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IOwnCalculus posted:Nah it's cool just put this in your mouth To be fair, I thought it was mostly parlor tricks but possibly a tiny bit of real science, now it seems obvious it was all lies. But I still think there could be some benefits to legitimate water softeners.
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# ? Nov 21, 2023 18:02 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 20:53 |
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Shower before and after getting in the pool - literally wet down your hair, then when you get out do the same. Rinse your hair out and your entire body with water. No soap needed. You will feel better after swimming. Also you fell hook line and sinker for the shyster you let in your door. Good job not paying them. With a water softener you can actually use the "one pump of body wash" you see in the commercials, and if you lather your body straight from the bar you're gonna have a bad time. If hardness is causing problems with scale then sure, soften it a bit, but do it from a plumber who can talk maintenance and how to know if it's working well. Not from someone going door to door. Your local consumer confidence report should help you. Or ask some neighbors who have a basic system like Motronic linked how they like it, what changes they had to make (re: soap/slimy feeling) and how much they pay. You can get salt (either sodium or potassium salts) at Costco.
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# ? Nov 21, 2023 18:05 |
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A loofah or washcloth will make a lather from bar soap more readily in softened water and will feel soapy longer IME If the slimy feeling thing happens decrease the softening amount and save your resin life. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Nov 21, 2023 |
# ? Nov 21, 2023 18:43 |
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H110Hawk posted:Shower before and after getting in the pool - literally wet down your hair, then when you get out do the same. Rinse your hair out and your entire body with water. No soap needed. You will feel better after swimming. Thanks for your tips, I didn't know you could adjust the level of softening on a water softener. I will look around and try to find a supply house and/or legitimate plumber if I go with a water softener. I think the biggest thing is I should wait and see if the city's new treatment plant makes the water any better or not, so I've at least got time to save up for a system if I go that route. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Nov 21, 2023 |
# ? Nov 21, 2023 19:15 |
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Not Wolverine posted:So I'm starting to think the scam was really elaborate. At first, I assumed the science might be true just a ridiculously priced product. don’t f w/ soap salesmen unless they can recite Dr. Bronner’s moral ABC
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# ? Nov 21, 2023 19:33 |
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kreeningsons posted:don’t f w/ soap salesmen unless they can recite Dr. Bronner’s moral ABC quote:DR. BRONNER’S
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# ? Nov 21, 2023 19:45 |
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Not Wolverine posted:I think the biggest thing is I should wait and see if the city's new treatment plant makes the water any better or not, so I've at least got time to save up for a system if I go that route. I don't know what they are installing but I imagine it's not going to gently caress with the hardness / minerality, they're doing like coarse filtration, chlorination, and government mind control serum aka fluoridation. You can probably look at the plans. Either way, that scam artist worked - they have told you a solution to a problem you didn't have bev they walked in the door.
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# ? Nov 21, 2023 19:55 |
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My garage is old, detached and drafty. Mostly that's a problem for another day, but chipmunks and such get in and poop on my workbench, and I'd like to start using it. I've patched the gaps where the wall meets the slab, and that helped for a while, but now I'm noticing they're digging in where the slab is cracked. Would something like this be the right product to patch long cracks where frost/water has heaved the slab enough to make it crack? I don't care about leveling the whole thing or anything like that, just sealing it enough to keep vermin out. I'm in Wisconsin, so we get plenty of freezing, and as I said, the garage is unheated.
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# ? Nov 21, 2023 21:34 |
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H110Hawk posted:I don't know what they are installing but I imagine it's not going to gently caress with the hardness / minerality, they're doing like coarse filtration, chlorination, and government mind control serum aka fluoridation. You can probably look at the plans. On the other hand, the mayor told his golf buddies he was going to be very nice to them for a very long time before he awarded them the bid, so maybe the new water plant is yet another scam. I know the old facility did not have any available land nearby to expand. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Nov 21, 2023 |
# ? Nov 21, 2023 21:41 |
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Chipmunks will climb up siding/come down from trees to get in also. I'm not sure patching concrete cracks is what you' need to do, and I'm not really even able to visualize how that would help. Closing off holes in buildings is best done with hardware cloth.
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# ? Nov 21, 2023 21:41 |
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Motronic posted:Chipmunks will climb up siding/come down from trees to get in also. I'm not sure patching concrete cracks is what you' need to do, and I'm not really even able to visualize how that would help. Closing off holes in buildings is best done with hardware cloth. Yeah, I was surprised too, but there is a clear hole, with dirt evidence, showing they've burrowed from the outside to get there. I've found both sides of it and seen chipmunks run through it. I've patched every other route that I could find first, this hole didn't appear until after that.
