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Blaziken386
Jun 27, 2013

I'm what the kids call: a big nerd
currently building HG Aerial, and this is probably my favorite one yet in terms of both design (which is why i bought her) and sturdiness. she is loving rock solid and it's great.

also gonna try my hand at panel lining soon. two questions:

1: do i need a top coat to prevent it from smudging down the line
2: in the event that I DO use a top coat, what should I do about the stickers, or, in aerial's case, the clear pieces on the torso? do I need to cover them with painters tape or something?

e: page snipe, have a chuchu

Blaziken386 fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Oct 8, 2023

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Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

If its a gloss coat it should be fine over the shell units. If matte, remove those parts or mask them off before topcoating. Stickers and decals are fine to topcoat.

Qylvaran
Mar 28, 2010

Speakina HG Aerial, I picked up some waterslide decals from Ali Express, but there's no guide to where they go. I don't want to just guess, but I'm probably going to have to. There are a couple pictures with them applied on the store page, but I don't think everything's visible.

I also got some glow-in-the-dark waterslides for my HGUC Zaku II. These ones seem very freeform, with lots of numbers and various rank insignias. Is there a website with a guide to universe-accurate markings, and maybe some characters' personal suits?

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Whatever looks good for me. Chest and shoulders for big ones then caution stickers everywhere else

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Blaziken386 posted:

currently building HG Aerial, and this is probably my favorite one yet in terms of both design (which is why i bought her) and sturdiness. she is loving rock solid and it's great.

I just finished the build on a PBandai Permet-6 Aerial and OMG this is a good kit. She poses better than anything else I've built.

Now to do the extra stickers and the panel lining.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice




Just an absolutely unbelievable kit. I'm amazed I managed to finish it without losing a single part because there are just so many metal accents and small moving bits it felt inevitable at times. I need a break.

free Trapt CD
Aug 22, 2013

*~:coffeepal:~*
I've got plenty of java
and Chesterfield Kings

*~:h:~*

Pierson posted:





Just an absolutely unbelievable kit. I'm amazed I managed to finish it without losing a single part because there are just so many metal accents and small moving bits it felt inevitable at times. I need a break.

This is immaculate work here, congrats! The 2nd photo could be on the box and I wouldn't bat an eyelid.

Speaking of the RG Hi-v, has anybody here built the Gundam Base 'Titanium Finish' version of it (or any kit, really)? I'd like to build this kit eventually and can't guarantee an excellent finish myself so it'd be tempting, but on the other hand if the plastic will suck to work with and destroy my nippers I'm not keen, especially on something with so many parts. I did the gold-plated HG Hyakushiki and while that was worthwhile I definitely got the sense it was harder on the nippers.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
It won't wreck your nippers but the issue will be the one that every titanium/metallic kit has: Nub marks are almost un-erasable unless the entire kit is under-gated. It's something to do with the injection of the metallics or something, it will leave ugly dis-coloured square marks where the sprue attachment was.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Pierson posted:

It won't wreck your nippers but the issue will be the one that every titanium/metallic kit has: Nub marks are almost un-erasable unless the entire kit is under-gated. It's something to do with the injection of the metallics or something, it will leave ugly dis-coloured square marks where the sprue attachment was.

The finish goes over the outside of the plastic and when you cut it you expose the unfinished plastic. Don't buy a special finish kit that isn't 100% undergated, it looks ok if you don't know much but if you're reading this thread you already know enough to be disappointed by how it will turn out.

Blaziken386
Jun 27, 2013

I'm what the kids call: a big nerd
do y'all have any suggestions for how to not accidentally slice your fingers when removing particularly stubborn runners with the hobby knife, or is it just a practice thing.

i ask, because my thumb is currently very sore.

Tergaso
Mar 4, 2007

My God! Wooden eels! Surface! Surface!

Blaziken386 posted:

do y'all have any suggestions for how to not accidentally slice your fingers when removing particularly stubborn runners with the hobby knife, or is it just a practice thing.

i ask, because my thumb is currently very sore.


