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Fozzy The Bear posted:I have about 90 acres out in the bushes. Is there an easy way to map it out with an iPhone and google maps? Get it surveyed. Your local jurisdiction might have a gis application on its website that will show private property boundaries and may have aerial photography that will overlay on it, but even that should be considered "approximate" without a legitimate survey.
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Oct 15, 2023 03:06
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Motronic posted:They know studs won't be there and cover that in the note section: Yeah, I am fine with doing sheetrock work and adding some additional bracing, but I draw the line at trying to fiddle with the gas line. I sort of already wrote this particular hood off as a loss and that's why I was hoping people here might have any suggestions for a different hood. Something set up to catch the studs on standard spacing, or anything less I can handle no sweat.
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Oct 15, 2023 03:28
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Gin_Rummy posted:Yeah, I am fine with doing sheetrock work and adding some additional bracing, but I draw the line at trying to fiddle with the gas line. I sort of already wrote this particular hood off as a loss and that's why I was hoping people here might have any suggestions for a different hood. Something set up to catch the studs on standard spacing, or anything less I can handle no sweat. The gas line should be set back far enough on the stud to where you can fit some 2x material as blocking. Try to figure something out that doesn’t involve moving the gas line so you can save yourself a $600 plumbing bill
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Oct 15, 2023 12:45
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X-post from Discord for those also reading there: My moms flat roof deck had water getting in at the corner, and I need to replace part of the rim joist. Pulling back insulation and outside skirting, I can see how it’s sloped slightly for runoff, but only supported at the extreme ends. What’s the best way to properly support this? Shim the sill plate, or lay a flat sill plate and shim the joist? I assume the latter, but do you shim 16” on centre like it’s a stud wall? Stud walls have top plates. I don’t want to try to rip/bevel a 2x10 face to make a continuous shim unless I have to.     After demo, I’m leaning to ripping a 2x10 to match the slope and a new sill plate on the concrete wall. I hate long rips but I think it’s the best support. As a bonus, the sill around the corner and the old window are also totally destroyed by continuous water intrusion  
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Oct 15, 2023 15:07
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Finally have one. I had my front porch re-done in 1999. Part of that were these casement windows, which have been problem-free so far this century. I do clean & lube them occasionally.  I was doing the fall cleaning when I noticed that some of the windows stick on closing, requiring an inordinate amount of force to lock them. Turns out these...blocks? Shims? have been hammered by UV and are dissolving:  Here's what they are supposed to look like (a window rarely opened):  (I see I still have some cleaning to do). I do not know what make these windows are/were. There are no labels on them anywhere. I'm not averse to fabricating something, but would rather see if I can find them. I have searched "casement window shims" "wedges" "guides" and reviewed a number of component/parts diagrams with no joy.
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Oct 15, 2023 15:11
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Those kinda look like the point of contact at the sill and window unit is still in contact. What makes you think they aren’t doing their job anymore? Wouldn’t any block screwed in that spot accomplish the same function?
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Oct 15, 2023 15:31
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See how the one in the second photo is eroded? It's not contacting anything. At all of the windows with those eroded blocks, they have to be forced hard to lock, and I'm a bit concerned about breaking the latch off.
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Oct 15, 2023 16:03
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I guess I thought the deteriorated one was still in contact on two planes. If not, I totally get wanting to replace them if they’re adding strength and stability. Can’t help with the product term though! Some googling suggests bottom bracket shoe maybe?
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Oct 15, 2023 16:16
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PainterofCrap posted:See how the one in the second photo is eroded? It's not contacting anything. At all of the windows with those eroded blocks, they have to be forced hard to lock, and I'm a bit concerned about breaking the latch off. I'd also make sure that there's nothing on the outside edge of the sash or resting inside the window, if that plastic is deteriorating there might be plastic bits jamming things up.
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Oct 15, 2023 17:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What do you mean by "map it out"? Do you want to know the contents of the acreage? The borders? The elevation? At what level of detail? Sorry, I should have given more details. I had surveyor mark the corners of the property, now I would like to use google maps to get an areal view of the property. I guessed about what it looks like on google maps, but I could be off by 100 meters in any direction because I just estimated based on visible landmarks. It would be cool to have an exact picture using some sort of app.  e: this isn't in a western country btw.
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Oct 15, 2023 21:06
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Did the surveyor provide any kind of map when they set the points? If so you could ask them to export a kml for you, odds are they just have to do a File -> Export or whatever from their GIS or CAD software. Or even if you have the list of coordinates on their paperwork somewhere you can make the outline yourself from something like this.
withak fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Oct 15, 2023 |
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Oct 15, 2023 21:10
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Sorry, I should have given more details. Get a GPS app on your phone, and place it on each of the stakes and record the position. That'll at least get you within ~50ft or so based on your GPS.
