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8-bit Miniboss
May 24, 2005

CORPO COPS CAME FOR MY :filez:

Synthbuttrange posted:

What's in the Sovol SV06 equivalent range?

Maybe something from Anycubic. Like the Kobra or Vyper maybe. They seem fine though I think both them don’t have all-metal hotends like the Sovol.

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deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
I think Sovol is the one to get at that price range unless your budget is a hard $200.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m





christmas season is pretty whack. hired a buddy to help me pack boxes, need to be shipping 15-20/day right now

queeb fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Nov 17, 2023

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
Neptune 3 Pro is another ~$200 printer to consider.

Failson
Sep 2, 2018
Fun Shoe
What's the current recommendation on SLA printers? Anycubics looking cheap again.

Are they foolproof yet? (it is me. I am the fool).

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

anycubics have been foolproof for a while. i've had my photon mono for like 3 years now and i think i've had three or four print failures ever.

resin printers only have one moving part, so once you get the settings dialed in, they tend to just work.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Yeah mono x2s are my work horses right now, love that printer for the price, I have 7 going full bore right now

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Resin printers is more about dialing in the exposure timing, learning to maintain your print film, and not poisoning yourself by using nitrile gloves, respirators and goggles and having a ventilated workspace. I've been using my Photon S for 4 years now. The only major problems I have are the current firmware botching the first print ( so I made an empty cancelable print to run whenever its turned on for the first time), and whenever I use the Tough Anycubic resin which sticks like hell to my FEP sheet unless I wipe it down with ptfe first.

And occasionally accidentally splashing myself with resin and or cleaning alcohol.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


P1s with ams combo is now 849 , p1s.by itself 599

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


Failson posted:

What's the current recommendation on SLA printers? Anycubics looking cheap again.

Are they foolproof yet? (it is me. I am the fool).

None of them are fool proof yet. As evidenced by my third attempt to print these goddamn mausoleum doors.

But they're getting better.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

queeb posted:



christmas season is pretty whack. hired a buddy to help me pack boxes, need to be shipping 15-20/day right now

Same friend, same



This is one weeks batch, just from my printers, my brother has a similar sized lot to drop off today. This isn't even a quarter of our orders. My X1C can't get here fast enough lol

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Can handheld device grips like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5746813 generally be printed in TPU?

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Tiny Timbs posted:

Can handheld device grips like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5746813 generally be printed in TPU?

I don't see why not.

Failson
Sep 2, 2018
Fun Shoe
Thanks all. Mono x2 sounds like the way to go.

I think I'll buy the in-box air filters, but it doesn't seem like the wash and cure stations are worth the money? Due to small size, if nothing else.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Bambu Labs just discounted their printers, best I've seen.

How much of a compromise is the p1p over the x1c?

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Failson posted:

Thanks all. Mono x2 sounds like the way to go.

I think I'll buy the in-box air filters, but it doesn't seem like the wash and cure stations are worth the money? Due to small size, if nothing else.

Lots of people swear by the wash and cure stations. I kinda slapped mine together with leftovers and a few purchased parts. My "curing station" is a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot, a solar powered jewelry rotation display, and some UV LEDs off Amazon.

If I had to make one solid recommendation though it would be to get external ventilation instead of in-box filters. If you go to significant lengths you can probably get the resin smell mostly gone with an in-box filter depending on specifics of chemistry, but it turns out our biology is not tuned for things like ultraviolet-cured long chain resin polymers and/or the volatile organic compounds it may produce. The smell alone is not a guarantee you're not getting the spicy air elsewhere. I made a box of scavenged (read; free) 2x4s and foil-backed foam from a construction project, bought some dryer hose at Home Depot again, got an in-line fan off Amazon, and vent it all out a window with an adapter. The area inside the box is negative pressure while in operation and it all goes out the window.

Other than opening/closing things when I turn it on or off, I know for certain nothing is getting in to the house during operation. There is no way to accomplish that with certainty via in-box filtration and re-circulated air.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


NomNomNom posted:

Bambu Labs just discounted their printers, best I've seen.

How much of a compromise is the p1p over the x1c?

P1S over X1c?

IMO it's not worth it:
You lose: Big touch screen, Lidar (may or may not be useful) and better camera/video. Ability to pull SD card contents via bambu software.
You gain: ~400USD

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

NomNomNom posted:

Bambu Labs just discounted their printers, best I've seen.

