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Yooper posted:Thanks! Is there a comparable unit today that "just works"? Bambu P1? Prusa Mk4? Bambu Just Works(tm). I got an X1C and aside from the default PETG profile and slicer settings being *rear end*, it just works. PEI plate has amazing adhesion, the printer calibration thing now works on a textured sheet, and I have yet to have a failed print since the teething issues were resolved via calibration prints. Why yes! 10% fan on a 100% overhang with petg sounds like it'll work amazing!
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Oct 9, 2023 22:35
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Yours doesn’t constantly fail to remove all the junk on the nozzle and then throw it all over the print? Lucky
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Oct 9, 2023 22:48
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Tiny Timbs posted:Yours doesn’t constantly fail to remove all the junk on the nozzle and then throw it all over the print? Lucky For dry PETG no, for wet PETG absolutely. Looked like I silly stringed my print.
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Oct 9, 2023 22:59
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For me it’s just the purge plastic. Seems like even odds it ends up in the bin or turns into a little wrecking ball getting knocked around the build plate.
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Oct 10, 2023 01:23
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Getting reqdy to just totally replace the hotend and extruder on this Kobra max. Misbehaving extremely hard in some annoying ways. Moved the extuder to be direct drive with a 3d print, and improved the cooling with some 5015s.... Not it decides to randomly stop extruding, I get frequent clicking out of the extruder, and I'm constantly fighting how goopy the nozzle is. Seems to me that it's largely the fault of a bunch of low quality components stacking up to make things really dogshit and inconcsistent
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Oct 10, 2023 02:03
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Trip report from the Ender 3 S1 Pro: everything went better than expected and nothing has failed yet. I followed this guide to level it and just started printing random bullshit and it Just Worked. Now I'm printing puzzle boxes for my TTRPG campaign and they're coming out dandy. Pretty happy considering it was free, I was worried it would be a chore because all I hear about are the Bambus and the Neptunes being the hot poo poo plug and play. If a literal idiot like me can run this thing anyone can. Coming from resin experience has been a learning curve though just for the setup et cetera. Like way less paranoia about supports, way more about leveling, and the fact that it takes so freakin' long to get anything made. It's frustrating knowing that I can't even speed it up by using the whole build plate like with a Mars or whatever. Is that even a thing with FDM, filling the build plate? I'm worried the print head will bump into things and make a mess.
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Oct 10, 2023 03:18
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Nah, you can utterly stuff the build plate with small things. Some printers/firmwares will let you even cancel specific objects if one gets knocked off.
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Oct 10, 2023 03:23
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Using the whole plate is really only a thing for having to check-on/clear it less frequently. You save a little bit of travel time, but not a huge amount compared to doing individual pieces iirc.
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Oct 10, 2023 03:42
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IMO the risk of a single piece failing and taking the whole plate with it isn't worth the reduced manhours of pulling prints off and starting them again
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Oct 10, 2023 03:47
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Depends on the object, I would not do a plate of 15 D&D scale minis as the odds of >1 loving up are high. But a similarly sized grid of leather stamps or another uncomplicated print I would fire and forget without hesitation
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Oct 10, 2023 04:19
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The time savings when printing multiple objects on one plate with FDM are almost non-existent. I do it all the time because I gently caress up my scheduling and the only way I can get an order out on time is to have my printers going all-out while I'm sleeping, but there's basically no advantage other than not having to clear the plate and restart after every print. I'd never do it with very large/long prints just because I'd lose so much time and material if one hosed up. I've got a full plate going on one of my P1s right now and the time saved on a 10 hour print was like 20 minutes or something stupidly small like that. Worth it so I don't have to keep walking downstairs but that's about it.
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Oct 10, 2023 04:50
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For sure the time/effort savings is not in direct print time itself. In my example (leather stamps) if I know I will run through multiple of them it's worth slicing a 5 hour print of 15 scrabble tile sized stamps vs. stopping other tasks every 20 minutes to pick one stamp off, scrape off the skirt and purge line, and fiddle with the ender 3 uni-knob to start another copy of m_dagger_stamp.gcode
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Oct 10, 2023 05:18
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FDM printers have to move the head along every inch of the toolpath to make the object. If you double the number of objects, you've doubled the toolpath length, and also the print time. There aren't any time savings from ganging up parts on a bed except for the labor time switching jobs, and ancillary stuff like warmup/cooldown between prints. It's definitely worth putting a ton of parts on the bed if you have to print a ton of parts, though, because that time does add up. MSLA resin printers are amazing that way. It's still wacky to me that it takes the same amount of time to print twenty parts as it does to print one part, as long as the overall height of the job is the same. Reasons to not gang up parts on the bed: If you're concerned that one is really sketchy and might fall off and ruin the whole job, or if you're especially concerned about stringing or marking when the tool goes from one object to the next.
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Oct 10, 2023 05:26
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For small objects it may be beneficial to have multiples because of minimum layer times.
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Oct 10, 2023 07:24
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"Your" time matters too. Clearing the bed, starting the next print, takes time, and takes scheduled time. If I can fill a bed and ignore the printer for a whole day, i'm better off than having to address it every 2-4-6 hours. And as noted, minimum layer times too. When printing lots of objects, I aim for ~24 hour~ plate times.
