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Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




It doesn't have to be a special grow light, but it will need more light than an average room gets (even with the window). Ideally there should be a bright light directly above the plant that's on for 12+ hours/day.

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Annath
Jan 11, 2009

Batatouille is a great and funny play on words for a video game creature and I love silly words like these
Clever Betty

Fitzy Fitz posted:

It doesn't have to be a special grow light, but it will need more light than an average room gets (even with the window). Ideally there should be a bright light directly above the plant that's on for 12+ hours/day.

Hmmm... I might be able to put it on my dresser and stick a light there...

I just worry the drat cats will mess with it. I guess I can keep my bedroom door shut, although they'll be pissed lol.

Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




You could put some sort of cage over it if that would deter the cat.

Annath
Jan 11, 2009

Batatouille is a great and funny play on words for a video game creature and I love silly words like these
Clever Betty

Fitzy Fitz posted:

You could put some sort of cage over it if that would deter the cat.

It might. Or it might not lol. I'll have to see what I have that would keep the cats out but still let light in.

freeedr
Feb 21, 2005

Annath posted:

Question, unrelated to cherry seeds:

I have a couple of chili pepper plants on my balcony. It's starting to get cooler, and 3 of them have started to die off. However, one is still going strong.

I'd like to keep it if possible, but it'd have to come inside - it gets much too cold in the winter to remain outdoors.

My question is, are indoor lights sufficient to keep it alive through the winter? Or would I need to get a proper grow light?

I have to keep the plant on a tall shelf, because I have 2 cats who have made a valiant effort in the past to kill themselves devouring pepper plant leaves. The shelf in question is not close enough to a window to be effective in that regard.

It needs a proper grow light at a proper distance for a reasonable amount of time each day. Some also worry about bugs coming in with outdoor plants but I’ve never had that problem. In spring if it’s still going strong after the last frost you should slowly reintroduce it to full sun outside progressively over a few days.

Annath
Jan 11, 2009

Batatouille is a great and funny play on words for a video game creature and I love silly words like these
Clever Betty

Fitzy Fitz posted:

It doesn't have to be a special grow light, but it will need more light than an average room gets (even with the window). Ideally there should be a bright light directly above the plant that's on for 12+ hours/day.


freeedr posted:

It needs a proper grow light at a proper distance for a reasonable amount of time each day. Some also worry about bugs coming in with outdoor plants but I’ve never had that problem. In spring if it’s still going strong after the last frost you should slowly reintroduce it to full sun outside progressively over a few days.

Y'all gotta duke it out to determine who is right.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

freeedr posted:

It needs a proper grow light at a proper distance for a reasonable amount of time each day.

As long as you recognize that "a proper grow light" is nearly any modern LED bulb as they are all full enough spectrum now. The days of specially made grow lights being required for most applications is long over. Unless you are saying this particular application requires something other than full spectrum.

Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




It depends on what you mean by proper grow light. You can buy a fluorescent shop light at Home Depot and it'll work just fine. There are lights that won't work (wrong spectrum, too weak, etc.) but those are the exception in my experience.

My favorite lights are actually labeled as "grow lights" though. GE makes some nice ones. The main reason I use those is because they have wide, directional light, and they seem better made than a lot of the random Chinese grow lights on Amazon that fail after a few months.

freeedr
Feb 21, 2005

I use an old leftover smart LED that you can set to grow light (or any other colors) wavelengths but the other LEDs I have definitely don’t work so I just think it’s the safer option to have something that tells you it’s got the right wavelengths to interact with chlorophyll. Maybe I just have lovely bulbs but my garden center also sells grow lights for $5 a bulb by their indoor plant display and they have plants growing under them on display so if I needed a new one that’s how I’d go.

Spikes32
Jul 25, 2013

Happy trees
Anyone know what this white fuzz is that's growing on my apple tree? It's sticky. We just planted it last January and before this it seemed really healthy

Schmeichy
Apr 22, 2007

2spooky4u


Smellrose

Spikes32 posted:

Anyone know what this white fuzz is that's growing on my apple tree? It's sticky. We just planted it last January and before this it seemed really healthy



Look like white fuzzy mites, they're not harmful

Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




https://treefruit.wsu.edu/crop-protection/opm/woolly-apple-aphid/

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Annath posted:

Question, unrelated to cherry seeds:

I have a couple of chili pepper plants on my balcony. It's starting to get cooler, and 3 of them have started to die off. However, one is still going strong.

I'd like to keep it if possible, but it'd have to come inside - it gets much too cold in the winter to remain outdoors.

My question is, are indoor lights sufficient to keep it alive through the winter? Or would I need to get a proper grow light?