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# ? Nov 21, 2023 21:48 |
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Grumpwagon posted:My garage is old, detached and drafty. Mostly that's a problem for another day, but chipmunks and such get in and poop on my workbench, and I'd like to start using it. Check with the plumbing thread first. Human feces are going to be so much more work to clean up compared to a chipmunk's
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# ? Nov 21, 2023 21:52 |
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Grumpwagon posted:Yeah, I was surprised too, but there is a clear hole, with dirt evidence, showing they've burrowed from the outside to get there. I've found both sides of it and seen chipmunks run through it. I've patched every other route that I could find first, this hole didn't appear until after that. If they're digging under is this a spot where you can bend some hardware cloth into an L and bury the one side outside the structure (just under an inch or so of dirt) and attach the other side to the structure? Most burrowing/digging animals get super confused and can't figure out to back up and start digging further away.
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# ? Nov 21, 2023 21:53 |
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I just tiled my kitchen with subway tile. I feel like I'm overthinking the poo poo out of the gap at the top, but I'm ready for grout and don't want to make some unrecoverable error. My tile is straight, the kitchen ceiling varies in height, leaving a 3/4" gap at the worst, and 1/4" at the narrowest. I know color match silicone is a thing, but this seems like too big a gap to fill with that? What's typical here? If I do nothing, do I need to mask off the top of the tile before grouting?
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# ? Nov 22, 2023 04:09 |
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Cove molding. Prime, three coats of gloss, then miter it & install it. Or use Azek.
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Nov 22, 2023 |
# ? Nov 22, 2023 05:03 |
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They also sell backer rod for larger gabs if you want to caulk. (What I would do)
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# ? Nov 22, 2023 13:36 |
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Probably too late, but they used tile edge trim in my bathroom for the edge against the ceiling. I also had subway tile that didn't have bullnose pieces. Something like this (not an endorsement) https://www.homedepot.com/p/TrimMaster-Silver-1-2-in-x-98-1-2-in-Aluminum-L-Shaped-Tile-Edging-Trim-H8703MF98/206449062
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# ? Nov 22, 2023 14:15 |
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Silicone grout is preferred for the corners anyways, as traditional sanded grout will often crack as the house settles. You can do a small bit of moulding but it’s a bit of a hassle to install and paint when it’s on the ceiling. Wont there be cabinets to cover it up anyways? I’d just use the sanded silicone grout and call it a day. Stuff some backer rod in the bigger spots and tape off tile and ceiling so the line is straight.
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# ? Nov 22, 2023 19:27 |
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I have a dimmable LED bulb that says it's compatible with the dimmer an electrician put in. However I can hear a light buzzing noise, but only if I'm less than a foot away and it's totally quiet otherwise. This is a pendant, so maybe there always is still a bit of a buzz, but I never hear it otherwise because for other ceiling lights the bulb is farther away? This pendant is over a table so it's only about 5.5 feet off the ground
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# ? Nov 23, 2023 00:34 |
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There's a vertical pantry cabinet on one side, and a fridge cover panel on the other, which is also why I'm hesitant to do a molding at the top because the tile stops at some edging that follows the corner of the cabinet (so untiled above the cabinet). I'm going to put up some shelves for open storage, but the bulk of my cabinet real estate is the tall cabinets and an island. If the gap were consistent I'd just put up some pencil tile, but I will probably end up doing caulk color matched to the grout, just wanted confirmation that wasn't a stupid idea. I like the idea of having a straight line regardless of ceiling height, but I'm having a hard time visualizing how I'd mask it off.
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# ? Nov 23, 2023 01:02 |
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I’m buying a small (~4x6) plastic resin shed for my backyard, and it’s supposed to be anchored to the ground. We have an existing concrete pad (the entire backyard is paved; I don’t know how deep it is), so my current plan is to use 3/8” lag screws into anchors. I’ll probably have to get a new drill bit for this. I haven’t made any purchases yet, though. Anything I should know before I get started? I’m comfortable with tools from woodworking but haven’t really done anything with masonry before.