Do you have a pair of sprue cutters? When I was younger I only used a hobby knife but a pair of sprue/side cutters/nippers make getting parts off the sprue 95% painless. Even a very cheap pair will be a huge step up. You can then use the hobby knife to trim the little bit of plastic on the part (the nub). If you've got money, a pair of nice sprue cutters will make it even easier.

But regardless of quality, your fingers and thumbs will thank you.

RPATDO_LAMD
Mar 22, 2013

🐘🪠🍆
You can also remove the nub by sanding/filing instead and ditch the knife entirely.

Blaziken386
Jun 27, 2013

I'm what the kids call: a big nerd

Tergaso posted:

Do you have a pair of sprue cutters? When I was younger I only used a hobby knife but a pair of sprue/side cutters/nippers make getting parts off the sprue 95% painless. Even a very cheap pair will be a huge step up. You can then use the hobby knife to trim the little bit of plastic on the part (the nub). If you've got money, a pair of nice sprue cutters will make it even easier.

But regardless of quality, your fingers and thumbs will thank you.
im using side nippers to cut them out and a hobby knife to trim the nub off. the issue is, the parts are very tiny and some of the nubs decide to be stubborn and then the stabbing happens

PlushCow
Oct 19, 2005

The cow eats the grass

Blaziken386 posted:

im using side nippers to cut them out and a hobby knife to trim the nub off. the issue is, the parts are very tiny and some of the nubs decide to be stubborn and then the stabbing happens

Change the hobby knife blade more often. I use a new one at the start of a kit and for extensive kits like a big RG I would replace it midway through. Doesnt take much for a hobby knife blade to get dull to make trimming nibs tough.

Also the thinner you can slice off a nib may help, if the nib is thick/large try and slice off a little at a time, not the whole nib at once.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Blaziken386 posted:

do y'all have any suggestions for how to not accidentally slice your fingers when removing particularly stubborn runners with the hobby knife, or is it just a practice thing.

i ask, because my thumb is currently very sore.

Don't use a hobby knife. Budget wise, here are your options: IGAN-330 $7.50. Stedi MS-100 $18. Stedi MS-106 $26. Dispae 3.0 $30.

The 330, is what I give people when they start the hobby. You.. can't.. break them. They're a double cut nippers. The MS-100's are thinner bladed, and sharper. I feel like they could be broken, but I have not done so yet. I own three, and my kiddos use them. The MS-106 is a single blade nipper, which tends to cut.. straigher? and generally leave a less obvious scar. The blade tends to get stuck in cuts though! The dispae 3.0 is vaguely better. But only a little.

The alternative is use a sharper knife, and a mat to cut on.

Tergaso
Mar 4, 2007

My God! Wooden eels! Surface! Surface!

Blaziken386 posted:

im using side nippers to cut them out and a hobby knife to trim the nub off. the issue is, the parts are very tiny and some of the nubs decide to be stubborn and then the stabbing happens

Ah, I get it now. In that case, I usually press the part against the cutting mat and shave off from the nub until it's small enough to slice the rest off. A new blade may also do the trick, if you use the knife a lot you may want to change it every few HG size kits.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Nerobro posted:

Don't use a hobby knife. Budget wise, here are your options: IGAN-330 $7.50. Stedi MS-100 $18. Stedi MS-106 $26. Dispae 3.0 $30.

The 330, is what I give people when they start the hobby. You.. can't.. break them. They're a double cut nippers. The MS-100's are thinner bladed, and sharper. I feel like they could be broken, but I have not done so yet. I own three, and my kiddos use them. The MS-106 is a single blade nipper, which tends to cut.. straigher? and generally leave a less obvious scar. The blade tends to get stuck in cuts though! The dispae 3.0 is vaguely better. But only a little.

The alternative is use a sharper knife, and a mat to cut on.

Use the nippers.

Skrillmub
Nov 22, 2007


Blaziken386 posted:

do y'all have any suggestions for how to not accidentally slice your fingers when removing particularly stubborn runners with the hobby knife, or is it just a practice thing.

i ask, because my thumb is currently very sore.