I have to keep the plant on a tall shelf, because I have 2 cats who have made a valiant effort in the past to kill themselves devouring pepper plant leaves. The shelf in question is not close enough to a window to be effective in that regard.
I kept a small Thai pepper (no more that 18 inches high) through a Massachusetts winter back when that meant something. However, it was next to the window. You can now buy clip-on grow lights that clip to the pot, so that isn't an enormous hassle.

adeadcrab
Feb 1, 2006

Objectifying women is cool and normal
Caught a massive bad boy of a slug last night. Beer trap is in full effect. Stay away from my tender avocado leaves!!

Senor Tron
May 26, 2006


Alucard posted:

When are we going to get around to the abomination of nature that is fruit tree grafting? That poo poo is really messed up, making literal frankenberry's monsters.

I really want to give grafting a try with apple and stone fruit next year. Need to find some people with trees I'd like to take branches from.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Grafting is so weird that Shakespeare compared it to politics.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


I'm air layering a fig tree right now.

Just casually forcing an appendage to turn into a clone body then lopping it off to give to a friend, standard stuff.

Alucard
Mar 11, 2002
Pillbug

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Senor Tron posted:

I really want to give grafting a try with apple and stone fruit next year. Need to find some people with trees I'd like to take branches from.

If you're near Monterey, the California Rare Fruit Growers have a scion exchange in January.


e: Ooooh. Fedco Seeds in Maine will sell you scions by mail, in quite a nifty set of uncommon varieties.

Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Oct 27, 2023

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Screen Shot

Recently discovered seedling with fermented cider potential. Horrible-tasting fruit guaranteed to liven up even the most mundane pressing. A true spitter. Dense and spongy but remarkably juicy. Low in acid, with some astringency and a touch of bitterness, probably best categorized as a bittersharp. Recommended for trial by the truly adventurous and courageous cidermaker. Not for the faint of heart. We have several grafted here on the farm.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


I genuinely laughed out loud.

freeedr
Feb 21, 2005

Hard freezes coming. Harvest time for me tomorrow.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Hello again gardeneers, I'd like some advice on raised beds.

My original plan for the garden was this (click for big):



The dimensions of the raised beds I put in were mostly chosen by the way it looked on the plan, and now I'm coming near time to actually build them, I'm wondering if I've overdone it. *After* a grand in wood purchased, of course.

The drawing calls for 5m of shaded beds and like 20m of sunny beds. I don't even really know what I'd plant in them. I guess some leafy veg like spinach, some fruits, and herbs / bulbs (like garlic?).

Would 2m and 10m be enough? Do I even need shaded beds?

For sunlight reference, this is what the garden currently looks like at 3pm:

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Oct 27, 2023

mischief
Jun 3, 2003

Gardening: Hello again gardeneers, I'm wondering if I've overdone it.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Jaded Burnout posted:

Hello again gardeneers, I'd like some advice on raised beds.

My original plan for the garden was this (click for big):



The dimensions of the raised beds I put in were mostly chosen by the way it looked on the plan, and now I'm coming near time to actually build them, I'm wondering if I've overdone it. *After* a grand in wood purchased, of course.

The drawing calls for 5m of shaded beds and like 20m of sunny beds. I don't even really know what I'd plant in them. I guess some leafy veg like spinach, some fruits, and herbs / bulbs (like garlic?).

Would 2m and 10m be enough? Do I even need shaded beds?

For sunlight reference, this is what the garden currently looks like at 3pm:



Is that hand drawn or computer aided? It's beautiful.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Hello again gardeneers, I'd like some advice on raised beds.

My original plan for the garden was this (click for big):



The dimensions of the raised beds I put in were mostly chosen by the way it looked on the plan, and now I'm coming near time to actually build them, I'm wondering if I've overdone it. *After* a grand in wood purchased, of course.

The drawing calls for 5m of shaded beds and like 20m of sunny beds. I don't even really know what I'd plant in them. I guess some leafy veg like spinach, some fruits, and herbs / bulbs (like garlic?).

Would 2m and 10m be enough? Do I even need shaded beds?

For sunlight reference, this is what the garden currently looks like at 3pm:


How much garden is enough garden (or too much garden) is the eternal question. You can grow alot of stuff in 2m x 10m. Most vegetables and things probably want as much sun as possible in your climate, but there's plenty of fun and pretty stuff to grow in the shade too. Do you need shaded beds? Not unless you want to grow plants that need shade, or you want to fill that area with a bed.

Your plan shows 1m deep beds but you mentioned 2m deep- I would stick with 1 m deep. 2m and you would need a path or something down the middle, whereas 1m you can reach all the way across without stepping in the bed.