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 02:04 |
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rjmccall posted:I’m buying a small (~4x6) plastic resin shed for my backyard, and it’s supposed to be anchored to the ground. We have an existing concrete pad (the entire backyard is paved; I don’t know how deep it is), so my current plan is to use 3/8” lag screws into anchors. I’ll probably have to get a new drill bit for this. I haven’t made any purchases yet, though. Anything I should know before I get started? I’m comfortable with tools from woodworking but haven’t really done anything with masonry before. You might want to rent/barrow/buy a SDS drill if you’re doing more than a dozen holes. My 20V Dewalt hammer drill is fine for a few holes but I don’t want use it for a large project. I like these Bosch bits they did good job on concrete and brick; BOSCH IMC500 5-Piece Impact MultiConstruction Drill Bit Set https://a.co/d/hRb3efZ
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 02:57 |
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Apparently I just need four holes. I don’t have a hammer drill, though, just a 20V rotary.
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 04:03 |
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I've never tried to drill into concrete with just a standard drill. I don't think that's going to be a great experience.
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 05:57 |
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actionjackson posted:I have a dimmable LED bulb that says it's compatible with the dimmer an electrician put in. However I can hear a light buzzing noise, but only if I'm less than a foot away and it's totally quiet otherwise. This is a pendant, so maybe there always is still a bit of a buzz, but I never hear it otherwise because for other ceiling lights the bulb is farther away? This pendant is over a table so it's only about 5.5 feet off the ground
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 06:10 |
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sleepy gary posted:I've never tried to drill into concrete with just a standard drill. I don't think that's going to be a great experience. It is awful. Shoring up my collapsed patio cover before being able to replace it I needed to drill 4 holes for the post anchor things. We only had two big honkin corded impacts and spite. We should have rented an SDS rotary hammer drill. Basically made progress by having the drill hit the bottom, pull it out, over and over and over. We also probably had blunted the bits but let's not get into semantics here. $100 or whatever in rental will get it done in less time than it takes to drive to the hardware store. Not round trip, not the two round trips to rent-and-return it. Vs an impact where you better have a lot of swearing at the ready.
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 06:10 |
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Anne Whateley posted:Just because the LED is dimmer-compatible doesn’t mean the dimmer is LED-compatible. Yes this is dumb. That may not resolve it, but it’s a thing to check. You check it by unscrewing the plastic cover from the dimmer and hope the front of it is embossed with the model number / some specs. Look those up. Or your LED driver sucks.
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 06:13 |
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Okay, so the thread’s considered opinion is that I should not be a cheap idiot and try to do this with a rotary drill even though I only have four small-ish holes to make, and that, while I could maybe make do with a non-SDS hammer drill if I already had one, since I don’t there isn’t really any point in not renting an SDS hammer drill, which is essentially the best tool for the job. Right?
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 07:11 |
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rjmccall posted:Okay, so the thread’s considered opinion is that I should not be a cheap idiot and try to do this with a rotary drill even though I only have four small-ish holes to make, and that, while I could maybe make do with a non-SDS hammer drill if I already had one, since I don’t there isn’t really any point in not renting an SDS hammer drill, which is essentially the best tool for the job. Right? Yes, even a rotary hammer drill that's cheap or a rental can save hours of drilling and wrist pain. I ended up with a factory refurbished bosch bulldog for $120 a couple of years ago but even a cordless ryobi or harbor freight corded will be worth it. I drilled holes in cinder block with a normal hammer drill and it took a while but in concrete it took forever and my carbide bits changed color due to the heat. Same holes with a rotary hammer drill took a minute or less. There's also other tools available for them like scraper blades or mini chisel tips if you have a small amount of concrete to destroy (eventually a jackhammer becomes the next tool you want to have for those jobs, though).
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 07:32 |
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Yeah. The cheapest ones are like $67 on Amazon, $75 at home depot, $80 at HF. If you can't rent just buy one
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 07:56 |
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Vim Fuego posted:Yeah. The cheapest ones are like $67 on Amazon, $75 at home depot, $80 at HF. If you can't rent just buy one As for what type of drill to buy/rent, an SDS drill vs a hammer drill is like a Prius vs a Cummins F-350, while technically the Prius/hammer drill can eventually get the job done, you will be laughed off of the construction site for showing up in one. Four 3/8" holes is probably doable with a good rotary, but easily doable with an SDS, let your wallet determine which fate you choose.
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 14:47 |
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rjmccall posted:Okay, so the thread’s considered opinion is that I should not be a cheap idiot and try to do this with a rotary drill even though I only have four small-ish holes to make, and that, while I could maybe make do with a non-SDS hammer drill if I already had one, since I don’t there isn’t really any point in not renting an SDS hammer drill, which is essentially the best tool for the job. Right? I've drilled concrete with a rotary drill lots of times. It's slow, but it can be done. If you don't anticipate drilling concrete again in the future, save your money and at least try it with a rotary drill.
