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Someone photoshop in a wheelchair sitting at the end of the hallway
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Oct 1, 2023 18:17
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| # ? May 30, 2024 08:12 |
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Oct 1, 2023 21:18
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Theres a crack in the hallway ceiling! Do I complain? dunno. I'll mention it next time theyre back I guess. Along with asking for my two LED spotlights back that have disappeared into one of their vans. As the plasterboard in the main room has progressed I've been able to move up the scaffolding for the temporary floor above. Haven't seen this wall unmolested in a while.  With the scaffolding down at the other end I've been trying and failing to sort out the chimney, where it goes through the ceiling.  So I bought another one of these things. A big high temp silicon thing in a metal frame. But I can't make it work well enough to sandwich in into the ceiling with the plasterboard. It says its for upto 200mm flues at up to 45 degrees pitch of roof. Which is exactly me. After faffing about with it and putting slits in the metal and basically wrecking it I re read the small print and basically if youre at the upper bounds of girth and angle it doesnt work. You have to buy a bigger rubber. So ordered that. 50 quid wasted. Next issue. The steel "goalposts" around the bifolds. You might remember installing these in the first place was not without its troubles.  These all need to be covered up with fireboard plasterboard for building regs. Its just heavy pink plasterboard. Maybe its got chemicals in it or soemthing I dunno. I've filled the "I" beam (wrong font for this) section with some wedged/glued in timbers and insulated the gaps ready to take the fireboard on the wall plane face of it. But what to do underneath where it is just steel? I ask the plasterers and they pull lots of faces and basically their mental processes grind to a halt so I have to change the subject to reboot them. Issue is the numbskull who machined them up in the first place ignored me and put flanges and bolts in the bifold aperture.  Ignore the big crack, thats not todays problem. So I can't just glue/adhesive the board to the underside of the steel as youtube suggests as there is that extra crap in the way. I'm going to need to install something to space that and receive the board being screwed up into it. Something like this but not the batten its a bit fat  Bit scared of this but didnt see any other way so rented this   a gun for shooting nails into steel beams  Its got bluetooth and an app? No battery and doesnt plug in but a big thing on it saying it can electrocute you. loving spaceman raygun poo poo. these are the bullets   and the nails  I turn it all the way up and loving BANG  but it still doesnt get the nail all the way in. also first time it didnt shoot a nail just punched that blackened hole.  hmmm. I'd split the timber down the middle as I was going to run one at the front and one at the back. Last minute sanity check and I realise my ventilation pipes down to the utility and for kitchen extraction are running inside that space behind the steel. If I nail in near the back I risk puncturing them.  so instead install them together and dont split the rest of the timbers  Bit of a mess. I tried predrilling a countersunk hole and trying to fire the nail into it. But it didnt work.  So i just smash a load in and grind the heads off. Still seems pretty solid.   cut some insulation into the leftover gaps, not really for insulative properties just to have something rigid behind the fireboard for when its plastered.  and cover it up  Both done  then whip the covers off the other bifold ready for outside work.  Its weirdly open now. Feel unprotected. NotJustANumber99 fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Oct 2, 2023 |
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Oct 2, 2023 22:33
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perfect i can hear david caruso's death screams from here thank you
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Oct 2, 2023 22:55
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Cracks like that in the plaster are normal and will keep happening, you're just going to have to fill them before you paint.
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Oct 3, 2023 08:15
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NotJustANumber99 posted:Theres a crack in the hallway ceiling!  Drywall/plaster cracks seem inevitable, but that aerated brick crack...
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Oct 3, 2023 08:24
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Cracks in aerogel bricks like that one are normal, several space shuttle flights had cracked tiles and survived reentry.
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Oct 3, 2023 08:39
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"That's not today's problem" joining the pantheon of "lets hope they listen to me this time" and "how hard could it be?"
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Oct 3, 2023 13:29
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Considering the consensus has been staring at those aero blocks can break them I figure covering them with tape will be absolutely fine.
