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tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


mewse posted:

Out of fibreglass - not trying to be glib, the process is to build the plug, then apply fiberglass to the outside of the plug to form the mould, then apply fiberglass to the inside of the mould to form the fiberglass product you intended in the first place

e: it would be interesting to know how that mould was segmented and structurally supported though with that wooden frame

gocha I didn't know I'm not a fiberglass mold maker so was curios if they just needed the 3d printed stuff as a base to lay the fiberglass and the mold ot push it down or something.

in poo poo I did today.. My tube for my dehumidifier keeps popping out of the sink it trains to so when it's full and pumps itself empty it becomes a re-humidifier.
I kept saying.. man I wish someone had a mount or bracket so I can just keep the tube in the sink.
Well poo poo I have a 3d printer. On a call I didn't have to pay much attention to Fabbed up v1 adn printed it, made some changes after the prototype and now my tube is in a bracket on the sink.

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Oct 13, 2023

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mewse
May 2, 2006

tater_salad posted:

gocha I didn't know I'm not a fiberglass mold maker so was curios if they just needed the 3d printed stuff as a base to lay the fiberglass and the mold ot push it down or something.

Me neither, but those photos are giving me dangerous ideas for motorcycle fairings

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
Is that 3D printing a car thing a proof of concept "do it because you can" situation? While it obviously worked going by those pictures, it seems bizarre to me to be doing it with 3D printing. Some of that stuff would have taken like half an hour with any decent fabrication and metal working equipment. Molding large, flat sheets of metal into those shapes is exactly what some other stuff does. Wouldn't even need to purchase the machines, if you talk to the right people it's not unusual to rent some time on them when nothing else is going on.

mewse
May 2, 2006

bird food bathtub posted:

Is that 3D printing a car thing a proof of concept "do it because you can" situation? While it obviously worked going by those pictures, it seems bizarre to me to be doing it with 3D printing. Some of that stuff would have taken like half an hour with any decent fabrication and metal working equipment. Molding large, flat sheets of metal into those shapes is exactly what some other stuff does. Wouldn't even need to purchase the machines, if you talk to the right people it's not unusual to rent some time on them when nothing else is going on.

Yeah that guy should get the metal presses that tesla uses and install them in his shed

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

bird food bathtub posted:

Is that 3D printing a car thing a proof of concept "do it because you can" situation? While it obviously worked going by those pictures, it seems bizarre to me to be doing it with 3D printing. Some of that stuff would have taken like half an hour with any decent fabrication and metal working equipment. Molding large, flat sheets of metal into those shapes is exactly what some other stuff does. Wouldn't even need to purchase the machines, if you talk to the right people it's not unusual to rent some time on them when nothing else is going on.

This dude literally did the "you wouldn't download a car" and made one and you're wanting him to buy heavy machinery instead?

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

I think printing the mold bucks is brilliant, and would choose that over trying to do the same thing in metal 27/10 times. The tooling is cheaper, the materials are cheaper, and all the work can be done right on site without having to drag great big heavy work pieces all over town.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
All the work done on site includes the inevitable rework too. Part not quite right or you discover/realize/change something? Doing it again or different doesn't require knocking on doors.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I think it was a "maybe this is easier?" Experiment but he's now proven it's a bad idea. Apparently he's sold it to some metal shaping guys in the Philippines and they're going to use it as a buck to make many out of hand shaped metal (aluminum)

Printers have gotten a lot larger, faster, and slicers offer better features like organic supports. You could likely print the whole car in a quarter the time with a prusa XL or Neptune Max type thing

Re: fiberglass moulds, gets the TL;DR 45 second version


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kyJP7TEtis

And here's the six minute version

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZS4NHSKQ7A

Basically you build the "plug" which in his case he 3D printed. Usually you make this out of multiple parts especially when you have complex shapes (boats can be single piece in most cases) and bolt them together. The fiberglass is tightly fit in there so you add extra reinforcement on the outside of the mould to support the extra forces during "release". From there, you can now make anywhere from 2 to... 10, maybe more than 100 exact copies in fiberglass, kevlar or fiberglass

Pretty much every production power boat and sailboat made in our lifetime was made this way. Most kit cars from the 70s and 80s too especially the ones made from a VW chassis

GIS for "1970's vw kit cars" :eyepop:



Fiberglass is really good at doing low to medium volume swoopy shapes with tight radius bends at medium cost

Fanged Lawn Wormy
Jan 4, 2008

SQUEAK! SQUEAK! SQUEAK!
Metal also is surprisingly difficult to get into a perfect shape if you're not familiar with it, and I think even if you are.