Most fruits are perennial shrubs or small trees so you may want them in a more permanent location like maybe behind the shed. Some fruit trees espaliered against the fence could look nice too, and might be a good way to break up that long stretch of beds. Maybe spread out 3 trees along that sunny fence that go directly in the ground with raised beds between? One in the middle opposite the 'New Tree' on your plan and then one capping each end of the run?

It's also easy to start small with raised beds and add on later.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


StormDrain posted:

Is that hand drawn or computer aided? It's beautiful.

:) Just pen and paper and my debatable handwriting.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Do you need shaded beds? Not unless you want to grow plants that need shade, or you want to fill that area with a bed.

Are any of the things I mentioned in that category? I'm a growing-things newbie.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Your plan shows 1m deep beds but you mentioned 2m deep- I would stick with 1 m deep. 2m and you would need a path or something down the middle, whereas 1m you can reach all the way across without stepping in the bed.

Sorry for the confusion, I meant 2m of shade and 10m of sun, same depth as the drawing.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Most fruits are perennial shrubs or small trees so you may want them in a more permanent location like maybe behind the shed. Some fruit trees espaliered against the fence could look nice too, and might be a good way to break up that long stretch of beds. Maybe spread out 3 trees along that sunny fence that go directly in the ground with raised beds between? One in the middle opposite the 'New Tree' on your plan and then one capping each end of the run?

It's also easy to start small with raised beds and add on later.

Not bad ideas. The only snag is that the plan with the guys doing the paths (which will now be brick-paved rather than aggregate) intend to use the beds along that side as the edging for the path. I suppose there must be another way.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Jaded Burnout posted:

Would 2m and 10m be enough? Do I even need shaded beds?

For sunlight reference, this is what the garden currently looks like at 3pm:


I remember that you're in the UK, right?
Here are the definitions of sun, as gardeners see them. Full sun - more than 6 hours of direct sun per day. Part sun (nearly the same as part shade) - 4 to 6 hours of direct sun per day. HOWEVER, tomatoes and peppers ideally get 8 hours, at least.

When I look at your garden and add up the shade from the house, the shade from the workshop, and the shade from the tree when mature, I think much of the property would be part-sun. A lot depends on which way your lot is facing. Summerwinds Nursery has a really solid writeup on how to determine sun exposure in your yard.

There are a lot of cool and beautiful plants that can only grow in part shade or full shade. Fuchsias, ferns, many wildflowers, English bluebells. Furthermore, in the full shade areas of your garden, grass may be unhappy.

tl;dr: Figure out the sunlight exposure of the various areas of your garden. Decide if you're happy restricting ornamental plants to only the area that is full-sun. If not, put up raised beds in the part-sun and full-sun areas, and plant accordingly.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Arsenic Lupin posted:

I remember that you're in the UK, right?
Here are the definitions of sun, as gardeners see them. Full sun - more than 6 hours of direct sun per day. Part sun (nearly the same as part shade) - 4 to 6 hours of direct sun per day. HOWEVER, tomatoes and peppers ideally get 8 hours, at least.

When I look at your garden and add up the shade from the house, the shade from the workshop, and the shade from the tree when mature, I think much of the property would be part-sun. A lot depends on which way your lot is facing. Summerwinds Nursery has a really solid writeup on how to determine sun exposure in your yard.

There are a lot of cool and beautiful plants that can only grow in part shade or full shade. Fuchsias, ferns, many wildflowers, English bluebells. Furthermore, in the full shade areas of your garden, grass may be unhappy.

tl;dr: Figure out the sunlight exposure of the various areas of your garden. Decide if you're happy restricting ornamental plants to only the area that is full-sun. If not, put up raised beds in the part-sun and full-sun areas, and plant accordingly.

Yeah I meant to mention the directions. That photo (and the long-axis of the garden) faces north-west. The right hand fence (where the "sunny" beds would go) gets sweeping direct sun from mid-morning til a couple hours before sundown. The left hand fence casts shadow pretty much 24/7, though the grass that's growing along that side is actually the thickest and healthiest in the entire garden, possibly because it's had the freshest soil dumped there recently.

So I reckon a good length of the "sun" beds would get full sun from spring to early autumn, and everything else would be basically full shade.

Edit:

To give an idea of the tenacity of this grass, this is the same garden 18 months ago. I did nothing to regrow it, no seed or fertiliser, just left it.


Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Oct 27, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Yeah I meant to mention the directions. That photo (and the long-axis of the garden) faces north-west. The right hand fence (where the "sunny" beds would go) gets sweeping direct sun from mid-morning til a couple hours before sundown. The left hand fence casts shadow pretty much 24/7, though the grass that's growing along that side is actually the thickest and healthiest in the entire garden, possibly because it's had the freshest soil dumped there recently.

