|
Arc Hammer posted:May main concern with painting is joints and paint chipping. Do people normally just paint the large pieces and leave the joint assemblies unpainted to avoid friction damage to the paint job? I haven't been painting gunpla very long but I use the same rule I do for military models where most of the time I'll stick a gloss coat over anything I'm masking or might get chipped while the parts are moving. It's not a bad idea to leave the part of the joint that's going to have a lot of friction unpainted either as long as it's not noticeable. For pegs and such that might have trouble going together because of the paint I either avoid painting those parts at all or use an exacto blade to scrape off the paint before putting together. Gloss coat before masking isn't 100% necessary but I've had some bad luck when I don't do it, at least with Tamiya/Vallejo, Mr. Color acrylic seems to be a pretty tough finish. Probably not necessary at all for something with a harder finish like lacquer. Marx Headroom posted:The only things I personally hesitate to airbrush are highlights and detailing, because I'm not that good. For everything else the airbrush takes a fraction of the time to get better results. Certain highlights and small parts I'm fine masking or trying to be careful with airbrushing but I usually end up having to tough up with hand painting for really small details, and for something like a plane cockpit controls I'll spray primer and then hand paint the details. I'm not great at hand painting but it usually turns out pretty good. The one thing I'm still not good at all is painting the little pilot figures that come with some kits, I usually just skip them if they're not pre painted/colored.
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 16:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 01:00 |
|
|
Synthbuttrange posted:Are pastel weathering techniques and Tamiya Weathering Master kits basically the same thing? I’m no expert (hopefully someone that is will correct me), but the Weathering Master is pigment powder in a little bit of oily/waxy base so it will adhere when you apply it like makeup. Conversely, there are pure dry powders that probably interact with various sheens of surface differently, and some recommendations I’ve seen are to mix with water or water/pva adhesive (white glue) to get your consistency/adhesion and also the potential to get some buildup for caked-on or built-up for like mud or snow or rust or whatever. You may need to topcoat or seal in both cases as they’re basically like dry flour (pigment powders) or makeup (Weathering Master). There’s probably a lot more to it, but I can be 100% certain on the Weathering Masters being in a binder to start. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Oct 26, 2023 |
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 17:00
|
|
|
Does Future floor polish still exist? That's been my go-to topcoat forever because it self levels really well, can be hand or airbrush applied, doesn't yellow, can be made flat with the right additive, and is cheap AF. I started painting models by using a rattle-can on entire runners before assembly. If I can airbrush, anyone can. Maybe one day I'll post my RX-79[G] Harlequin Paint Mule if I can find all of it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 17:46
|
|
|
Cat Hatter posted:Does Future floor polish still exist? That's been my go-to topcoat forever because it self levels really well, can be hand or airbrush applied, doesn't yellow, can be made flat with the right additive, and is cheap AF. I still have like half a bottle of Pledge floor polish with the same formula as Future from 6-7 years ago and I'm really hoping that it still exists in some form by the time I run out because it's better than any other gloss coat I've ever used.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 17:51
|
|
|
The Pledge stuff is out of production, no longer being made. Some people are scalping old bottles on amazon for around $90/bottle.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 17:54
|
|
|
Mr E posted:I still have like half a bottle of Pledge floor polish with the same formula as Future from 6-7 years ago and I'm really hoping that it still exists in some form by the time I run out because it's better than any other gloss coat I've ever used.  I only build ~1 kit a year now so mine will last until I die, but it sucks I have nothing to recommend now. Officially makes me an old man too: "In my day, we just painted models with floor polish, which was the style at the time. They don't make it anymore though. Best stuff in the world. You kids don't know what you're missing. Now let me tell you about using solvent to melt sprues to fill the gaps left in our kits from parts not lining up perfectly like they do now..."
