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Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

Is the Sprite extruder/hotend a worthwhile upgrade for the Ender3 pro / is it even worth throwing any money at? Microcenter has one for $64 and the hotend on my printer is all gunked up.

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cruft
Oct 25, 2007

The handle on the Roomba broke, after 7 years. I found a replacement handle on Thingiverse and it fit right in.

Therefore the $800 I spent last month on the Mk4 and the 12 hours of assembly time was justified.

Thank you for coming to my TED talk.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

cruft posted:

The handle on the Roomba broke, after 7 years. I found a replacement handle on Thingiverse and it fit right in.

Therefore the $800 I spent last month on the Mk4 and the 12 hours of assembly time was justified.

:hmmyes:

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

queeb posted:

Closing in on 15k in revenue so far for the month of November, my actual job before I'd pull in like 3k in a month, so this is seriously insane to me

I gotta find a way to get more value out of all my machines; I use them for work stuff but your success is a regular reminder that they're capable of contributing more if I can figure out my end of things better :v:

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Turns out that the roll of blue PLA I was having odd layer adhesion issues with last night is actually a roll of blue PETG, which explains an awful lot. I swear, I've used a 3D printer before!

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

drat. Mind if I pm ya with dumb questions about starting up a business?

Sure!

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe

Acid Reflux posted:

Turns out that the roll of blue PLA I was having odd layer adhesion issues with last night is actually a roll of blue PETG, which explains an awful lot. I swear, I've used a 3D printer before!

Trivia question: If you have an unlabeled roll of filament is there a reliable way to tell what kind it is?

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

That's a really good question, I've honestly never thought about it. I have exactly six rolls of PETG in the house right now, all the rest is PLA, and it was just a moment of inattentiveness that had me picking up the wrong thing.

Burn some and see how it reacts? Taste test, maybe? ...those probably aren't very good methods.

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

How many types of filament stick together? If you only have PLA or PETG as possible options for the mystery roll, then you could print a small square of PLA, then a square of the mystery filament on top.
If it's PETG it would pop off without much issue.

Outside of that, if you have a very fine scale, different filaments will weigh different amounts. Though it might vary so much from manufacturer to manufacturer/roll to roll that it's hard to notice.
But if this list is accurate: https://bitfab.io/blog/3d-printing-materials-densities/ then density between filament types can vary by 20% or so, though PLA and PETG are very similar. (1.24 vs 1.27g/cm3)

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I wonder if you could do an easy test with the bed based on PLA’s glass transition temp being 60C vs 85C for PETG. Put a weight on a strand of filament and see if it gets soft at 60C?

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Temperature and being easy to snap in half would be a reliable way to distinguish PLA, smell and acetone would reliably distinguish ABS. If it doesn't do any of those things, it's probably PETG.

If you can heat it up to a consistent temperature that would work as well, or set up an extrusion text and weigh the samples extruded at different temperatures.

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

Bad Munki posted:

Anyone have experience with that stuff in a bowden extruder?
All of these have been printed with an Ender3 with bowden. I notice the shifting, the more complex the print the more there is. Must be the filament turning inside the tube when it is moving on the X-axis. I'd avoid gapfill/infill if possible. The less movement the better.

I once had a spool where the filament was twisted already on the spool and even vases had extremely bad shifting, so watch out for that.

v result


Here's 2 highres pics of normal, but complex prints (should be the red/green/blue filament from yousu)
https://i.imgur.com/PiQjqmX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pn7a1GI.jpg

Bad Munki posted:

What filament is this?
YOUSU red/gold/blue, I have no idea where this is available in the world.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0CFLN79W1/
More pictures:



I am also very happy with this dualcolor filament from Eryone.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0BNL2L3X6/


Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

withak posted:

Trivia question: If you have an unlabeled roll of filament is there a reliable way to tell what kind it is?

Burn a bit of it with a lighter and go by smell. PLA smells sweet, PET smells waxy, and ABS smells acrid.