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Oct 10, 2023 10:17
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Rad-daddio posted:Anyone with a Saturn 2 have it's screen just randomly stop working? Definitely contact them but what are you seeing? Pretty much every printer that came out at the same time as the Saturn 2 or before has a really dumbshit design where the LCD is right next to the vat. This means any sort of force causes a ton of wear and tear on the screen. luckily, elegoo's support is killer. Saturn/Saturn2 are great machines, but I'm at the point where I'm now only looking at machines like the saturn 3 which have glass in between the vat and the lcd.
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Oct 10, 2023 15:43
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However, I would definitely do a test run of maybe 2-3 objects before filling the bed if you aren't supremely confident in your printer/settings/filament. Any stringing problems really can gently caress up the exterior surfaces of your parts and leave you with a messy clean-up or even ruined prints, depending on how important surface quality is for whatever you're doing. Doesn't matter if everything is 100% dialed in, but I've definitely had a plate of prints ruined once or twice because I grabbed an old roll of filament without thinking. Minor stringing that wouldn't otherwise matter can also be a bigger deal when it's all up on the outside of your print.
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Oct 10, 2023 15:44
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Any advice on how to best hide a seam on a model? I printed a bunch of deck boxes to store some commander decks I've accumulated and I love the design of the box. Initially, I was having a spotty seam in the front of the model that I thought was just a misprint at first, since it was harder to spot on the lid side of the model. However, it was consistent enough that I eventually looked up some info and found seams and some different settings related to them. I sliced the model again using the rear seam option so it at least wasnt on the show side of the case, but now it's a very clear and consistent line the whole height of the model. It feels like kind of a non-ideal trade. I saw settings for random seams, but that sounds like it will give the whole model acne. Is rear seam just the best option, or is there a trick to hiding them completely? This model also had a thin wall that kept melting and pulling some material off in one spot. It was at the top of the model and the layer times were pretty quick so I messed with the settings to slow it down on short layers. The first print with these new settings looks much better in this spot, but I also increased infill from 15% to 25% and I'm not sure if that could impact this kind of problem as well. Any advice on seams or layers that may be printing too fast/peeling away would be appreciated. Thanks all.
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Oct 10, 2023 15:54
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If you have good filament and very well calibrated extrusion multiplier scatter/random seam almost disappears. That being said, if what you're doing has a square corner, rotate it until it's in the back (ie, if it's a square, rotate it 45 degrees).
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Oct 10, 2023 16:06
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Anyone using one of the Y-splitter designs on their Bambu printer? Thoughts? I got a roll of TPU the other day, and since it has to be used on the regular spool holder instead of in an AMS I was thinking I'd maybe I'd add a splitter.
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Oct 10, 2023 20:05
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Is the purpose of that to allow for easier feeding in of an off-AMS spool when needed?
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Oct 10, 2023 20:10
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Snackmar posted:Anyone using one of the Y-splitter designs on their Bambu printer? Thoughts? I use and like this one: https://www.printables.com/model/430347-y-splitter-bambu-lab That combined with using 3mm ID tubing throughout the system has run well and eliminated the occasional retraction errors I was getting.
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Oct 10, 2023 20:22
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The Eyes Have It posted:Is the purpose of that to allow for easier feeding in of an off-AMS spool when needed? Yeah, it's so you just thread the new filament in instead of having to mess around with changing ptfe tubes.
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Oct 10, 2023 20:31
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NofrikinfuN posted:Any advice on how to best hide a seam on a model? I printed a bunch of deck boxes to store some commander decks I've accumulated and I love the design of the box. Sounds like you need to make friends with the concept of extrusion multiplier. Go do the andrew ellis tuning guide, and your seams will become a non-issue. Generally, if your seams are big zits or nasty, you're overextruding, and or have your retraction and coast set .. wrong. You shouldn't need more than 15% infill... To get really good advice, we need to know material, temp, printer, and vague print settings. Layers, speeds, cooling... Long story short, get us photos, you're in a position where you don't know enough to describe what you're really running into. "reading prints" is a reasonably high level skill when it comes to FDM printing.
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Oct 10, 2023 20:47
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so any of you other etsy shop havers getting insanely busy now? This is my first actual buying season with a store with a ton of reviews and sales and lol oh dear. beginning of october was slow but the last couple days have ramped into high gear
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Oct 10, 2023 20:49
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Nerobro posted:Sounds like you need to make friends with the concept of extrusion multiplier. Go do the andrew ellis tuning guide, and your seams will become a non-issue. Generally, if your seams are big zits or nasty, you're overextruding, and or have your retraction and coast set .. wrong. You shouldn't need more than 15% infill... Sorry, I realized as I was typing it up I should have snapped some pictures. Unfortunately I did run out of the filament I used on most of these and had to switch, so that might confound the issue a bit. Here is one of the early attempts, where you see a visible seam on the front and some material that was pulled away from the upper right:  Most of the attempts had a slightly less visible seam on the front, but not by much. The most recent attempt, with higher infill and settings to slow down fast layers:  Here the upper right looks a lot better. However, having moved the seam to a rear alignment in the slicer, here's what the back looks like:  Not only is the seam more noticeable, but you can see at the top it actually duplicates the seam on the opposite side once the cutout starts. It still looks better overall since the show side doesn't have the defects, but I'd like to either remove the seam or failing that make a matching seam on the opposite side so that it's symmetrical at least. If some corrections would make a randomized seam invisible, that would be ideal. Thanks for the input. Edit: It just occurred to me that the imperfection in the top right is probably the seam that was moved to the back in the last picture. 
