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Not Wolverine
Jul 1, 2007

IOwnCalculus posted:

Nah it's cool just put this in your mouth
Yeah, it was a pretty hosed up experience which I am trying to forget about. It was my tap water, from my sink, into my glass. He couldn't have slipped anything into, my room always spins after drinking a glass of tap water.

To be fair, I thought it was mostly parlor tricks but possibly a tiny bit of real science, now it seems obvious it was all lies. But I still think there could be some benefits to legitimate water softeners.

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Shower before and after getting in the pool - literally wet down your hair, then when you get out do the same. Rinse your hair out and your entire body with water. No soap needed. You will feel better after swimming.

Also you fell hook line and sinker for the shyster you let in your door. Good job not paying them.

With a water softener you can actually use the "one pump of body wash" you see in the commercials, and if you lather your body straight from the bar you're gonna have a bad time.

If hardness is causing problems with scale then sure, soften it a bit, but do it from a plumber who can talk maintenance and how to know if it's working well. Not from someone going door to door. Your local consumer confidence report should help you. Or ask some neighbors who have a basic system like Motronic linked how they like it, what changes they had to make (re: soap/slimy feeling) and how much they pay. You can get salt (either sodium or potassium salts) at Costco.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
A loofah or washcloth will make a lather from bar soap more readily in softened water and will feel soapy longer IME

If the slimy feeling thing happens decrease the softening amount and save your resin life.

Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Nov 21, 2023

Not Wolverine
Jul 1, 2007

H110Hawk posted:

Shower before and after getting in the pool - literally wet down your hair, then when you get out do the same. Rinse your hair out and your entire body with water. No soap needed. You will feel better after swimming.

Also you fell hook line and sinker for the shyster you let in your door. Good job not paying them.

With a water softener you can actually use the "one pump of body wash" you see in the commercials, and if you lather your body straight from the bar you're gonna have a bad time.

If hardness is causing problems with scale then sure, soften it a bit, but do it from a plumber who can talk maintenance and how to know if it's working well. Not from someone going door to door. Your local consumer confidence report should help you. Or ask some neighbors who have a basic system like Motronic linked how they like it, what changes they had to make (re: soap/slimy feeling) and how much they pay. You can get salt (either sodium or potassium salts) at Costco.
Thanks! To be honest, the reason I let them in is because they said they were from Home Depot, where I ordered (and cancelled) a dishwasher, and they said they had to do a water test, 30min max. The con artist didn't reveal themselves until 30min before the test when they said they were another company (Home Depot can contract out an water test, right?). I told all of this to Home Depot customer support and they didn't give a gently caress at all, thus I bought and installed a dishwasher from Lowes.

Thanks for your tips, I didn't know you could adjust the level of softening on a water softener. I will look around and try to find a supply house and/or legitimate plumber if I go with a water softener. I think the biggest thing is I should wait and see if the city's new treatment plant makes the water any better or not, so I've at least got time to save up for a system if I go that route.

Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Nov 21, 2023

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Not Wolverine posted:

So I'm starting to think the scam was really elaborate. At first, I assumed the science might be true just a ridiculously priced product.

The first demonstration was washing my hands using a bar of soap, and rinsing one hand with soft water and t.other with hard water, allegedly my skin felt softer because hard water minerals were clogging my pores and preventing my skins natural oils from doing their job. The truth looks more like the soft water was not rinsing off all of the soap.

Salesman also claimed store bought soaps include softening agents to help the soap work better, but the chemist in the thread basically said the exact opposite. This explains why I would need to buy custom soaps with my water softener, they are "concentrated" and thus need to be watered down like 10:1 before use (yeah I'm too lazy for that). More likely they probably just want it watered down so that I would use less soap.

The next demonstration involves shoving a corner of one of my clean towels into a flask of water. I can't remember the full magic trick but I think the hard water bottle made a lot of bubbles and changed color because my hard water can't rinse all of the soap out of my towel, but I think the logic there is the opposite of what the chemist said.

Next, I was asked to hold a small amount of water in my mouth to show chlorine absorbing into my body. After holding it for about 30 seconds, a chemical was added which would make chlorine cloudy, original tap water turned cloudy but the water I had in my mouth was not cloudy, allegedly because my body absorbed all the chlorine. I'm not sure how this trick works but I don't believe it was a demonstration of my body actually absorbing chlorine.

Pulling a rabbit out of tap was a genuine magic trick to try to con me into signing the paperwork that very night without googling the price of water softeners.