They also each sound different when you shake them on the spool, and they behave differently when bent. But those properties can be affected by fillers, while the smell is always a good indicator.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Tag yourself

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Sagebrush posted:

Burn a bit of it with a lighter and go by smell. PLA smells sweet, PET smells waxy, and ABS smells acrid.

They also each sound different when you shake them on the spool, and they behave differently when bent. But those properties can be affected by fillers, while the smell is always a good indicator.

Humidity can also affect snappiness. PLA is famously snap city when wet, but also ASA surprisingly.

csammis
Aug 26, 2003

Mental Institution
I'm doing some resin printing after taking a year off and am having a problem that I'm having trouble describing.

The part in question is a cylinder with grooves in it, with cam profiles inside the grooves. The grooves are 2mm wide. The entire cylinder is about 30mm in diameter. I'm printing it flat on the build plate (a flex plate) so the grooves are parallel to the build surface. Printing in Siraya Tech Blu in what Lychee Slicer thinks is a good profile, 11s exposure with 100mm/s retraction on normal layers. Ambient temperature in the room is about 30C. The printer is an Elegoo Mars Pro.





The issue is that resin is curing inside those grooves and filling them up. The details of the cams inside the grooves and most of the supports are encased in solid resin. It's not an issue of liquid resin getting stuck that is later getting cured, it's definitely cured before the part even gets washed.

First of all, what do I even call this type of failure? Second, is there anything i can do to prevent it? The resin is transparent so I was thinking that if the problem is light bleeding out around the part of the layer which is supposed to be curing...I have no idea how to approach that. I thought the FEP might be cloudy so I put a new one on yesterday but there has been no change.

Any thoughts?

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

csammis posted:

I'm doing some resin printing after taking a year off and am having a problem that I'm having trouble describing.

The part in question is a cylinder with grooves in it, with cam profiles inside the grooves. The grooves are 2mm wide. The entire cylinder is about 30mm in diameter. I'm printing it flat on the build plate (a flex plate) so the grooves are parallel to the build surface. Printing in Siraya Tech Blu in what Lychee Slicer thinks is a good profile, 11s exposure with 100mm/s retraction on normal layers. Ambient temperature in the room is about 30C. The printer is an Elegoo Mars Pro.





The issue is that resin is curing inside those grooves and filling them up. The details of the cams inside the grooves and most of the supports are encased in solid resin. It's not an issue of liquid resin getting stuck that is later getting cured, it's definitely cured before the part even gets washed.

First of all, what do I even call this type of failure? Second, is there anything i can do to prevent it? The resin is transparent so I was thinking that if the problem is light bleeding out around the part of the layer which is supposed to be curing...I have no idea how to approach that. I thought the FEP might be cloudy so I put a new one on yesterday but there has been no change.

Any thoughts?

2 things, first of all printing flat like that's going to give you some annoying overhangs to work with. Print on an angle

2nd of all, sirayatwch blu is a pain in the rear end to print with and really wants to be running in a heated vat. I used this stuff for a customer recently and it was terrible. Saw exactly what your describing, had a hard time removing supports, and I probably hosed up a few feps trying to make it work.

Light bleed is for sure not going to help, but a lot of it with Blu is a viscosity issue as well

Edit: I just noticed your using sirayatechs times. It's not a bad start but absolutely run a calibration test and sort it out for your specific machine

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Nov 25, 2023

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
That's gotta be the worst orientation to print that part.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Very much agree. I'd turn that 90 degrees, up on its edge, to present the least possible amount of surface area to the FEP. The tradeoff would be having to get some support marks off the working surfaces, but it's a small price in return for a much higher chance of success.

mrbass21
Feb 1, 2009
I just got my Bambu P1S in running and my god. It’s so great! I’ve had nothing but flawless prints! I’m actually excited about printing again instead of waiting to see how a print fails so I can tweak the calibration for the next attempt.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Having not messed with resin, are you expecting that rotating shaft part to be functional?