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Oct 10, 2023 23:14
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queeb posted:so any of you other etsy shop havers getting insanely busy now? This is my first actual buying season with a store with a ton of reviews and sales and lol oh dear. beginning of october was slow but the last couple days have ramped into high gear Quiet ish for me, but I'll say again double check your pricing if your getting slammed. Last time I remember you were selling painted tiles for basically nothing so you might be hitting the budget crowd hard
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Oct 10, 2023 23:17
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Bambu Labs X1-E product page is up. $2,500. https://bambulab.com/en/x1e
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Oct 10, 2023 23:41
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Woof, that's enterprise pricing, for sure.
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Oct 10, 2023 23:44
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I was worrying I would regret buying my X1C two weeks ago but now I’m good lol
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Oct 10, 2023 23:46
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Tremors posted:I use and like this one: https://www.printables.com/model/430347-y-splitter-bambu-lab Thanks! I've ordered the necessary connectors, I'll give that one a try when they arrive
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Oct 10, 2023 23:59
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queeb posted:so any of you other etsy shop havers getting insanely busy now? This is my first actual buying season with a store with a ton of reviews and sales and lol oh dear. beginning of october was slow but the last couple days have ramped into high gear
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Oct 11, 2023 00:20
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Yeah I'm at 11 sales and just shy of 1k today so far, probably cross that mark before midnight which is great. I haven't sold a ton of FDM stuff lately, mainly minis, but today I've sold like 6 printable scenery fdm buildings north of $100 each.
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Oct 11, 2023 00:34
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Ohh so perfect time to sell the one item I'm think of listing... Gunna not be great I'm sure. As a hobbiest seller very part time seller I'm not getting my hopes up.. but I've at least got a thing that not 100 ppl are selling. I need to get some good pics on Thursday when I'm home
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Oct 11, 2023 |
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Oct 11, 2023 00:41
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It's funny cause you read the Etsy seller subreddits and they're very big on excellent photos and all this, meanwhile I just toss up whatever jpeg renders you get from the patreons up and that's all. Different expectations I guessw00tmonger posted:Quiet ish for me, but I'll say again double check your pricing if your getting slammed. I realize now a lot of it is that $10 off 40 thing etsy has going on the next few days, assload of building sales from that queeb fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Oct 11, 2023 |
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Oct 11, 2023 01:07
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Only 60 C chamber temp on x1e? That seems... Weak. I guess the target is nylon.
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Oct 11, 2023 01:10
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How many other enclosed printers have active chamber heating? Genuinely asking out of curiosity. Though for the $2500 asking price the 60C limit in that aspect does seem weak
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Oct 11, 2023 01:14
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Listerine posted:Bambu Labs X1-E product page is up. $2,500. YOINKY FUCKEN SPLOINKY Hell yeah, I’m off my credit card next month I’m all in.
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Oct 11, 2023 01:40
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NofrikinfuN posted:Sorry, I realized as I was typing it up I should have snapped some pictures. Unfortunately I did run out of the filament I used on most of these and had to switch, so that might confound the issue a bit. Edit: Yaknow how.. Bambu is questionable for the community. https://x.com/3dpNero/status/1711891305222017068?s=20 They're allowing accounts to do .. some rather nasty stuff, and are ignoring takedowns. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Oct 11, 2023 |
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Oct 11, 2023 01:48
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queeb posted:It's funny cause you read the Etsy seller subreddits and they're very big on excellent photos and all this, meanwhile I just toss up whatever jpeg renders you get from the patreons up and that's all. Different expectations I guess It's because the gaming/hobbyist space isn't eating the same torrent of poo poo that a lot of Etsy sellers need to deal with nowadays. Miniatures, terrain, custom board game stuff, etc. is never going to produce enough revenue to attract the scammers, and you actually need to have some manufacturing capacity to compete. Lots of sellers who do handmade decor, jewelry, and things like that need to compete with a flood of dropshipped or print-on-demand crap. There are some huge (like industrial-scale) 3d print shops that do this stuff, but there's also an insane amount of demand for nerd poo poo to go around. Etsy is really just a side gig of a side gig for me, but I've had stuff like a genuinely crappy dice tower that I designed listed for over a year and it makes me a $100-200 bucks per month even though I put basically zero effort into the listing or even the model itself. There are a bajillion dice towers on Etsy, but since they're mostly being sold by actual shops and not MAKE SIX FIGURES PER MONTH SELLING ON ETSY scammers there's still plenty of demand to go around.
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Oct 11, 2023 03:39
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