I'm not certain I need or want a water softener now. I definitely would like to find a way to cut down on all the scale on my sinks, appliances and dishes, and I think a water softener might help with that. I also want my hands to be less dry, I wash my hands A LOT (dog slober + kids constantly asking for snack after snack + snacks for myself etc) and have very dry skin, but I'm not sure a $2000 water softener system is the right solution for my dry hands. Similarly, in the summer I like to swim a lot, and my HOA pool uses salt, and I think my skin feels dry afterwards, is this how my skin will feel after a water softener? I showed after swimming, but often I think my skin feels even more dry after showering.

don’t f w/ soap salesmen unless they can recite Dr. Bronner’s moral ABC

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

kreeningsons posted:

don’t f w/ soap salesmen unless they can recite Dr. Bronner’s moral ABC

quote:

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NO DETERGENTS

NO FOAMING AGENTS

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100% BIODEGRADABLE!

DILUTE! DILUTE! OK!

DR. BRONNER’S IS CERTIFIED

Contains at least 70% Fair for Life Fair Trade certified ingredients

Dilute: Enjoy 1 soap for 18 uses! Shave-Shampoo-Shower-Bath-Mop-Launder-Degrease! Dr. Bronner’s Pure-Castile is the very best soap for body, home and Spaceship Earth! Synthetic preservatives? Detergents? Foaming agents? NONE! Health is our greatest wealth! Enjoy body rub to stimulate body-mind-soul-spirit and teach the Essene Moral ABC uniting all free in the shepherd-astronomer Israel’s greatest All-One-God-Faith!

“The 2nd Coming of God’s Law!” Mohammed’s Arabs, 1948, found Israel Essene Scrolls & Einstein’s “Hillel” probe that as no 6-year-old can grow up free without the ABC, so certain can no 12-year-old survive free without the Moral ABC that mason, tent & sandalmaker Rabbi Hillel taught carpenter Jesus to unite all mankind free in our Eternal Father’s great All-One-God-Faith! For we’re All-One or None: “Listen Children Eternal Father Eternally One!”

Absolute cleanliness is Godliness! Teach the Moral ABC that unites all mankind free, instantly 6 billion strong & we’re All-One. “Listen Children Eternal Father Eternally One!”

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Not Wolverine posted:

I think the biggest thing is I should wait and see if the city's new treatment plant makes the water any better or not, so I've at least got time to save up for a system if I go that route.

I don't know what they are installing but I imagine it's not going to gently caress with the hardness / minerality, they're doing like coarse filtration, chlorination, and government mind control serum aka fluoridation. You can probably look at the plans.

Either way, that scam artist worked - they have told you a solution to a problem you didn't have bev they walked in the door.

Grumpwagon
May 6, 2007
I am a giant assfuck who needs to harden the fuck up.

My garage is old, detached and drafty. Mostly that's a problem for another day, but chipmunks and such get in and poop on my workbench, and I'd like to start using it. I've patched the gaps where the wall meets the slab, and that helped for a while, but now I'm noticing they're digging in where the slab is cracked.

Would something like this be the right product to patch long cracks where frost/water has heaved the slab enough to make it crack? I don't care about leveling the whole thing or anything like that, just sealing it enough to keep vermin out. I'm in Wisconsin, so we get plenty of freezing, and as I said, the garage is unheated.

Not Wolverine
Jul 1, 2007

H110Hawk posted:

I don't know what they are installing but I imagine it's not going to gently caress with the hardness / minerality, they're doing like coarse filtration, chlorination, and government mind control serum aka fluoridation. You can probably look at the plans.

Either way, that scam artist worked - they have told you a solution to a problem you didn't have bev they walked in the door.
My city is abandoning the current 80 year old water treatment plant and building an entirely new facility so I think the water quality might possibly change. Granted, the water is all within spec now so maybe it will be exactly the same, but I still think it would be a good idea for me to wait and see what the water is like.

On the other hand, the mayor told his golf buddies he was going to be very nice to them for a very long time before he awarded them the bid, so maybe the new water plant is yet another scam. I know the old facility did not have any available land nearby to expand. :iiam:

Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Nov 21, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Chipmunks will climb up siding/come down from trees to get in also. I'm not sure patching concrete cracks is what you' need to do, and I'm not really even able to visualize how that would help. Closing off holes in buildings is best done with hardware cloth.

Grumpwagon
May 6, 2007
I am a giant assfuck who needs to harden the fuck up.

Motronic posted:

Chipmunks will climb up siding/come down from trees to get in also. I'm not sure patching concrete cracks is what you' need to do, and I'm not really even able to visualize how that would help. Closing off holes in buildings is best done with hardware cloth.