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

mrbass21 posted:

I just got my Bambu P1S in running and my god. It’s so great! I’ve had nothing but flawless prints! I’m actually excited about printing again instead of waiting to see how a print fails so I can tweak the calibration for the next attempt.
Congrats! They really are game changers. I'm very grateful to have one P1P with two AMSessessss connected, and then another P1P and a P1S each with one AMS. It's very rare to not have at least one of them running at any given time.

Right now I'm printing approximately 37 billion of the various Zou (https://www.patreon.com/zou3d) tiny animals. Every Christmas I try to make something for everyone in my shop, be it 3D printed or laser cut. Last year everyone got a printed flat pack/kit card airplane because we're an aviation maintenance outfit. This year I'm going a bit further and plan to put out a massive container of the little animals for people to choose from. Will probably make about 1000 pieces altogether, which will be enough for everyone in the entire company to grab five or six each. There's absolutely no way I could have done this with my old printers unless I had started about mid-year. With the Bambus, I'm going to have several hundred done by Monday.

(e) - Here There Be Snails (once the lovely purple shells are done)


(ee) - three of my snails have unfortunately broken loose, I probably should have given the plate a much better scrub before I started this job. I also forgot to reconnect the printers to the Bambu Handy app after I nuked my slicers the other day, so I can't currently use the 'skip object' function because I can't connect to the machine while it's running. I think it'll be OK though... the failed ones are still hemmed in by others, so as long as they can't scoot around too far, the mess should be contained to their immediate area while the ones around them keep printing. I hope.

Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Nov 25, 2023

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007


I also had a question and browsed your past posts and couldnt find an answer to it, are you designing these yourself or printing out designs you've bought?

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004



Still some shmootz around the wiggly bits where the little fellas got loose, but the overall job is still still on its way to completion. Crossing my fingers and opening a beer in tribute to the print gods right now.

(e) ...and in the last ten minutes, a few more of the little bastards decided it was time to run free. Dammit. Stopped the print, gonna scrub the plate and start it over before I go to bed. Dammit!

Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Nov 25, 2023

mrbass21
Feb 1, 2009

Acid Reflux posted:



Still some shmootz around the wiggly bits where the little fellas got loose, but the overall job is still still on its way to completion. Crossing my fingers and opening a beer in tribute to the print gods right now.

(e) ...and in the last ten minutes, a few more of the little bastards decided it was time to run free. Dammit. Stopped the print, gonna scrub the plate and start it over before I go to bed. Dammit!

I jinxed you. I tried to start a print on my Ender 3 that failed as a sacrifice to reverse the curse.

DoLittle
Jul 26, 2006


First attempt with nylon by drawing up some clamps and loading a roll of PAHT-CF. First time printing without AMS as well.

I used the X1C drying function (90 C) first and then put to roll in Sunlu S2 at 70 C for the print. Threw a towel on to the printer and got the enclosure temperature up to 54 C. Prints worked great. No issues at all.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Synthbuttrange posted:

I also had a question and browsed your past posts and couldnt find an answer to it, are you designing these yourself or printing out designs you've bought?

Licenced everything, but I paint stuff too for dumb amounts of money people will still pay. I've paid out a ton of money on licences but it definitely pays off, I dropped ~5k on the printable scenery licence.

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

Ignore my dusty rear end desk I'm gonna clean and tidy it soon

focus on my most perfect print yet:




The tail, btw, is actually lockable so you can pose it upright.... except the tail is too dang heavy! I set my infill too high for that lmao

He took over two days to print and he's huge and beautiful and I love my dune striker so much ;;;

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
If you need an extra color and were done with one color from an AMS can you pause, unload, and load a different color in? You'd have to mark both sections the same color in the slicer, but it does allow unload/load mid print, right?