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 18:04
|
|
|
I hand paint my kits (need space for an airbrush), and I use Mr. Leveling Thinner to thin my paints. I use around a 60/40 thimner mixture; basically trying to get a consistency like milk. If multiple coats are needed, I let it set for at least 24 hours to reduce the chances of reactivating the lower layers. Impatience has led to me stripping and redoing parts.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 18:11
|
|
|
 one more small lad done before I focus on Rex. I've got the mg blaze zaku coming from p-bandai next month so that'll be a fun comparison
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 18:12
|
|
|
Arc Hammer posted:May main concern with painting is joints and paint chipping. Do people normally just paint the large pieces and leave the joint assemblies unpainted to avoid friction damage to the paint job? I don't change poses much, if ever, so this has never been a problem. It's not for everyone though--a big selling point on gunpla is posability and the fact that you don't cement the whole thing in one pose. Marx Headroom posted:The only things I personally hesitate to airbrush are highlights and detailing, because I'm not that good. For everything else the airbrush takes a fraction of the time to get better results. I usually do fine detail like camera lenses by hand, but for other stuff you learn to love industrial quantities of masking tape. Cat Hatter posted:Does Future floor polish still exist? That's been my go-to topcoat forever because it self levels really well, can be hand or airbrush applied, doesn't yellow, can be made flat with the right additive, and is cheap AF. Haven't tried it personally, but the guy seems to know his poo poo and also is VERY responsive to comments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVA_E1vd_Yo
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 19:01
|
|
|
Fwiw I believe the magic ingredient in leveling thinners is a retarder that slows drying to allow the paint some time to remain wet and that’s what does the “leveling.” Tamiya and GSI/Creos (Mr. Hobby) both sell retarders, and I’ve heard they make a big difference for hand painting but I’ve not actually had enough experience to weigh in. As with anything, I’d match them to the particular line they’re designed for and follow directions.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 19:32
|
|
|
Mr E posted:I haven't been painting gunpla very long but I use the same rule I do for military models where most of the time I'll stick a gloss coat over anything I'm masking or might get chipped while the parts are moving. It's not a bad idea to leave the part of the joint that's going to have a lot of friction unpainted either as long as it's not noticeable. For pegs and such that might have trouble going together because of the paint I either avoid painting those parts at all or use an exacto blade to scrape off the paint before putting together. Gloss coat before masking isn't 100% necessary but I've had some bad luck when I don't do it, at least with Tamiya/Vallejo, Mr. Color acrylic seems to be a pretty tough finish. Probably not necessary at all for something with a harder finish like lacquer. Ok, to make sure I’ve got this right: if I want regions A and B to be different colors, the order would be: 1. Primer everything. 2. Put mask on B. 3. Paint A, clean up, double check mask edge. 4. Gloss coat A. 5. Remove mask from B, mask A. 6. Paint B. Is that right?
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 19:46
|
|
|
Warmachine posted:I usually do fine detail like camera lenses by hand, but for other stuff you learn to love industrial quantities of masking tape. Yknow I respect your flow but masking drove me nuts. I'd rather hand brush. But then again I paint Battletech minis so I've already got lots of practice and tools for that stuff. And I'll make exceptions for schemes with big straight lines like Steiner livery bc that's easy to mask and hard as gently caress to freestyle:  Also I had to mask all the clear bits of an RG Unicorn and it was absolutely harrowing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 19:47
|
|
|
CommunityEdition posted:Ok, to make sure I’ve got this right: if I want regions A and B to be different colors, the order would be: 4 might be skipped but depends on how strong your paint sticks
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 20:00
|
|
|
CommunityEdition posted:Ok, to make sure I’ve got this right: if I want regions A and B to be different colors, the order would be: Yeah that's what I do, tho if color B is a small area I'll just paint the A color over the whole part and then just have to mask once after clear coat - it's what I did for anything that needed masking on my EVA-01 and that worked out well. The gloss in part 4 isn't 100% necessary, I've just been burned on models enough on masking even after waiting 24-48 hours that I (almost) always gloss between masking if possible. I really think Mr. Color would be fine without for the most part but Vallejo can be very soft until clear coated IME.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 23:35