As an example: had these printed arcs that were about 18" long over a 12" radius. We planned on fitting a metal piece over them as a cover - just some 8th inch L-angle.

We don't really have the ability to bend L-angle in our shop.

The original plan was to cut an arc on the CNC, and a thin strip. The strip would be rolled to the radius and then welded to the arcs, and would follow the shape.
The reality was that the heat of the welds and the variation in the rolling was enough that the very ends of the arc shape were not on a continual curve. You could see the arc straighten out flat by about an 1/8 to a 1/16 over the last inch of the run.

The solution? It was easier to mill the whole L-angle on of a 1.25" thick block of aluminum rather than try and weld it. We probably saved money in the long run on the labor.

So yeah, shaping metal within tolerances that are appropriate for a car is something that some amazingly precise work with a material that distorts when heated and resists you at literally every turn.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:

Metal also is surprisingly difficult to get into a perfect shape if you're not familiar with it, and I think even if you are.

So yeah, shaping metal within tolerances that are appropriate for a car is something that some amazingly precise work with a material that distorts when heated and resists you at literally every turn.

Yeah good point. I welded a long strip of plate steel (hammered into shape) to some U channel I made from some rectangular tubing, and the metal got so hot on that end, that the chassis actually warped a 1/4" inward overall. It's not super noticeable from a distance but I had to make some sketchy leaf spring mounts to correct for the warp. So that was fun. Should have tack welded it, then done little sections at a time, letting it cool in between

Here's a bad example but I just love pimping cyclekart stuff. This guy is trying to shape a piece of sheet aluminum into an upsidedown U shape as the hood for his cyclekart. He's got pretty crude tools but takes him pretty much all afternoon to get it within about 1/8" tolerance, PLUS he still needs leather straps to hold it tightly against the frame

Start at about 4:30

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuJ7FE9UjZ8

And then if you have 45 minutes to kill, here is a guy who specializes in sheet metal, forming out a saddle shaped piece of aluminum for a panel that links the arch of the trunk to a fender flare on a 30's style rolls Royce roadster

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMUVoHEcV2U

Just gonna guess but that looks like 4-6 hours of forming the metal, laying it on the buck to check the fit, then going back and doing more forming, over and over, endlessly until it's an exact fit. The skill and patience needed is not inconsequential. Most small batch cars built through the 1950s, especially in Europe, were built this way

Vs. Fiberglass where you just throw it (literally, that's what chopped fiberglass mat is for) in the mould and paint it with epoxy in less than an hour, come back the next day and your door panel or front bumper looks exactly the same as the last 10 you did

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
Anyone here make a filter system like the Nevermore or something else? I'm considering it but digging through the github repo it's somewhat involved and I'm.... lazy?

PlaneGuy
Mar 28, 2001

g e r m a n
e n g i n e e r i n g

Yam Slacker

armorer posted:

Anyone here make a filter system like the Nevermore or something else? I'm considering it but digging through the github repo it's somewhat involved and I'm.... lazy?

Yeah I have a nevermore uh... whatever one fits under the voron 2.4 bed. I thought it was p easy to put together and set up, at least for klipper. There's a weird part where you're hacking away at the fans, but otherwise it's easy to follow.

Son of Rodney
Feb 22, 2006

ohmygodohmygodohmygod

After getting slightly worried about fumes from my pla printing in the living room I built an ikea enclosure and put a normal air purifier in, thinking of building a nevermore in a bit tho. Doesn't seem complicated, just need to buy a few small components. So far the air purifier seems to do it's job pretty well tho!



Also put a washing machine vibration reducing matt under it later, which does seem to reduce vibrations significantly. It's neither stiff nor very soft, cost 18 bux and fits perfectly under the ikea cabinet, might be interesting for people looking for a premade solution.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

That's a good idea :sun:

PLA fumes are fine, according to the internet, but I think it has a sickly smell, so I avoid printing in the room I'm in.