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Oct 15, 2023 21:12
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Sorry, I should have given more details. e: also if the surveyor can give you lat/long coordinates for the corners that would help, and/or those may already be available to you if you have the deed/plat records (which may not exist in your country, I have no idea) Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Oct 16, 2023 |
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Oct 16, 2023 01:32
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I have a rickety harbor freight tool stand. It is made of bent sheet metal. I want to attach plywood panels to the sides of the legs it to stiffen it up. The scrap I have laying around is only quarter inch but it should help to prevent shear/wobble. What's the best way to attach the 1/4 inch ply to the metal legs? 1. Drill hole through wood and metal, bolt with washer and nuts 2. Drill hole through metal, very short wood screw into the plywood with the screw head on the metal side 3. Drill pilot hole in the plywood and metal, run a self-tapping screw into it I'm inclined to go with the self-tapping screw. But I figured I'd ask
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Oct 17, 2023 18:16
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I think using just wood screws into 1/4" ply is going to result in a situation where vibration will cause the screws to work their way loose over time. If you're OK with a temporary solution, then go ahead, but the more bulletproof option would be machine screws with matching nuts and washers.
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Oct 17, 2023 18:45
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I think any would be fine, but I personally would go with option1.
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Oct 17, 2023 21:00
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I have one of these because my DSL router keeps getting fried by lightning. But I'm struggling to find a good place to earth it. There's a normal (UK, 3 pin, plastic) electrical socket next to it. I couldn't find any 3-pin sockets that have an exposed earth post or something, do those exist? As far as I can see my other options are: try to see if the screws attaching the socket to the wall are earthed, make a little hole in the socket plate to feed an earth wire out through, ditto for the telephone line socket, or try to piggyback from using an actual intended earth pin in the socket with no actual plug attached? Or just do nothing and try to unplug my modern during thunderstorms until I get ftth ofc.
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Oct 18, 2023 11:04
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Vim Fuego posted:I have a rickety harbor freight tool stand. It is made of bent sheet metal. I want to attach plywood panels to the sides of the legs it to stiffen it up. The scrap I have laying around is only quarter inch but it should help to prevent shear/wobble. If you want to do the self tappers, I’d add beads of construction adhesive just to ensure everything is one cohesive unit. Personally I’d go with through-bolts/nuts/washers Another alternative would be getting the 1/16” aluminum flat stock and using it for cross bracing
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Oct 18, 2023 12:56
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Ignore the sticker, I am indeed soliciting advice. My storm door is maroon, appears to be a factory finish in decent condition. I would prefer that it not be maroon. Does anyone have any recommendations for primer/paint? My preference would be rattlecans. Am I ok just using rustoleum's basic primer? I've used their acid etch primer in the past for bare metal, and really liked it, but my understanding is acid etch on finished metal is a no-go.
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Oct 18, 2023 13:54
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gonadic io posted:I have one of these because my DSL router keeps getting fried by lightning. But I'm struggling to find a good place to earth it. There's a normal (UK, 3 pin, plastic) electrical socket next to it. I couldn't find any 3-pin sockets that have an exposed earth post or something, do those exist? As far as I can see my other options are: try to see if the screws attaching the socket to the wall are earthed, make a little hole in the socket plate to feed an earth wire out through, ditto for the telephone line socket, or try to piggyback from using an actual intended earth pin in the socket with no actual plug attached? Or just do nothing and try to unplug my modern during thunderstorms until I get ftth ofc. You might ask the wiring thread, they know a lot more about electrical stuff. My guess is that you're supposed to loop that bit of metal around the ground pin on something that's plugged into an outlet, so that it can share the ground with whatever is plugged in. But that's only a guess, and they'd know better.
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Oct 18, 2023 16:32
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What happens if I’m half an inch short of the 8” minimum on my luxury vinyl plank? I just don’t want to take apart this whole row to shave half an inch off the end, there’s a corner cut in this one too 
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Oct 18, 2023 18:26
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8" minimum what? Length?
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Oct 18, 2023 18:38
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Anyone requiring 8" minimum is out of their mind. 5.5" is normal and is, I am told, more than is required
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Oct 18, 2023 18:48
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Anyone requiring 8" minimum is out of their mind. 5.5" is normal and is, I am told, more than is required Mhm just make sure you do the proper prep work before beginning.
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Oct 18, 2023 19:06
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Jenkl posted:Mhm just make sure you do the proper prep work before beginning. Nobody can predict where LVP will end up.
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Oct 18, 2023 20:28
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mutata posted:8" minimum what? Length? Yeah, it can be at least 8” long and/or 2” wide. In the final accounting it’s like 7-5/8”. I would have fixed it better but the contractor we hired for the plywood hosed it up pretty good so the floor is imperfect, despite my best efforts. Also, there’s no way someone could do a good job of our wonky-rear end rooms in one day. It’s taken me two just to do one of the 4 rooms and it’s hard!
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Oct 18, 2023 22:44
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You'll be fine. I've mostly ignored those recommendations and grabbed some vinyl adhesive to marry planks to each other if things got too slim or stubby.
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Oct 18, 2023 22:53
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Motronic posted:Nobody can predict where LVP will end up. One of the great mysteries of our time. tuyop posted:Yeah, it can be at least 8” long and/or 2” wide. In all seriousness, the floor doesn't just like, explode if you go shorter than 8". The shorter it is, the more likely the seams will pop. This is amplified in highly trafficked areas or those with more uneven the subfloor, or where you have greater than average temperature changes. If you really had that much trouble with it, it's probably worth just letting 'er ride. If it pops open you'll fix it then... Or probably not. I suspect it technically voids your warranty. To what degree this matters, I don't know.