|
|
|
uwaeve posted:Fwiw I believe the magic ingredient in leveling thinners is a retarder that slows drying to allow the paint some time to remain wet and that’s what does the “leveling.” Tamiya and GSI/Creos (Mr. Hobby) both sell retarders, and I’ve heard they make a big difference for hand painting but I’ve not actually had enough experience to weigh in. As with anything, I’d match them to the particular line they’re designed for and follow directions. I use Mr Color Leveling Thinner for basically anything that's not an acrylic, the stuff is absolutely phenomenal. As far as gloss goes, I use Allclad Aqua Gloss, goes on easy, won't eat up acrylics the way a lacquer clear can, cures nice and hard, and can go over chrome without making it foggy. Sadly compared to pledge it's about a billion times more expensive by volume, but the stuff rules.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 23:36
|
|
|
Carteret posted:I love MG dearly but Bandai just refuses to make new kits in that scale I care about
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 23:44
|
|
|
Blaziken386 posted:@ bandai: please make master grade or full mechanics versions of all the of Witch From Mercury line, please and thank you Monkey's paw curls and the first new FM kit is the Michaelis.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 23:50
|
|
|
Arc Hammer posted:Monkey's paw curls and the first new FM kit is the Michaelis.  the michaelis looks cool as poo poo so i would not complain
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2023 23:56
|
|
|
I just want me bootleg Master Chief Desultor and General Grievous Bot but they ain't coming anytime soon.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 00:01
|
|
|
There better be a 1/100 Calibarn one day or I'll.. I'll.. be bummed out. Is that what you want, Bandai??
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 01:26
|
|
|
How about another Unicorn? No? Then... Strike Freedom? Oh, I know, maybe a Zeta 3.0!
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 01:41
|
|
|
Argas posted:How about another Unicorn? Please and thank you. Make the perfectibility available worldwide tyvm
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 01:50
|
|
|
Argas posted:How about another Unicorn? No? Then... Strike Freedom? Oh, I know, maybe a Zeta 3.0! Someone needs to take the Unicorn moulds away from Bandai and lock them up out of reach for a year or two. At least.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 01:57
|
|
|
Neddy Seagoon posted:Someone needs to take the Unicorn moulds away from Bandai and lock them up out of reach for a year or two. At least. That would only result in them falling back on the Exia and Astray molds. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 03:11
|
|
|
unicorn is old news, narrative gundam wears the psychoframe better.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 03:19
|
|
|
Narrative Gundam truly embraces the Zeta era sleeveless aesthetic.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 03:39
|
|
RPATDO_LAMD posted:unicorn is old news, narrative gundam wears the psychoframe better. I hate the narrative gundam, but it's basically the perfect product for them: it takes two of their really popular and iconic designs, the nu gundam and the unicorn, and then violently mashes them together. They should do it more often. Give us a bastard mix of the sazabi and sinanju to compete!
|
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 05:17
|
|
|
I often forget the NT exists because the Phenex is just a more striking and memorable design
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 05:19
|
|
|
Kitbashing question; how many of you guys do it, and what are your most ambitious projects? Kinda trying to get started with modifications for my FA Girl Zelfikar with a few MSG parts that I got my hands on, though I've been thinking of going more and more ambitious until I start going across brands and building some bulkier stuff. Also, does anyone here have any experience with the HGUC Xi Gundam? I kind of want that for my first Gundam kit (just watched Hathaway's Flash) but I've stayed away from HG Gunpla so far because they often aren't the same scale and detail as the majority of my existing kits (not to mention the price tag, which is a lot more than other HG stuff)
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 05:32
|
|
|