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Oct 3, 2023 13:40
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If you can't see it, it's not a problem is my motto.
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Oct 3, 2023 14:38
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Slap some epoxy on it. Epoxy fixes everything.
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Oct 3, 2023 17:15
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Once the plaster is up the bricks will no longer be load-bearing, so it's fine. Then once the paint goes up, the plaster will no longer be load-bearing, so it's fine.
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Oct 3, 2023 19:02
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goatface posted:Slap some epoxy on it. Epoxy fixes everything. Epoxy is probably stronger than air bricks.
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Oct 3, 2023 19:09
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The parge coat under the plaster is some expensive stuff with reinforcing fibres in it, and where there are cracks I've asked them to set mesh into the build up of the plastering too. So it's sort of a joint effort between all the elements to hold itself together. The issue there is where the green oak bears on the walls. As it has dried out and shrunk it's tried to drag the walls in with it. The oak is sitting, unfixed on steel bearing plates on top of the engineering brick padstones with the idea that they could slide with expansion/ contraction. But they don't seem to have helped really. Maybe they have and it would have been even worse without. The hope is the wood only dries out once so there shouldn't be any further movement now. Minimal anyway
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Oct 3, 2023 19:45
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it takes about a year per inch of thickness for wet wood to dry, so IMO you've got probably four years of drying or so left on those beams
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Oct 3, 2023 20:23
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I’m still getting those cracks appearing from time to time on the stress focuses (window corners etc) and this plaster went in 5 years ago.
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Oct 3, 2023 20:28
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I mean I've been going 3 years
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Oct 3, 2023 20:28
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With the cracks we had I scraped a v shaped divot along the crack to about 3mm thick and deep, filled with a flexible stranded filler such as toupret, then skimmed over with a feathered thin plaster layer, and they did not come back. The toupret has to be treated like a silicone, don't get it anywhere except in the divot and scrape it back while wet, don't let it dry. This won't work on your light weight blocks tho, lol
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Oct 3, 2023 20:41
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Jaded Burnout posted:I’m still getting those cracks appearing from time to time on the stress focuses (window corners etc) and this plaster went in 5 years ago. My plaster all cracked around the mushroom plugs into the plasterboard after about 12 months. Plaster just be like that, I guess
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Oct 3, 2023 21:26
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I’m in a new build (square shape not L shaped) and after about 4 months it stopped the random creaking of stuff. No major cracks, nothing some flexible sealant and paint couldn’t solve.
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Oct 3, 2023 21:26
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NotJustANumber99 posted:it's sort of a joint effort Nice 
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Oct 4, 2023 20:16
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Look who's here for spooky season!
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Oct 4, 2023 22:59
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NotJustANumber99 posted:Not today's problem We did the high temperature silicon flue pipe gasket thing to get the airtightness. It works OK as far as I can tell but we'd already had the test done before we added the stove. I gunged up around the flue pipe with some Orcon-F as well, it's meant to be rated to 70 degrees. We fixed plasterboard to the beam using tek screws, but that was into a 5 thick RHS and the flanges of your beam might have been a bit chunky for that. Either way, hilti caps are a far more fun way of doing it..
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Oct 5, 2023 00:06
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NotJustANumber99 posted:I re read the small print and basically if youre at the upper bounds of girth it doesnt work. You have to buy a bigger rubber. There's a thread title in this one
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Oct 5, 2023 05:03
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https://www.msn.com/en-GB/travel/ne...apphireappshare
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Oct 5, 2023 14:27
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 Someone did this earlier, I felt the need to update it.
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Oct 6, 2023 14:26
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Oct 6, 2023 18:37
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This thread is the best Photoshop thread
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Oct 6, 2023 20:10
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CancerCakes posted:This thread is the best Photoshop thread  but none of these are edits?!?!?!