Yeah, I was surprised too, but there is a clear hole, with dirt evidence, showing they've burrowed from the outside to get there. I've found both sides of it and seen chipmunks run through it. I've patched every other route that I could find first, this hole didn't appear until after that.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you

Grumpwagon posted:

My garage is old, detached and drafty. Mostly that's a problem for another day, but chipmunks and such get in and poop on my workbench, and I'd like to start using it.

Check with the plumbing thread first. Human feces are going to be so much more work to clean up compared to a chipmunk's

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Grumpwagon posted:

Yeah, I was surprised too, but there is a clear hole, with dirt evidence, showing they've burrowed from the outside to get there. I've found both sides of it and seen chipmunks run through it. I've patched every other route that I could find first, this hole didn't appear until after that.

If they're digging under is this a spot where you can bend some hardware cloth into an L and bury the one side outside the structure (just under an inch or so of dirt) and attach the other side to the structure? Most burrowing/digging animals get super confused and can't figure out to back up and start digging further away.

SuicidalSmurf
Feb 12, 2002


I just tiled my kitchen with subway tile. I feel like I'm overthinking the poo poo out of the gap at the top, but I'm ready for grout and don't want to make some unrecoverable error. My tile is straight, the kitchen ceiling varies in height, leaving a 3/4" gap at the worst, and 1/4" at the narrowest. I know color match silicone is a thing, but this seems like too big a gap to fill with that? What's typical here? If I do nothing, do I need to mask off the top of the tile before grouting?



PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Cove molding. Prime, three coats of gloss, then miter it & install it. Or use Azek.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Nov 22, 2023

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

They also sell backer rod for larger gabs if you want to caulk. (What I would do)

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Probably too late, but they used tile edge trim in my bathroom for the edge against the ceiling. I also had subway tile that didn't have bullnose pieces.

Something like this (not an endorsement)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TrimMaster-Silver-1-2-in-x-98-1-2-in-Aluminum-L-Shaped-Tile-Edging-Trim-H8703MF98/206449062

The Top G
Jul 19, 2023

by Fluffdaddy
Silicone grout is preferred for the corners anyways, as traditional sanded grout will often crack as the house settles.

You can do a small bit of moulding but it’s a bit of a hassle to install and paint when it’s on the ceiling. Wont there be cabinets to cover it up anyways? I’d just use the sanded silicone grout and call it a day. Stuff some backer rod in the bigger spots and tape off tile and ceiling so the line is straight.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I have a dimmable LED bulb that says it's compatible with the dimmer an electrician put in. However I can hear a light buzzing noise, but only if I'm less than a foot away and it's totally quiet otherwise. This is a pendant, so maybe there always is still a bit of a buzz, but I never hear it otherwise because for other ceiling lights the bulb is farther away? This pendant is over a table so it's only about 5.5 feet off the ground

SuicidalSmurf
Feb 12, 2002


There's a vertical pantry cabinet on one side, and a fridge cover panel on the other, which is also why I'm hesitant to do a molding at the top because the tile stops at some edging that follows the corner of the cabinet (so untiled above the cabinet). I'm going to put up some shelves for open storage, but the bulk of my cabinet real estate is the tall cabinets and an island.

If the gap were consistent I'd just put up some pencil tile, but I will probably end up doing caulk color matched to the grout, just wanted confirmation that wasn't a stupid idea. I like the idea of having a straight line regardless of ceiling height, but I'm having a hard time visualizing how I'd mask it off.

rjmccall
Sep 7, 2007

no worries friend
Fun Shoe
I’m buying a small (~4x6) plastic resin shed for my backyard, and it’s supposed to be anchored to the ground. We have an existing concrete pad (the entire backyard is paved; I don’t know how deep it is), so my current plan is to use 3/8” lag screws into anchors. I’ll probably have to get a new drill bit for this. I haven’t made any purchases yet, though. Anything I should know before I get started? I’m comfortable with tools from woodworking but haven’t really done anything with masonry before.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

rjmccall posted:

I’m buying a small (~4x6) plastic resin shed for my backyard, and it’s supposed to be anchored to the ground. We have an existing concrete pad (the entire backyard is paved; I don’t know how deep it is), so my current plan is to use 3/8” lag screws into anchors. I’ll probably have to get a new drill bit for this. I haven’t made any purchases yet, though. Anything I should know before I get started? I’m comfortable with tools from woodworking but haven’t really done anything with masonry before.