Keep your knife sharp, shave less and never put your finger in the path of the blade.
But, it's gonna happen eventually. It happens less as you get better. You'll know how much force you need to get through the nub and not use more.
I have stabbed myself directly into the middle of the pad of my thumb. It hurt for days and days.

Gaius Marius
Oct 9, 2012

Get a thimble

Arc Hammer
Mar 4, 2013

Got any deathsticks?
At my very first job I ended up fileting my thumb with a produce knife so I've always been careful when shaving down nubs with a hobby knife. Once you get used to the plastic you'll know how much force you need.

Gripweed
Nov 8, 2018

Build calluses.

Argas
Jan 13, 2008
Probation
Can't post for 10 hours!

Gripweed posted:

Build calluses.

Gundam Build Calluses

Gunpla Build Calluses?

High-Grade Build Calluses

bowmore
Oct 6, 2008



Lipstick Apathy
Had my first experience with very tiny stickers yesterday

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
For cleaning up nubs I've been a huge fan of those glass nano files. You can pick up a pair pretty cheap on Amazon, and with a little water they'll eat through the nub and leave a perfectly smooth (if a bit glossy) surface behind.

If you don't paint, a magic eraser is good to match the surface to the satin of the rest of the plastic.

Mr E
Sep 18, 2007

For nubs now I love glass files after using one on the last model I did. Before that I preferred using sanding sticks or sponges with increasing grain to get rid of any nub marks. Of course, it's best to start with a good single blade nipper like mentioned above and you can avoid marks at all a lot of the time.

redstormpopcorn
Jun 10, 2007
Aurora Master

Blaziken386 posted:

do y'all have any suggestions for how to not accidentally slice your fingers when removing particularly stubborn runners with the hobby knife, or is it just a practice thing.

i ask, because my thumb is currently very sore.

What kind of blade are you using? If it's like an X-Acto #11 I'd just go smaller, like the Mr. Hobby MT701. I've found the stubbier blades are easier to control since there isn't an extra centimeter of cutting surface past the point of contact.

Blaziken386
Jun 27, 2013

I'm what the kids call: a big nerd
thank you thread for the advice

in other news: Aerial!!


no backpack or weapons yet, but goddamn she looks so cool

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"

Blaziken386 posted:

thank you thread for the advice

in other news: Aerial!!


no backpack or weapons yet, but goddamn she looks so cool

Just on the topic of backpacks; get the flight pack now-ish if it's of interest to you, reprints on accessory sets are spotty at best.

Prof. Banks
Apr 22, 2015

Computer lab day! Time to spend 45 minutes trying to load pokemon.com!


Skrillmub posted:

never put your finger in the path of the blade.

This is the not so secret, secret that I've discovered after slicing my thumb open a dozen times.



SnakesRevenge posted:

If you don't paint, a magic eraser is good to match the surface to the satin of the rest of the plastic.

Seeming to just replace nub marks with glossy patches is why I abandoned my glass files after a couple of kits. So if this is true it'll be big.

Waffleman_
Jan 20, 2011


I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna!!!

HG Aerial is such a good kit.

Blaziken386
Jun 27, 2013

I'm what the kids call: a big nerd

Neddy Seagoon posted:

Just on the topic of backpacks; get the flight pack now-ish if it's of interest to you, reprints on accessory sets are spotty at best.
part of me wants it but another part of me is concerned that its a backpack which costs more than aerial herself when shipped. you'd think accessory kits would be like. Five bucks.

Prof. Banks posted:

Seeming to just replace nub marks with glossy patches is why I abandoned my glass files after a couple of kits. So if this is true it'll be big.
i was actually considering picking up glass files next time i was out just because replacing my sandpaper files was getting annoying. are they not actually that good?

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

The problem was they’re providing a mirror finish when you just want a satin. Not a problem if youre topcoating or painting though

chiasaur11
Oct 22, 2012



Accessory kits generally are cheaper. At retail, the jetpack is 800 yen, while the Aerial itself is 1300 yen. It's a more-or-less standard price gap between accessory pack and main kit.