uwaeve posted:I’m no expert (hopefully someone that is will correct me), but the Weathering Master is pigment powder in a little bit of oily/waxy base so it will adhere when you apply it like makeup. Conversely, there are pure dry powders that probably interact with various sheens of surface differently, and some recommendations I’ve seen are to mix with water or water/pva adhesive (white glue) to get your consistency/adhesion and also the potential to get some buildup for caked-on or built-up for like mud or snow or rust or whatever. You may need to topcoat or seal in both cases as they’re basically like dry flour (pigment powders) or makeup (Weathering Master). There’s probably a lot more to it, but I can be 100% certain on the Weathering Masters being in a binder to start. Wait... an oily waxy base? I've got pigment in an oily/waxy base! Color pencils! Hang on a sec I've got to try something...    Damnb This came out nice. This was already on top of an existing weathering job but it's really easy to put on, just need a sponge/cotton bud or an eraser to move the pigment around once its down. The left leg is without the color pencil work, and the right is just fine edging work with some extra toning. It even does highlights if you have the colors, like on the main body! Rust streaks are super easy, as well as adding minor toning variations Synthbuttrange fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Oct 27, 2023 |
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 05:35
|
|
|
Iriscoral posted:Kitbashing question; how many of you guys do it, and what are your most ambitious projects? Kinda trying to get started with modifications for my FA Girl Zelfikar with a few MSG parts that I got my hands on, though I've been thinking of going more and more ambitious until I start going across brands and building some bulkier stuff. My friend, have you heard the good word of our lord 30 Minute Missions?  Or if you want something like your FA Girl; The companion line of 30 Minute Sisters.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 06:29
|
|
Waffleman_ posted:I often forget the NT exists because the Phenex is just a more striking and memorable design Doesn't the phenex predate it by a long rear end time?
|
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 07:41
|
|
|
Neddy Seagoon posted:Someone needs to take the Unicorn moulds away from Bandai and lock them up out of reach for a year or two. At least. That just forces Bandai to spend time making new Unicorn molds. Do you want that on your conscience? Changes to Japanese tax structure in recent years have master grades an even riskier investment, so it makes sense there are fewer big kits. Best to stick with the sure bets.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 07:46
|
|
|
Neddy Seagoon posted:My friend, have you heard the good word of our lord 30 Minute Missions? In general I didn't really pick up the 30MS series because most of the base kits are basically FA Girl Innocentia in terms of available plastic, and whilst worth it in terms of prices means lacking some of the more unique parts of other kit options.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 07:51
|
|
|
parabolic posted:There better be a 1/100 Calibarn one day or I'll.. I'll.. be bummed out. Is that what you want, Bandai??
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 08:09
|
|
|
Nuebot posted:Doesn't the phenex predate it by a long rear end time? Phenex got its first hg in 2013. Looks like Narrative Gundam was an original creation for the 2018 Narrative movie -- it didn't exist in the original novel the movie was based on. So yeah phenex predates it by at least 5 years, maybe up to 12 if it showed up in any of the 2006 Unicorn novels
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 08:23
|
|
|
Iriscoral posted:I've definitely heard of both 30MM/MS, just haven't really poked into them much. Though now that you said it, I'm probably going to pick up the option parts or the kits themselves for 30MM if possible, they do have some different parts options from Koto's MSG stuff. (In general I was going to look out for all options anyways, from Bandai to Koto to Eastern Model/Nuke Matrix) Yeah, the 30MM/MS designs are typically relatively-simple on purpose, so you can dress them up with accessory packs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 08:41
|
|
|
Neddy Seagoon posted:Yeah, the 30MM/MS designs are typically relatively-simple on purpose, so you can dress them up with accessory packs. Not as simple as they used to be, mind. The first two kits were "less detailed GM" and "Simpler Zaku", with almost all the distinguishing features coming in accessory packs, and you still kind of got that with the next two designs. But from then on the humans and aliens started leaning into more unique designs with accessory packs focusing on parts and weapons over just being extra armor. You've got transforming mechs, combining mechs, giant dinosaur mechs for smaller mechs to ride in, and tiny little battletechy-mechs with working cockpits. Not as individualized as Gundams, but nowhere near as generic as wave 1.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 10:09
|
|
|
https://twitter.com/G_Gunpla_Grunts/status/1717626677826658533
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 11:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 01:00 |
|
|
Found and bought PG Exia LED unit for $75 new, PG Exia for $100 new; Japan Gundam shopping complete  Anyone ship poo poo back from Japan before?
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2023 11:57
|
|