How much of a compromise is the p1p over the x1c?

The P1 series camera is kind of poo poo, like 0.5 FPS, but it's still plenty good enough to monitor prints and it'll do time lapses. P1's also don't have the fancy touch screen, or LIDAR (which also does spaghetti detection), and the max bed heat is 10 degrees cooler than the X1 although I don't recall what either's upper limit is.

Last firmware update gave us plebians the Skip Object function that used to be exclusive to the X1.

I have two P1Ps and a P1S, and this is 100% my personal view, but I can't say that I feel as though I'm missing out on any of the X1 features. I thoroughly enjoy using all three machines and it's rare that I don't have at least one of them running at any given time.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
Life got ahead of me so I never finished RMAing my Flashforge Adventurer 4

... So I bought an entirely brand new magnetic heat bed plate assembly from them directly to see if that will help my bed leveling issues. Otherwise some tape and shims will do the rest

With the money I've spent across this one printer I probably should have just bought a Bambu, smh my head

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

NomNomNom posted:

Bambu Labs just discounted their printers, best I've seen.

How much of a compromise is the p1p over the x1c?

IMO if you need one 3D printer, get the X1C. If you need more than one, get P1S units.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

I have all three Bambu printers burning through Fab365's new Star Destroyer that they released this morning. The print time estimates on their web site put the whole thing at ~130 hours... but pretty sure I'm looking at having a complete model by tomorrow afternoon. This does not suck one bit.

https://fab365.net/items/505

It's a free download if you have 'tickets' from them, which you earn by buying any of their other paid models. I've never regretted buying any of their stuff, it's all pretty much loving brilliant. I wish I had the kind of brain that designs this stuff.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I did the foldable millennium falcon for a coworkers husband, he's got it on his computer. 1/2 done with a Sovol Sv06 and 1/2 done with a bambu.. (you can tell which is which)

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012



it drives me fuckin nuts that they call it this because their system is 10000% not a LIDAR. Not even a little. LIDAR uses laser light and interferometry to directly measure the distance to a target, like if you wanna find out how far away the moon is to a fraction of an inch. The Bambu system does not do that -- it uses a calibrated digital camera to look at the width of the traces going down and adjust the nozzle until they're squished the right amount. This is quite a cool idea in itself, and it's significantly more accurate than any actual LIDAR could be at the range we're talking about, so I don't understand why they call it LIDAR! Words mean things!!!! :argh:

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Acid Reflux posted:

I have all three Bambu printers burning through Fab365's new Star Destroyer that they released this morning. The print time estimates on their web site put the whole thing at ~130 hours... but pretty sure I'm looking at having a complete model by tomorrow afternoon. This does not suck one bit.

https://fab365.net/items/505

It's a free download if you have 'tickets' from them, which you earn by buying any of their other paid models. I've never regretted buying any of their stuff, it's all pretty much loving brilliant. I wish I had the kind of brain that designs this stuff.

You get a free ticket by signing up. (which I just did)

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

ImplicitAssembler posted:

You get a free ticket by signing up. (which I just did)

Ooh, nice! I've been buying them for so long that I didn't even know (or remember, maybe ) that was a thing. In any case, it's an outfit that I've never regretted throwing money at. I've printed more of their X-Wing fighters for friends than the Rebellion ever plausibly had in service. I could have taken the 3D-printed Empire down all by myself LOL

Whenever they release the stand for the Star Destroyer, it'll cost a few bucks, but it'll also earn you another ticket. It's a pretty good system they have going - they don't charge cash for models based on existing intellectual property, and their commercial printing license (though Patreon) also doesn't allow sales of such. Otherwise any original material, including display stands for [whatever], is fair game and will also earn you more tickets for buying stuff. I really like how they do business.

Opioid
Jul 3, 2008

<3 Blood Type ARRRRR
Every time I see someone who has painted an FDM model of a ship or something it always looks like hot garbage.

Is there any tricks to printing something like this star destroyer and finishing it in a way that looks good?
I’m assuming lots of filler and sanding for the joint lines

Cheap Shot
Aug 15, 2006

Help BIP learn gun?