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Oct 6, 2023 20:22
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got rid of that bullshit chimney rubber. got a bigger one. much better then plasterboard over  progressing with plasterboarding ceiling in great room  mainly working alone so find it easier to put up sheets in halves. yeah more joints but its getting done  need to sort out the skylight reveals. Going to use some insulated board around the upstand as it is basically just timber to the the outside world and forums suggest this will like prevent condensation here. Then I need a 12.5mm edge bead to wedge this in just beneath the glass to allow the plasterers to finish nicely against my infinity glazing.   Difficult to get, had to drive to a farflung travis perkins. They wanted a tenner a go. i said no. they suggested £2.50. er... yeah FFS after people have just attempted to screw you four times over and you just caught them out... zero hit. They just roll straight through it. Heres what it looks like trimmed up and attached to the marmox board  and then bammed in the skylights    So I've done most of the ceiling at this point. Plasterer appears a few times to ask me the same poorly formed question. I eventually establish what hes saying is I've hosed up. I thought it was a good idea to like span the joints on the plasterboard into the middle of the rafters. I forget why now. But yeah the plasterer says this is dumb as poo poo and wont work. Like you can see here in this picture again, the fixings arent at the edges of the plasterboard Now he says it. Yeah. loving obviously. What a moron. glad they waited until I'd done almost the whole room before mentioning it. He says dont worry it will probably be fine. Like 15 times. Its too many times. I google if theres some super special fixings that can fix into PIR insulation. yeah. nah. New plan.  So I have some left over metal sheet. I'll slide it inbetween unsupported joints and screw in little screws to sandwich it together. Test bed seems good.  Hold it up and yeah, even just the screws in the PIR help a bit. Joint effort. Oh yeah also the plasterers at this point are in the utility room and ask if i have any lights. Yeah mate i did. but you stole them. Lol its all very cordial and apologetic. So they turn back up with them a coupkle of days later  Yeah I had two small ones. now ive got one small one and one big one. Despite having no lights, utility room looks good    Anyway where I havent finished the plasterboard yet, its easy enough to add my metal gently caress up connection inserts   Works great. so rigid. so hard But every other joint is gonna be a ballache  Slide them in and screw up  Oh and blown up another jigsaw https://i.imgur.com/Wv1ScDg.mp4 weird. Think I can get the ryobi one plus repaired under warranty but will take forever so buy another cheap one. Not as cheap as that blown up one 
NotJustANumber99 fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Oct 6, 2023 |
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Oct 6, 2023 22:59
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You go through tools like a true professional.
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Oct 6, 2023 23:04
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hosed up the video like a tool. fixed
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Oct 6, 2023 23:11
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Could always get that one repaired under warranty and then you'd have two jigsaws for when the other one blows up. And then get that one repaired so you will have it around for when the other one blows up again...
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Oct 6, 2023 23:14
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if this year has taught us anything, its that this device will definitely buckle under pressure
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Oct 6, 2023 23:31
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NotJustANumber99 posted:I'll slide it inbetween unsupported joints and screw in little screws to sandwich it together Good recovery. Do the screws you're using on the metal backing say fine or coarse thread?
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Oct 7, 2023 00:26
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Horatius Bonar posted:Good recovery. Do the screws you're using on the metal backing say fine or coarse thread? An extra-deep insert bit recess delivers a firmer positive drive. Along with an incredibly sharp piercing point and coarse thread, you’ll be sure of a speedy insertion and improved holding power.
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Oct 7, 2023 00:39
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Well before you get too far, I would suggest looking at getting fine thread screws for going into metal.
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Oct 7, 2023 01:03
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Horatius Bonar posted:Well before you get too far, I would suggest looking at getting fine thread screws for going into metal. The Plasterer posted:He says dont worry it will probably be fine. Like 15 times. Its too many times. someone tried to tell him to use fine thread
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Oct 7, 2023 01:14
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 That's a pretty nice boat you've got going on. Plenty of room for cargo.
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Oct 7, 2023 01:30
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| # ? May 30, 2024 08:12 |
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quote:Cut the chatter, Red 2. Accelerate to attack speed.
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Oct 7, 2023 10:16
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