You might want to rent/barrow/buy a SDS drill if you’re doing more than a dozen holes. My 20V Dewalt hammer drill is fine for a few holes but I don’t want use it for a large project. I like these Bosch bits they did good job on concrete and brick; BOSCH IMC500 5-Piece Impact MultiConstruction Drill Bit Set https://a.co/d/hRb3efZ

rjmccall
Sep 7, 2007

no worries friend
Fun Shoe
Apparently I just need four holes. I don’t have a hammer drill, though, just a 20V rotary.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

I've never tried to drill into concrete with just a standard drill. I don't think that's going to be a great experience.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

actionjackson posted:

I have a dimmable LED bulb that says it's compatible with the dimmer an electrician put in. However I can hear a light buzzing noise, but only if I'm less than a foot away and it's totally quiet otherwise. This is a pendant, so maybe there always is still a bit of a buzz, but I never hear it otherwise because for other ceiling lights the bulb is farther away? This pendant is over a table so it's only about 5.5 feet off the ground
Just because the LED is dimmer-compatible doesn’t mean the dimmer is LED-compatible. Yes this is dumb. That may not resolve it, but it’s a thing to check.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

sleepy gary posted:

I've never tried to drill into concrete with just a standard drill. I don't think that's going to be a great experience.

It is awful. Shoring up my collapsed patio cover before being able to replace it I needed to drill 4 holes for the post anchor things. We only had two big honkin corded impacts and spite. We should have rented an SDS rotary hammer drill. Basically made progress by having the drill hit the bottom, pull it out, over and over and over.

We also probably had blunted the bits but let's not get into semantics here.

$100 or whatever in rental will get it done in less time than it takes to drive to the hardware store. Not round trip, not the two round trips to rent-and-return it. Vs an impact where you better have a lot of swearing at the ready.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Anne Whateley posted:

Just because the LED is dimmer-compatible doesn’t mean the dimmer is LED-compatible. Yes this is dumb. That may not resolve it, but it’s a thing to check.

You check it by unscrewing the plastic cover from the dimmer and hope the front of it is embossed with the model number / some specs. Look those up. Or your LED driver sucks.

rjmccall
Sep 7, 2007

no worries friend
Fun Shoe
Okay, so the thread’s considered opinion is that I should not be a cheap idiot and try to do this with a rotary drill even though I only have four small-ish holes to make, and that, while I could maybe make do with a non-SDS hammer drill if I already had one, since I don’t there isn’t really any point in not renting an SDS hammer drill, which is essentially the best tool for the job. Right?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

rjmccall posted:

Okay, so the thread’s considered opinion is that I should not be a cheap idiot and try to do this with a rotary drill even though I only have four small-ish holes to make, and that, while I could maybe make do with a non-SDS hammer drill if I already had one, since I don’t there isn’t really any point in not renting an SDS hammer drill, which is essentially the best tool for the job. Right?

Yes, even a rotary hammer drill that's cheap or a rental can save hours of drilling and wrist pain. I ended up with a factory refurbished bosch bulldog for $120 a couple of years ago but even a cordless ryobi or harbor freight corded will be worth it.

I drilled holes in cinder block with a normal hammer drill and it took a while but in concrete it took forever and my carbide bits changed color due to the heat. Same holes with a rotary hammer drill took a minute or less. There's also other tools available for them like scraper blades or mini chisel tips if you have a small amount of concrete to destroy (eventually a jackhammer becomes the next tool you want to have for those jobs, though).

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp
Yeah. The cheapest ones are like $67 on Amazon, $75 at home depot, $80 at HF. If you can't rent just buy one

Not Wolverine
Jul 1, 2007

Vim Fuego posted:

Yeah. The cheapest ones are like $67 on Amazon, $75 at home depot, $80 at HF. If you can't rent just buy one
I'll second this motion, the cheapest answer might be to buy one from Hazard Fraught and then return it afterwards. This is kinda a slightly morally questionable thing to do, but so long as you're not abusing it and knowingly return a broken tool I personally don't object to it. Drilling 4 holes is more like just a burn in test, if you do release the magic smoke on 4 holes, at least be honest about it being broken when you return it since it's not polite to give the next shopper to get a busted tool.

As for what type of drill to buy/rent, an SDS drill vs a hammer drill is like a Prius vs a Cummins F-350, while technically the Prius/hammer drill can eventually get the job done, you will be laughed off of the construction site for showing up in one. Four 3/8" holes is probably doable with a good rotary, but easily doable with an SDS, let your wallet determine which fate you choose.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

rjmccall posted:

Okay, so the thread’s considered opinion is that I should not be a cheap idiot and try to do this with a rotary drill even though I only have four small-ish holes to make, and that, while I could maybe make do with a non-SDS hammer drill if I already had one, since I don’t there isn’t really any point in not renting an SDS hammer drill, which is essentially the best tool for the job. Right?