Son of Rodney
Feb 22, 2006

ohmygodohmygodohmygod

Wibla posted:

That's a good idea :sun:

PLA fumes are fine, according to the internet, but I think it has a sickly smell, so I avoid printing in the room I'm in.

I've read that too, but also found quite a few studirs saying they do release VOC and ultrafine particles that are harmful in non-negligible amounts, so it's recommended to avoid being around them for extended periods of time. Either use it in a well ventilated space, filter or extract the fumes, or put it into an enclosure where they will settle after some time.

Tbh I'm just very cautious with this stuff, but the enclosure has multiple other benefits with noise and organization so it's just a good all around package for us.

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



Nothing wrong with being cautious as long as it puts your worries to ease. Also nice to have your printer inside a nice square box to protect it.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?
I find that I like enclosures just because they reduce how often I need to dust and clean the printers. I've had legitimate print quality issues develop from lead screws accumulating a ton of dust, especially after periods where I'm not using one of my printers.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
For years I've been printing almost exclusively PLA, in a room separated from where anyone typically is, so I have been pretty lax about it. My apartment setup now has me a lot closer to the printer though, and I've been upgrading it so that I can now print ABS and nylon. I'll just suck it up and dive in on the nevermore micro build. It sounds like you build the v4, and there's a v5 now that doesn't require you to cut up the fan.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Don't print a nevermore, print this:

https://www.printables.com/model/334276-the-filter-for-voron-24

Much better use of the filter material

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Son of Rodney posted:

After getting slightly worried about fumes from my pla printing in the living room I built an ikea enclosure and put a normal air purifier in, thinking of building a nevermore in a bit tho. Doesn't seem complicated, just need to buy a few small components. So far the air purifier seems to do it's job pretty well tho!



Also put a washing machine vibration reducing matt under it later, which does seem to reduce vibrations significantly. It's neither stiff nor very soft, cost 18 bux and fits perfectly under the ikea cabinet, might be interesting for people looking for a premade solution.



I did something like this for my resin printers. Working really well except I didn't do the math properly to put 2 Saturn's beside each other...

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

Son of Rodney posted:

After getting slightly worried about fumes from my pla printing in the living room I built an ikea enclosure and put a normal air purifier in, thinking of building a nevermore in a bit tho. Doesn't seem complicated, just need to buy a few small components. So far the air purifier seems to do it's job pretty well tho!

That looks great! I don't think I recognize the Ikea bits though - that's not a version of the Lack stuff is it?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Roundboy posted:

Don't print a nevermore, print this:

https://www.printables.com/model/334276-the-filter-for-voron-24

Much better use of the filter material

I'll dig into this as well. For a first pass I'm not going to wire this thing into my board. I'm thinking I'll just hook it up to something like this https://www.amazon.com/ALEDECO-Voltage-Motor-Speed-Controller/dp/B07P2BLG2L and turn it on when I'm running ABS. Can always wire it into the board and make it smart later.

Son of Rodney
Feb 22, 2006

ohmygodohmygodohmygod

Snackmar posted:

That looks great! I don't think I recognize the Ikea bits though - that's not a version of the Lack stuff is it?

No it's a platsa cabinet with a sindvik door, doesn't fit snug but I have it on some printed feet so it works at floor height. I remember reading that platsa is not available in the US, tho.

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

Son of Rodney posted:

No it's a platsa cabinet with a sindvik door, doesn't fit snug but I have it on some printed feet so it works at floor height. I remember reading that platsa is not available in the US, tho.

Hmm, looks like it's not sold in Canada either. There's a double-high Besta that might work though..

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

w00tmonger posted:

I did something like this for my resin printers. Working really well except I didn't do the math properly to put 2 Saturn's beside each other...

Yeah, the Platsa closets are pretty nice for slapping resin printers and such inside, I'm curious about tossing my X1 inside one once I move to quiet it down a bit, but I really wonder if it'll be able to stand up against it.
I'd like to quiet mine down, but I guess the only real way of doing that is to put it outside or something. (Such a shame, not being able to afford an apartment with a bedroom, office, and dedicated workspace room.)
Slapping it inside a closet with a paver and sound dampening foam on the walls only really feels like it would dampen it a bit, never take it down to something like 'could sit next to it watching tv', if I felt like doing that.