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 18:11 |
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Anne Whateley posted:Just because the LED is dimmer-compatible doesn’t mean the dimmer is LED-compatible. Yes this is dumb. That may not resolve it, but it’s a thing to check. i know, but the dimmer is on the list for the bulb as being compatible (sorry forgot to mention that). I'll try another bulb the dimmer is a super common one which I've used before for other dimming as well without issue, the https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-...PR-WH/203670402 actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Nov 24, 2023 |
# ? Nov 24, 2023 19:41 |
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We have mice on the ground floor. Admittedly, our cats tag-team all mice, but I'd still rather not have them because they can communicate disease and fleas. I'm trying to block holes, one at a time depending on energy. This week I was in the utility room and saw this. The water pipe for the water heater runs straight up from the crawlspace through the floor, with no attempt made to block the hole around it. Do I remember correctly that the right fix is steel wool in the hole, followed by sprayfoaming the top?
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# ? Nov 24, 2023 23:11 |
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Do I remember correctly that the right fix is steel wool in the hole, followed by sprayfoaming the top? Yeah, steel wool is great for mice proofing holes. If you don't already have spray foam you can splurge on the rodent proof stuff to take the belt and suspenders approach.
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# ? Nov 25, 2023 00:02 |
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Deteriorata posted:I've drilled concrete with a rotary drill lots of times. It's slow, but it can be done. I would totally be in favor of this if the holes were like 3/16” but a 3/8” anchor needs a 1/2” hole drilled to 3”+ …that’s a decent size hole to drill. I’m honestly not sure if your typical cordless hammer drill could drill it, never mind a regular power drill. OP - hate to say it but you’ll likely need an SDS-plus rotary hammer. Corded Bosch Bulldog is the industry standard and will last a lifetime, try and find a used one. This one looks like a good option and is only $130: https://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reco...bBoCansQAvD_BwE I bet you could drill your holes, wipe it down, and sell it for the same price you bought it for. Or keep it - it’ll be good for decades and you’ll never know when you need to drill concrete or do some light chipping/scraping
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# ? Nov 25, 2023 14:56 |
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Or if you are fortunate enough to have a rental option, rent one. The code folks who oversaw my garage build waited until the slab had set before inspecting & telling me that I had to have hurricane bolts every 3' (22x24 and 16X16 pads). Would have been nice to have told me that this was an issue IN loving NEW JERSEY before the pour. Even the mason never heard of such bullshit. ANYWAY I rented the largest hand-held Hilti I could find, and a couple of $75 bits. Only needed one bit to do 100+ 9/16" holes. Think all told it was under $200; it was the $350 in masonry epoxy adhesive that hurt. e: gently caress, sorry. We still have Y-By around my parts. They'll rent a 30-lb Wacker out for $55/day, $85 for the weekend. Sunbelt's encroaching, but they ain't here yet. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Nov 25, 2023 |
# ? Nov 25, 2023 15:54 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Or if you are fortunate enough to have a rental option, rent one. My local rental place just sold to sunbelt and now renting something like that would cost near as much as buying that one off of amazon and you'd have to provide your own bits or buy them from sunbelt at a 50% markup over lowesdepot.
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# ? Nov 25, 2023 15:56 |
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The Top G posted:I would totally be in favor of this if the holes were like 3/16” but a 3/8” anchor needs a 1/2” hole drilled to 3”+ …that’s a decent size hole to drill. I’m honestly not sure if your typical cordless hammer drill could drill it, never mind a regular power drill. Yeah, my wife is already talking about anchoring other things, so I’m definitely going to buy a tool. Currently, I’m waffling over anchoring techniques — there’s some attractiveness to the idea of only making reparable holes in the concrete back there. As I understand it, my best option there would be something like a concrete screw; sleeve and lag anchors can’t be taken out without ripping out a substantial amount of concrete, right? I don’t think I need to be too worried about rip-out force, the shed’ll be in a corner of a fence that it’s only like two inches taller than at its highest. I’ve got a week to decide, the shed doesn’t get delivered until next Friday (and can sit for a few days, ofc).
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# ? Nov 25, 2023 19:28 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 20:53 |
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PainterofCrap posted:The code folks who oversaw my garage build waited until the slab had set before inspecting & telling me that I had to have hurricane bolts every 3' (22x24 and 16X16 pads)
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# ? Nov 25, 2023 19:31 |