I suspect the issue here is that the Aerial is easier to get lately, so the accessory pack is more likely to get markup. As said, accessory packs tend to get fewer reprints in the mainlines, so if you don't get it on release, it's harder to find one.

Prof. Banks
Apr 22, 2015

Computer lab day! Time to spend 45 minutes trying to load pokemon.com!


Blaziken386 posted:

i was actually considering picking up glass files next time i was out just because replacing my sandpaper files was getting annoying. are they not actually that good?

Works great at getting rid of the nubs without leaving the little divots or stress marks that the knife occasionally leaves behind. Plus, you don't ever end up with a chopped up thumb. But as I was saying, it also often leaves the area around the nub with a shiny gloss finish that really stands out against the matte plastic and is, at least in my opinion, more noticeable and uglier than the aforementioned marks left from just shaving away the nubs with a knife.

This is probably irrelevant for anyone that does a matte topcoat on their kits, but I generally just straight build and panel line. I don't have the time, space, or cash for topcoating right now. I may go back through and do it if I ever buy and set up the space for a painting setup, but for now it's not in the cards.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Waffleman_ posted:

HG Aerial is such a good kit.

It really is. I just finished the build on the HG Permet 6 variant. This is very much at the high end of the scale for HG kits. Pics when I finish the panel lining.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Blaziken386 posted:


i was actually considering picking up glass files next time i was out just because replacing my sandpaper files was getting annoying. are they not actually that good?

They're great, that's why you gently hit it with a melamine sponge after the glass file. It dulls the finish a bit to bring it closer to the untouched plastic.

trunkh
Jan 31, 2011



Midjack posted:

They're great, that's why you gently hit it with a melamine sponge after the glass file. It dulls the finish a bit to bring it closer to the untouched plastic.

As a newbie myself grappling with these issues, any chance of some blow by blow pictures?

free Trapt CD
Aug 22, 2013

*~:coffeepal:~*
I've got plenty of java
and Chesterfield Kings

*~:h:~*

Pierson posted:

It won't wreck your nippers but the issue will be the one that every titanium/metallic kit has: Nub marks are almost un-erasable unless the entire kit is under-gated. It's something to do with the injection of the metallics or something, it will leave ugly dis-coloured square marks where the sprue attachment was.

Midjack posted:

The finish goes over the outside of the plastic and when you cut it you expose the unfinished plastic. Don't buy a special finish kit that isn't 100% undergated, it looks ok if you don't know much but if you're reading this thread you already know enough to be disappointed by how it will turn out.

Thank you both, sounds like the regular retail release is the one for me then. Metallic gold marker got me through the problem on the HG Hyakushiki but there's not the markers or time to do so on an RG...

Blaziken386 posted:

im using side nippers to cut them out and a hobby knife to trim the nub off. the issue is, the parts are very tiny and some of the nubs decide to be stubborn and then the stabbing happens

Don't know how much it'll count, but I've gotten a lot of mileage out of using a 2nd pair of nippers for clean-up cuts like Nerobro suggested. The red-handled Godhands were what I had easy access to and they've kept me out of trouble for a year now, though admittedly working around curves can be frustrating and you have to be deliberate with colored plastic to avoid stress marks. Admitting that I'm a clumsy person right out the gate and working around it helped avoid a lot of strife.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

trunkh posted:

As a newbie myself grappling with these issues, any chance of some blow by blow pictures?

This page is for an overpriced product, but it does what is being talked about and has pictures and video: https://www.gunprimer.com/gate-remover-set

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SgtSteel91
Oct 21, 2010

claw game handjob posted:



Well that took nine months too many.

Man, I got Valimar months back but I've never done Gunpla before and I get nervous I'm going to mess something up, like clip a piece of a part instead of the nub or slice a piece in half trying to shave the nub off, since Valimar is one of my favorite mechs.

I ended up buying this Bandai Spirits model kit so I could practice

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