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Oct 18, 2023 22:54
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Jenkl posted:One of the great mysteries of our time. Thanks, that’s really helpful! Motronic posted:Nobody can predict where LVP will end up. That’s what my dad said! And, “I don’t like a floor that’s in a different spot every time I see it”
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Oct 19, 2023 00:02
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I have a dead pedestal fan with a fuse in the plug. I think the fuse might be burned out, but it's ceramic so it's hard to tell visually and I don't own a multimeter to check. I cannot find ceramic fuses small enough to fit, but I can find glass ones. However, the internet suggests not 'downgrading' from glass to ceramic. Does anyone have enough electrical experience to explain if it would be okay to buy some glass ones to check if it's actually the fuse? Or should I just buy a multimeter and check the existing fuse myself? Online they're not much more expensive than the fuses might be, but in person they're a bit more and I wouldn't even know what type to get, really.
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Oct 19, 2023 13:22
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A multimeter is a worthwhile thing to own, even a cheap one for basic stuff, so I'd recommend that. Worst case though I'll bet if you took the fuse into a hardware store they'd be willing to check it for you
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Oct 19, 2023 13:35
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Opopanax posted:A multimeter is a worthwhile thing to own, even a cheap one for basic stuff, so I'd recommend that. Worst case though I'll bet if you took the fuse into a hardware store they'd be willing to check it for you There appear to be many different types, like non-contact ones with the lobster claw and poo poo. Are there any meaningful features to look for in a beginner's multimeter? Do they have minimum or maximum ranges or anything? I know literally nothing about them. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Mini-Multimeter/5001927061 This one looks cheap but I have no idea how to assess it otherwise.
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Oct 19, 2023 13:55
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That one would be fine, sure. If you're not using it professionally you just need something that can check basic voltages and continuity, unless you're planning on becoming an electrician or engineer or something a $20 Harbour Freight one would be fine for household use
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Oct 19, 2023 14:04
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Opopanax posted:That one would be fine, sure. If you're not using it professionally you just need something that can check basic voltages and continuity, unless you're planning on becoming an electrician or engineer or something a $20 Harbour Freight one would be fine for household use I disagree if "household use" includes mains power. It's fine for testing batteries.
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Oct 19, 2023 14:11
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For mains power I use one of those little live wire detecting pens. Also doubles as a gcfi tester on the back. Pretty much all I want to know about the power lines in my house is whether they’re safe to touch at the moment. What would the multimeter be for in this case?
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Oct 19, 2023 14:50
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I'm going to build out a small closet in my bedroom so it has a second closet for Mrs SNES user. I have about 30-33" of depth, and about ~60 width. I like the Ikea Boaxal setup to build out the inside, curious if there's a similar customizable system that any other goons like. I need a few basket drawers, long and short hanger space, and a few shoe shelves.
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Oct 19, 2023 15:03
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tuyop posted:For mains power I use one of those little live wire detecting pens. Also doubles as a gcfi tester on the back. Pretty much all I want to know about the power lines in my house is whether they’re safe to touch at the moment. What would the multimeter be for in this case? To actually post content: since the topic is on fuses, you can check if fuses still work by using the multimeter: https://youtu.be/1iHRESNMFAg?si=h6ODRnrfVcZV6RIi There may also be cases like stuff posted earlier where you might want to use a multimeter to figure out the voltage you're getting and what might appear to be a functioning receptacle that's loving up in some way. Or checking your grounding by testing a hot wire to a supposedly-grounded metal box in the wall. Or even testing household batteries to see how much juice is left in them. facialimpediment fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Oct 19, 2023 |
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Oct 19, 2023 15:09
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tuyop posted:For mains power I use one of those little live wire detecting pens. Also doubles as a gcfi tester on the back. Pretty much all I want to know about the power lines in my house is whether they’re safe to touch at the moment. What would the multimeter be for in this case? Broken/incorrectly wired outlets, floating neutral somewhere/on your service entrance and many other things can be determined or narrowed down by knowing the actual voltage at the outlet.
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Oct 19, 2023 16:08
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Oh that’s cool, I was wondering what the ten amp plug on mine was for, thanks!
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Oct 19, 2023 17:18
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Super-NintendoUser posted:I'm going to build out a small closet in my bedroom so it has a second closet for Mrs SNES user. I have about 30-33" of depth, and about ~60 width. I have Rubbermaid Configurations closet sets in two closets and I have to say, don't do what I did. The drawer tracks are held in place by a top shelf with a half cm pin on each side held in by gravity, so if you bump the shelf (say, while grabbing something out of the drawer) the tracks splay out and the drawer just drops. Easy enough to put it back together, slightly less easy to pick up all the clothes on the floor. I'd strongly recommend trying before you buy if at all possible. The Rubbermaid drawers used to be different and good (hence why we bought 2 sets) but they changed at some point.
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Oct 19, 2023 18:19
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