caress up."

Edit2: it's at the end of the main hallway upstairs! You can't not see it!

Yeah, I get it. The reveal is wrong, it's not level. But that trim is painted, nailed and caulked to the wall. The appropriate time to address it is when you're painting that room because you're going to have to match both wall and trim paint or it will just become even more obvious after the repair.

Whenever I decide to paint a room step 1 is evaluating it for things like this and drywall defects, potential electrical/lighting changes that would necessitate drywall repair, and replacing or adding trim/chair rail/crown molding. All of those things suck more if you didn't alread intend tp paint the room at the end of it.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Oct 1, 2023

Lester Shy
May 1, 2002

Goodness no, now that wouldn't do at all!
I inherited some really ugly cloth high-back dining room chairs from the 90s. They're supposed to be white but they're a gross nicotine color these days. Any ideas for how I can salvage them? Dye? Re-upholstery? I'm really not crafty at all, but I'd hate to just throw them out.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Lester Shy posted:

I inherited some really ugly cloth high-back dining room chairs from the 90s. They're supposed to be white but they're a gross nicotine color these days. Any ideas for how I can salvage them? Dye? Re-upholstery? I'm really not crafty at all, but I'd hate to just throw them out.

Depends on how they're constructed. If you're not particularly crafty but willing to put in some work it's possible you could remove the upholstery, launder or dry clean it, and then put it back maybe. The difficult level and feasibility really depends on how it's attached.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

Jenkl posted:

Edit: no laser





good job it's fixed now

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe

El Mero Mero posted:

good job it's fixed now

OP is still holding the camera crooked tho.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Lester Shy posted:

I inherited some really ugly cloth high-back dining room chairs from the 90s. They're supposed to be white but they're a gross nicotine color these days. Any ideas for how I can salvage them? Dye? Re-upholstery? I'm really not crafty at all, but I'd hate to just throw them out.
You could do a lot of that handheld steam cleaner stuff, but depending on the construction, it might be easier just to replace the fabric. Most drastic option is taking them to reupholsterers. Might or might not be cheaper than finding a cleaner used set

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Anne Whateley posted:

You could do a lot of that handheld steam cleaner stuff, but depending on the construction, it might be easier just to replace the fabric. Most drastic option is taking them to reupholsterers. Might or might not be cheaper than finding a cleaner used set

Consider dining-chair slipcovers. I link to one brand, but there are many.

Deadite
Aug 30, 2003

A fat guy, a watermelon, and a stack of magazines?
Family.
I have these outdoor floodlights that I use during Halloween but I need a better way to mount them. They have a bracket with holes that I usually screw to a wooden stake, but that only allows me to adjust the light side-to-side and I’d rather be able to adjust it up and down. Right now if I want to shine it on something tall I have to drive the stake in at an angle which puts it too low to the ground.



Is there some way I can mount this to a stake horizontally and keep it stable? I don’t have any trees or other structures I can hang it from.

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

Deadite posted:

I have these outdoor floodlights that I use during Halloween but I need a better way to mount them. They have a bracket with holes that I usually screw to a wooden stake, but that only allows me to adjust the light side-to-side and I’d rather be able to adjust it up and down. Right now if I want to shine it on something tall I have to drive the stake in at an angle which puts it too low to the ground.



Is there some way I can mount this to a stake horizontally and keep it stable? I don’t have any trees or other structures I can hang it from.

Get one of these (or something like it); mount the light fixture to a piece of wood that you then mount to the gimbal mount.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Turn them sideways. Then your side to side movement becomes up and down

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Motronic posted:

Yeah, I get it. The reveal is wrong, it's not level. But that trim is painted, nailed and caulked to the wall. The appropriate time to address it is when you're painting that room because you're going to have to match both wall and trim paint or it will just become even more obvious after the repair.

Whenever I decide to paint a room step 1 is evaluating it for things like this and drywall defects, potential electrical/lighting changes that would necessitate drywall repair, and replacing or adding trim/chair rail/crown molding. All of those things suck more if you didn't alread intend tp paint the room at the end of it.

Wife: "I think the living room would really look great with a change of color. What about sea foam green?!"

Motronic: "I'll go get my hammer."

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


SouthShoreSamurai posted:

Wife: "I think the living room would really look great with a change of color. What about sea foam green?!"

Motronic: "I'll go get my hammer."

You joke, but painting is when suddenly all the defects jump out at you.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Darchangel posted:

You joke, but painting is when suddenly all the defects jump out at you.

As soon as you put a bright light at a very oblique angle across your walls it's all really obvious.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
I can't believe I'm the only one who takes their laser room to room.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Jenkl posted:

I can't believe I'm the only one who takes their laser room to room.

Straight and level doesn't matter for finishes/trim. The appearance of level/straight/even does. Very often, actual level/straight/even looks worse than actual, especially in older homes where none of the things you actually need to be level/straight/true are (i.e. framing, walls, floors, ceilings).

I start with lasers and tape measures and math, but I mock things up and adjust as required after that first pass.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Oh yeah I've had to figure that out. My place is only ~30 years old but built into a ravine against retaining walls. My Gary did jack poo poo to manage water, and the ice has had its way with this place.

Even in the window I was posted what bothered me isn't the level, but that it was different than the reveal.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Jenkl posted:

Even in the window I was posted what bothered me isn't the level, but that it was different than the reveal.

Yeah, the reveal is the one you need to have right, not the level as you very painfully know.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I hate painting walls. I'm WAY too anal about it. And spackling for that matter.

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tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe
Three simultaneous projects wearing me down bad. Shower caulking. Replacing flooring. Staining deck.

The deck has just completely ruined my body. All day yesterday on my knees in the hot sun. I have drill blisters. I never want to feel a screw head break off 1-1/2 inches into a half-rotten board again.

All this because I pressure washed it and we decided it would be cool to sand and stain next, give it like five years of life before we reevaluate. What a terrible idea!

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