I’m looking to get my first 3D printer and Black Friday seems likely the best time. I suffer from hyperacusis though, and read about DLP resin printers which claim to be very quiet in operation (and also longer lasting?). Does DLP make sense for me if I’m sensitive to loud sound and high pitched whines? And if so, what printer should I be aiming for? DLP seems to be a lot more expensive than regular resin printers but I worry I wont be able to exist in the same house while a regular one is running for hours.
Plan to mostly print things at the scale of minis or figurines. Anything bigger I don't mind doing in multiple pieces and assembling.

The anycubic D2 looks like it might be the way to go? But I really don’t know what else is available aside from the elegoo Mars 4? I read something about those two companies locking you into using specific slicing software? Welcoming recommendations.

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

I don't think there's going to be any notable difference in noise between a DLP and normal resin printer, you do have the longevity thing, but if you're printing enough to wear out one of the LCD screens, it might be cheaper to replace it once over going for a more expensive printer.
Sound will probably vary more unit per unit based on how loud the psu fan is, amongst others. I'd probably suggest going for something cheaper to see if you like it, instead of jumping right on a more expensive DLP printer, a LCD one will be able to print hundreds of prints before you'd need to consider swapping the screen.
(Honestly, I think it might be more likely that you have to swap it because you accidentally damage it, than burn it out.)

Resin printers in general are fairly quiet, some fan whirring and a low, slow vrrnn sound as the motor operates. (Plus a faint 'pop' when it lifts the print up.). DLP vs LCD is just the light source, the PSU and motor lifting the bed are the things that make noise.
When I put my Mars 3 Pro inside a normal ikea platsa closet without any additional soundproofing, it brought the noise level down to 'can hear a faint *pop*, *vrrn*' when standing close to it and listening intently.

Cheap Shot posted:

The anycubic D2 looks like it might be the way to go? But I really don’t know what else is available aside from the elegoo Mars 4? I read something about those two companies locking you into using specific slicing software? Welcoming recommendations.

It was a thing, but they opened up after consumer pushback, so most slicers will be able to print with most consumer printers. Lycheeslicer is a common rec there, free to use, subscribe to unlock extra features.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


That O2-permeable reservoir tech that allowed some cool advancement in resin printing, did that ever percolate down to the consumer market?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Any must have accessories for a p1s plus ams that I should buy straight off?

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

NomNomNom posted:

Any must have accessories for a p1s plus ams that I should buy straight off?

Maybe a spare build plate, but otherwise I think it's good to go without any extra tinkering

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Opioid posted:

I’m assuming lots of filler and sanding for the joint lines
This is pretty much it. If you want something to look fully smooth and finished, there's a lot of work that needs to be done.

This Fab365 stuff is all basically just fun toys to put together and throw on a shelf or something, not meant to be showroom-quality models.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


fuuuuuck i guess i'm getting an X1C

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Bad Munki posted:

That O2-permeable reservoir tech that allowed some cool advancement in resin printing, did that ever percolate down to the consumer market?

No, it's patented. The company will rent you one of their printers for like $40,000 a year. Check back in 17 years

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Deviant posted:

fuuuuuck i guess i'm getting an X1C

Yessssssssssssssss

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug
con: I have to buy new rollers from the local store
pro: ...the local store is selling high flow CHT nozzles for $5 a pop? IDK if that's a pricing error or what but sold

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


NomNomNom posted:

Any must have accessories for a p1s plus ams that I should buy straight off?

hardened nozzle/hotend and extruder if you plan on printing abrasives.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer
Any good black Friday deals for printers in the sub 400 price range?

I know about the bambu sale but that's out of my range. I did see a creality ender 5 s1 that's a speedy printer for 335 on Amazon. There's a creality k1 for 419 on Amazon as well.

Just wondering what a good quick plug and play printer would be.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

Anyone wanna give "modeling for 3d printers" technique advice to an idiot? I started this project case both because I want the case and it'd be a good stepping stool to other stuff. I knew overhangs would be an issue but I wanted to get the basic idea down so I have something to iterate on. I pooped out this:





Obviously the slicer hates it and wants to enter a ton of supports no matter which way I orient the model. So what's the better approach? Remove the spacers and print with the big side down? Embrace the supports? Print as two parts and stick them together? Something else entirely?

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The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
I think I'd go with printing the spacers separately; you can make a little indent to seat them in but don't have to worry about them coming loose, since they'll be held in place by the compression of the screws

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