So I reckon a good length of the "sun" beds would get full sun from spring to early autumn, and everything else would be basically full shade.
What is 'sun' and what is 'shade' is also a bit confusing. It's really more about how much light it gets. Something can be in a shadow like the stuff on your left hand fence is in shadow all day, but it still looks pretty bright like it is receives plenty of ambient light. Tomatoes might not be super productive there, but plenty of 'full sun' stuff would be very happy. I'd imagine in summer the fence's shadow gets quite a bit shorter too. Compare that with under a dense forest canopy where most of the sunlight is blocked in the treetops and there is very little ambient light on the ground. That's what 'full shade' means. Alot of plants that like full sun also like being protected from the south as it puts less water stress on them during the heat of the day, which may be why your grass is so happy there.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


OK, makes sense, thanks :)

When I fill them, how well do I need to bother filtering Garden Detritus out of the soil? Can I leave grass on it from digging out the paths? Pebbles? Once it's in can I just chuck some garden fabric on top and leave it for a year?

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Jaded Burnout posted:

Yeah I meant to mention the directions. That photo (and the long-axis of the garden) faces north-west. The right hand fence (where the "sunny" beds would go) gets sweeping direct sun from mid-morning til a couple hours before sundown. The left hand fence casts shadow pretty much 24/7, though the grass that's growing along that side is actually the thickest and healthiest in the entire garden, possibly because it's had the freshest soil dumped there recently.

So I reckon a good length of the "sun" beds would get full sun from spring to early autumn, and everything else would be basically full shade.
Makes sense. I would pull up a nursery website (I don't know what the good ones are in the UK), look at the full-shade and some part-shade plants, and decide if you like any of them enough that you'd enjoy looking at them.

Hooray for sturdy grasses.

e: Anything you leave in the dirt has a good chance of sprouting the next year. Weed out the grass clumps IMHO.

Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Oct 27, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

OK, makes sense, thanks :)

When I fill them, how well do I need to bother filtering Garden Detritus out of the soil? Can I leave grass on it from digging out the paths? Pebbles? Once it's in can I just chuck some garden fabric on top and leave it for a year?
I'm very lazy so I personally wouldn't bother screening anything out. Garden fabric is a nightmare and not nearly as effective as people think and it makes beds a tremendous pain to plant anything in. You'll be much better off in the short and long term with a good thick layer of mulch-straw, bark, leaves, etc. are all fine. Put a layer of cardboard under it if you really want no weeds. Weeds are kind of a part of life though so you may as well get used to them early.

Arsenic Lupin posted:

e: Anything you leave in the dirt has a good chance of sprouting the next year. Weed out the grass clumps IMHO.

Or do the lazy thing and put them in the beds, wait till they sprout in spring and then blast them with herbicide.

Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



I have sheets of fake grass I put on beds I'm not using and it stops most of the weeds, while water goes through it. It has enough weight that stakes or rocks aren't needed. Roll away partially as needed or store the whole thing in the shed. Can look superficially ok, never great admittedly.

My ambitions to grow things vary wildly over the years.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


OK, well I have both the fabric and black corex laying around as leftovers so I'll use one or the other when not planting in them. I'll shake out the grass.

Thanks all. Gardeneers... away!

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.
I love a good garden plan. What's your plan for water? Rain barrels? Any plan to automate with drip lines? Work it into the plan now!

The thing about being able to add beds later is true. BUT I love a good, thorough space-consuming plan too. And even in years you can't use the whole space, you can always just chuck a bunch of marigolds in a bed and it'll look great. Or let squash/pumpkins overrun an area with minimal intervention.

freeedr
Feb 21, 2005

You can indeed always add beds. I have one special raised bed far, far away from everything else.

This is where mint is quarantined.

rojay
Sep 2, 2000

freeedr posted:

This is where I think the mint is quarantined.

Fixed.

Feliday Melody
May 8, 2021





My dehydrator arrived, and I am very happy with it.

Turned 1000 grams of apples into 133 grams of apple slices.

Next time, I'm going to slice them into apple crescents so that I can fit more on each tray.

What I wanted out of a dehydrator was to fit one bucket of cleaned and de-cored apples (about 3000 grams) and for the trays to be dishwasher proof and this seems to be able to do both.

Feliday Melody fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Oct 28, 2023

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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Chad Sexington posted:

I love a good garden plan. What's your plan for water? Rain barrels?

1. England
2. Yeah water butts, one on the house and one on the workshop

Chad Sexington posted:

Any plan to automate with drip lines?

Probably! Everything else will be. There'll be space to run the water from the workshop butt without blocking a pipe.

freeedr posted:

I have one special raised bed far, far away from everything else.

Me too, all the way over upstairs in the house.

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