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

mrbass21 posted:

I jinxed you.
You absolutely did, round two didn't go so great either LOL



Turns out that some idiot had the wrong build plate type selected in the slicer, and that matters for how it lays the first layer down. I've had him fired.



ilkhan posted:

If you need an extra color and were done with one color from an AMS can you pause, unload, and load a different color in? You'd have to mark both sections the same color in the slicer, but it does allow unload/load mid print, right?
Yup, and you don't even need to pause the print. As long as that AMS slot isn't actively being used, you can just yank out the old roll and toss a new one in.

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug

BadMedic posted:

Weird issue I'm running into on my Neptune 3:
I replaced the rollers on my Z-axis, and now the gantry is *slightly* out of level with the bed?
I assume I made some minor error while reassembling, but idk what the error would be.

The answer to this was "yes". I had over-tightened the frame, so the Y-axis was out of alignment. I screwed the brackets onto the gantry slightly off center, so with the rollers on the gantry was always off level. And just to round it out, I had botched the Z-screw alignment so that was wildly off base too.
So pro tip: don't ""calibrate"" your printer while sleep deprived, you might just make things worse!

Oh and the counterfeit "CHT" nozzles I got: The 0.4mm one boosted my max flow rate from 6.2mm^3 to... 6.8mm^3 :negative:
I'm sure if I bump the nozzle temps up higher I can boost that a lot but... this explains why the nozzles were so cheap to buy

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

BadMedic posted:

The answer to this was "yes". I had over-tightened the frame, so the Y-axis was out of alignment. I screwed the brackets onto the gantry slightly off center, so with the rollers on the gantry was always off level. And just to round it out, I had botched the Z-screw alignment so that was wildly off base too.
So pro tip: don't ""calibrate"" your printer while sleep deprived, you might just make things worse!

Oh and the counterfeit "CHT" nozzles I got: The 0.4mm one boosted my max flow rate from 6.2mm^3 to... 6.8mm^3 :negative:
I'm sure if I bump the nozzle temps up higher I can boost that a lot but... this explains why the nozzles were so cheap to buy

Sorry, I saw this question while quickly scanning posts on my phone and had intended to reply. Looks like you got it sorted out though! I have a set of cheap 1-2-3 blocks that I use for checking that things are square and faces are aligned (which I got years ago when I set up my first ender 3 pro.) Those are what I used when I tore down this second one that was given to me, and they immediately revealed several things were out of square.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Acid Reflux posted:


Turns out that some idiot had the wrong build plate type selected in the slicer, and that matters for how it lays the first layer down. I've had him fired.


I know that guy!!!

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


I think we all do, lol

mrbass21
Feb 1, 2009

ImplicitAssembler posted:

I know that guy!!!

He also was midnighting a job for me last night and did the same thing. Thinking of seeking legal retribution.

Opioid
Jul 3, 2008

<3 Blood Type ARRRRR
How do you guys organize/store your filaments? I’ve got some manual pump reusable vacuum bags coming from AliExpress but things stack better in their boxes? Just seems bulky. Alternative set up some shelf system. Photo for context of where I’m currently at. Maybe some proper sealed cabinet that’s entirely humidity controlled? I’m in a dry Canadian winter right now and overall dry prairie area so it’s not terrible out here in the heated detached garage.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012


your top shelf is giving me hives

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Opioid posted:

How do you guys organize/store your filaments? I’ve got some manual pump reusable vacuum bags coming from AliExpress but things stack better in their boxes? Just seems bulky. Alternative set up some shelf system. Photo for context of where I’m currently at. Maybe some proper sealed cabinet that’s entirely humidity controlled? I’m in a dry Canadian winter right now and overall dry prairie area so it’s not terrible out here in the heated detached garage.



My closest in my office/printer/game room



All those racks are full now thanks to BF deals lol

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



I buy only one color so I just hero then in the big boxes they come in stacked in my garage

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ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
I've got 2 of these little carts that spools just hang out in. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/vesken-cart-white-00471222/ easy to access, and I usually dry stuff before I print it anyway.

I've got dissicant coming to fit into the AMS when it arrives, so they should stay dry while in there. And enough spools on the way to fill out the carts.

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