I've drilled concrete with a rotary drill lots of times. It's slow, but it can be done.

If you don't anticipate drilling concrete again in the future, save your money and at least try it with a rotary drill.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Anne Whateley posted:

Just because the LED is dimmer-compatible doesn’t mean the dimmer is LED-compatible. Yes this is dumb. That may not resolve it, but it’s a thing to check.

i know, but the dimmer is on the list for the bulb as being compatible (sorry forgot to mention that). I'll try another bulb

the dimmer is a super common one which I've used before for other dimming as well without issue, the

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-...PR-WH/203670402

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Nov 24, 2023

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


We have mice on the ground floor. Admittedly, our cats tag-team all mice, but I'd still rather not have them because they can communicate disease and fleas. I'm trying to block holes, one at a time depending on energy.

This week I was in the utility room and saw this.

The water pipe for the water heater runs straight up from the crawlspace through the floor, with no attempt made to block the hole around it. Do I remember correctly that the right fix is steel wool in the hole, followed by sprayfoaming the top?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Do I remember correctly that the right fix is steel wool in the hole, followed by sprayfoaming the top?

Yeah, steel wool is great for mice proofing holes. If you don't already have spray foam you can splurge on the rodent proof stuff to take the belt and suspenders approach.

The Top G
Jul 19, 2023

by Fluffdaddy

Deteriorata posted:

I've drilled concrete with a rotary drill lots of times. It's slow, but it can be done.

If you don't anticipate drilling concrete again in the future, save your money and at least try it with a rotary drill.

I would totally be in favor of this if the holes were like 3/16” but a 3/8” anchor needs a 1/2” hole drilled to 3”+ …that’s a decent size hole to drill. I’m honestly not sure if your typical cordless hammer drill could drill it, never mind a regular power drill.

OP - hate to say it but you’ll likely need an SDS-plus rotary hammer. Corded Bosch Bulldog is the industry standard and will last a lifetime, try and find a used one. This one looks like a good option and is only $130:

https://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reco...bBoCansQAvD_BwE

I bet you could drill your holes, wipe it down, and sell it for the same price you bought it for. Or keep it - it’ll be good for decades and you’ll never know when you need to drill concrete or do some light chipping/scraping

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Or if you are fortunate enough to have a rental option, rent one.

The code folks who oversaw my garage build waited until the slab had set before inspecting & telling me that I had to have hurricane bolts every 3' (22x24 and 16X16 pads). Would have been nice to have told me that this was an issue IN loving NEW JERSEY before the pour. Even the mason never heard of such bullshit.

ANYWAY

I rented the largest hand-held Hilti I could find, and a couple of $75 bits. Only needed one bit to do 100+ 9/16" holes. Think all told it was under $200; it was the $350 in masonry epoxy adhesive that hurt.

e: gently caress, sorry. We still have Y-By around my parts. They'll rent a 30-lb Wacker out for $55/day, $85 for the weekend.
Sunbelt's encroaching, but they ain't here yet.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Nov 25, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

Or if you are fortunate enough to have a rental option, rent one.

My local rental place just sold to sunbelt and now renting something like that would cost near as much as buying that one off of amazon and you'd have to provide your own bits or buy them from sunbelt at a 50% markup over lowesdepot.

rjmccall
Sep 7, 2007

no worries friend
Fun Shoe

The Top G posted:

I would totally be in favor of this if the holes were like 3/16” but a 3/8” anchor needs a 1/2” hole drilled to 3”+ …that’s a decent size hole to drill. I’m honestly not sure if your typical cordless hammer drill could drill it, never mind a regular power drill.

OP - hate to say it but you’ll likely need an SDS-plus rotary hammer. Corded Bosch Bulldog is the industry standard and will last a lifetime, try and find a used one.

Yeah, my wife is already talking about anchoring other things, so I’m definitely going to buy a tool. Currently, I’m waffling over anchoring techniques — there’s some attractiveness to the idea of only making reparable holes in the concrete back there. As I understand it, my best option there would be something like a concrete screw; sleeve and lag anchors can’t be taken out without ripping out a substantial amount of concrete, right? I don’t think I need to be too worried about rip-out force, the shed’ll be in a corner of a fence that it’s only like two inches taller than at its highest.

I’ve got a week to decide, the shed doesn’t get delivered until next Friday (and can sit for a few days, ofc).

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Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

PainterofCrap posted:

The code folks who oversaw my garage build waited until the slab had set before inspecting & telling me that I had to have hurricane bolts every 3' (22x24 and 16X16 pads)

:owned:

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