My next place will have a pretty big glassed in (openable windows) balcony I have no idea what to do with, I could probably have the printer outside, but I'm not really comfortable with having electronics be 'outside' in damp, norwegian west-coast weather.
( I'll see how it is when I move there this winter, if it's dry and fine when it's frosty and wintery out then I might consider just moving the printer out to a closet there.)

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

armorer posted:

I'll dig into this as well. For a first pass I'm not going to wire this thing into my board. I'm thinking I'll just hook it up to something like this https://www.amazon.com/ALEDECO-Voltage-Motor-Speed-Controller/dp/B07P2BLG2L and turn it on when I'm running ABS. Can always wire it into the board and make it smart later.

What, why? You have a voron? You wire it to literally any voltage comparable output and set the speeds

For example on prints with the door closed I set the fan to recirculate at 25% or so until the auto off 20 min after the print end. Otherwise for abs it's like 50-75% for the same timeframe

Print start/end macros are your friend.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Roundboy posted:

What, why? You have a voron? You wire it to literally any voltage comparable output and set the speeds

For example on prints with the door closed I set the fan to recirculate at 25% or so until the auto off 20 min after the print end. Otherwise for abs it's like 50-75% for the same timeframe

Print start/end macros are your friend.

I don't have a voron, I have two ender 3 pros.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
I'm not familiar with slant3d, but this is pretty interesting. Anybody try the clear or black spools they have sold so far?

https://youtu.be/OQyICyo10Ak?si=-GLs-uLR0oPN11EL

Zorro KingOfEngland
May 7, 2008

I bought a 3 pack of clear. The vacuum bags were punctured in the box (which is an issue they've identified and say they have a fix for). Two of the three rolls have black spots embedded deep in the filament on the spool.

That said it actually prints really nice. Apparently it's a slightly different blend of PLA stock that gives it some different properties from most other stuff. I'm bullish on it once they work the kinks out. Also they're based in Texas so shipping to me was really fast.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

Zorro KingOfEngland posted:

I bought a 3 pack of clear. The vacuum bags were punctured in the box (which is an issue they've identified and say they have a fix for). Two of the three rolls have black spots embedded deep in the filament on the spool.

That said it actually prints really nice. Apparently it's a slightly different blend of PLA stock that gives it some different properties from most other stuff. I'm bullish on it once they work the kinks out. Also they're based in Texas so shipping to me was really fast.
Cool that you tried it and it works pretty well. Hope they have fixes for the spots.

From their video they're in Idaho now, expanding to Texas next year. Quick shipping is nice regardless.

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:
If you set up OctoPrint, when you send something to your printer via wifi to OctoPrint, does it get stored on whatever you have OctoPrint running on, like can you turn your computer off after or do you need the wifi connection to be stable throughout?

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Neo Rasa posted:

If you set up OctoPrint, when you send something to your printer via wifi to OctoPrint, does it get stored on whatever you have OctoPrint running on, like can you turn your computer off after or do you need the wifi connection to be stable throughout?

Yeah, files remain stored on the device running Octoprint, you can turn off the computer or use it for other stuff

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
I have a Photon Mono X. Is there any equivalent to G code for resin printers? Every print I have to enter the tools menu and raise the bed a bunch to get the plate off. Would be nice to just make that happen each time automatically.

fins
May 31, 2011

Floss Finder

bird food bathtub posted:

I have a Photon Mono X. Is there any equivalent to G code for resin printers? Every print I have to enter the tools menu and raise the bed a bunch to get the plate off. Would be nice to just make that happen each time automatically.

iirc chitubox has g-code, but only for specific formats.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Guys why does why my retraction tower look like this?

Ender 3 v2 with a Biqu H2 direct drive extruder. Trying retraction from 0.4mm to 1.0mm at 5mm/s

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

NomNomNom posted:

Guys why does why my retraction tower look like this?

Ender 3 v2 with a Biqu H2 direct drive extruder. Trying retraction from 0.4mm to 1.0mm at 5mm/s

Your image isn't showing up.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


armorer posted:

Your image isn't showing up.

it's like jazz, you have to imagine the tower he didn't print.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG


Creality moment

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Woops sorry


Brand new package of Overture CF PLA, nozzle is a brand new diamondback 0.6

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The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Well if you have two brand new things at once maybe remove one of them and see what happens.

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